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Curbless shower???

Rickybobby

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I want to redo a shower in the house and make it curbless. I have a concrete floor/slab and want to cut it down maybe an 3/4 of inch to make the slope to the drain. What say the contractors here ?? The entire bathroom and shower would be covered in tile once the walls and floor are prepped.
 

NicPaus

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You will need more than 3/4" slope. I did one for wheel chair access where the whole bathroom floor sloped to the drain. Just finished one yesterday with a low 3" curb for easy access with 3 grab handles and a bench.
 

Rickybobby

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Thanks Nic

Any issues cutting the slab and slopping it ??? I want the clean look of curbless entry.
 

NicPaus

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You can remove existing slab and then dig down so the new slab is same thickness and has proper slope. I would go for 1" for each foot in shower area. Tile wainscote in rest of bathroom. Not sure if if I even took pictures of that job. forgot to get final pics yesterday as well.
 

Rickybobby

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Sorry for the DA questions. The slab appears to be about 3 1/2 inches in this area. I was initially thinking of cutting only 3/4 to an 1 inch out of the slab to make the slope. Would it be better to cut the entire section out and replace with new concrete sloped to the proper dimension???
 

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NicPaus

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It will be easier to remove and re-pour with proper consistent slope. Remove some dirt below concrete removed to get better slope to drain.
 

Rickybobby

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Ok, got it thanks for the reply, Next DA question. Once removed and replaced with new concrete, does the new concrete require anything to seal it from the water in preparation for the tile thinset ???
 

Drew

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Shoot 1x something to the floor as a under mud threshold. Wrap shower with vinyl pan. I'm a plumbing and heating contractor. We do it all the time. Good luck. It's not hard to do
 

NicPaus

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Not sure what tool you planned to use to plane down the concrete a consistent 3/4" ? A chipper hammer would have to be floated over and faster to just bust it out and pour and slope as needed.
 

NicPaus

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Ok, got it thanks for the reply, Next DA question. Once removed and replaced with new concrete, does the new concrete require anything to seal it from the water in preparation for the tile thinset ???

Yes.
 

Drew

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No need to take old concrete out. Just build your mud base up for entire bathroom and pitch down in the shower like I said with a vinyl pan. If you don't like the height deference between the bathroom and outside the bathroom use a Hollywood saddle. ( tapered saddle)
 

Rickybobby

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Area is not that big, was thinking about using a concrete blade on a saw, cutting strips, chip it out. Of course getting the proper slope to the drain in the process. Might be easier to just remove and lay in new??? I wasn't sure it was ok to cut/trim on the slab.

Sorry Drew, need the regular guy version. 1x ?? under mud threshold ??? vinyl pan ???
 

Drew

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Area is not that big, was thinking about using a concrete blade on a saw, cutting strips, chip it out. Of course getting the proper slope to the drain in the process. Might be easier to just remove and lay in new??? I wasn't sure it was ok to cut/trim on the slab.

Sorry Drew, need the regular guy version. 1x ?? under mud threshold ??? vinyl pan ???

Just rip a 2x4 down to a 1"X1" piece and shoot it the the concrete floor where the old threshold was. Don't know if you guys use vinyl shower liners or not out there. That's what we use here. After you put the liner in hooked up to the drain assemble mud the entire floor in. At least 3/4" thick. Only pitch the mud job to the drain after the under mud threshold .
 

Rickybobby

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Going for something like this, not sure how a vinyl pan would work ??? Tiles might be smaller in my application and the liner drain might be in the middle of the shower (i.e. only two slopes to deal with ??)
 

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NicPaus

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That drain will be installed in a different way than a typical center mount, You have a link to the drain? Might have to jack hammer either way and relocate your drain pipe to shower threshold, That looks nice never installed one.
 

Drew

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Going for something like this, not sure how a vinyl pan would work ??? Tiles might be smaller in my application and the liner drain might be in the middle of the shower (i.e. only two slopes to deal with ??)

Not a problem. Most trough drains I have done have a 2" adapt. That hooks up with standard tile strainer ..pvc...2"" thread. I hooks up to the trap in the floor . Plenty of room. Trough drains are not cheap. Last ones I did I had to customize after paying 900 balloons for them each. It's a cool look but also a pain in the ass for mantinece. Look up kohler. They make something similar but only about 12" long. Much cheaper
 

Rickybobby

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tkrrox
That is exactly the look I am going for while trying to get the liner drain in there as well. Apparently, in Europe, "wet rooms" are very common ??? This bathroom is very small, couldn't I just do a "vinyl pan" the entire room instead of the hop mop????
 

IN AWE

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tkrrox
That is exactly the look I am going for while trying to get the liner drain in there as well. Apparently, in Europe, "wet rooms" are very common ??? This bathroom is very small, couldn't I just do a "vinyl pan" the entire room instead of the hop mop????
Hot mop and vinyl pans are old school, there are many waterproofing membranes such as Hydro Ban that will do the job just fine, and are easier to work with.
 

Paul65k

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Is there ever a concern over cutting into and/or modifying a slab in a Post-Tension slab??

I know I was always told this could be a concern as so many homes in SoCal have been built with Post-Tension......Just asking:headscratch:
 

NicPaus

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Is there ever a concern over cutting into and/or modifying a slab in a Post-Tension slab??

I know I was always told this could be a concern as so many homes in SoCal have been built with Post-Tension......Just asking:headscratch:

Yes if it is a post tension slab. No I have not seen any new construction in my area ever use post tension due to costs.


That old slab is clearly not post tension in his pic.
 

Paul65k

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Yes if it is a post tension slab. No I have not seen any new construction in my area ever use post tension due to costs.


That old slab is clearly not post tension in his pic.

:thumbsup:thumbsup
 

MSum661

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Area is not that big, was thinking about using a concrete blade on a saw, cutting strips, chip it out. Of course getting the proper slope to the drain in the process. Might be easier to just remove and lay in new??? I wasn't sure it was ok to cut/trim on the slab.

Sorry Drew, need the regular guy version. 1x ?? under mud threshold ??? vinyl pan ???

A diamond blade crack chaser wheel might deck it down as long as you don't go super crazy with it.
Looks like a small area your dealing so it might do the job in a pinch.
If you've never used one before try practicing on something else first. They work fast and leave a fairly smooth cut once you figure out how to work it.
If you do try it, Wear a mask.

CC.jpg
 

Yellowboat

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you want a wedi trust me.
http://us.wedi.de/



its super easy, just score it down to 2" knock it out with a chiping hammer... super easy.


done dozens of them. many with half glass block walls, with or with out doors. any idiot can install them correctly and you can water test asap.



ps I can hook you up with the south western supplier... lets just say almost all of their advertising pictures are my work.
 

Drew

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Hot mop and vinyl pans are old school, there are many waterproofing membranes such as Hydro Ban that will do the job just fine, and are easier to work with.

We use hydoban over the mud layer so water is not sitting in the mud base. But still use vinyl. No sense going back to a job one year later and tear the shower out because you missed a spot. Kurdy shlutter ( forgive the spelling not sure of the spelling because the tile guy installs it) or weety board is good. But you don't need any of that. Check it out on you tube. You will get the idea
 

MSum661

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you want a wedi trust me.
http://us.wedi.de/



its super easy, just score it down to 2" knock it out with a chiping hammer... super easy.


done dozens of them. many with half glass block walls, with or with out doors. any idiot can install them correctly and you can water test asap.



ps I can hook you up with the south western supplier... lets just say almost all of their advertising pictures are my work.

That is bitchin! Do you you need a vapor barrier surrounding the walls? Or do the panels simply attached to the studs as is?
Also what would be the min. required thickness on the pan to keep the tile floor flush with the shower floor tiles? Or would you have a slight ramp leading into the shower stall?
 

Yellowboat

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no ramp what so ever if you cut down deep enough. they do have a ada ramp to get you over the pan thickness, but I don't care for them unless the client is not willing to pay to cut the floor( or can't) they also have several configurations.

just before warned. the slope of wedi pans is pretty steep. you are pretty much stuck with 2x2 and if you can find them, get them with a rounded edge vs a cut tile( can be sharp, more so on old feet, which is where I did most of them)


I'll shoot you a pm with my number, easier to explain things for me then typing pages. I have done ~150 showers in them.

btw wedi is not the cheapest, but some of the things are priced great.
 

Yellowboat

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Going for something like this, not sure how a vinyl pan would work ??? Tiles might be smaller in my application and the liner drain might be in the middle of the shower (i.e. only two slopes to deal with ??)




I just saw the pic( on my phone) that's a fall waiting to happen( not legal either) I would never go smaller then 4x4 6x6 if it was really rough.
 

MSum661

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no ramp what so ever if you cut down deep enough. they do have a ada ramp to get you over the pan thickness, but I don't care for them unless the client is not willing to pay to cut the floor( or can't) they also have several configurations.

just before warned. the slope of wedi pans is pretty steep. you are pretty much stuck with 2x2 and if you can find them, get them with a rounded edge vs a cut tile( can be sharp, more so on old feet, which is where I did most of them)


I'll shoot you a pm with my number, easier to explain things for me then typing pages. I have done ~150 showers in them.

btw wedi is not the cheapest, but some of the things are priced great.

I know your working off your phone...but quick question. On new construction can the wood subfloor portion of the shower stall be framed recessed down to match the thickness of the shower pan panels? Just a simple yes or no...thanks!
 

*BN*

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5 x 12 note drain, full slabs marble walls
 

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Rickybobby

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holy moly BN that is sweet!!!!! I wish I had the much room, but it is what is.... just have to get creative with what I gots!!!! digging the slots for the tools !!!
 

MSum661

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Love it! Is that a custom sheet metal fabricated drain system? Like those cut in marble strips capping it off. Looks like Crema Marfil.
Very Nice!!

5 x 12 note drain, full slabs marble walls
 

TITTIES AND BEER

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You can remove existing slab and then dig down so the new slab is same thickness and has proper slope. I would go for 1" for each foot in shower area. Tile wainscote in rest of bathroom. Not sure if if I even took pictures of that job. forgot to get final pics yesterday as well.

make sure its not a post tension slab ;)
 

Rickybobby

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Getting closer. Ordered the linear shower drain I want just need to do a bit more cutting and install the adjustable drain.
 

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77charger

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I run into these more and more these days and quite a few i reuse to hot mop because the top of the drain is higher than the outside floor area because they dont drop the floor enough.

Upstairs are worse due to most only want to drop the floor 1 inch and the drain top is 1.5 inches above the floor.In 22 years of hot mopping i pretty much have seen it all.
 

77charger

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Hot mop and vinyl pans are old school, there are many waterproofing membranes such as Hydro Ban that will do the job just fine, and are easier to work with.

I have seen alot of stuff come and go thru the years and quite a few have gone back to hot mopping.It has proven to last many years if it is done right.You get what pay for when it comes to hot mopping.
 

Rickybobby

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You can remove existing slab and then dig down so the new slab is same thickness and has proper slope. I would go for 1" for each foot in shower area. Tile wainscote in rest of bathroom. Not sure if if I even took pictures of that job. forgot to get final pics yesterday as well.

So part of this deal is to see if I could do it myself and lean something along the way. Thanks for the input here. Its a very small "stall" shower so there is not much to screw up:D:D:D I ended up taking out the concrete repositioning the drain and lining it with a membrane, filling with sand and deck mud to build the base....
 

Rickybobby

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Some pics of my work
 

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77charger

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That style of of trough drains are good trust me makes it easy as a hot mopper to work around them.

Some other styles i have seen in the past where a real pain to deal with since they were just taking a stab at hoping i can fully seal it.
 

Rickybobby

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A few minor things left to do but others wise pretty much done. Happy with it so far!!!
 

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