Std. Deck, Tall Deck, or LS??

Just did this.

For parts availability, longevity, and maximum cubes per dollar spent aint no replacement for displacement.
- except for windmills then you deal with all other kind of complications - plumbing,intake temps requiring more plumbing, belt dust, and the one no one wants to talk about - insurance.

The tall deck BBC with its massive cubes and low end torque is the way I went.

I looked at the LS stuff and found no way to get what I wanted without windmills bolted on and even then - parts for it are still harder to find.


UD

BDMar said:

Dart has a one piece rear main seal if you go with a 9.800 block. I just ordered (2) for my personal 565 CI build. That's the deck I would go with for a 4.250 stroke and smaller that will run 7000 and below.

Click to expand...

Thanks BDMar.

Thanks to this thread I think I just found a GM block 502/540 short block with all the good stuff inside. [emoji106]

Heads, Cam, Intake next...

Uncle Dave said:

Just did this.

For parts availability, longevity, and maximum cubes per dollar spent aint no replacement for displacement.
- except for windmills then you deal with all other kind of complications - plumbing,intake temps requiring more plumbing, belt dust, and the one no one wants to talk about - insurance.

The tall deck BBC with its massive cubes and low end torque is the way I went.

I looked at the LS stuff and found no way to get what I wanted without windmills bolted on and even then - parts for it are still harder to find.


UD

Click to expand...

No hairdryers, windmills, or power adders on this deal. I want to turn the key without fail for a season or two.

Last time I had that shit I was always doing something to it. Need a break this time around.

rivrrts429 said:

No hairdryers, windmills, or power adders on this deal. I want to turn the key without fail for a season or two.

Last time I had that shit I was always doing something to it. Need a break this time around.

Click to expand...

Tell me about it Brother - I had 3 different blown mills in my 20.8 and spent a near infinite amount of time fucking with it.

With a "huffer" based mill everytime I got a bad tank of gas from a shit marina I had to deal with a blown engine vs. engine running like shit till you dump or it averages out. You just can't control your fuel if have to buy on the water.

running around in little circles on a river and filling from a 55 gallon drum in the back of your truck isn't how I boat - works for some - not for me I boat all over the place and go long distances.

Turbos blowers- love em - on other peoples boats. Im an old cranky fuck - I just wanna boat now and not wrench.

let us live vicariously through your new purchase keep the pics coming - and as always I wanna ride!

UD

Just a small update...

I'm going to a 565". Dart Big M block (9.8 deck, 4.600 bore, 4.250 stroke, 6.535 rod), Dart Pro1 aluminum 335 or 355's. Single plane intake w/ probably something in the 1050 cfm to 1100 cfm single carb.

Fun times [emoji106]

rivrrts429 said:

Just a small update...

I'm going to a 565". Dart Big M block (9.8 deck, 4.600 bore, 4.250 stroke, 6.535 rod), Dart Pro1 aluminum 335 or 355's. Single plane intake w/ probably something in the 1050 cfm to 1100 cfm single carb.

Fun times [emoji106]

Click to expand...

Nice.

You are slightly eclipsing my 547 Indy.

Think an 1100 will be enough?

wsuwrhr said:

Nice.

You are slightly eclipsing my 547 Indy.

Think an 1100 will be enough?

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It'll be tough but will have to have some massaging done to it. That'll be cheap insurance I think.

Don't really want to go to duals if I can make a single work. Maybe the guru's will chime in with thoughts or experience on a big single and the rpm loads these motors are under.

I think cam choice is going to be the choke point. I'm running jacketed headers and don't want reversion but I'll leave that in the motor builders hands if they choose.

rivrrts429 said:

Don't really want to go to duals if I can make a single work. Maybe the guru's will chime in with thoughts or experience on a big single and the rpm loads these motors are under.
.

Click to expand...

I put together a comp jet race engine two years ago,, 506 cubic inches, 800 HP (I felt that particular dyno was giving us a "real" number) at 6900 RPM. Perhaps we could have made more with a tunnel ram, but we didn't go to dyno with one ready to drop in place and compare.

obnoxious001 said:

I put together a comp jet race engine two years ago,, 506 cubic inches, 800 HP (I felt that particular dyno was giving us a "real" number) at 6900 RPM. Perhaps we could have made more with a tunnel ram, but we didn't go to dyno with one ready to drop in place and compare.

Click to expand...

That's the unknown at this point. Just trying to get heads on it now. I can try a tunnel ram but have my fingers crossed a single can work. Single would live better in a car rather than a boat I would think but I don't build motors either so what do I know lol.

Also shooting for 10.5:1. Not opposed to higher but would love pump gas.

Maybe wishful thinking...

rivrrts429 said:

That's the unknown at this point. Just trying to get heads on it now. I can try a tunnel ram but have my fingers crossed a single can work. Single would live better in a car rather than a boat I would think but I don't build motors either so what do I know lol.

Also shooting for 10.5:1. Not opposed to higher but would love pump gas.

Maybe wishful thinking...

Click to expand...

I would run that with iron heads, with alloy heads you could probably bump that a point.

wsuwrhr said:

I would run that with iron heads, with alloy heads you could probably bump that a point.

Click to expand...

I have those in my internet shopping cart too. Wasn't sure.

rivrrts429 said:

I have those in my internet shopping cart too. Wasn't sure.

Click to expand...

12:1 would be outer limits with alum heads.

But I would run 11 All. Day. Long. with alloy heads.

wsuwrhr said:

12:1 would be outer limits with alum heads.

But I would run 11 All. Day. Long. with alloy heads.

Click to expand...

Yes, but you also need a little cushion in case of bad fuel. I would stick with 11 as you be saying :thumbsup

wsuwrhr said:

I would run that with iron heads, with alloy heads you could probably bump that a point.

Click to expand...

Recognizing that a car loads an engine less than a boat does, I would still caution against pushing the compression limits on a carbureted street car. I don't know that pump gas is all that consistent anymore, seems more prudent to sacrifice a bit of compression and make the power up elsewhere.

Runs2rch said:

Yes, but you also need a little cushion in case of bad fuel. I would stick with 11 as you be saying :thumbsup

Click to expand...

yes.....outer limits.

Also remembering that a street engine will run considerably warmer than a freshwater cooled engine in a boat.

obnoxious001 said:

Also remembering that a street engine will run considerably warmer than a freshwater cooled engine in a boat.

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Weren't we talking a boat engine?

Soooo... are we saying yes to aluminum or better off with iron?

Down the road I want to be able to have an option to go blown or some other power adder. Not saying I will but it's possible. Don't want to end up needing to buy heads when/if I do.

rivrrts429 said:

Soooo... are we saying yes to aluminum or better off with iron?

Down the road I want to be able to have an option to go blown or some other power adder. Not saying I will but it's possible. Don't want to end up needing to buy heads when/if I do.

Click to expand...

WElp.....there is the rub. Once you change to a positive pressure in the intake, to make big power, your pistons and camshaft are likely no good for 10-20lbs boost.

I would always run alum over iron, infinitely repairable, easier to work with, ie porting. 50lbs lighter, maybe even more for behemoth BBC heads.

wsuwrhr said:

WElp.....there is the rub. Once you change to a positive pressure in the intake, to make big power, your pistons and camshaft are likely no good for 10-20lbs boost.

Click to expand...

I totally agree and understand that. It's not even in the cards right now as I have no interest in adding boost. Just trying to have my cake and eat it to I suppose lol.

Let's just focus on the short term then. Iron or aluminum?

wsuwrhr said:

I would always run alum over iron, infinitely repairable, easier to work with, ie porting. 50lbs lighter, maybe even more for behemoth BBC heads.

Click to expand...

Got it. Thanks!

An alloy block makes it to where you can move the block around by yourself.

100-200lbs lighter.

wsuwrhr said:

An alloy block makes it to where you can move the block around by yourself.

100-200lbs lighter.

Click to expand...

Ummmmm... No [emoji2]

I need an aluminum block for something else but not this family runabout [emoji106]

rivrrts429 said:

Ummmmm... No [emoji2]

I need an aluminum block for something else but not this family runabout [emoji106]

Click to expand...

You are scared.

wsuwrhr said:

You are scared.

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Lol... actually I don't want the polishing maintenance and I'm going to run a hatch. It would be a sin to cover up a shiny aluminum block. Those who run them spend a lot of time making sure every water spot is gone only to do it over again the next day.

rivrrts429 said:

Lol... actually I don't want the polishing maintenance and I'm going to run a hatch. It would be a sin to cover up a shiny aluminum block. Those who run them spend a lot of time making sure every water spot is gone only to do it over again the next day.

Click to expand...

You don't need to polish an alum block or heads to be cool.

wsuwrhr said:

You don't need to polish an alum block or heads to be cool.

Click to expand...

When I earn your money I'll spend it on the $4k-$5k block. Until then it's $2800 Dart iron for me [emoji2]

wsuwrhr said:

You don't need to polish an alum block or heads to be cool.

Click to expand...

I just let a protective coat of oxidation develop. Maintenance free after that.

rivrrts429 said:

When I earn your money I'll spend it on the $4k-$5k block. Until then it's $2800 Dart iron for me [emoji2]

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Oh please....if I had half of your money, I could burn mine.

1800-2K is too much for you?

I all I hear is how Chevy stuff is a dime a dozen compared to Mopar stuff.

Brian

wsuwrhr said:

Oh please....if I had half of your money, I could burn mine.

1800-2K is too much for you?

I all I hear is how Chevy stuff is a dime a dozen compared to Mopar stuff.

Brian

Click to expand...

Lol... It all gets really expensive when buying top shelf parts and using quality people.

The only difference in the marine world is that Chevy parts are on par with what the aftermarket Jeep industry is. But you don't see anybody saying it's cheap to build a jeep either and that market is massive.

Just saying [emoji106]

You think it is expensive now? Wait until you see how expensive it gets if you use a budget guy and budget parts.

FYI, remember, my beautiful wife will tell you my INDY block was $2500. So, WAAAY cheaper than that Chevy iron block you are going run. Perhaps you should think about where you shop.

Brian

rivrrts429 said:

Lol... It all gets really expensive when buying top shelf parts and using quality people.

The only difference in the marine world is that Chevy parts are on par with what the aftermarket Jeep industry is. But you don't see anybody saying it's cheap to build a jeep either and that market is massive.

Just saying [emoji106]

Click to expand...

wsuwrhr said:

You think it is expensive now? Wait until you see how expensive it gets if you use a budget guy and budget parts.

FYI, remember, my beautiful wife will tell you my INDY block was $2500. So, WAAAY cheaper than that Chevy iron block you are going run. Perhaps you should think about here you shop.

Brian

Click to expand...

Noted [emoji2][emoji106]

LargeOrangeFont said:

I just let a protective coat of oxidation develop. Maintenance free after that.

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Pffft. Newbies.

Alum is oxidized the minute it is poured.

Brian

rivrrts429 said:

Noted [emoji2][emoji106]

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...an iron block is $1500, so only $500 more, and it can be repaired, or resleeved. Almost like it was on sale.

Brian

rivrrts429 said:

Noted [emoji2][emoji106]

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If I owned any guns, they probably came from that same store.

wsuwrhr said:

...an iron block is $1500, so only $500 more, and it can be repaired, or resleeved. Almost like it was on sale.

Brian

Click to expand...

wsuwrhr said:

If I owned any guns, they probably came from that same store.

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You're on a roll today lol

Wife is hip to this shit. We were talking about GM block or Dart aftermarket. She asked the dreaded question, "what's the cost difference between the two?"

I'm thinking oh no she wants prices. I tell her it's about a thousand give or take.

She looks at me dead in the eye and says, "don't be a cheapskate on this motor!"

<---------- "yes dear, if you say so..." [emoji2]

So what's the problem?

Mine is too, I tell her what the parts cost.

Brian

rivrrts429 said:

You're on a roll today lol

Wife is hip to this shit. We were talking about GM block or Dart aftermarket. She asked the dreaded question, "what's the cost difference between the two?"

I'm thinking oh no she wants prices. I tell her it's about a thousand give or take.

She looks at me dead in the eye and says, "don't be a cheapskate on this motor!"
<---------- "yes dear, if you say so..." [emoji2]

Click to expand...

wsuwrhr said:

...an iron block is $1500, so only $500 more, and it can be repaired, or resleeved. Almost like it was on sale.

Brian

Click to expand...

You let the wife look at the tooling and maintenance expenses for the shop [emoji3]

JBS said:

You let the wife look at the tooling and maintenance expenses for the shop [emoji3]

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You kiddin me? That poor girl does the books. I don't want to know what that shit costs. Are you nuts?

I just work here.

wsuwrhr said:

You kiddin me? That poor girl does the books. I don't want to know what that shit costs. Are you nuts?

I just work here.

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Hah you ARE on a roll today :thumbsup

If you bring the boat back to my house with one of these,
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...nSESF6RWjurxL-A7Q&sig2=mxACCb-oJlpvbIuun6cEgA
I will put the engine back in the boat for free!
Just as long as I get to drive it for the shake down run.

Instigator said:

If you bring the boat back to my house with one of these,
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...nSESF6RWjurxL-A7Q&sig2=mxACCb-oJlpvbIuun6cEgA
I will put the engine back in the boat for free!
Just as long as I get to drive it for the shake down run.

Click to expand...

You son of a... [emoji2]

Wouldn't be a bad deal if I could sell my first born on eBay for a decent scratch [emoji106]

I want to hear it in person. Alexi's testing with that motor is insane. There's a thread here somewhere on it.

rivrrts429 said:

You son of a... [emoji2]

Wouldn't be a bad deal if I could sell my first born on eBay for a decent scratch [emoji106]

I want to hear it in person. Alexi's testing with that motor is insane. There's a thread here somewhere on it.

Click to expand...

Steve might even cry of you put a Boostpower 800 cubic inch compound supercharged engine in it.

Instigator said:

Steve might even cry of you put a Boostpower 800 cubic inch compound supercharged engine in it.

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He should put twins in the new boat when he gets one. [emoji106]

When is the anticipated completion and splash down? :thumbup: