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Excellent excellent stuff Dave. I raced there thru it all, thanks Dave!

Bad and sad deal indeed

You are right Barry, Bergeron's the last game in town. FYI, Kent did supply him with shafts/wedge blanks etc before Barber closed 197

Sure fire way to count out operator error is to relieve the valve spring pressures on all cylinders, hand crank it using a breaker bar until the the leak tester produces the least amount of leakage at or around TDC. It's a PITA but accuracy is highly enhanced not to mention the cylinder...

What make(s) is it?

As for the V-Drive no coatings, they look good however they're great at retaining heat. Either polish away (ugg) of leave it cast. Plates get lot's of friction and sunlight exposure, anodize works well (for awhile) coatings like porcelain (i/e headers etc) and others has been proven more...

The D21 shaft log and rudder log is positively the best. I finally replaced the shaft log after years & countless hours of operation (front bearing failure) that was caused by my V-drive output shaft wear/wobble. Darren does make a service kit however it's a no brainer t replace the unit...

I'm in

Historically if you are going from closed chambers you'll loose some compression due to the open chamber configuration and gain power on the big end. But that's just a simple equation from experience on a NA engine. Like the others say, there's a ton more to factor in.

72" blunt end key way to end of taper key way BFN shaft. Common length for 20-21' $ 400 to the first taker. SoCal located, pickup only. 323.864.5419..Denny

wasthatguy's 100% correct

Texasjet hit the nail on zee head; block drains flat get it done not only for the heads but just 'bout everything else that will alkali up (manifolds, intercoolers, lines etc). Been doing it for years with very positive results. Hint- Use SS line extensions from the block, bushing up the OEM NPT...

I agree with Barry. Some condensation hanging around the back sides of the valve covers especially with engines that do run cool and don't get OT up often (200F+) can be normal especially in non NA engines. I wouldn't pass it off as condensation either. 197

What they are probably talking about is the carb bowls frosting up. Older Race Aero carb bowls were plumbed with inlets/outlets where some ran engine oil lines to them. Thinking was to either heat the mixtures before entering the TC's or use it as a sort of remote oil cooler. Either way it's not...

Been using the Summit G1667a (100A) for years. Good quality, chrome, won't break the bank. Best of all it's just a (1) wire hook-up (Large 12+V). It energizes with RPM over 1-1,200. Being in a V-drive race boat and semi-close to the bilge (water), when it gives up I don't bother rebuilding it...

Anyone hears when/if there will be a memorial please post it, thanks all. Denny

What a true 'Good Guy'. We'll miss ya Charlie!

By far the most effective is to utilize the metering plate especially if your 750 already has a side port (as a guide). This way you can easily drill and tap a NPT thread and use AN fittings etc. Be sure to block off the port under the throttle plate; best practice is to use a small set screw...

If you thinks that's bad, try it on a TT Race Aero

Did some biz w/Drew Casale and was informed his dad Andy had suffered a heart attack. A few stints were installed and looks to be a successful procedure. Those of you who know this iconic family may want to shoot him an atta-boy email: [email protected]