holley 9029 750 rebuild...

[ka0tyk]

http://www.brainbox.us/misc/IMG_20110220_185905.jpg

would it be okay to remove the electronic choke and the choke plate? also i have the following "trick kit"

http://www.holley.com/37-720.asp

any howto's or a video someone can point me to? im pretty good if i have something to follow... but theres a ton of parts in this damn kit.

[rivermobster]

Just take the choke cover and rotate it till the choke is wide open. Thats the easiest thing to do.

Holleys are pretty simple. You wont need all the parts in that kit. Take everything off and lay it out in order. Be carefull when tighting things back up, the threads will strip out easily if you use a little too much force!

Take your time, go slow, and tighten things up evently and slowly, just going a bit at a time.

:thumbsup

[obnoxious001]

http://www.brainbox.us/misc/IMG_20110220_185905.jpg

would it be okay to remove the electronic choke and the choke plate? also i have the following "trick kit"

http://www.holley.com/37-720.asp

any howto's or a video someone can point me to? im pretty good if i have something to follow... but theres a ton of parts in this damn kit.

Yes, if you are going to have it apart already, I would definitely ditch the choke.

The Holley carb is perhaps the simplest to work on, just keep track of primary and secondary ends of the carb so the correct metering plates and bowls go back on the same end they came off. I assume you should be able to find some helpful stuff online.

[rivermobster]

What engine is this goin on?? You might want to put a lighter spring on that secondary diaphram while you have it appart.

[ka0tyk]

What engine is this goin on?? You might want to put a lighter spring on that secondary diaphram while you have it appart.

basic 454. (for now)

[randyjet]

I got a brand new one of these for $195.00 its only used on the dyno to break in the cam and has only had race fuel run through it.

[rivermobster]

basic 454. (for now)

something you might wanna read...

http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Selecting%20A%20Carburetor.pdf

[racerden]

http://www.brainbox.us/misc/IMG_20110220_185905.jpg

would it be okay to remove the electronic choke and the choke plate? also i have the following "trick kit"

http://www.holley.com/37-720.asp

any howto's or a video someone can point me to? im pretty good if i have something to follow... but theres a ton of parts in this damn kit.Basically, this is a marine carb. That's not a bad thing however what is the application intended? I have built many of these for marine applications that have incorporated electic chokes and some that do not require.
I can help, just need to know the intended application & usage

Denny

[ka0tyk]

Basically, this is a marine carb. That's not a bad thing however what is the application intended? I have built many of these for marine applications that have incorporated electic chokes and some that do not require.
I can help, just need to know the intended application & usage

Denny

18' jetboat with a 454. nothing race, just a weekend cruiser for now.


got it somewhat disassembled, i REALLY want to clean up the butterflies inside, also the secondaries are a little hard to open and stay closed. do i just unscrew the 2 screws holding each one in and then the rod pulls out?

http://www.brainbox.us/misc/IMG_2718.JPG

also can i use these 2 gaskets? they're almost identical with the exception of the little lump at the top opening and then the center section. if they wont work i can always get a new one.

http://www.brainbox.us/misc/IMG_2720.JPG

any tips are GREATLY appreciated.

[rivermobster]

Do NOT remove the butterflies from the throttle shaft. You will never get em lined up properly again. Clean em right where they are.

The blue gasket on the left is for a mettering block that has a transfer tube in it. I dont see the transfer tube in your pile of parts, so you prolly wanna use the gasket on the right. Match em up closely with the gaskets you take off. It should be easy to figure it out doing that.

[ka0tyk]

cleaned up

http://www.brainbox.us/misc/IMG_2722.JPG

is there a way to lubricate the shafts, esp the secondary? it feels like theres sand or something in it, i had a original problem where they were getting stuck open and i had an idle of 2k rpms which was NOT fun at the launch ramp when you're not expecting it.

also how about the filters in the bowls? i have a HUGE fuel filter/seperator where the cutoff valves are, then a second filter at the electric fuel pump, then more filters at the carb? i

[rivermobster]

cleaned up

http://www.brainbox.us/misc/IMG_2722.JPG

is there a way to lubricate the shafts, esp the secondary? it feels like theres sand or something in it, i had a original problem where they were getting stuck open and i had an idle of 2k rpms which was NOT fun at the launch ramp when you're not expecting it.

also how about the filters in the bowls? i have a HUGE fuel filter/seperator where the cutoff valves are, then a second filter at the electric fuel pump, then more filters at the carb? i

If that shaft still feels rough after youve cleaned it all up, you have 2 choices. Replace that throttle plate with a new one, or buy randyjet's carb.

If it was me, looking at your pics, i think i'd buy randyjet's carb.

just my 2cents

[rivermobster]

Then again, looking closely at rj's pics, it looks like there is rust on his secondary plates as well. If it is, id pass, and find a new carb for your project.

A new 700cfm with vacume secondaries, or a 650cfm with mechanical secondaries, might be a much better choice for a stock engine.

[racerden]

18' jetboat with a 454. nothing race, just a weekend cruiser for now.


got it somewhat disassembled, i REALLY want to clean up the butterflies inside, also the secondaries are a little hard to open and stay closed. do i just unscrew the 2 screws holding each one in and then the rod pulls out?

http://www.brainbox.us/misc/IMG_2718.JPG

also can i use these 2 gaskets? they're almost identical with the exception of the little lump at the top opening and then the center section. if they wont work i can always get a new one.

http://www.brainbox.us/misc/IMG_2720.JPG

any tips are GREATLY appreciated. Joe's 100% correct. Don't attempt to remove the throttle shafts and what he said about the gaskets is right. On the choke, it's a matter of preference. Many pleasure applications utilize them (and they do work), most hi-perfs don't. Biggest Pro is they are handy in the earlier parts of the season where ambients and water temps are down. Biggest Con is air flow restriction at WOT. You choose.

[ka0tyk]

Joe's 100% correct. Don't attempt to remove the throttle shafts and what he said about the gaskets is right. On the choke, it's a matter of preference. Many pleasure applications utilize them (and they do work), most hi-perfs don't. Biggest Pro is they are handy in the earlier parts of the season where ambients and water temps are down. Biggest Con is air flow restriction at WOT. You choose.

on a few runs so far ive had no problems with cold starts. sure i have to put a TINY amount of pressure on the pedal to start it up but after that it sits back down and idles at about 800rpms right now.

my biggest problem was that in about 35 minutes i went thru 20 gallons of fuel doing about 2-4k. ran out of gas before i could even get to the fuel dock in the marina and had to paddle. also noticed some black on the transom.

im guessing i just need to make sure the fuel pressure is around 6-7psi (right now its around 8, should i get a regulator?), float levels are good, and the gas is BARELY trickling out of the inspection hole? also how do i go about selecting a power valve? the one that was in there was a 7.5, the one in my rebuild kit is a 6.5. again just a bone stock 454 with a torker intake manifold and logs. will the 6.5 be fine and then ill get a manifold vacuum reading and then drop the bowls off again if i need to change it?

[rivermobster]

on a few runs so far ive had no problems with cold starts. sure i have to put a TINY amount of pressure on the pedal to start it up but after that it sits back down and idles at about 800rpms right now.

my biggest problem was that in about 35 minutes i went thru 20 gallons of fuel doing about 2-4k. ran out of gas before i could even get to the fuel dock in the marina and had to paddle. also noticed some black on the transom.

im guessing i just need to make sure the fuel pressure is around 6-7psi (right now its around 8, should i get a regulator?), float levels are good, and the gas is BARELY trickling out of the inspection hole? also how do i go about selecting a power valve? the one that was in there was a 7.5, the one in my rebuild kit is a 6.5. again just a bone stock 454 with a torker intake manifold and logs. will the 6.5 be fine and then ill get a manifold vacuum reading and then drop the bowls off again if i need to change it?

your MAIN problem is that carb is way too big, and running way too rich for a bone stock motor. get a 650cfm carb, and youll be a whole lot happier camper!

on a boat, your foot is always in the throttle, so id go with a power valve with a much higher rating. if you go down (less vacume to open), its gonna run even richer than it does now. (and thats not gonna help out with your fuel consumption problem one bit).

[racerden]

,on a few runs so far ive had no problems with cold starts. sure i have to put a TINY amount of pressure on the pedal to start it up but after that it sits back down and idles at about 800rpms right now.

my biggest problem was that in about 35 minutes i went thru 20 gallons of fuel doing about 2-4k. ran out of gas before i could even get to the fuel dock in the marina and had to paddle. also noticed some black on the transom.

im guessing i just need to make sure the fuel pressure is around 6-7psi (right now its around 8, should i get a regulator?), float levels are good, and the gas is BARELY trickling out of the inspection hole? also how do i go about selecting a power valve? the one that was in there was a 7.5, the one in my rebuild kit is a 6.5. again just a bone stock 454 with a torker intake manifold and logs. will the 6.5 be fine and then ill get a manifold vacuum reading and then drop the bowls off again if i need to change it?Dissagree w/Joe (a bit). A bigger CFM doesn't necessarly dictate more fuel usage, it dictates a MAJOR tuning challenge.. So that being said, go back to the basics brother; pull some plugs and read the color. If they look dishwater blonde after a WFO run w/no idling, that's what you live with. As for PV's do some research and see what 6.5/4.5/7.5 really means. The singlemost valuable tool many folks don't have on their gage stack is a vacuum gage. I have tuned scores of engines/applications that incorporate PV's including my own race boat. So again, the # represented on the PV means it will OPEN at that manifold vacuum number, or darn close to. Very basically, this usually represents a 6-7 jet # change depending on the PVCR (power valve restriction) which is built into the metering block. So if you are running #80's, when the PV opens you will have #86-87's or damn close to which is huge. The lower the PV# the later it will open. Being a jet boat, you'll need all the fuel you can effectively manage. While you are at it, what's you total ignition timimg advance at? Still lost, let a pro tune it for you, it's worth the dough.
G'luk, over 'n out.
DV

[wrighton]

Good Carb info. I know after time I got tired of trying to keep the holley clean and rust/corrosion free. Any maintenance measures to keep lets say rust off of the butter fly plates, bodies clean, use of products, elbow grease, ect.

[rivermobster]

,Dissagree w/Joe (a bit). A bigger CFM doesn't necessarly dictate more fuel usage, it dictates a MAJOR tuning challenge.. So that being said, go back to the basics brother; pull some plugs and read the color. If they look dishwater blonde after a WFO run w/no idling, that's what you live with. As for PV's do some research and see what 6.5/4.5/7.5 really means. The singlemost valuable tool many folks don't have on their gage stack is a vacuum gage. I have tuned scores of engines/applications that incorporate PV's including my own race boat. So again, the # represented on the PV means it will OPEN at that manifold vacuum number, or darn close to. Very basically, this usually represents a 6-7 jet # change depending on the PVCR (power valve restriction) which is built into the metering block. So if you are running #80's, when the PV opens you will have #86-87's or damn close to which is huge. The lower the PV# the later it will open. Being a jet boat, you'll need all the fuel you can effectively manage. While you are at it, what's you total ignition timimg advance at? Still lost, let a pro tune it for you, it's worth the dough.
G'luk, over 'n out.
DV


Excelent info. :thumbsup

But in this situation, with a carb thats pretty much shot, and to avoid a major tuning nightmare, a new smaller cfm carb would just solve a ton of problems! A 650 would be a blot on, turn key and drive away situation.

I'm all bout taking the easy way out. Workin smart, and not hard, seems to save a few dollars in the long run as well. :D

[racerden]

Excelent info. :thumbsup

But in this situation, with a carb thats pretty much shot, and to avoid a major tuning nightmare, a new smaller cfm carb would just solve a ton of problems! A 650 would be a blot on, turn key and drive away situation.

I'm all bout taking the easy way out. Workin smart, and not hard, seems to save a few dollars in the long run as well. :D

Speaking of replacement carb's I still have a clients pair of Holley HP Keith Dorton Editions that are p-r-i-m-o for sale cheap. They are designed for a NA engine and cannot be referenced due to their advanced metering block techno. Spread the word, they are very bitchin...and will go cheap. $750 takes 'em both (un-tailored). Deal City

[ka0tyk]

Excelent info. :thumbsup

But in this situation, with a carb thats pretty much shot, and to avoid a major tuning nightmare, a new smaller cfm carb would just solve a ton of problems! A 650 would be a blot on, turn key and drive away situation.

I'm all bout taking the easy way out. Workin smart, and not hard, seems to save a few dollars in the long run as well. :D

and now to find a carb... :drnkfr

i really appreciate all the info guys.

[LICKHERVDRIVE]

If that shaft still feels rough after youve cleaned it all up, you have 2 choices. Replace that throttle plate with a new one, or buy randyjet's carb.

If it was me, looking at your pics, i think i'd buy randyjet's carb.

just my 2centsIf you know and have the time to change the shaft bushings you can. removing the flys are not that bad. i did it when i had the shafts cromed. just remove them slowly and you should be fine.

[ka0tyk]

picked up a 650 today. hopefully we will see how she runs with it.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/185951_10150124457504833_500759832_6538508_7693845 _n.jpg