Did the Cut / Buff deal to our boat

Still looking good for 30 year old gelcoat. I just wet sanded with 3000 & buffed it out, took about 4 hours. Now onto the trailer & interior .

Going to attempt this in the next few weeks

I need to do this on the deck of my boat, just scared to F my own deal up!

Bigbore500r said:

I need to do this on the deck of my boat, just scared to F my own deal up!

Click to expand...

X2

Bigbore500r said:

I need to do this on the deck of my boat, just scared to F my own deal up!

Click to expand...

same here

Looks great! A lot of work but very rewarding to essentially have a new boat. Now plenty of wax to keep it looking that way.

Came out great :thumbsup, I as well need to do this to the top deck of mine.

How did you use the 3000 grit? Sanding block?
I'm scared to do it.

Thanks Guys!

was thatguy said:

How did you use the 3000 grit? Sanding block?
I'm scared to do it.

Click to expand...

O'reilly's sells 3000 on a thin foam pad, wet sanding with it feels like a wet sponge. I could probably sand in one spot for an hr without breaking through the gel. Think you're more likely to get in trouble with a buffing wheel. 3000 grit requires little buffing though.

was thatguy said:

How did you use the 3000 grit? Sanding block?
I'm scared to do it.

Click to expand...

No sanding block. I had a guy who used to work for the owner of Ultra for a long time do mine. He told me fiberglass is not perfectly flat in any area and he said you should never use a block. It could cause wear issues with graphics and other areas. He also said to only use 3M products. It kinda sucked as I bought a ton of other stuff brand name paper and compound and he lectured me on how it was all shit.

He's located in central cal now and really cheap. If you line up a few boats, I could have him come up.

I willing to be in the line up..

Sack up man. Color sanding gel is a piece of cake, it's nothing like color sanding an automotive paint job. Gel coat is much thicker. The key is using good quality paper and compounds and taking your time while being patient. Before putting sand paper on the gel make dam sure you know how your going to keep water / lubrication on the gel coat while you sand. I use a large squirt bottle and start with 2K paper. 3M products, no cheap crap from the local grocery store or automotive chain parts store. Go to an automotive paint supply shop to get your goodies. Wesco Auto Paint is my go to store. I'm sure stores like this are a dime a dozen in So Cal. Here's a link to Wesco for reference. http://www.wescopbe.com/about_wesco.htm

Take your time color sanding, wipe clean with a terry cloth rag after a couple of linear sanding strokes. The wipe should leave the surface dry. It shouldn't take many rounds of linear sanding, then swipes of the cloth to see that that the oxidization / scratches are gone. Move all around the boat doing this. Don't hit areas that don't need it. If you notice a clear color difference in base white colors ( like I did when I colored sanded my 25 Eliminator XP) lightly sand the entire deck, dash included. Remember, every place you hit with sand paper will need to be buffed out with a good buffer and multiple compounds. It's a lot of work to get right, that's why if you have the time you should do it yourself. 2K wet sanding paper buffs out quickly with compound. If your using 3K paper your wasting your time, a buffer and compound will knock it out quicker. After wet sanding start use this compound and wool buffing pads.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...Finesse-it-Polish?N=7581719+3294229088&rt=rud
Make sure you have a high quality variable speed buffer. Should cost at least 100.00 plus several buffing wheels. I use a Bosche unit. Be gentle with this compound. Tape and protect all vinyl, this stuff will stick and it will not look the same years alter, as is with most products.

Follow this compound with a high quality machine glaze ( Mothers or 3M) then a high quality wax. Use different buffing wheels for each.

It just takes time and be awareness, don't sand / buff edges, keep the buffing wheels clean / wash after using. Try and stick with 3M products for the heavy lifting, Mothers or other name brands work well after the heavy work is done.

Take your time, it will turn out great.