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From the Escalade/Denali debacle

Snprhed

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So I feel comfortable that it is probably operating in normal parameters. (Running temp)

So how do you increase cooling capacity. I'm assuming the big three would be bigger radiator, higher thermostat (keeps it in the radiator longer), and a bigger water pump. Of course I could be wrong about all of those.

I want better cooling capacity because of this: I plan on getting a bigger boat. 3-6 feet longer than current. So I plan on adding some HP. Maybe 50-75, or maybe 100.

How would you add horsepower and why that that route. I plan on doing a cold air intake and a programmer. I think that may get me 30-50hp. I don't plan on breaking into the motor either.
 

Bigbore500r

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So I feel comfortable that it is probably operating in normal parameters. (Running temp)

So how do you increase cooling capacity. I'm assuming the big three would be bigger radiator, higher thermostat (keeps it in the radiator longer), and a bigger water pump. Of course I could be wrong about all of those.

I want better cooling capacity because of this: I plan on getting a bigger boat. 3-6 feet longer than current. So I plan on adding some HP. Maybe 50-75, or maybe 100.

How would you add horsepower and why that that route. I plan on doing a cold air intake and a programmer. I think that may get me 30-50hp. I don't plan on breaking into the motor either.

You will not get 30-50hp rwhp from a CAI and handheld programmer. You can pick up that amount however, with a CAI, long-tube 1 3/4" headers, and a custom tune. Do not buy "shorty" headers, they do absolutely nothing for power. The stock manifolds flow as well as a shorty header.

As far as the cooling system, the first thing I would do is see what the temperature really is when towing. The factory gauge is not accurate and reads hotter than actual water temp in these trucks. My duramax say 210 when it is running 185. You can have somebody with tuning / scanning software (Hp tuners, EFI live, etc) plug in and read the actual water temp while you are under load / towing, you may not even have an issue! I know when my duramax gets up to 5/8 or a hair more on the gauge, it is still no more than 205/210 max temp, even though the gauge appears to read it as 225-230ish.

The stock water pump is a great pump, there really is not an upgrade worth pursuing in this department. Changing the thermostat is not going to help either. A higher one will just keep the motor hotter when not under load, and a lower thermostat will not matter as when it is under load, its going to get to its operating temp its at now anyways. You could always find a bigger radiator, but the one in there now is quite large. I would check to make sure that both fans are running 100% when the temps are up.

The best thing you can do for a "gasser" truck (non diesel) is gear it for towing. If you have the stock 3.73 gears, and have thrown big wheels / tires or much larger diameter tires / wheels on the thing, it is going to take alot of the towing power away and make the truck a dog. That same 6.0 motor you have goes into the HD trucks and is rated to tow 10k, but those trucks come with short tires and 4.10 gears.

If you really want to add some power, these motors respond VERY well to mild camshaft swaps. You can easily gain 60rwhp over stock with a very mild towing grind cam, headers, tune and cold air intake.

PM me if you want, i can refer you to a good tuner. I play with these late model GM vehicles alot :thumbsup
 

Sleek-Jet

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In the last thread you mentioned 37 inch tires. I'd have it re-geared to something equivalent to 3.73 in stock form before dropping a dime in engine work.
 

Bigbore500r

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In the last thread you mentioned 37 inch tires. I'd have it re-geared to something equivalent to 3.73 in stock form before dropping a dime in engine work.

I didnt read this, but did mention that in my post above! If it does have 37" tires and stock gears, it will be an absolute dog. It would need 4.88's to get where it needs to be. 4.56 at a minimum but it could use the extra gear to help with towing
 

Snprhed

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In the last thread you mentioned 37 inch tires. I'd have it re-geared to something equivalent to 3.73 in stock form before dropping a dime in engine work.

Not me. My escalade is completely stock
 

Snprhed

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But if I went with 4:11 that would probably still alleviate my heating up and feel like I gained horsepower when pulling.
 

Snprhed

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I am curious how many mpg I'd lose going to 4:11
 

pronstar

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I would put a bigger radiator. And see if you have the towing-package rear gear ratio, and swap to it if you don't. Leave the rest stock.

Things like aftermarket CAI - if it even provides gains, which many don't - are all at WOT and elevated rpm. At anything other that WOT, the throttle plate is the restriction.
 

Snprhed

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So how would I tell if I have a towing package?
 

pronstar

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So how would I tell if I have a towing package?

Window sticker if u have it.
Did your truck come with a tow hitch receiver and 7 pin plug? If so then it likely has the tow package.
 

Crazyhippy

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Add / upgrade if existing the oil cooler and tranny cooler before worrying about anything else.
 

Bigbore500r

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Heres what I would do.

The motor you have is capable of pulling quite a bit, but it is very restricted in stock form.

-Swap rear end to 4.10 (about $600)

-Add tru-cool 40k GVWR trans cooler ($100)

-Cold air intake and tune. If you dont mind the nuisance of having to "backdoor smog" the vehicle, do long tube headers also. You will need a tune anyways once switching the gears. You should be running 91 octane minimum as it is now, due to that motor having 10.25:1 compression (LQ9). The CAI and tune will NET you 25rwhp alone, and the headers will make the total gain closer to 45rwhp. Contrary to what was posted it WILL give you gains in the powerband below redline and WOT. Especially the headers, it will gain quite a bit actually. Do not buy a "handheld" tuner, get an actual tuner to log and tune the vehicle. If you are interested I can point you in the right direction, PM me.
 
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