New to Spectra Marine

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Hey guys, I am a new guy on this page and have been looking through your posts and projects for a while.. I got into Spectras a few years back and have been restoring one.. still a few months off but working hard to finish. I posted a friends boat on here over the weekend (Pink to Purple Spectra 20) and it has been pretty cool seeing the replys and and getting info from everyone out there.

I wanted to post a few pics that I have on my project.. Here are some of the trailer construction just a few things left and then paint. I will try to get some of the boat. We have popped the cap off the boat replaced the stringers and all bulk heads.. just finishing some final glass work inside and then off to paint in Feb (I hope)

[RiverDave]

I really wish I knew how to weld.. LOL It'd make my life so much easier. :D

did you move the other 2 axles forward? Or did you just add a third onto the back and extend the trailer?

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I did move the front axel forward, I believe 6 to 8 inches, we cut everything off the trailer and put on all new hangers, springs etc. The trailer pulls great and even though it is fairly low at the prop guard it have less drag on driveways than I do with my flat bottom trailer, having that third axel back further is nice for going in and out of driveways.

[RiverDave]

Are you going to do a bow stand and a wench? Or a drawbar kind of setup?

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Bow Stand with a winch, these pictures were shot right after we put the boat back on the trailer to check clearence for fenders and keel, we dropped the boat 4 incehs on the trailer and I was nervous about fit... eventhough we measured 100 times. My dad used to build a lot of trailers and he likes the boats low and tight...

We used 4" square tubing and set the bow stand at an angle, also the wheel/Jack is hidden on the trailer right behind the Bow Stand. A little more work to jack the thing off the truck but it looks pretty good.

I hope to have the trailer painted this January and I will post soem pics of it completed.

[RiverDave]

Bow Stand with a winch, these pictures were shot right after we put the boat back on the trailer to check clearence for fenders and keel, we dropped the boat 4 incehs on the trailer and I was nervous about fit... eventhough we measured 100 times. My dad used to build a lot of trailers and he likes the boats low and tight...

We used 4" square tubing and set the bow stand at an angle, also the wheel/Jack is hidden on the trailer right behind the Bow Stand. A little more work to jack the thing off the truck but it looks pretty good.

I hope to have the trailer painted this January and I will post soem pics of it completed.

Got any pics of it in it's current state?

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I'll look, I am new to the picture tec.. I did take some but with my wife's camera and they are on her computer. I am hoping to get a chance to work on the trailer the end of next week, have a little road trip to the farm planned.

Also just got a call from IMCO and my gas tanks are ready...I should be able to finish all the glass work on the boat this weekend.. I needed the tanks to make the rear mount, so I can fit the floors in as well.

[RiverDave]

I'll look, I am new to the picture tec.. I did take some but with my wife's camera and they are on her computer. I am hoping to get a chance to work on the trailer the end of next week, have a little road trip to the farm planned.

Also just got a call from IMCO and my gas tanks are ready...I should be able to finish all the glass work on the boat this weekend.. I needed the tanks to make the rear mount, so I can fit the floors in as well.

Very cool.. :) Looking forward to watching it come together!

RD

[DeltaSigBoater]

Some pictures of the boat when it was for sale back in 2004? (I think :rolleyes:) at Boulder Boats. I recall the boat having a 455 Olds and being offered for about $3500.

Looking forward to seeing the build. :thumbsup

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Yes, that is the story. I offerd the guy $2,500 in Jan of 06' and he took it, that is how I got into the Spectra. I wasn't ready to buy another project (nor was my wife) but he took what I felt to be a pretty low ball price, once I looked at the boat I knew the gear box (champion) and the velvet drive were in good shape so what the heck, I had space and could just start playing with it here and there.

This thing was very rough, the Olds was frozen up, cap was broke about 3/4 of the way around the deck (the reason for the duct tape on the deck) stringers were broke loose in a few spots and the trailer was a mess, axels were crooked, springs were broke. The trailer was so bad that it took an extra 30 gallons of fuel to DRAG that thing home.. I got a great deal.

I have a BBC for it now, the olds went to a guy in torrance who wanted to go drifting in a Delta 88 ?????. I pulled the engine apart for him so he could transport and found that 1 cylinder had a rust ring around it.... a quick hone and the thing turned over and the rest of it looked like it was brand new... but it was an Olds. Thank you for sharing the pictures, that was funny to see them on here

[RiverDave]

Are you planning on adding cav plates? If so are you going to recess them into the bottom? Or off the back of the transom?

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I am running Cav plates and we are recessing the bottom.

With the new stringers in, I had three layers of glass on the old floor and I built up another 3 layers 9" off the transon to assure strength for the recess.. a bit over kill up what the heck. As soon as I get the boat over to B&K Boat Repair in Bellflower (that is where the Pink to Purple Spectra was done as well, Ken Meyers is like an Uncle to me) we will flip the thing over recess for the plates and finish the bottom off. The boat is just a bit to big to flip in my garage.. not enough room to run if I need to.

I found a great set of the Nicson ball & socket type turnbuckles, I believe this is what Spectra rigged the v-drives with that had plates. I am running a manual over ride set up, I like the look of two pedals up front, comes from my flatbottom lineage.

[RiverDave]

I'm curious as to how they are going to cut the recess after the fact.. Router? What is the process?

Can you take pics of that when they do it?

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

we will use a router..and yes I will take some pictures. They just finished a 76 Howard, (Spectra splash) converted from out drive to V-drive. I think they have some pictures...This was my brothers boat and he sold to another friend, came out beautiful, you cannot tell that the boat was an out drive. Original gel coat and stripes all matched up like it came out of the mold that way. Mark Strunk at B&K is a master at matching colors, his repairs are spotless and you can not tell where he starts or ends the new to the old.

[RiverDave]

I've never heard of B&K before..

Got a contact # for them?

RD

[Just Electric]

i believe b&k are located in bellflower at 14748 bellflower bvd number is 562 925 7111

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

B&K has been around since the mid 50's. Small shop just two guys. Ken Meyers the "K" in B&K has run the shop since the beginning and Mark Strunk has been there since the mid 80's. They do all types of fiber glass, wood repairs and custom paint.

The Pink Spectra I posted out of Anaheim Hills was done there, they also did "Mr Magoo" cracker box racer, You may have seen a Red Cole named "Rushin Roulette" that boat was destroyed when it came in, was missing 3/4 of the Port side. Right now Mark is doing a 21 RC Schiada, cap has been pulled, new stringers and a ton of mahogany have been put into this boat. I will ask if the owner will OK some pics being posted. If you have ever been in the new Hallett show room, over in the corner is a yellow wood decker that Kenny painted and finished the deck off, the deck was put on by harlin in Fallbrook, CA.

B&K is Located in Bellflower CA, 562-925-7111

[RiverDave]

B&K has been around since the mid 50's. Small shop just two guys. Ken Meyers the "K" in B&K has run the shop since the beginning and Mark Strunk has been there since the mid 80's. They do all types of fiber glass, wood repairs and custom paint.

The Pink Spectra I posted out of Anaheim Hills was done there, they also did "Mr Magoo" cracker box racer, You may have seen a Red Cole named "Rushin Roulette" that boat was destroyed when it came in, was missing 3/4 of the Port side. Right now Mark is doing a 21 RC Schiada, cap has been pulled, new stringers and a ton of mahogany have been put into this boat. I will ask if the owner will OK some pics being posted. If you have ever been in the new Hallett show room, over in the corner is a yellow wood decker that Kenny painted and finished the deck off, the deck was put on by harlin in Fallbrook, CA.

B&K is Located in Bellflower CA, 562-925-7111


Thanks! I'll give him a call!

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Here are some pictures of popping the cap off and prepping the boat for the new main stringers. The two outside stringers were in great shape but the main ones were shot. In one of the pics you can see that the factory did not glass the stringers to the bottom of the boat, they just put a layup over the top and if the stringers were not shaped perfect they would fill any voids with resin...and a lot of it. The new stringers have 3 layers of glass under them, about 2" wide and then we set the stringers on the strips set up some jigs to hold everything straight and laminated them to the bottom of the boat, once these kicked we finished up with two layers of matt and 1 cloth from outside stringer to outside stringer.

Attachments are coming.... system is telling me that I am missing a security token, will try again later

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Resized the pictures.. told you I was new to this stuff.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Here are some pictures of getting the top deck prepped to go back on. We filled all holes (gas, vent, bimini, cleat) fixed some broken structure and gel coated the entire underside prior to glassing back together . The worst part of this whole thing was getting the contact glue off from where the brown shag carpet was under the deck. I ended up using MAP gas and a 4" puddy knife to melt and scrape it off, worked well and I did not catch anything on fire or melt anything!! Also we were talking about B&K boat repair, I attached two pics of my Dad's 63' Spitfire (he has had this since 65' sold his cracker box to get a family boat) with a 401 Nail Head, this boat was completly restored new stringes and new deck back in the late 90's by B&K.. Kenny also skinned the floors and front bulkhead in Mahogany to match the deck.

[spectra81]

man that's alot of work your doing,looks good! If you need any measurements for strut location or anything ,i have the 81 listed in the next thead and i fortunatly have it set-up just right.Its the best riding cruiser i have ridden in,good look on the project,like to see it when its done MERRY X-MAS GREG

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Thanks Greg, did you change struts? I am thinking about tossing the old strut and going with a longer strut and taking some angle out of it. Any advise you have would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Wheeler]

Nice job on the rebuild! I actually started itching after looking at your pictures! :eek:

[Just Electric]

nice job this thing should turn out to be a nice cruiser when you get done building it

[78 Continental]

Sweet Flat Bottom

[RiverDave]

Thanks Greg, did you change struts? I am thinking about tossing the old strut and going with a longer strut and taking some angle out of it. Any advise you have would be appreciated.

Thanks

I'd consider calling the guys over at Precision marine and machine as well. They are rigging DCM's twin turbo v-drive.. It's a howard custom cruiser hull (DCM bought the molds) which as you know is a Spectra. That boat should be finished up in the next couple months, and you could get some real world #'s per HP based on their setup.

I also know a couple people with some fast Spectras I could call if your interested.

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

RD, Thank you for the information.. I would like any info if you could provide for me. Initial power will be 450 to 500 hp, fairly mild BBC, but down the road I am looking for more HP. I am not looking to be the fastest boat around but would like to get down the river. I am also looking for a Morse / teleflex steering helm that has a dual cable. Looking for the cables to run both Port and Starbord, I am only finding single cables or dual that run on the same side. I want to use a tiller are rather than a quadrant, so I need the cable type helm. I like the Calgo steering but a bit out of my price range right now.

Thanks

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Finished the tank bulk heads and am almost ready to Gel coat the inside. Still need to build the middle bulk head just in front of the v-drive, but it is really nice having it out to work under the deck. Hopefully will get the rest of teh sanding done this coming weekend and put a final resin coat down and then it will be ready for gel coat. I posted some pics of additional bracing I added under teh deck, in back of the main bulk head and in front of it. I have seen several mid 70's Spectras with sagging decks and cracked caps from the deck flexing too much, now I can jump on the deck and there is no issue, I am 6'4" and 320lbs..

[RiverDave]

Well I think it's safe to say you won the free RDP t-shirt of the week. ;) :D

PM me your address, and I'll get it out to you.

RD

[Just Electric]

Well I think it's safe to say you won the free RDP t-shirt of the week. ;) :D

PM me your address, and I'll get it out to you.

RD
damn you aint lying about that he seems to know what hes doin that boat is coming out nice

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Thanks guys,

I am TEC challenged so can you tell me what "PM" is and how to do it, I would wear a RD T-shirt with pride and I promise I wont get resin on it..Hopefuly

[RiverDave]

Thanks guys,

I am TEC challenged so can you tell me what "PM" is and how to do it, I would wear a RD T-shirt with pride and I promise I wont get resin on it..Hopefuly

Just click where it says "RiverDave" above my little picture on the left hand side. A drop down menu will come up, and click on "send private message"

RD

[squirtnmyload]

wow. bitchen thread! i can't wait for the day that i have the room to do something like this. keep us updated on the progress! :beer :)

[RiverDave]

74Spectra20-Vdrive, I apollogzie I've gotten a million PM's lately from my dad passing and while I was cleaning out my PM box I accidentally deleted your address. Can you please PM me your address again so I can get your shirt out to you?

RD

[Flat Broke]

74 Spectra,

The work your doing/have done is freaking awesome. There are a couple of us who live in the LBC and love older glass. I keep my project at my Dad's house in Torrance, but would love to come by and check out your 20 sometime.

I'm restoing a 75 20, but mine is upside down (still) but the wheels have slowly started turning and the 3rd revision of the bottom glass work is being done so that I'll be able to spray it pretty soon.

Chris

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Flat Broke, I would like to talk with you guys, I sent you a PM with my cell.. call me, we started grinding on the cap last weekend and are working this Saturday AM again on it.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

we capped the boat on Saturday, first time I have done this.. My friend Bob is in the pictures he did most of the work.. except for sanding now. I had been debating on putting a rub rail on or not so we decided to cap the thing just in case.
Next we are taking the top deck (just where the non skid was) down to the glass and we will lay up 1 layer of mat and cloth. There are a few cracks in the gel coat that stayed after I sanded off the non skid so to prevent these from coming back through the new paint we are opting to lay up some more structure.. We decided to cap it first that way when we lay up the top deck we will reinforce the cap again and give a bit more material to shape.

[SPECTRABRENT]

Any updates on this boat?

Brent

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Hey guys, I was hoping to have this over to B&K in Bellflower by Feb of this year but I have slowed down considerably.. I have rough blocked the cap and just need to get a molding sample so we can shape the cap to match the molding. I Have the transom blocked out and all the old holes and exhaust filled in. There are just a few low spots but it looks pretty good for now. I am still debating on taking the top deck down and reglassing (non skid area), even after blocking the cap there are still a few cracks, you can't feel them but I have been told that they may come back and transfer through the new paint. The entire boat will be gel coated againg and then we will lay color and stripes over it.

I want to rig the entire boat prior to paint and I did a rough set up to get the exgaust holes and engine height but I want to drill all holes and mount everything and then go to paint. So this is probably pushing me back to summer and paint next fall... lots going on and trying to keep the Spectra off teh back burner.

[RiverDave]

This by far and away one of the best threads on any of the boating message boards that I've ever been on!!

RD

[plaster dave]

any updates?

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I finished shapping the cap, came out really nice. We ground all the gel coat and some glass off around where the non skid used to be and I am just putting off the next lay up. We will lay up probably two layers of mat and 1 cloth around the entire boat to assure that we get rid of and prevent any cracks from transfering back throught the new paint. I had some minor cracks around the deck and we just decided that we have gone thi far why not just make everything new so out came the grinder. Will look great once we lay up and then a ton of blocking to get the shape right.
I will be finishing the trailer next week up in Visalia and if all goes well I will be bringing it home. I need to set the boat back on teh trailer to double check a few things, so when I get to that point I will snap a few pictures and share where we are. Thanks for the interest it keeps me excited about the project, now if my bank account could match my excitment we might just knock this baby out by close of 09'

[RiverDave]

So will you be applying "new" non skid to the deck? Or just leaving it smooth?

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Here are a few pictures of what we have been doing. We ground the non skid and shapped the cap, non skid will not go back on. The trailer project has been a lot of fun with my dad, we work pretty slow but have a great time together. One of the things I didn't like about the original trailer was that the inside channel was open, so we shaped some brackets and had some flat stock sheered and created a smooth center, we are hiding all the wires and brake lines behind the panels. The entire trailer will be covered with carpet panels and the wheel jack is hidden behind the bow stop. My Dad and I spend more time B.S.ing but we are having fun. Dad used to make trailers for Bill Gaylord's flat bottoms and a lot of one offs for friends and others under the C&C MFG logo, there are still a few running around. I attached some pics of getting all the wood set and ready for carpet. We then sand blasted the trailer, sealed with an epoxy sealy and shot with a black enamel. I am heading back up north on the 4th to finish the thing, I will post some pictures when I get back.

[RiverDave]

Jumpin Jesus!!

RD

[SPECTRALEN]

I am interested in how you are hideing your wheel jack. Do you have some detailed pics of that part of your fabrication?
Boat and Trailer are looking awesome!!!

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Len, the jack is right behind the bow stop, we started out trying to have it completly under the channel but it just would not work with out using a very small jack. We ended up with about 3/4 of the jack down inside of teh channel and I made a small box that will be carpeted like the restof the trailer that hides everything when the jack is up. The jack is on a pivot mounted to two spindles attached to the channel, we turned the spindles to fit inside a piece of iron pipe and also put some zerks to keep from freezing up, we hope. We welded flanges to the pipe and are using some exhaust brackets to hold the jack. We welded a bead arond teh jack to keep the brackets from slideing. We did a lot of cutting to the jack, I wanted a HD jack but could not find one that would fit in the hole, so we bought a big one and made it fit, we had to cut the handle down as well to swing under the bow. It works great and lifts easy even with a shorter handle. I will be finishing next weeknd (I hope) so I can show completed pictures, but here is the only picture I have of the jack. We also are using the compartment for the quick connects for lights and brake lines for the removable tongue.

[Schi-502]

Nice job! Great job on the picture taking and posting. I feel like I'm right there with you. Except for the itching, of course. And then to see you are doing the boat in a residential neighborhood. Boy you have some great neighbors!!!

[RiverDave]

This thing is really coming out nicely.. :)

RD

[SPECTRALEN]

Now I see what your talking about. I'd love to hide mine too but I'm already locked into having a narrow spare tire that I'm rigging to hide under the diamond plate aluminum floor i'm building. I'm trying to find the right space saver spare or a front runner from a drag car. No more than 4 inches in width.
Keep the project pics coming. They are keeping me motivated.

[RiverDave]

Spectralen, you can put a full size spare under the keel of the boat a little further back in between the two cross members.. That is how they do it on the newer boats.

My Schiada has a "slide out" rack that the tire mounts too. Stacy's old trailer had a hinged mechanism that would drop down and you coule pull the tire off of it. Between the 2 the Spectra trailer was a lot easier to use then my schiada trailer.

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Now I see what your talking about. I'd love to hide mine too but I'm already locked into having a narrow spare tire that I'm rigging to hide under the diamond plate aluminum floor i'm building. I'm trying to find the right space saver spare or a front runner from a drag car. No more than 4 inches in width.
Keep the project pics coming. They are keeping me motivated.

The best thing about the original spectra trailers (I forgt the name) is that they ran 4 inch channel straight down the middle and it left a lot of room to fabricate stuff. Looking at your trailer with the piece of 4 inch box right behind your bow stop eliminates doing what I did, but I know there is a way.. When I see my dad this weekend I will show him the picture and get his mind working, he is great with things like this. When we started I had a totaly different removable hitch and bow stop in mind but with a lot of drawing (soap stone on the welding bench) we came up with what we have and I feel that it looks real clean. Theonly draw back being that the dam tonge weighs 60 pounds.
On your spare tire, did you ever consider not running one? Rig up a bracket under the trailer and if you go flat jack up the axel and chain the thing up, throw the flat tire on the truck and keep moving. I run my flat bottom trailer like this and for the Spectra we drilled a hole through the channel above each center axel, shove a bolt through and sling a chain and off we go. The only issue I see is that the day cruiser is a lot heavier and with a tandom axel you might be pushing a bit with just one wheel, but just a thought. I am not worried with mine since we went with triple axels.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Nice job! Great job on the picture taking and posting. I feel like I'm right there with you. Except for the itching, of course. And then to see you are doing the boat in a residential neighborhood. Boy you have some great neighbors!!!

WOW, compliments from another Schiada guy.. I feel pretty good. You know the Schiada was my first choice, I just couldn't find one in my price range (cheap)

I do have great neighbors, but I also try to do all the grinding in my garage and keep the noise down at night. I vacum up a lot and wash down top keep the dust under control. We did the top deck outside because I had my flatbottom in the garage as well and I didn't want all that dang dust all over it, even with a cover and tarps it seems to get up inside. If you would like I can send you some grinding dust so you can get the itchy part of the project as well... Thanks for the good words it helps me keep going.

[SPECTRALEN]

Just looking at the tongue of your trailer, Is that a hydraulic coupler rigged for electric brakes, or electric over hydraulic? I'm doing mine also as a conversion to electric.
And if yours is electric, are you doing a battery back up?

[RiverDave]

Why would you want electric brakes?

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Just looking at the tongue of your trailer, Is that a hydraulic coupler rigged for electric brakes, or electric over hydraulic? I'm doing mine also as a conversion to electric.
And if yours is electric, are you doing a battery back up?

I am using a Hydraulic suge brake the only electric is a solinoid hooked to back up lights so I don't have to block the surge unit to backup.. The coupler you see is a quick connect for the hydraulic line.

[SPECTRALEN]

I can not stand the loose feeling of the tongue with hydraulic system. Always jerking back and forth when starting and stopping. Also, because I'm not useing the boat all the time, the brake fluid gets contaminated with water. Hydraulics have too much stuff going on with springs and shocks and master cylinders. Electric is much more simple and smooth.

[RiverDave]

I can not stand the loose feeling of the tongue with hydraulic system. Always jerking back and forth when starting and stopping. Also, because I'm not useing the boat all the time, the brake fluid gets contaminated with water. Hydraulics have too much stuff going on with springs and shocks and master cylinders. Electric is much more simple and smooth.

If the trailer is working right you should hardly feel a thing?

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I can not stand the loose feeling of the tongue with hydraulic system. Always jerking back and forth when starting and stopping. Also, because I'm not useing the boat all the time, the brake fluid gets contaminated with water. Hydraulics have too much stuff going on with springs and shocks and master cylinders. Electric is much more simple and smooth.
The new UFP (I think that is the right name) systems are great most all new trailers have these tongues and you can buy them on-line or through a trailer supply, either bolt on or weld on. Mine was a weld on and we had no issues fabricating to it, very strong. They have virtualy no slop in the tongue unless you are into launching your tow vehicle off the line,the systems are sealed well, use disks and eliminate springs, elecrtric solonoids to eliminate backup issues... Electric is nice but the new hydraulics do not have the same issues as the old systems, I would look into them again.

[SPECTRALEN]

If you look at the picture I posted on the previous page, you can see that I have already welded on a UFP coupler for electric and also a PIVOT HITCH, so now when I park this thing, the bow is the furthest point forward, and now, hopefully,this will help eliminate the chances of walking my shin into that UFP.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

This trailer has become the never ending project... I didn't get all the time I needed this past weekend, but what the heck the boat is still a long ways away from being done. We just have some little stuff to do but it's coming together like we wanted. I was about 2" short on the carpet so I have 1 section that still needs to be done and I will redo 2 of the center sections. We we laying out everything to go in the same direction since this carpet changes colors from front to back, and we just didn't have the carpet to flip the panels around. They are about 2 to 3 inches wider at one end and I wanted the bunks done in one piece of carpet rather than piecing them at that took width I needed...

My panels in the center of the trailer worked great and all wires are tucked in and hid, all the wire is shielded and we spliced the runninig lights or side markers into the main lines and then wrapped and sealed with silicone to try and prevent any water on teh electrical connections. I did this back in 95' on my flattbom trailer and haven't had any issues since.

I will eventually post completed trailer pictures...

[RiverDave]

That thing is SIIIICCCKKK!!! :) Nice touch having the carpet all go the same direction.. LOL Little stuff like that drives me up the wall too.

Does this trailer have 6 tail lights across the back?

RD

[SPECTRALEN]

Dude, Stop it already, Your killing me. That thing is looking way too nice.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

That thing is SIIIICCCKKK!!! :) Nice touch having the carpet all go the same direction.. LOL Little stuff like that drives me up the wall too.

Does this trailer have 6 tail lights across the back?

RD

Thanks Dave, my Dad has the patience of a saint when it comes to details on his projects and I am trying to gain some patience as well. There are 6 lights, I started out wanting to run the old Cougar lights that started inside and worked their way to the outside of the unit. My Dad did a trailer like that in the early 70's but I just got lazy and went for the good old truck light.

[RiverDave]

Never heard or seen a cougar light before?? What is it?

(Unless by cougar light your referring to the blue light down at K-mart.. that'll drag some cougars in quick)

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Cougar the Car not the older gal cruising for young boys. The late 60's Mercuray Cougar had tail lights that blinked in sequence starting from the inside and moved across to the outside, I believe there were 5 or 6 individual lights in one housing.

[RiverDave]

Cougar the Car not the older gal cruising for young boys. The late 60's Mercuray Cougar had tail lights that blinked in sequence starting from the inside and moved across to the outside, I believe there were 5 or 6 individual lights in one housing.

Ahhhh... now I get it.

RD

[SPECTRABRENT]

Any updates?

BRent

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Any updates?

BRent

NO updates, have been out of town with work and have not been able to get up North and finish the trailer, I am trying for the first weekend in June.

I did make a decision on hinges for my hatch, I just picked up some aluminum scissor hinges from Eddie Marine, should work great with a single ram to open the hatch and still give access to the rear of the engine to access water pump w/o having to climb over the engine.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Well I finally finished the trailer (almost, still have to carpet 1 panel and paint the box that covers the wheel.) Got the boat on and checked everything, good fit just a little adjujstment on my fender pads. We are going to glass the top deck this weekend so if anyone wants to help block sand call me, I will provide beverage of choice and pizza:D

[RiverDave]

Good god that came out sweet! I like the wheels as well! Simple, classic, and bitchen. Where'd ya get the bullet center caps? Those come with the wheels?

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Thanks Dave, we were going for a classic look... The wheels are just steel 15x7's that I had made by Colling wheel in Bellflower, he has been there for ever, I went there as a kid and the place had been there forever. They started out as a 40 Ford style wheel but I had to reverse them to get the offset I needed in order to get the boat as low as I could, they are pretty deep and it is a bummer getting the caps on and off. The caps came from Hub Cap Mike in Orange CA. Seeing this done puts a fire in my belly to get the rest of the dang thing finished.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Finished glassing the top deck today, came out great. Once I get this kncoked down next week we will resin coat in and start blocking for final shape.

[old man on the lake]

I am rebunking my trailer.The trailer I have is all wrong for the bottom.
I always thought the inside bunks should be under the stringers.The stringers are 12" off the keel.(24").It looks like your inside bunks are further out than that.Just curios.

[RiverDave]

Why did you have to glass the top deck? I figured you'd just sand the non skid away and gel over it?

RD

[SPECTRABRENT]

Why did you have to glass the top deck? I figured you'd just sand the non skid away and gel over it?

RD

DAve,

My Spectra 24 deck/non skid needed to be gound out and then reglassed
so the cracks will not come back.

BRent

[SPECTRABRENT]

Finished glassing the top deck today, came out great. Once I get this kncoked down next week we will resin coat in and start blocking for final shape.

74,

Are you going to redo the Pacalone/wood grain to original?

Brent

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I am rebunking my trailer.The trailer I have is all wrong for the bottom.
I always thought the inside bunks should be under the stringers.The stringers are 12" off the keel.(24").It looks like your inside bunks are further out than that.Just curios.

I left the bunk pads where they were, I just cut them down 4 inches and added two up-rights to the center and extended the bunks out under the bow more rather than having the keel rest on a pad. I wanted to run 2x6 bunks but with the lap starke location I was stuck with leaving everything alone. If you have the ability to put the pads under the stringers that would be a benefit.

[old man on the lake]

I left the bunk pads where they were, I just cut them down 4 inches and added two up-rights to the center and extended the bunks out under the bow more rather than having the keel rest on a pad. I wanted to run 2x6 bunks but with the lap starke location I was stuck with leaving everything alone. If you have the ability to put the pads under the stringers that would be a benefit.

After close inspection it appears the inner strakes are right below the stringers.I guess I could put shorties aft of the strakes but that is chicken $%#@ too. Oh well so much for being precise.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

74,

Are you going to redo the Pacalone/wood grain to original?

Brent

So that is what Pacalone is "Wood Grain"... I wanted to keep the wood grain but there are too many bad spots in it, the rear corners are gone and there is a big crack in or was a big crack in the top deck. Depending on colors we may try to keep some of it.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Why did you have to glass the top deck? I figured you'd just sand the non skid away and gel over it?

RD

I was really hoping I could get away with that but... there were small fractures around the bow when we capped it I blocked the heck out of it and the cracks just got longer, I couldn't feel them but was told that they would eventually transfer back through. by reglassing we seal everything back up. We ground off all the way to the glass to get rid of any waves in the glass. My friend did this same process to his spectra and the top deck is beautiful and stout.

[SPECTRABRENT]

So that is what Pacalone is "Wood Grain"... I wanted to keep the wood grain but there are too many bad spots in it, the rear corners are gone and there is a big crack in or was a big crack in the top deck. Depending on colors we may try to keep some of it.

When Joes Tooling went out of business, I bought his roll. I will be regelling both of my Spectra 20's.

Joe regelled my Spectra 24, I had him do the woodgrain, it came out like the factory did it.

Brent

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Well, I finished blocking the entire top deck and I can say that I am done sanding until we flip the thing over and I have to do the bottom, but I am doing that an my uncles shop. once we get the bottom dialed in we will finish it complete with final color then flip it back over and block the top deck on more time and put it in the booth!!!

I am working on the engine cover and rear seat, I am ready to assemble the cover,but it may have to wait we are getting ready to go to the river next week and I have a little work to do on my Sanger. I will be adding some bracing around the tunnel ram but not until I set the motor in place, then I can fit and make sure it is what I want. My plan is to rig the boat completly by September and then take it apart send part to polish and go to paint, I do not want to be fabricating parts once I have the boat painted, I just want to roll it home and put it back together.

[alohajeff]

Can you give a brief rundown of the engine cover you are building? I've ditched the jump seat / hatch setup on my 24XS and have been looking for a good cover design. I've been trying to get some sort of idea as to gap size I need to leave to allow room for the upholstery.

Thanks!

[djhartley2003]

This is incredible to watch. The boat and trailer are coming out just awesome and you are one talented individual. I am looking forward to seeing your color choices and seeing the finished product. Thanks for posting all the pictures and keeping us updated. It actually looks like you have 2 projects right now. The first being the actual build and the second is documenting it. Keep the updates coming. Looking forward to seeing the next step.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

This is incredible to watch. The boat and trailer are coming out just awesome and you are one talented individual. I am looking forward to seeing your color choices and seeing the finished product. Thanks for posting all the pictures and keeping us updated. It actually looks like you have 2 projects right now. The first being the actual build and the second is documenting it. Keep the updates coming. Looking forward to seeing the next step.

Dj, Thanks for the kind words, I have never been on the web before and this is really fun, it's nice to see other people involved in the same sport or lifestyle. As far as the talented individual I have an awsome Dad who has helped a ton on the trailer and great friends that have a lot of experience in the fiberglass industry... I just do everything 3xs slower and twice as many times to fix my screw ups... but what the heck it has been a lot of fun.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Can you give a brief rundown of the engine cover you are building? I've ditched the jump seat / hatch setup on my 24XS and have been looking for a good cover design. I've been trying to get some sort of idea as to gap size I need to leave to allow room for the upholstery.

Thanks!
Jeff, I am copying a friends hatch, (I attached the pictures of Bob's spectra20) or at least the shape. I wanted to keep this thing light while still staying strong so I am using Poplar and then will stain and seal it. The 4 center supports are mortised into the front and back and I used a "SLURRY" (fiberglass grinding dust mixed with resin, this stuff is strong) as a glue then used Stainless screws to hold everything. The top of the cover will be the same height as the highest point on the deck, I have watched Bob drive by and then another 20 go by and Bobs boat looks 2' longer, by taking the hatch up to the same height I believe your eye catches the boat differently, may sound funny but I had other people look at the same thing and they swore Bob's boat was not the same as the other 20...???

I am using Eddie Marine Scissor hinges and I am still deciding on a ram or just some hydraulic shocks like on truck lids, I want the least amount of stuff under the hatch, just my prefrence.

For the gaps I used 3/8 plywood and cut strips and screwed them to the inside of the combing rails, I am redoing the whole boat you may want to fasten them another way:D With the angels on the boats when you are all done you will have between 3/8 and 1/2 inch of gap and that will be plenty for upholstry, if you know who is going to do your stuff, you may want to ask them their prefrence. I used some 1/8 inch plywood and made templates and then just started cutting and fitting. Use a lot of clamps and check your gaps to keep them even across the back and also if you are using the hatch as the head of the rear seats make sure you keep that straight. I clamped a 2x2 across the front to keep any bow out.

[alohajeff]

Awesome! Thanks for the information.

I've been told by the lil' lady that she wants a comfortable place to lay out and that the bow doesn't count. On my 24XS the boat looks big enough as is. I'm going to try to keep the hatch as low and flat as possible to create the largest "laying" area I can. With my own setup the IMCO PowerFlow PLUS risers come up almost level with the rear portion of the deck. I dropped a relatively straight edge across it and I think I can keep it all tucked in. Your hatch design and the picture you posted have me thinking though... that shape is MUCH better to look at. Might be better to beg for forgiveness on this one and just build it.

Thanks again!

Aloha

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I finished as much as I can on the engine cover until I get the engine in the boat so I can get my final boards set in and measure for the carb opening.

[RiverDave]

you are a craftsmen no doubt!! Are those eddie marine hinges?

RD

[steveo143]

Great thread and great work, thank you for your time.

[djhartley2003]

Dj, Thanks for the kind words, I have never been on the web before and this is really fun, it's nice to see other people involved in the same sport or lifestyle. As far as the talented individual I have an awsome Dad who has helped a ton on the trailer and great friends that have a lot of experience in the fiberglass industry... I just do everything 3xs slower and twice as many times to fix my screw ups... but what the heck it has been a lot of fun.

My dad is the same way. I grew up with my dad owning a welding and tube bending shop. We used to make all the sand rail frames for Johny's Speed and Chrome. I learned to weld at 12 and after that dad treated me like one of the guys in the shop. I learned a lot from him and I am still learning. It is great to have some one like that in your corner. Keep up the good work and keep us posted on your progress. I think I can speak for a lot of the people keeping up with your build when I say that we are really enjoying it.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

My dad is the same way. I grew up with my dad owning a welding and tube bending shop. We used to make all the sand rail frames for Johny's Speed and Chrome. I learned to weld at 12 and after that dad treated me like one of the guys in the shop. I learned a lot from him and I am still learning. It is great to have some one like that in your corner. Keep up the good work and keep us posted on your progress. I think I can speak for a lot of the people keeping up with your build when I say that we are really enjoying it.

I remember Johnny's speed and chrome on Beach blvd in Buena Park... My first car was a bug and at 13 I used to ask my Dad to take me to Johnnys so I could look at stuff... If I remember right they used to have buggy frames hanging from the ceiling, that was a great store and shop.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

you are a craftsmen no doubt!! Are those eddie marine hinges?

RD Yes they are Eddie Hinges, I was almost going to get the same hinge that they mount with shocks all in one set up... but I went the less exspensive route and I think these will work great for this project. I will use some 3/16 or 1/4 in aluminum and screw it into the rear bottom corners of the hatch and then bolt the hinge to the aluminum. I will have about 4" of space between the top of teh cover and the plate so I can get my hand in there to bolt rather than screw into the wood.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Well it's been almost a month but I actually got a few things done this week. I got most of my patterns for my mounts made, I will get as much rigging mocked up as I can. Then when I get all the paterns made out of aluminum I will bolt the entire boat together and get all holes drilled so I don't have to do this once everything is painted.
I need to move the engine back about 2 inches and figure out some spacing issues with the tunnel ram. I need 3 inches of height to get the scoop where I want it above the cover. The top I have on teh tunnel ram is short only 3 inches, I am debating about using a 2" carb spacer and making an aluminun base plate for the scoop. Does anyone no about carb spacers and Tunnel rams? I am assuming this would be the same as a taller top to the ram. I went to Vet Stadium swap meet today to see a guy who has hundreds of manifolds and is very informative but he wasn't there, I am hoping to catch him at Pomona in October, I think I will still be on the dolly then:thumbsdown

[Just Electric]

wow pretty fn sick you and your dad do bad ass work should be a pretty nice rig when its done for sure

[Flat Broke]

Do you want to run a tunnel ram for performance or for looks? The reason I ask is because that Weiand tr isn't the best thing going for a max effort N/A engine. If you just want the nostalgic look of dual quads, you could go with a STD 2x4 intake and keep everything under the hatch.

If you want to stay with the tr, But aren't comitted to the weiand, you migh look into a tr with a removeable top plate that would allow you to make a plenum spacer that would cleanly raise the carbs. The down side is that the added plenum height might have a derogatory impact on performance. I'm a N/A guy myself, but a blower and chiller would get you the height you're looking for ;)

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Do you want to run a tunnel ram for performance or for looks? The reason I ask is because that Weiand tr isn't the best thing going for a max effort N/A engine. If you just want the nostalgic look of dual quads, you could go with a STD 2x4 intake and keep everything under the hatch.

If you want to stay with the tr, But aren't comitted to the weiand, you migh look into a tr with a removeable top plate that would allow you to make a plenum spacer that would cleanly raise the carbs. The down side is that the added plenum height might have a derogatory impact on performance. I'm a N/A guy myself, but a blower and chiller would get you the height you're looking for ;)

Looking mainly for nostalgia, I am not looking to go fast in this thing just a cruiser (more show than go) and I really wanted to get the scoop just above the engine cover. I appreciate your insight, and I am not committed to this exact intake, I like the looks and I love the finned valley on this ram, goes with all my other old stuff. This TR has a removable top plate and th emain reason I picked it up was for the 3" top plate, this is only 5 inces or close to the single four I run on my flat. I may just space out the scoop. I just want something that is not a complete dog and will get out of its own way. I am building the bottom end for a blolwer motor...... one day :D

[akakiller]

I'm at a lost for words! That trailer RULES!!!!!

[SPECTRABRENT]

Jeff, I am copying a friends hatch, (I attached the pictures of Bob's spectra20) or at least the shape. I wanted to keep this thing light while still staying strong so I am using Poplar and then will stain and seal it. The 4 center supports are mortised into the front and back and I used a "SLURRY" (fiberglass grinding dust mixed with resin, this stuff is strong) as a glue then used Stainless screws to hold everything. The top of the cover will be the same height as the highest point on the deck, I have watched Bob drive by and then another 20 go by and Bobs boat looks 2' longer, by taking the hatch up to the same height I believe your eye catches the boat differently, may sound funny but I had other people look at the same thing and they swore Bob's boat was not the same as the other 20...???

I am using Eddie Marine Scissor hinges and I am still deciding on a ram or just some hydraulic shocks like on truck lids, I want the least amount of stuff under the hatch, just my prefrence.

For the gaps I used 3/8 plywood and cut strips and screwed them to the inside of the combing rails, I am redoing the whole boat you may want to fasten them another way:D With the angels on the boats when you are all done you will have between 3/8 and 1/2 inch of gap and that will be plenty for upholstry, if you know who is going to do your stuff, you may want to ask them their prefrence. I used some 1/8 inch plywood and made templates and then just started cutting and fitting. Use a lot of clamps and check your gaps to keep them even across the back and also if you are using the hatch as the head of the rear seats make sure you keep that straight. I clamped a 2x2 across the front to keep any bow out.

74 Spectra 20,

Can you get some better pics of the Spectra 20's cav plate setup?
Close up's etc..

THanks,

Brent

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Brent, here is the best picture I have of the plates.

[SPECTRABRENT]

Brent, here is the best picture I have of the plates.

THanks.

Brent

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Got some time on the Spectra, Should be upside down at the shop Novermber 1. I am pretty much done with mock up with the exception of front seats but I am letting the upholstry guy do that since I am not sure how to build the seats I want.
I am pretty happy with the engine cover and I just have a bit of shaping to do and need to build a little door, but it works, I have decided to go with liner actuator to open/close. I will be making an access door on the rear of the lid, I went back and forth an wheather to do it or not but I hate fighting with tight spaces and this will make it very easy to get to the water pump etc and also unhook the ram if I lose battery.

[grantlenk]

Have you decided on a color yet?

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Basic colors will be Blue/white/silver... the design will be left up to Kenny Meyers at B&K. So I know there will be some very subtle lines with other colors, I think a green and yellow somewhere. He has a way of making it all blend and at 75 years old still lays out a boat great.

[SPECTRABRENT]

Basic colors will be Blue/white/silver... the design will be left up to Kenny Meyers at B&K. So I know there will be some very subtle lines with other colors, I think a green and yellow somewhere. He has a way of making it all blend and at 75 years old still lays out a boat great.

I would keep that bad boy stock, yellow with white bottom;).
I redo the woodgrain too!

Brent

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

It won't be crazy, very simple lines. I have a friends 20 posted in here, purple and grey, when he drives by on the river near another Spectra or one of several splashes, his boat looks two feet longer and lower than the others. I love the day cruiser and want to update a bit but keep the original lines. No slashes and fades just simple use of color and lines.

[SPECTRABRENT]

It won't be crazy, very simple lines. I have a friends 20 posted in here, purple and grey, when he drives by on the river near another Spectra or one of several splashes, his boat looks two feet longer and lower than the others. I love the day cruiser and want to update a bit but keep the original lines. No slashes and fades just simple use of color and lines.

From the what you doing, I am sure your boat will be off the hook!

Brent

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Well not sure about that, I just hope to get off the dolly soon

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Well I have 3 weeks to meet my time line of being at the shop upside down by Nov 1 and I seem to be on target! Between work, kids and just life it is hard to get a chance to work on this thing.
Interior framing is 90% done just need to seal up and make seat bottoms. I am thinking of making rear seat in two pieces, since I will have batteries under them and some storage, it seems easier to move aroud smaller cushions, any negative thoughts on that?
I ended up with a little less room between back seats and front seats but still comfortable, went oversided (I hope) on front seats, this should be a cruiser low and slow. Once I have upholstered my big butt should still fit. Does anyone have a good upholstery guy in So Cal that they would recommend, I want simple two tone gray with I believe they call it a French stitch. Some storage pockets behind the front seats and on the side panels.

[Flat Broke]

Well I have 3 weeks to meet my time line of being at the shop upside down by Nov 1 and I seem to be on target! Between work, kids and just life it is hard to get a chance to work on this thing.
Interior framing is 90% done just need to seal up and make seat bottoms. I am thinking of making rear seat in two pieces, since I will have batteries under them and some storage, it seems easier to move aroud smaller cushions, any negative thoughts on that?
I ended up with a little less room between back seats and front seats but still comfortable, went oversided (I hope) on front seats, this should be a cruiser low and slow. Once I have upholstered my big butt should still fit. Does anyone have a good upholstery guy in So Cal that they would recommend, I want simple two tone gray with I believe they call it a French stitch. Some storage pockets behind the front seats and on the side panels.

First of all, it looks frickin sick. I wish I had the motivation you do to get my ride done.

As far as interior, ask Kenny. I'll try and find the post or email from another Spectra 20 owner, but IIRC he said Kenny recommended the upholsterer or knew him or something. I believe he as also in Bellflower or the immediate area. If you need to jog Kenny's memory, it was the customer with the Spectra he did with blue stripe with lime green pin.

If that doesn't work out Stitchcraft in HB does good work, though they may gripe about working with your frames instead of from from their templates.

Hope that helps,
Chris

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Chris, I think we may have met over at B&K, was your spectra on a dolly trailer and you brought it by to have Ken look at the stringers??? Kenny usually send people to Eddie and Son's or Don when he is in town. I was just looking around to see what else is out ther or I should say who else is out there. There is no doubt that Don is one of the best around but my timing will be the half a year or so when he is out of town.

[Flat Broke]

Nope, it wasn't me over at B&K.
Revo's group of guys at Stitchcraft can get you taken care of in a timley fashion and their quality is top notch.

[Just Electric]

any update pics:D

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

any update pics:D

No updates, except from the orthadontist, OUCH... all 3 kids need braces. I haven't been in the garage since early October, went to Parker for a week so I can't complain about that, but since getting back I have not even looked at the Spectra. I have cut my work space down in the garage as well since I have my flat bottom in there now as well, it will be heading back to Dads shop in a week or so. I should have learned my lesson when it comes to setting dates on this dam day cruiser, every time I have had a date on my calendar I miss it by a mile. Shooting for some progress this week.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Well it's December 13th and I am still in the garage, I am just waiting far a boat or two to leave B&K and then I am headed over, possibly next Friday. I have been able to get a layer of 6oz cloth on the top of the engine cover so all joints are sealed and now I am ready to finish the underside.

I am using a finish called "Bristol" the stuff is really cool, buids great and flows out great and goes on with a brush. I will be putting 6 to 8 coats on then blocking down with 220 and spraying a final coat, I was able to see this process done last summer on a wood decker and it came out awesome.

I also finally fiished my latch set up on my hatch. I have a hatch that will come off the engine cover so I can access water pump and in general get a better look at things without having to climb over the engine. I have been playing with several types of latch set up's and hinges, I was trying to set it up where everything was hidden but it just did not work out. I ended up with two twist lock latches that will sit flush with the upholstery, and they work really good, easy to grab and pull hatch up w/o having to pry on upholstery etc... I was worried about my gaps on teh hatch but they look pretty good with just material, once I have foam and stapled down it should look OK.

I hope to post some pictures of the Spectra being flipped and the bottom being ground on next.:champagne:

[Lou Darrin]

I believe the original owner was Mike Deihl from Las Vegas. I skied behind this boat in 1975 on lake mead. It's going to be a much nicer boat now though. Great work, love to see it when it's done !

[Just Electric]

looking forward to seeing the progress pics as usuall

[vdcruiser]

74 spectra20, I just read this entire thread, and not that you need any more compliments, but damn what a nice build. I know you intend it to be a "cruiser" for now, but be sure to put on the correct angle strut and locate it properly so it will be ready for that blower motor down the road. :D

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I hit a milestone today with our Spectra build, the boat has left my garage and is at B&K boat repair in Bellflower. We flipped her over and I am heading in tomorrow to start a long process of grinding the bottom you can see the bracing Kenny made up to flip a boat, the thing went over just like a pig on a rotisserie. The entire bottom needs to be ground down past the original gel coat. I believe this boat lived the majority of it's life in the water and even with the anti fouling bottom paint there is a lot of contamination in the gel coat and into the glass. We will take it down with 24 grit and see where we end up. I feel a lot of sanding coming my way.:champagne:

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

some more pictures:

[vdcruiser]

Great pics 74 Spectra20, Did that fixture you used at the transom bolt on at the top and bottom brackets or just thru where the cav plate adjustment shaft mounts ? I would love to get mine rolled over.:bowdown:

[steveo143]

If you plan on adding big horsepower at some time I would lengthen the center strakes while you have it flipped. Go at least to mid strut for 1000hp, or all the way to the transom for higher hp. I went mid strut while boat was on trailer, total pain, need to go all the way and will flip it this time. This is on a 21' DiMarco, same bottom. Great work and great thread, thank you. Happy New Year to all!

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Great pics 74 Spectra20, Did that fixture you used at the transom bolt on at the top and bottom brackets or just thru where the cav plate adjustment shaft mounts ? I would love to get mine rolled over.:bowdown:

The fixture just bolted in the center of the transom, the pads, top and bottom add support and make it very rigid, works great.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

If you plan on adding big horsepower at some time I would lengthen the center strakes while you have it flipped. Go at least to mid strut for 1000hp, or all the way to the transom for higher hp. I went mid strut while boat was on trailer, total pain, need to go all the way and will flip it this time. This is on a 21' DiMarco, same bottom. Great work and great thread, thank you. Happy New Year to all!

Steve, I was just having that conversation today with Kenny over at his shop, I probably won't ever hit the 1,000 hp range but just in case we are talking about bringing the strakes back, thank you for the heads up.

[RiverDave]

I know the strakes are important on a jet, but I think they'd be far less important on a v-drive? If you need more transom lift you can bend the plates a bit? I would think you wouldn't want to extend them, as it would help lift the bow a bit in a v-drive app, by having them shorter?

Thoughts?

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

B&K had a customer with a Warren(?) day cruiser, big boat 22' if I remember correctly. The owner had a blown BBC and was not happy with the lift he had, they tried different props, plate set ups etc. They ended up adding strakes and it made a bit of a difference in getting the bow out of the water. The strakes can add a lot to a v-drive in lift and also turning. Not that much work to add or tweak especially if it is already upside down.

I am not racing this thing but would like to improve as much performance as possible, I appreciate any insight and suggestions.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Finished clearing my engine cover, came out good, I really like the Bristol finish I picked up at West Marine. I brushed 4 coats and then blocked and sanded the cover, finished with 220 and 0000 steel wool. I finished with 4 coats sprayed on, thinning with acetone, sprayed nice. Pretty much done with this project just need to polish the aluminum plates that the hinges bolt to and make up the pieces that will cover the upholstey as it wraps under around the scoop opening.

I did get a chance to grind on the bottom last Tuesday, 5 and half hours with 24 grit and I finished 1 side of the bottom. The material is so dam thick, the first pass with the grinder looks like I drug my fingers through frosting on a cake. With all the antifouling and two colors of gel coat, the bottom looks really good once I get to glass. Hopeing to get back to the shop Monday evening and hitting the other side. Once I have it ground to glass we will resin coat and then block. Then we will gel coat and block and then paint...

[Just Electric]

that came out really nice its gonna be a show piece when its done

[spectra81]

WELL I WENT OUT AT 3AM TO MEASURE THE STRUT, LOL SO IF SOMETHING DOES NOT SOUND RIGHT,CONSIDER THE TIME LOL.
OK HERE GOES , THE TOTAL BARREL LENGTH OF THE STRUT IS 8". I COULD NOT FIND MY ADJUSTABLE SQUARE SO MEASURING FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE STRUT TO CENTER OF THE BARREL ON ONE END IS 7-1/4" AND 5-3/4"AT THE OTHER END. FROM TRANSOM TO END OF BARREL ON STRUT IS 13" I HOPE THIS HELPS AND GOOD LUCK.

[RiverDave]

I talked to Racey about the strut locatin / angle etc.. He said he would take a look at the thread and try to help you out. :)

RD

[Racey]

I can't believe i never caught wind of this thread, but i hardly ever venture into the Spectra section.... anyway I have one of Terrible's old Gilbreath rigged 21' race boats sitting in our back storage for the winter, I'll pull some measurements for you, strut angle/location, v-drive location etc. The boat was a strong runner high 80's low 90's. Anyway Great thread, you have put a lot of hard work into that boat, it is really coming out beautiful :thumbsup it's good too see there are still some highly skilled hobby craftsmen keeping this type of boating culture alive.

Also i noticed you had a lot of parts mocked up in plywood, i do a lot of waterjet cutting for guys from patterns like those, so if you are looking for somewhere to have those parts machined from aluminum you can fedex/ups all the wood patterns to me and i can make exact replicas of them.

[SPECTRABRENT]

I can't believe i never caught wind of this thread, but i hardly ever venture into the Spectra section.... anyway I have one of Terrible's old Gilbreath rigged 21' race boats sitting in our back storage for the winter, I'll pull some measurements for you, strut angle/location, v-drive location etc. The boat was a strong runner high 80's low 90's. Anyway Great thread, you have put a lot of hard work into that boat, it is really coming out beautiful :thumbsup it's good too see there are still some highly skilled hobby craftsmen keeping this type of boating culture alive.

Also i noticed you had a lot of parts mocked up in plywood, i do a lot of waterjet cutting for guys from patterns like those, so if you are looking for somewhere to have those parts machined from aluminum you can fedex/ups all the wood patterns to me and i can make exact replicas of them.

Racey,

Please take some pictures of Terrible's Spectra 20.

Brent

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

WELL I WENT OUT AT 3AM TO MEASURE THE STRUT, LOL SO IF SOMETHING DOES NOT SOUND RIGHT,CONSIDER THE TIME LOL.
OK HERE GOES , THE TOTAL BARREL LENGTH OF THE STRUT IS 8". I COULD NOT FIND MY ADJUSTABLE SQUARE SO MEASURING FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE STRUT TO CENTER OF THE BARREL ON ONE END IS 7-1/4" AND 5-3/4"AT THE OTHER END. FROM TRANSOM TO END OF BARREL ON STRUT IS 13" I HOPE THIS HELPS AND GOOD LUCK.

Thanks Greg, I didn't wnat to make you go out and measure this at 3am !!! but I appreciate it, I am moving pretty good on the bottom and want to keep the momentum.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I can't believe i never caught wind of this thread, but i hardly ever venture into the Spectra section.... anyway I have one of Terrible's old Gilbreath rigged 21' race boats sitting in our back storage for the winter, I'll pull some measurements for you, strut angle/location, v-drive location etc. The boat was a strong runner high 80's low 90's. Anyway Great thread, you have put a lot of hard work into that boat, it is really coming out beautiful :thumbsup it's good too see there are still some highly skilled hobby craftsmen keeping this type of boating culture alive.

Also i noticed you had a lot of parts mocked up in plywood, i do a lot of waterjet cutting for guys from patterns like those, so if you are looking for somewhere to have those parts machined from aluminum you can fedex/ups all the wood patterns to me and i can make exact replicas of them.

Racey, thank you so much for taking an interest and helping out, I really appreciate everyones input and insight. I appreciate the kind words but go easy on the highly skilled part, I edit my pictures and only show the good ones:D

I am interested in the Mandella you were setting up, have you made any more progress? The shop where I have the Spectra at right now has 2 late 50's all wood Patterson flats and an early 60's Patterson Cracker. These old boats are like looking at History book for me and I love looking at the craftsman ship that went into them, this is the true boating culture.

also Thanks for the info on water jetting, Right now I have access to a great shop via my Brother, if I loose this connection I will be sending some things your way.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

OK Guys, I am really impressed with so many people willing to lend their time and energy to a guy building a boat in his back yard, this really epitomizes how cool the boating community is and why this site is pulling so many people on board.

I had sent a couple of PM's to RD and Greg, (Spectra81) following up on questions they had asked me quite a while ago on Strut location.
So here is the question: I know the Spectra 20's have a heavy bow and with any type of power in them they get a little scary to drive with the stock set up not lifting enough of the bow out of the water. I have heard from several people about relocating the strut. I am running mild power 550HP with the stock Champion gear box. (I believe 10 degree) With future plans of 700+ HP what would be the best set up, since we have the boat up side down now this would be the time to move stuff. Also how about changing the center strakes, they are about 10" shorter (measuring from the transom) than a 21 Schiada, I understand they are completely different bottoms, but had some advice offered to me from steveo143 who runs a Dimarco 21, same bottom as the Spectra and he extended the strakes and was very happy with that.

So looking at changing the strut and strakes, do we do both or just one or the other?

[RiverDave]

I called Mike R. at Prime Marine today, and he's going to take a gander at the thread as well when he gets a chance. :)

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I really thought I was done with the itchy and dusty part of this project.... almost done griding the bottom down to glass, will finish up tomorrow evening I just have about 6 feet left to grind from the bottom strake to the keel and then we will start working the botom, strut changes and or strake changes?

[Racey]

OK Guys, I am really impressed with so many people willing to lend their time and energy to a guy building a boat in his back yard, this really epitomizes how cool the boating community is and why this site is pulling so many people on board.

I had sent a couple of PM's to RD and Greg, (Spectra81) following up on questions they had asked me quite a while ago on Strut location.
So here is the question: I know the Spectra 20's have a heavy bow and with any type of power in them they get a little scary to drive with the stock set up not lifting enough of the bow out of the water. I have heard from several people about relocating the strut. I am running mild power 550HP with the stock Champion gear box. (I believe 10 degree) With future plans of 700+ HP what would be the best set up, since we have the boat up side down now this would be the time to move stuff. Also how about changing the center strakes, they are about 10" shorter (measuring from the transom) than a 21 Schiada, I understand they are completely different bottoms, but had some advice offered to me from steveo143 who runs a Dimarco 21, same bottom as the Spectra and he extended the strakes and was very happy with that.

So looking at changing the strut and strakes, do we do both or just one or the other?


More important than changing the strakes is getting all the hook out of the bottom (i'm guessing this is why you have the boat upside down anyway).

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

More important than changing the strakes is getting all the hook out of the bottom (i'm guessing this is why you have the boat upside down anyway).

Racey, this boat lived most of it's life on Lake Mead and I believe it was stored in the water. The hull was coverd with a massive amount of antifouling paint that was cracked and chipped all over. There was some severe checking as well around the transom and we feared we were going to have to lay up a couple layers of glass. Good news was that 8 inches off teh transom all the checking was gone. The bottom looks great once all the material is off. There is very little hook and the bottom is nice and straight, and will be better once we block it all out a few times.

[Just Electric]

so now that you started on the bottom you gonna speed coat since its flipped

[vdcruiser]

74 spectra20, On my 21' Howard I talked to Phil Bergeron when I was planning on moving my strut. He asked around and decided we needed a 7.5 deg. strut (which he made for me) mounted with the end of the barrel 24" from the transom. He also moved the centerline closer to the bottom so the prop blade clears the bottom by about 1/2" / 5/8". The barrel was originally 17" from the transom and the angle was 10 deg. This made the boat handle really well at 100+ mph and doesn't have any ill effects at slower speeds. Get this right and you will be very happy with the boat. So far as where to mount the V drive, once the strut is located that will dictate where the V drive will be. Mine went forward about 13" from the original location. I have been told to extend the strakes back to the end of the strut. This I haven't done yet, but I hope to do it this winter. At top speed I don't believe my strakes are touching the water as it carries the bow nicely.
By the way nice job sanding the bottom, did you do it all with a disc sander?

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

so now that you started on the bottom you gonna speed coat since its flipped

Not going to speed coat, I want it all one color.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

74 spectra20, On my 21' Howard I talked to Phil Bergeron when I was planning on moving my strut. He asked around and decided we needed a 7.5 deg. strut (which he made for me) mounted with the end of the barrel 24" from the transom. He also moved the centerline closer to the bottom so the prop blade clears the bottom by about 1/2" / 5/8". The barrel was originally 17" from the transom and the angle was 10 deg. This made the boat handle really well at 100+ mph and doesn't have any ill effects at slower speeds. Get this right and you will be very happy with the boat. So far as where to mount the V drive, once the strut is located that will dictate where the V drive will be. Mine went forward about 13" from the original location. I have been told to extend the strakes back to the end of the strut. This I haven't done yet, but I hope to do it this winter. At top speed I don't believe my strakes are touching the water as it carries the bow nicely.
By the way nice job sanding the bottom, did you do it all with a disc sander?
VDCruiser, Thank you for that info, exactly what I was looking for!!! Now I will probably never hot triple digits, but just in case. Kenny over at B&K was talking to me about the center line last night and we we measuring prop spacing off another Spectra 20 that is in his shop, the stock set up with a worn prop, I measured 11" left just over 2" of space from the bottom. I have a strut that will work, may not get as low as yours I am looking at 9 degree I believe, but will at least move the prop forward and closer to the bottom of the boat. I will recess the bottom, for a prop shield, I was also told that just the water being thrown off the prop and hitting the bottom of the boat will start to eat away at the glass.

I did use a 9" 24 grit disk (about 10 of them) on a body grinder the polisher / sander type these work best for glass, low speed 2300 rpm works great, just whittle away and try to keep the edges out of it.

[vdcruiser]

If your strut is a bolt on you may be able to lower the angle by recessing the back end of the "foot" deeper than the front end. I made a recessed "blast plate" out .090" of stainless steel because the prop was eroding the bottom. It runs from the transom to the rear of the strut foot and was was bent up to match the V of the bottom. I can't over emphisize how much difference changing the strut made.

[spectra81]

WASWONDERING IF THOSE DIM I GAVE YOU FORTHE STRUT WERE CLOSE TO WHAT YOU HAVE .MY SPECTRA HANDLES BEAUTIFUL SO I WAS JUST CURIOUS THANKS GREG

[Racey]

Terrible Habit 21' Spectra Measurements

8 degree strut
17" from end of keel to back of strut barrel
7.25" from bottom of boat to center of back of barrel
102" from inside transom to center plate of casale split case v-drive.

[SPECTRABRENT]

Terrible Habit 21' Spectra Measurements

8 degree strut
17" from end of keel to back of strut barrel
7.25" from bottom of boat to center of back of barrel
102" from inside transom to center plate of casale split case v-drive.

Any pics?

Thanks for the info.

Brent

[Racey]

No pics, it's burried way back in a dark narrow storage unit.

[SPECTRABRENT]

No pics, it's burried way back in a dark narrow storage unit.

Thanks,

Brent

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

WASWONDERING IF THOSE DIM I GAVE YOU FORTHE STRUT WERE CLOSE TO WHAT YOU HAVE .MY SPECTRA HANDLES BEAUTIFUL SO I WAS JUST CURIOUS THANKS GREG

Greg, I haven't made it by the shop yet, trying to make it Friday afternoon. it looks pretty close, just by measuring the strut on the bench. Do you have a stock strut or did you change it?

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Terrible Habit 21' Spectra Measurements

8 degree strut
17" from end of keel to back of strut barrel
7.25" from bottom of boat to center of back of barrel
102" from inside transom to center plate of casale split case v-drive.

Thanks Racey, I really appreciat you taking the time to get these numbers! I will hopefully start working on this Friday or Saturday.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I made a decission and went with VDcruiser on his set up, very close to all the input I had received and I wanted to thank everyone for your thoughts and time on getting me info. We moved the prop 8" forward netting me 23" off the transom to the end of the barrel, this will also allow me to keep my gear box close to the original spot just a bit forward and lower in the boat. It came out really close, and I am very happy with how everything is lining up. it also brought the prop to under 7/8 of an inch from the bottom. We went into the keel nearly an inch to get the strut where I wanted it, netting about 9 1/2 degree, but that works for me. Next week I will get the bottom re-glassed and create the new pocket and pad for the strut. I filled in the old strut pad last night needed about 9 layers of glass. This will be ground blocked and shapped and then I can rout the bottom for the prop shield or blast shield (not sure what you call it).

[Flat Broke]

I itch head to toe just looking at those pics :)

[vdcruiser]

74spectra 20, I hope that works out for you, if not we'll blame it on the difference in the angle.:D

[RiverDave]

Who built the strut for you?

RD

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

74spectra 20, I hope that works out for you, if not we'll blame it on the difference in the angle.:D

I am sure that we will have improved performance, I was able to see a couple of Spectra20's this past weekend or 1 spectra and a Howard, both had the struts moved forward. I have a friend with a Spectra 20 with teh stock strut location and he will be my litmus test to the changes, but it just makes sence to do it.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Who built the strut for you?

RD

Dave, I have had this strut on my shelf for several years, I picked it up just in case .... it is a stellings strut and should work great for my application. as you can see we are making the boat fit the strut rather than having the strut made to fit the boat... what the hell, I needed the practice working with glass.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I got about an hour and a half at the shop tonight, was able to grind and block the old strut location that I glassed in last Friday, it came out great, it is flat from every angel. I was able to put new bearings in the strut, set it and get holes drilled. I won't be back at the shop untill Friday evening, we will start to build up the bottom and get the new strut location finished. By using the strut I had, I have created more work in getting the bottom dialed in.

[Flat Broke]

I got about an hour and a half at the shop tonight, was able to grind and block the old strut location that I glassed in last Friday, it came out great, it is flat from every angel. I was able to put new bearings in the strut, set it and get holes drilled. I won't be back at the shop untill Friday evening, we will start to build up the bottom and get the new strut location finished. By using the strut I had, I have created more work in getting the bottom dialed in.

I should be working on an executive summary for an operational management course, but f' that, lets talk boats :D In looking at your strut, I got a bitchen idea (rhut rho) about how you could fill the void between the strut and the area you've ground away. After you've bedded and mounted the strut and your poxy putty, or marinetex is dry, pull the hardware and machine alluminum triangles that fit on each side of the strut with the hypoteneuse matching the V of the hull. Then locate the strut holes with some transfer punches, and sandwich strut base bewteen the alluminum parts and the hull, with the new aluminum parts bedded down in the putty of your choice. You could make relief cuts on the strut flange/base mating surface of the parts so it contacts the hull and flange evenly. To top it off make a matching single piece block for the top, and clamp it all together. It might be overkill, but from a non-vdrive owner's perspective, it seems like it would be almost as strong as a drop through strut. Hopefully my description is clearer than mud.

On another note, are you at all worried about some of those cracks extending forward from the transom? On the various ones on my hull that were like that, I had to go down .250-.375" to get to clear glass. Where yours are at, they'll be in the cav plate recess, so hopefully they'll be gone by the time you're done routing for your plates.

Chris

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I should be working on an executive summary for an operational management course, but f' that, lets talk boats :D In looking at your strut, I got a bitchen idea (rhut rho) about how you could fill the void between the strut and the area you've ground away. After you've bedded and mounted the strut and your poxy putty, or marinetex is dry, pull the hardware and machine alluminum triangles that fit on each side of the strut with the hypoteneuse matching the V of the hull. Then locate the strut holes with some transfer punches, and sandwich strut base bewteen the alluminum parts and the hull, with the new aluminum parts bedded down in the putty of your choice. You could make relief cuts on the strut flange/base mating surface of the parts so it contacts the hull and flange evenly. To top it off make a matching single piece block for the top, and clamp it all together. It might be overkill, but from a non-vdrive owner's perspective, it seems like it would be almost as strong as a drop through strut. Hopefully my description is clearer than mud.

On another note, are you at all worried about some of those cracks extending forward from the transom? On the various ones on my hull that were like that, I had to go down .250-.375" to get to clear glass. Where yours are at, they'll be in the cav plate recess, so hopefully they'll be gone by the time you're done routing for your plates.

Chris

Hey Chris, I am looking at a few options on the strut, one being very similar to what you described, good eye for a Jet guy:D

On the cracks coming off the transom we are not worried about them, I will be taking a 1/4 inch of material off the bottom for the cav plates, I also have already built up the inside of the boat with 4 layers of glass, so we are in good shape.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I was able to finish the strut pad, I am hoping that I can get to the shop Friday evening and get to work on teh strakes. Then just 20 hours or so of resin coating and blocking and we will be close to finishing the bottom.

[vdcruiser]

Looks good 74spetra20, you are going to have to redrill the shaft hole aren't you? Can't wait to see how you extend the strakes.

[SecondLife]

Very nice detailed account of the Spectra restore project indeed! It would be REALLY cool to get an update here ! And if sadly the money problem is still a problem, I for one understand totally and I would also entertain purchasing that trailer if it were ever for sale with all due respect.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Hey Secondlife, nice to have another Spectra on here. I am pushing along on the project, money is fine I am just trying to do this with my play money and not tap into savings or household accounts, the time issue has been the biggest factor but we are closing in on the target. Baseball and softball are kicking off and I have two teams that I am coaching. OH and the trailer will not be up for sale:D Too much time with Dad involved there and I am a sap for things like that. I will send you a PM about posting pictures, I would love to see your boat.

[specrocz]

Very nice detailed account of the Spectra restore project indeed! It would be REALLY cool to get an update here ! And if sadly the money problem is still a problem, I for one understand totally and I would also entertain purchasing that trailer if it were ever for sale with all due respect.

:loser:Dude, where did it say in any previous posts that money was an issue? This rebuild is "real life" project style, where daily life dictates where and when you can get things done. Not like "overhaulin" where a team of experts totally gut and repower, paint, and custom in a 7 day span. This rebuild is nearing "legendary" status and would be a contender for awards if there are any in the hot boat hobby.

[NAFLASH]

:loser:Dude, where did it say in any previous posts that money was an issue? This rebuild is "real life" project style, where daily life dictates where and when you can get things done. Not like "overhaulin" where a team of experts totally gut and repower, paint, and custom in a 7 day span. This rebuild is nearing "legendary" status and would be a contender for awards if there are any in the hot boat hobby.
Is this a serious post? Cool your jets.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I was able to get back on the boat this evening, and have the strakes about 90% roughed in. I just used a piece of 1" corner molding, taped and waxed it up and that's the 1 sided mold . I should have taken some before pictures to show how we got to this point. We had the strakes measured and marked for how far back we were coming and keeping a straight line to the existing strake. I beveled the back of the original strake to give more bonding surface. I used some mounds of bondo as glue, set the mold on them and pushed down till I hit the positin I needed. (Bondo works great because it will pop off easy.) I then ripped 18 pieces of matt, 9 each side 3 different sizes wide to narrow, and started glassing. The frayed edges on the glass are there on purpose, by fraying the edges you can manipulate the matt and it fills better. When I get back to the shop I can take a grinder and kiss the edges and see where I am. I think I will need about 3 more layers and then block and shape.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Forgot the pictures

[Just Electric]

wow for someone thats doin this in there garage for a hobby it sure is turning out bitchen keep up the good work

[Flying_Lavey]

Thanks for sharing the pictures of your project. Its coming along REALLY nice!

The pictures of it when you bought it gave me flashbacks! lol! This thing could damn near be my grandpa's old boat's twin! His was an early Spectra20 (dont know the year) that was a V-drive with a 455 Olds in it as well. I was told that combo (455 Olds V-drive) was very rare for the Spectras. I know it isnt my grandpa's old boat though cause his had static Cav plates, no swim step, and back to back benches but, the SAME color scheme.

[Flat Broke]

Nice!

I wish I would have gone that route on mine. I never thought about using bondo to hold the mold. Yours should rough in really fast, with a nice straight edge to boot!

Can't wait to see the next update. I'm still waiting on available time and clear weather to shoot my trailer so I can get mine rightside up again.

Chris

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Got to the shop this evening, the molds popped right off. The first pic is right after using a claw hammer to pop off the mold any tape left on came off with the grinder. it only took about 5 minutes to get both sides cleaned up, tape off and hairs ground down. then put a straight edge across the top to evaluate where I was. I originally thought I was going to need more glass, but I was very close and after about a half hour of grinding we were almost home. And I havent had to pick up a block yet:party:, I will have plenty of that in the coming weeks. I used the grinding dust and resin mixed up into a slurry and shapped in the end of the strakes and ran a skim coat over the entire area. The right side starke was about an 1/8" shorter than the left, that is why the mold is back on, The slurry will make up that difference no problem and will bond with no issues. Everything is being ground with 24 grit so there is plenty of rough surface to bite to. I am trying very hard to get back tomorrow night and put this portion to bed, I need to strike a chalk line and determine a straight line on the keel side from the existing strake, and then grind down my slurry and finish shaping. In a couple of pictures you can see 5 one gallon cans, those are all filled with grinding dust from what we have taken off the bottom of the boat, I also have a 5 gallon bucket at home full of dust as well from the stringer removal, so 10 gallons of grinding dust not to mention all that I have swept and vaced up. This is a flippin messy, itchy process, but I am really having fun doing it.

[vdcruiser]

Man you're a grinding somebody, You make it sound easy. I guess by now you have gotten pretty good with the sander. :champagne:

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

The key to grinding fiberglass is to use a sander polisher grinder, nothing above 2800 rpm, and use good disks. The green 3M disks are a must, you will pay the price for them, but they work and last.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

FINISHED STRAKES TONIGHT!!!! They are done, and Monday I will route the bottom for the plates and prop was guard. Hopefully I will get a resin coat down but not sure if I will have the time.

[Flat Broke]

:thumbsup:thumbsup:thumbsup:thumbsup NICE!

I know that's an awsome feeling. The routing and resin coat/blocking are going to go by quick. It was such a nice day today, I was really pissed that I haven't had time to work on the trailer.

Keep up the bitchen work!

Chris

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Finaly had some free time, been a couple of weeks since I was able to work on the boat, no wonder this thing has taken me so long:rolleyes:

Next step is to finish off the strakes, they looked pretty good until I put an 8' level on them, not too bad just a coupe of spots to fill and shape.

[spectra81]

BEAUTIFUL LOOKING WORK

[vdcruiser]

Nice job man, I haven't been on here in a while. How thick is your plate going to be?

[RiverDave]

Did you work in a boatshow for some large portion of your life or something?

RD

[Just Electric]

nice work.i wish i was that skilled for a boat hobbiest

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I am going to use 1/8 stainless plates, the pictures make the recess look really deep, it's right at 3/16+ or minus a 32nd. I shoudl have taken pictures of the routing process, my work area looked like it was covered in snow, the glass was flying...

I am going to resin coat the entire bottom of the boat and I will hit the recessed area with an extra coat or two. Also we will be gel coating the bottom for a primer prior to paint and I will not block the recessd area but I will block and take the gel coat down until I start to break through on the rest of the bottom, so that extra material should make up the 1/16 or close to for the plates to end up flush with the bottom.

I am fortunate that Kenny and Mark have allowed me to move in at B&K, they are great and they answer my questions and give advice. I have been bumming around this shop since before I could walk though, Kenny and my dad met in the late 40's so he really is Uncle Kenny to my family. My dads brother got kenny into boats.

I was at the shop tonight and was going to take a couple of pictures of the 58' (I believe) patterson that is in the booth, complete new mahogany deck, the entire boat was reworked less the wood structure inside. paint is done, deck is buffed, Kenny is laying out some stripes. I didn't snap any pics since I don't know the owner and I was the only one there but I will ask next week when I go back, it is beautiful. I was told that they are building a polished stainless trailer for the boat as well.

[Just Electric]

well whatever you end up doin keep us posted bitchen thread and talent

[vdcruiser]

Yea, the recesses look really deep, just wondered. The work is beautiful though. I know what you mean about the mess from the routing process, I routed mine for a blast plate, from under the boat.:D

[Flat Broke]

Yea, the recesses look really deep, just wondered. The work is beautiful though. I know what you mean about the mess from the routing process, I routed mine for a blast plate, from under the boat.:D

I bet that tasted good :)

Chris

[rivergames]

I am going to use 1/8 stainless plates, the pictures make the recess look really deep, it's right at 3/16+ or minus a 32nd. I shoudl have taken pictures of the routing process, my work area looked like it was covered in snow, the glass was flying...

I am going to resin coat the entire bottom of the boat and I will hit the recessed area with an extra coat or two. Also we will be gel coating the bottom for a primer prior to paint and I will not block the recessd area but I will block and take the gel coat down until I start to break through on the rest of the bottom, so that extra material should make up the 1/16 or close to for the plates to end up flush with the bottom.

I am fortunate that Kenny and Mark have allowed me to move in at B&K, they are great and they answer my questions and give advice. I have been bumming around this shop since before I could walk though, Kenny and my dad met in the late 40's so he really is Uncle Kenny to my family. My dads brother got kenny into boats.

I was at the shop tonight and was going to take a couple of pictures of the 58' (I believe) patterson that is in the booth, complete new mahogany deck, the entire boat was reworked less the wood structure inside. paint is done, deck is buffed, Kenny is laying out some stripes. I didn't snap any pics since I don't know the owner and I was the only one there but I will ask next week when I go back, it is beautiful. I was told that they are building a polished stainless trailer for the boat as well.


Say Hi to my crackerbox over at B&K next time your there :D

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

RiverGames, I met your Uncle and Grandfather on Saturday, coll guys. I was pretty impressed with the cradel set up the craker is on, great way to roll the boat!! Is that Mr Magoo's set up or yours?
Kenny was thinking pretty hard about the best way to tackle that bottom. The boat is really nice looking and there is no better place to send an ailing cracker. Mr Magoo was upside down in there for a long time before it was done. He should be able to get the wave out of the bottom and help you out. Good luck and I hope to meet you guys at some upcoming races next season.

[rivergames]

RiverGames, I met your Uncle and Grandfather on Saturday, coll guys. I was pretty impressed with the cradel set up the craker is on, great way to roll the boat!! Is that Mr Magoo's set up or yours?
Kenny was thinking pretty hard about the best way to tackle that bottom. The boat is really nice looking and there is no better place to send an ailing cracker. Mr Magoo was upside down in there for a long time before it was done. He should be able to get the wave out of the bottom and help you out. Good luck and I hope to meet you guys at some upcoming races next season.

I wish we could take credit for roll over tool, but that is all Bob Patterson and the Moody's idea. These guys are sharp. If you ever have the chance to look inside the magoo boat, it is really a piece of art. Their trailer alone would cost more than my boat, lol. They come up with ideas that i would never think of that make every difficult task a piece of cake.

I am confident that Kenny will get the P550 back on the water. I am glad it is finally in great hands and they will be able to make her run as she did in her glory days.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

you aren't kidding about Mr Magoo, it shows up at Kennys a few times each year and even though I have seen it since it was first painted and rigged, I always just take the time to lean over it and check out their craftsmanship, and ya the trailer is pretty dam cool.

[Sawtooth]

Holy Cow 74Spectra20 :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:, I don't know what to say. Do you have any fear of Kryptonite :rolleyes:. I have seen a few pics of your project in other threads but had no idea you were doing this. Your project is turning out fantastic, I have read the entire thread and you have played down your talent but I'm here to tell you, you got mad skills. I know your getting help/info from others but you have to have the talent to do the work and this thing is off the hook. It is really cool that you and your Dad have been able to work together on this and get along so well, I am sure it will be a great day when the two of you go on the madein voyage for this project. As others have said thanks for taking the time and sharing all the pics with us, that's a project in itself. Again congrats on the boat project and keep up the outstanding work, just think in the not to distant future you will be floating on the river and this will all be just a memeory :champagne:........a good one I hope:D

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Sawtooth, I have just been lucky to have some good friends help with this project, and as the old saying goes "Even a blind squirrel gets a nut every once in a while" and you are so right about be lucky to work with my Dad, he is the one that truly is a craftsman and I have been thankful for the tme to work with him. Thanks for the comments I appreciate them and they help me stay motivated. I am trying to hit the shop for a few hours today between coaching the 8yr old's and my 11's this evening.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Finished straightening the bottom, most of the work was in the outside strakes, had some serious dips in them. Bottom blocked with 24 and 3 coats of resin plus one a sanding resin coat. Hope to have it gel coated in two weeks. Doesn't look too pretty in the pictures but I am very happy with the way it came out.

[vdcruiser]

That looks great. Does the bottom have any rocker in it or is it straight?

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

No rocker from the fin back it is flat, I used an 8' level to check things and it's pretty straight. There is a slight cup from outside to keel, about a 1/16" we left that in.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Bottom and sides are ready to be gel coated and then I get to sand it again:champagne: The pictures don't look much different from the previous post but I have about 20 hours on the bottom with a growler and long block, I hit the bottom with 36 and then 80 grit. The bottom will hopefully get shot next week, I just picked up 5 gallons of gel coat, we will be doing the same process on the top of the boat and the inside.

[78 Continental]

Very cool build. Keep up the good Hard work. Can't wait to see it finished.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I finished making the cav plate templates and prop wash guard, blast quard what ever the heck you call it. I was fighting a bit with the plates trying to keep them on the bottom with out falling off while I measured etc. The Ken comes over and shows me how to do this... Some simple blocks glued to the transom with bondo and I have a platform, took about 20 minutes.
I have had an issue in my mind with the strut I used, since this was not built for a v-bottom (you can insert I did not want to spend the money here) the strut sits below the angle of the bottom of the boat and this will create a void, we were talking about just filling with an epoxy once it is all put together and then if I ever have to remove the strut just cut the epoxy out. When I finshed the templates last night I realized that I could just continue moving forward with the blast guard and make a two piece plate that would sandwich the strut and just bolt through the bottom. I just need to notch the bottom of the boat in front of the strut and I can start making a pattern.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Finished the strut cover (I gues that is what it would be called) now I am officially ready for gel coat. Hopefully this will be done next week and then paint the bottom by mid April. Also my rent at the shop will be going up as the neighborhood has gone upscale, they just slid a 21' schiada in next to me... complete rebuild from the stringers up, Mahogany floors and transom, will be beautiful once it gets finished.

[Sawtooth]

It's looking really good there boss, I look forward to seeing the gel coat go down. Do you have colors/design picked yet for the boat....I am sure it will be like the rest of your work, VERY NICE!

[vdcruiser]

Nice job on the blast plate/strut foot fairing thingy.:D. Actually nice job on all of it.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Thanks Sawtooth, basic colors will be a White base and then Blue, Grey, Silver... I won't know what the design is or what other colors end up on the boat until Kenny unwraps it, my guess is there will be an Orange, yellow or green 1/8" pinstripe some where. My Dad told me a long time ago "Just let him do what he wants"

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

The boat was Gel Coated today, looks great. Now they have me hitting it with 150 on a DA and then back to the block over the whole boat again. I may have some time this weekend so we could see color on the bottom by end of next week, it just depends on how motivated I stay:champagne:

[SPECTRALEN]

Dude, That thing is looking AWSOME! Keep up the great work.:thumbsup

[RiverDave]

You are a mad man!! :)

RD

[Flat Broke]

Just curious, how come Kenny doesnt run an air hardening agent like Prestec instead of covering with PVA? I trust and respect his experience/reputation, so I'm not second guessing, just genuinely curious.

From my limited experience, I've had more problems with soft spots with PVA than a prestec/gel final coat over 100% gel base. That being said, PVA is WAAAAAAAAY cheaper than Prestec.

Awesome Job. I'm going to be very jealous when you get this thing all gelled and right side up.

Chris

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Just curious, how come Kenny doesnt run an air hardening agent like Prestec instead of covering with PVA? I trust and respect his experience/reputation, so I'm not second guessing, just genuinely curious.

From my limited experience, I've had more problems with soft spots with PVA than a prestec/gel final coat over 100% gel base. That being said, PVA is WAAAAAAAAY cheaper than Prestec.

Awesome Job. I'm going to be very jealous when you get this thing all gelled and right side up.

Chris

They may use the PVA for cost and since this is only being used as a primer, most of it gets sanded off. Not sure I will ask when I see them tomorrow night. The PVA is a lot more fun too, if its thick enough you can peel it off like plastic wrap.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Had some time Friday afternoon and this weekend to get on the sanding. Hit the boat with a 8" growler and 80 grit, then to a 6" DA with 150. I guide coated the boat and then went at it with a long block with 150... I guided coated the whole thing again before I left this afternoon and I will block it once more and then paint the bottom. I still need to work the vertical edge on the strakes but I my fingers were to dam sore this afternoon to start on them.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

FINISHED SANDING!!!!! no pictures pretty much looks the same, just less the black guide coat. we will flip the boat back over next week and then paint the sides white then hang the boat and shoot the bottom color. We are painting the sides first because we are wrapping the bottom color up a couple of inches and putting a 1/4 inch white stripe down. Easier to tape off for the white stripe than to spary a 1/4 inch stripe.

[Flat Broke]

Freaking Awesome!!!!!!

I'm actually going back to the begining of you thread to see how far you cut your bunk stands down. I was driving home today and thought, "shit, I still haven't painted it, I might as well drop the boat down a little on the trailer :)

My wife's been off work for 3 weeks and I haven't done jack on my pile. Your focus amazes me.

Chris

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Chris, remember that if you drop your boat on the trailer you may run into clearence problems with the fenders. I used a reverse wheel with a lot of offset to get the boat between the fenders, but I am running a pretty wide fender. As far as focus, did you see whne I started this thing I bought the boat in 06.. I really am trying to free up the space at B&K as well, but I am probably bringing my Dad and Brothers 69 Sanger in as soon as I pull the Spectra out. Good thing Kenny likes me...at least for a while.

[Flat Broke]

Chris, remember that if you drop your boat on the trailer you may run into clearence problems with the fenders. I used a reverse wheel with a lot of offset to get the boat between the fenders, but I am running a pretty wide fender. As far as focus, did you see whne I started this thing I bought the boat in 06.. I really am trying to free up the space at B&K as well, but I am probably bringing my Dad and Brothers 69 Sanger in as soon as I pull the Spectra out. Good thing Kenny likes me...at least for a while.

Yeah, I thought about the offset issue. I need to take some measurements regardless, so that will be one of many. I don't want to talk about how long I've had my pile... The hardest part is behind me, but my commitment was pretty much nilch during this past winter, so hopefully I can make a big dent this summer before grad school starts back up in Aut/Sept.

When you settle on an interior guy, shoot me their info as that's one of the only large expenditures looming over this project.

Chris

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I am going to take it to Carlos at Premier Marine Interiors. He used to do all the DCB stuff and now has his own shop in Lake Elsinore. He was very helpful via e-mail and gave me a quote (ball park) on some pics I sent to him. Trying to have it to him by late May to give him plenty of time for an October pick up. Here is his e-mail charliekustomkovers@yahoo.com

[Flat Broke]

I am going to take it to Carlos at Premier Marine Interiors. He used to do all the DCB stuff and now has his own shop in Lake Elsinore. He was very helpful via e-mail and gave me a quote (ball park) on some pics I sent to him. Trying to have it to him by late May to give him plenty of time for an October pick up. Here is his e-mail charliekustomkovers@yahoo.com

That's the second referral I've got for him. The fact that he's moved up to Elsinore is a BIG help.

Thanks,
Chris

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

finished fitting my plates and blast guard, now back to the shop for some drilling and polishing... it's about time I get to polish something:champagne:

[Just Electric]

looking good man keep it up and keep us posted:thumbsup

[Racey]

lookin good!

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Hey Racey, that is a nice compliment coming from you, the stuff you guys are doing is georgous, Thanks

[vdcruiser]

Thats some really nice work on all of the plates. How does that one fit around the strut base, is it in 2 pcs ?

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Yes, there are two pieces around the strut, if you look at post 202 you can see me templates a little better, I have a lot of time with a file on these pieces, I could never do this for a living, I would go broke, I am so dam slow.
I have just been slammed for about a month with Work, Baseball, Softball etc... but soon the kids will be done with BBall and I know I will miss it, so it is a priority for me, and I am just thankful that work is good... so the Spectra is just waiting for me to come back.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

got the boat flipped back over on Saturday was able to get top deck blocked down and final resin coats on. We stripped the non skid and layed up a couple layers of matt several months back so the bulk of the work was done, just need to be blocked out. got the resin coats blocked down came out really nice, have a couple spots to finish and then starting to work on the inside.

[RiverDave]

I can't wait to see this boat when it's done.. :)

RD :champagne:

[Just Electric]

man this boat is gonna be sweet.:thumbsup

[Flat Broke]

Looking great!

Quick question, and this may have been addressed back when you posted pics of the old pink Spectra that got a color change. Are you going to do your color work in gel or paint? Things should move along pretty quick from here.

Chris

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Colors will be in paint, base colors will be in enamel single stage and graphics with be a base coat clear coat

[SPECTRALEN]

Looking real nice.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Had a few days in the past week and was able to get some work done. When we set the new strut we ended up with a pretty thin bottom so once the boat was up right the plan was to build up the bottom. I did this over 3 afternoons with 12 layers of matt, and we are sitting at just under 7/8 thick, the bottom was only thin where we recessed the strut a 5 x 14" spot, the patch is 18 by 32 so we shoud have no issue here. The different color is from using a glass slurry (like bondo) to get a smooth finish under the last layer of matt and cloth. I will have a strut brace as well running up to the stringers.

Getting ready to resin coat the floors so I can start blocking again:champagne: we will shoot the inside in gelcoat, as soon as I finish prep.

My brother in law finished the transom bearings, got to do a mock up to make sure we are ok prior to him finishig them, real happy with the way they came out.

[Flying_Lavey]

Damn! This is starting to look like it will be one of the nicest Spectras out there!!!

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Finished the last resin coat on the floors this afternoon, did the middle and transom on Saturday and between the outside and inside stringers this afternoon. Ready to start blocking again and then decide on colors:champagne:

[NAFLASH]

Looks good. I just did mine today

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

NAFLASH, do you have some pictures of your boat? Jet or Vdrive

[NAFLASH]

I can take a few. Its a jet.

[Just Electric]

man you dont mess around when you do your projects.looking good as usuall:thumbsup

[SPECTRALEN]

Looking very nice.

[RiverDave]

This rebuild is crazy.. It just keeps getting better everytime I open it.

RD

[spectra81]

The whole project is un believable. Definetly gives me some motivation to do something to my eyesore, BEAUTIFUL WORK.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Thanks guys, if she comes out clean I will be very happy. I was really tired of sanding the inside of that dam boat last week especially since 90% will be under floor boards... but this makes it real nice to wash down. I was pretty excited yesterday, talked with Ken and got a game plan for color on the inside, we will be doing a similar color scheme as the out side but with gel coat and the outside base color will be white and we are going to use black inside. So once I sand this dam thing again the entire inside of the boat (the portion I resin coated) will be shot in black gel coat then I get to sand that down and start laying out tape. The stringers and transom will be Blue and we are thinking of running two grey or silver stripes, similar to an SS stripe on a camaro, down the keel leaving a black stripe in between and running a 1/8 or 1/4 inch pin stripe in back as well just inside the grey stripes. We will continue the colors and wrap the back of teh boat with them, from the transom onto the tanks and on the back of the seat. Once it goes black we can play with color and tape. We will finish of the inside and then mask it all off and start shooting the boat:champagne: I almost don't want to go to the river next week...YA right I need to get a way.

[Sawtooth]

Your boat is really looking great, I have a question for you, when you say that you need to block sand this or that are you useing a board file by hand or a air sander or...... and what grit are you using to knock it all down. Keep up the awesome work, like others have said can't wait to see this with all the colors and rigging.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

Block Sanding: I am using a 1 inch block about 12 inches long and 2 inches wide for the majority of finish blocking, I have used an assortment of block sizes through the project and will use a 9" growler for the first pass. start with 36 grit and work up through 150. I have watched Kenny for years work a boat and I finally asked him why he uses the small block to finish up, he told me he learned the trick from a legend many years ago. He was working a glass job at Juniors shop and watched him work a Vett door for about 3 hours with this 1x2x12 block... I have a question for you sawtooth, I was looking at your cambell and WOW is it cool... but I had a question on gear boxes... are there 4 boxes in that boat???

[Sawtooth]

The Campbell is/was my dads, it has three v-drives in it. The two main gear box's are the standard Casale C500's and the third is what they call a "Z" drive, it's a small one like a 10* or 12* case but is 0*. The Z drive is used to reverse the rotation of the starboard motor to the C500 so the boat has counter rotating props with out having to have one of the motors run backwards. The transmissions are 2 speed power glide's with reverse. Thanks for the reply on the block sanding, I am not looking forward to doing this on my project but funds won't allow me to drop it off someplace:grumble:

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I thought I was going to reach a mile stone tonight, finishing sanding and ready to gel coat and in the booth. I finished preping the inside of the boat and was working on taking down the original gel coat, i am taking it almost all off using a 9" growler w/ 80 grit, was kicking but and looking great, got to the deck and I had little cracks showing up, looked like it was something in the mold, couldn't feel a crack just looked like one?? I was going to just blow it off but I just kept thinking about all the work we have done and then having these things transfer through. Took a grinder to them and they turned out to be airvoids in the glass from the original lay up. So glassed them up, will finish up tomorrow.

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I finished up on the final prep for gel coat Saturday. I rolled the boat out of my hole and washed it out inside ond out. I was really happy how good it looked wet, very straight should help with blocking the guide coat off the gel coat... more block sanding:thumbsup As I was washing the boat I wasn't happy with the cap on the transom, it looked really thin and even though we are putting a rub rail on it I just wasn't happy. While I was working the inside of the boat I had been hauling my 300 lbs over the transom and I felt a bit of flex as well. I believe the issue was due to originall capping the boat prior to working the transom. I had a pretty good bow in teh transom and I worked it out, a lot of grinding and a lot of glass work. As I worked the bow out I cut into the cap and it just got too thin. This ate at me Saturday night so right after Church on Sunday I went to the shop and ground the cap off the back of the boat. I took a 1/4 to 3/8 of material off and reglassed it, I layed up 4 layers of matt and went home. I hit the shop after work this evening and usd the grinder to get my top deck and transom roughed in, then blocked it all flat and followd up with blocking in the radius. I leaned on the combing rail at the transom and no flex... she is wrapped up at apart from hitting the transom with 80grit she is ready for the booth:champagne:

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

I am on the down hill side now... the boat is in the booth!!! Gel Coat the top deck either Thursday or Friday, finish up the inside next week, dark blue gel coat, sand and clear, then on to blocking the top deck and getting final paint and design on.

[SPECTRALEN]

Nice work!

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

In the back of my head I have been worried about running the Champion box with such low gears in it, I only have 4's in the box. I have a buddy with the same boat, same box, same gears and we will have similar power and he is just not happy with the top end. I have been thinking of swapping gears before we finish the boat but I don't have to do that. I just came across another box in Long Beach from a real nice guy, Lilrick who runs a K boat. He had a box with 10's and for my cruiser that will be great for now... only bummer is that I already polished the other box... A little grinding and this one will be just like new.

[Just Electric]

dang its comming out bitchen keep it up:thumbsup

[74 spectra20 v-drive]

My good buddy Mark over at B&K shot the gel coat for me!!!!! now I will mask the top deck off and get the inside ready to finish, once we have that done I mask the inside off and start blocking all the gel coat off that he just shot on.

[RiverDave]

aRe you polishing that v drive by hand?

RD

[CampbellCarl]

I dropped off the slightly damaged Howard Kruzer off at B&K yesterday and had a chance to see this Spectra and meet it's owner! Nice to meet you sir, and good luck with the project!

Carl