WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

565 cubic inch BBC build

obnoxious001

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Ok,, thought I would post photos of this build I did earlier this year for "Rightytighty" over on PB. After discussing his needs, we decided on a 565 cubic inch normally aspirated big block Chevy, looking for something around 700 HP or so to put into a 21' Sanger mini cruiser.

Parts would include:

New Dart 10.2" tall deck block with billet main caps
Extra nice used Lunati 4.250" crank
New Compstar 6.800" connecting rods
New JE flat top pistons
New Dart Pro 1 heads with Inconel exhaust valves

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obnoxious001

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First thing I do is some cosmetic work on the block, even though the Dart blocks are really nice from the factory, here is some before and after. Besides looking nicer, it gets rid of sharp edges. The work in the valley helps a bit with oil drainback to the crankcase.

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obnoxious001

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After a very thorough wash job I can get ready to paint the block. Actually , it's much more like 3 wash jobs, using degreaser, brushes, then high pressure water rinse, then high pressure soap type wash with more brushes, then high pressure water rinse again. The Dart blocks come with steel freeze plugs for some reason, those get changed to brass. They also supply coated cam bearings with the billet cap block.

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After installing the brass plugs with sealer (aviation Permatex), I mask the block for paint, using tape and paper on the top, but I have a dedicated timing cover and oil pan just for painting, as well as covers for water pump and fuel pump bosses that are all held in place with bolts to save time.

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And then the finished paint job:

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obnoxious001

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Meanwhile, the rotating assembly has been picked up from the balance shop. I use Revco in Long Beach, I have known Larry since about 1979 when I worked for Gale Banks and he was balancing for ABS in Southgate.

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obnoxious001

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First I measure the crankshaft and record my measurements.

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obnoxious001

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Apparently I don't have a photo of using the dial bore gauge to compare the bearing clearance against the micrometer reading. By setting the dial bore gauge at "0" against whatever the micrometer setting is for a given jounal, then torquing the bearings into place and measuring with the dial bore gauge, the gauge reads the bearing clearance so there is no guessing. I usually go back and forth and double check the dial bore gauge against the mic several times to try and make sure I don't make a mistake. In this case I was able to hold a good tolerance using all standard size bearings with the exception of one .001" under main bearing shell. I don't mind that the rear main bearing has a little extra clearance with the wide surface area.

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obnoxious001

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The crank gets laid in place after a very careful wash in the solvent tank, and the crank endplay checked with a dial indicator.

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obnoxious001

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Now the pistons and rods get washed. All of the bearings had been previously torqued into the heads and measured. I keep all the wrist pins with the pistons they were balanced with, even though they should all weigh the same. The newspaper on the bench was all clean and fresh prior to laying out the parts in the order that I will install them, even bank in the rear, odd bank in the front. By using the same methods each time I assemble an engine, it makes it easier to get everything done without mixing up parts or making mistakes.

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obnoxious001

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Pistons are put onto the rods, making sure to oil the wristpins prior to assembly. This step takes some time, no matter how many times I have assembled pistons with spiral locks, they are a bit of a pain sometimes.

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obnoxious001

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The rings get set into the individual cylinders, measured with a feeler gauge, and then filed to get the gap the maker recommends for the particular application. The rings get squared in the bore with a special tool.

This was one of the last engines I had to hand file prior to buying a new electric ring filer, photos of that in a future build.

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obnoxious001

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After the pistons get knocked into the block and the rod bolts properly lubricated and torqued, it's time to assemble the heads. I prefer to assemble them myself using quality parts chosen for each build.

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obnoxious001

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This first photo is obviously an iron head, but I wanted to show the spring being checked. Rather than just read specs and install by what the spring is supposed to be, I check them and decide what the installed height should be. Springs are purchased based on the camshaft and type of use the engine will see.

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obnoxious001

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Using a variety of spring shims, I even check those with calipers prior to using them, they do vary some. The "installed height" of the spring is measured with a special valve spring height micrometer, and the desired installed height is subtracted from that, giving the amount of shims necessary to achieve the desired installed height.

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obnoxious001

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I have the luxury of having a pneumatic valve spring installation tool to install the springs onto the head.

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obnoxious001

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I chose Scorpion rockers, American made and not too far out of the budget. We have been using some of these on one of our dirt track engines that runs to 7,000 rpm lap after lap, with no failures, so feel like they will do a good job.

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obnoxious001

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One of the heads gets put on the block to measure for correct pushrod length.

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obnoxious001

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A few more of the parts that go on while I wait for Armandos to finally deliver an oil pan. I had a Dart intake polished to go with Obnoxious valve covers:

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obnoxious001

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Got a couple of shots of the almost completed long block, still no pan from Armandos. Note the stainless water inlet and outlet fittings from Rex Marine. I think those are pretty cool!

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obnoxious001

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After finally getting the Armandos pan, only to find out they didn't get it plated, even though it was a couple of weeks late, I painted it black, dropped the distributor and cut the plug wires to fit while Neil patiently waited so we could load it in his truck. We also bolted up the trans to check the pump drive endplay before sending it home with him.

After a bunch more work on his end to drop it in the boat, plumb and wire it, etc, here is how the finished product looked. Apparently it ran great all season, Neil plans to finally change the gears in the V drive to let the engine free up and rev a bit more, but by all reports he is happy with the power it makes.

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Wheeler

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Very Nice! Keep up the good work, I will be watching for more of your posts. :thumbsup:thumbsup
 

FLATMVN

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Barry,

Why are the lifter boss's different between Neil's Block and mine? His have had the boss machined. Why has this been done? Did Dart do it or was it done by someone else?

My Block
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Neil's Block
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obnoxious001

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Barry,

Why are the lifter boss's different between Neil's Block and mine? His have had the boss machined. Why has this been done? Did Dart do it or was it done by someone else?

Good eye Louis, I don't know for sure if Dart might have done that, machined to allow standard height roller lifters instead of the .300" tall. Neil's block is at least 2 years older.
 

rocket98

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Great thread I really enjoy these.......:thumbsup
 
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Barry,

It looks like the pictures are all gone off of photobucket oops.. i meant this for the other thread where the pics arent' showing up:rotflmao:
 

rightytighty

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Hey Barry,

Just noticed this thread. I reorganized my photobucket account and the unintended consequence was that it screwed up this thread (and mine at PB)..

I re-attached the pics to my thread.. Not sure if you can link it over some how.. Sorry..

Neil
 
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