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79 Tahiti project

Cgrohe223

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Not so happy once I pulled the floor, left over wood was under the floor that was still wet and to top it off few of the stringers are brittle... Not such a good start to the boat image.jpg
 

CampbellCarl

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Not so happy once I pulled the floor, left over wood was under the floor that was still wet and to top it off few of the stringers are brittle... Not such a good start to the boat View attachment 422054


If you start into the stringers, make SURE that the boat is cradled well on the trailer. Look for any gaps between the bottom and the trailer bunks. Shim and/or adjust the bunks so that it supports the bottom before any stringer surgery is attempted.

The stringers hold the hull shape so without them, you'll need the trailer bunks or a cradle (if you pull the boat off the trailer) to hold the hulls shape when it's stringer less.
 

PVHCA

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Anyone heard from Kay0tyk lately? Was wanting to get in contact with him for his knowledge in this. I'll PM him and see.

Cody's a tad miffed but this crap will just drive him more to get it done.
 

dread Pirate

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Part it out and start with a better hull. We've all made mistakes. The key is learning when to move on and just take the hit.
 

Jimmy

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Not so happy once I pulled the floor, left over wood was under the floor that was still wet and to top it off few of the stringers are brittle... Not such a good start to the boat View attachment 422054
Good to see someone else is going through my pain [emoji28]
Keen to see how you go [emoji106]
 

Cgrohe223

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It doesn't look as bad in this pic as it does in the first one. The stringers are rotted?

See the stringer by the shovel that isn't there, I was curious and cut the glass away and I literally kicked it and it fell apart but it some sections it's decent. But after I get the floor cleaned up I'll take the motor out before I pull the stringers.
 

Moneypit

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DO NOT run the boat with that airfilter... The foam filter medium is FLAMMABLE... I know of two that were thrown in Lake Piru on fire....
Other than that, restoring the stringers is a huge job. Don't forget the bottom must be absolutely clean, that alone is a weeks work.... AND, a boat is never the same as it once was no matter how carefully the bottom is supported during the work.... I'm afraid I'm with the "cut your losses and move on crowd".....
Ray
 

Cgrohe223

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DO NOT run the boat with that airfilter... The foam filter medium is FLAMMABLE... I know of two that were thrown in Lake Piru on fire....
Other than that, restoring the stringers is a huge job. Don't forget the bottom must be absolutely clean, that alone is a weeks work.... AND, a boat is never the same as it once was no matter how carefully the bottom is supported during the work.... I'm afraid I'm with the "cut your losses and move on crowd".....
Ray

Not going to run that filter it was just laying in the boat so I used it to cover the carb, I'm not in a rush though so I'll be sure to take my time doing it.
 

Cgrohe223

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Finally got all of it out, very front was a pain... Now comes the motor and what not, just need to find a friend with a motor hoist. Does anyone know the easiest way to get the excess resin that was around the corners of the stringers off because I don't want to hit the hull.
image.jpg image.jpg
 

Motoxxxloak

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Finally got all of it out, very front was a pain... Now comes the motor and what not, just need to find a friend with a motor hoist. Does anyone know the easiest way to get the excess resin that was around the corners of the stringers off because I don't want to hit the hull.
View attachment 422936 View attachment 422937

I got a hoist homie. Used it to pull my motor out.
 

nrbr

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You are about to become very familiar with a grinder and sander lol. My spectra was just as bad if not worse just a bit of time and money is all!!
 

Jimmy

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You are about to become very familiar with a grinder and sander lol. My spectra was just as bad if not worse just a bit of time and money is all!!
Best thing I found was a flapper disc that was made for grinding concrete.
One disc lasted me the whole job.
From memory it was ~40 grit.
Vacuum regularly also helped reduce dust.
I went 150mm either side of me stringers to get into good fiberglass for when u start laying up the new stuff

Good luck with the itch 😌
 

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Cgrohe223

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You are about to become very familiar with a grinder and sander lol. My spectra was just as bad if not worse just a bit of time and money is all!!

All I've been using so far haha but it already feels like it's come a long ways.
 

Cgrohe223

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Best thing I found was a flapper disc that was made for grinding concrete.
One disc lasted me the whole job.
From memory it was ~40 grit.
Vacuum regularly also helped reduce dust.
I went 150mm either side of me stringers to get into good fiberglass for when u start laying up the new stuff

Good luck with the itch 

Ah I think I know what your talking about I'll look into that, but the vacuum is definitely my friend when it has come down to this job.
 

dread Pirate

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Tip for dealing with the fiberglass itch. Take a cold shower 1st. As cold as you can stand. Cold water will close your pores so more glass doesn't get embedded in your skin. Then switch to hot and scrub again. Ideally your pores will open and you can wash the rest, or most, of it off.

Have fun. :thumbup:
 

Cgrohe223

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Tip for dealing with the fiberglass itch. Take a cold shower 1st. As cold as you can stand. Cold water will close your pores so more glass doesn't get embedded in your skin. Then switch to hot and scrub again. Ideally your pores will open and you can wash the rest, or most, of it off.

Have fun. :thumbup:

Tried last night I still feel it all over haha oh well
 

Nacimientobound

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Finally got all of it out, very front was a pain... Now comes the motor and what not, just need to find a friend with a motor hoist. Does anyone know the easiest way to get the excess resin that was around the corners of the stringers off because I don't want to hit the hull.
View attachment 422936 View attachment 422937

What about using a dremel or die grinder to grind out the excess resin?
 

Jimmy

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Does anyone know the easiest way to get the excess resin that was around the corners of the stringers off because I don't want to hit the hull.
Weapons of choice
Jigsaw (to get the bulk of it)
5inch grinder (with a ultra thin disc, run along the bottom edges either side)
Hammer n chisel out as much as possible.
Tidy up with cement disc on the grinder.
 

Cgrohe223

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I don't think anyone has mentioned it, but since you're doing all this work, cut out the fiberglass tanks.

attachment.php

Ya i am taking them out I was just trying to get the floor taken care of first, they do look like fiberglass cause the guy covered them but they are metal.

What about using a dremel or die grinder to grind out the excess resin?

I think a dremel is too small but a couple other people mentioned some ideas as well, I have a grinder I'm going to try that should take some material off easily but safely.
 

Cgrohe223

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Weapons of choice
Jigsaw (to get the bulk of it)
5inch grinder (with a ultra thin disc, run along the bottom edges either side)
Hammer n chisel out as much as possible.
Tidy up with cement disc on the grinder.

Exactly what I'm going with besides the jigsaw due to me not having one
 

Jimmy

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Exactly what I'm going with besides the jigsaw due to me not having one
It's a prick of a job. Just persevere man.
Once ya start Fiberglassing everything's gotta be spotless so get as much out now as possible.

If ya looking at redoing ya transom invest in a jigsaw come in real handy.
 

Cgrohe223

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It's a prick of a job. Just persevere man.
Once ya start Fiberglassing everything's gotta be spotless so get as much out now as possible.

If ya looking at redoing ya transom invest in a jigsaw come in real handy.

I believe I am going to do that as well, I was looking at the wood and it is soft and might as well just do it while everything is out.
 

Jimmy

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Check these 2 guys channels out.


 
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boatdoc55

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Nothing a gimble bearing , bellows and U/J crosses won't fix.
 

Cgrohe223

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Keeps getting better and better the bell housing broke when the u joint decided to grenade, so I need to find one somewhere. And need to find the tool to take it off.
 

Jimmy

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Just a 1/2 inch Allen key will get those hinge pins out.
 

coolchange

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Baby powder. Yep. And as said cold shower to keep the pores closed. Put the powder on before you start. It fills the pores and also seems to keep the glass from sticking.
 

Cgrohe223

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So I found these used ones on eBay just need to make sure that's correct for the drive? image.jpg
 

Cgrohe223

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Those old drives are me. Let me know if you need anything or any help with it. Put a impeller in it second thing, check the lube first. Then we're going to get into the rubber and shift cable on the transom plate.

What drive did you say this was? I'm looking into parts just want to make sure I don't get the wrong year I'm assuming alpha 1 and the years between 1972 - 1990?
 

DeltaSigBoater

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What drive did you say this was? I'm looking into parts just want to make sure I don't get the wrong year I'm assuming alpha 1 and the years between 1972 - 1990?

From 1967 to 1985 MC-1 Drives were referred to as the "MerCruiser 120, 140, 165, 228, or 260" drives, after the engine horsepower which they were coupled to.

The there was a major external design change in 1983, this design now called the 1-R would become the Alpha 1 Generation 1 (1986-1990), but were still refferred to as "MerCruiser ###" drive.

So I found these used ones on eBay just need to make sure that's correct for the drive? View attachment 423103

Those will work!
 

Cgrohe223

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From 1967 to 1985 MC-1 Drives were referred to as the "MerCruiser 120, 140, 165, 228, or 260" drives, after the engine horsepower which they were coupled to.

The there was a major external design change in 1983, this design now called the 1-R would become the Alpha 1 Generation 1 (1986-1990), but were still refferred to as "MerCruiser ###" drive.



Those will work!

Alright cause I have two different drives, the one that came off the boat is older it has a hook on the top and the other one is flat... Both have no stickers on them but I'm sure they have part numbers somewhere
 

DeltaSigBoater

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Alright cause I have two different drives, the one that came off the boat is older it has a hook on the top and the other one is flat... Both have no stickers on them but I'm sure they have part numbers somewhere

The one with the hook at the top is a MC-1

The other is either a 1-R, 1-MR or Alpha 1 :champagne:

Can you post a pic of the other drive?
 

DeltaSigBoater

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Here's the other drive. View attachment 423186

Hard to tell what model it is, however providing all parts are original, 1-MR drives have an "A" stamped on the prop shaft, 1-Rs do not. No matter though both including the A1, will bolt right up.



Don't know what you're planning for the exhaust, but if you want to run thru-hull, and permanently bypass the drive via the Y-Pipe you'll need a Block Off Plate.

Personally I'd find a used silent-choise system, which gives you the best of both worlds.



Never seen a power-steering pump mounted low like that, but if it works can't see changing it.

Get a remote oil filter, and install a drail line on the bottom of the pan, that'll fit out the drain plug hole.

The only thing I'd change on the motor & drive is the raw water pump... I always get shit for this but I hate how the impeller in in the drive, and changing it is a bitch. If I ever buy another boat w/ an Alpha, I'm taking the impeller out of the drive, and installing a crank-driven water pump. Change the impeller, remove 4-6 screws from inside the boat.
 
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