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  1. #1
    Senior Member RaceTec's Avatar
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    Manx build questions...

    I am getting a roller started and wanted your opinions on a couple things...
    Mostly street with some off-road, full length pan, 3" body lift, IRS, 1915cc to start... In the long run it will get a new trans and probably something like an ecoboost...

    1. What do you buggy guys think about 30"x 9.5" on 15" x 7" all of the way around, will it look funny? I was just thinking the 4 plus the spare being the same size would be easier?
    2. Thinking about mid travel, doing 3X3 arms and a 6" over beam with coil overs all of the way around, will that be decent for the street and a little off-road? Or should I save more and do an a-arm conversion?

    Any other suggestions?

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  3. #2
    The Masheenest wsuwrhr's Avatar
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    Make sure you run a 3 rib, or better, 5 rib bus 002 trans and T2 CVs, or better, if you can stomach the price.

    3x arms like you said

    6 wide beam will be gnarly on the street, it will need a cage so the front end doesn't end up bent.

    You know the differences between the chassis right?

    Mid/long travel a arms will be "wonky" on the street/freeway

    Brian



    Quote Originally Posted by RaceTec View Post
    I am getting a roller started and wanted your opinions on a couple things...
    Mostly street with some off-road, full length pan, 3" body lift, IRS, 1915cc to start... In the long run it will get a new trans and probably something like an ecoboost...

    1. What do you buggy guys think about 30"x 9.5" on 15" x 7" all of the way around, will it look funny? I was just thinking the 4 plus the spare being the same size would be easier?
    2. Thinking about mid travel, doing 3X3 arms and a 6" over beam with coil overs all of the way around, will that be decent for the street and a little off-road? Or should I save more and do an a-arm conversion?

    Any other suggestions?
    Cheap, fast, good, pick any two.

    Quote Originally Posted by milkmoney View Post
    Huh?
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    I'll put it into easy to understand lingo - I'm going to go make a shitload of money
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  5. #3
    Senior Member RaceTec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wsuwrhr View Post
    Make sure you run a 3 rib, or better, 5 rib bus 002 trans and T2 CVs, or better, if you can stomach the price.

    3x arms like you said

    6 wide beam will be gnarly on the street, it will need a cage so the front end doesn't end up bent.

    You know the differences between the chassis right?

    Mid/long travel a arms will be "wonky" on the street/freeway

    Brian
    Thanks Brian, I am kind of learning as I go here...

    The plan is to cage the whole thing pretty much from the get go, that is why I am asking about the suspension... So a beam will be better all around?
    What differences in the chassis are you referring to?

    Already looking for a 5 rib... The plan was to get it running basically stock then do the upgrades as time and money allow...

    Thanks again for your input, I have been reading up a bunch but you guys usually have a bunch of experience!

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  7. #4
    The Masheenest wsuwrhr's Avatar
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    Because no chassis will have all that you want stock, since there isn't a chassis with a link pin and IRS. Personally I would look for a mid 60s chassis, that has a link front and put IRS in it.

    If you are switching to A arm, then it doesn't matter, just need to worry about smog laws on whatever chassis you use. I am not sure what the exempt year is now. When I built my car the cutoff was '66. I have a 65.

    If smog laws moved up, AND you are using a arms, then I would go with a 68(beam, not strut) chassis since the IRS mounts will be in the chassis already.

    In my opinion, A arms are just wonky on the street with big travel. Kinda floaty if that makes sense. A bury a body buddy has a monster manx and on the street it is a handful to drive at speed.

    If you end up with a link pin chassis then I have a better idea on adding the IRS mounts in the rear.

    Brian



    Quote Originally Posted by RaceTec View Post
    Thanks Brian, I am kind of learning as I go here...

    The plan is to cage the whole thing pretty much from the get go, that is why I am asking about the suspension... So a beam will be better all around?
    What differences in the chassis are you referring to?

    Already looking for a 5 rib... The plan was to get it running basically stock then do the upgrades as time and money allow...

    Thanks again for your input, I have been reading up a bunch but you guys usually have a bunch of experience!
    Cheap, fast, good, pick any two.

    Quote Originally Posted by milkmoney View Post
    Huh?
    Quote Originally Posted by HavasuHank View Post
    I'll put it into easy to understand lingo - I'm going to go make a shitload of money
    See SB Products @ http://www.sbp2020.com


    View and "Like" SB Products on FB

  8. #5
    Senior Member Gelcoater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceTec View Post
    I am getting a roller started and wanted your opinions on a couple things...
    Mostly street with some off-road, full length pan, 3" body lift, IRS, 1915cc to start... In the long run it will get a new trans and probably something like an ecoboost...

    1. What do you buggy guys think about 30"x 9.5" on 15" x 7" all of the way around, will it look funny? I was just thinking the 4 plus the spare being the same size would be easier?
    2. Thinking about mid travel, doing 3X3 arms and a 6" over beam with coil overs all of the way around, will that be decent for the street and a little off-road? Or should I save more and do an a-arm conversion?

    Any other suggestions?
    Who's kit are you running?
    If it's a Meyers kit maybe call Brad at Turnkey Manx.
    The dude is a Manx nut.

    He's been running Subaru engines, and trans too I believe. I think he told me there's a way to flip the pinion gear or something to make it work.
    He redoes the wiring harness himself and the car he was working on when I saw him (about a year? ago) he was going to run the non turbo subie/5speed combo. I think he said 160? 170? Hp. But stone axe reliable, regular gas, no drama.

    If you're familiar with it he ended up with Bruce's silver Manx 2+2 to toy around in.
    It has a 300ish hp Subaru turbo with a vw trans. Bruce gave me a ride in that car a few years ago, it was impressive as hell. Handled well on the turns too, considering the 31 inch bfg's on it and higher height.

    Post pics of what you're working with

  9. #6
    Senior Member RaceTec's Avatar
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    First off thanks Brian and Gelcoater!
    It is a ball joint pan. Sorry, I thought that there was something that I was missing. The plan is a three stage build. The plan is to run it as is with no cage while I gather the front and rear suspension parts. The next stage is getting the steel beam adapter and welding it to the ball joint front and then adding the new beam and building the cage front to back at the same time. That way I can build the beam into the cage and build the rear shock mounts and stuff for the rear suspension at the same time. That will push the beam forward about two inches and secure it both ways to the pan. I will then probably run that while I then gather a new engine and Trans. Not sure what I will be able to find engine wise, but that will dictate what transmission I go for. I am getting the pan and basics from vic's neighbor for a smoking deal and finishing it myself. I am searching for mostly used parts if I can to save money and I figure this will give me a great project with my three kids. It is a Manx man full length body.

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  11. #7
    The Masheenest wsuwrhr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceTec View Post
    First off thanks Brian and Gelcoater!
    It is a ball joint pan. Sorry, I thought that there was something that I was missing. The plan is a three stage build. The plan is to run it as is with no cage while I gather the front and rear suspension parts. The next stage is getting the steel beam adapter and welding it to the ball joint front and then adding the new beam and building the cage front to back at the same time. That way I can build the beam into the cage and build the rear shock mounts and stuff for the rear suspension at the same time. That will push the beam forward about two inches and secure it both ways to the pan. I will then probably run that while I then gather a new engine and Trans. Not sure what I will be able to find engine wise, but that will dictate what transmission I go for. I am getting the pan and basics from vic's neighbor for a smoking deal and finishing it myself. I am searching for mostly used parts if I can to save money and I figure this will give me a great project with my three kids. It is a Manx man full length body.
    I would be careful with no cage to support that wide of a beam. I may be in the minority. I've never seen the ball joint to link front adapter.

    So you are planning to put the body on and run it with the stock ball joint IRS? YOU CAN "cut and turn" the front beam for now to slightly raise and stiffen the front. Cost you less than $100, the rear preload can be increased easily for no money. I can help out with either if you like.
    Last edited by wsuwrhr; 11-19-2016 at 08:21 AM.
    Cheap, fast, good, pick any two.

    Quote Originally Posted by milkmoney View Post
    Huh?
    Quote Originally Posted by HavasuHank View Post
    I'll put it into easy to understand lingo - I'm going to go make a shitload of money
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  12. #8
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    My wife manx matching your description and it drives fine on streetName:  IMG_1194.jpg
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    091 box, 2332motor,it does have tube frame mated to pan.

  13. #9
    The Masheenest wsuwrhr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipemn View Post
    My wife manx matching your description and it drives fine on street

    091 box, 2332motor,it does have tube frame mated to pan.
    Yep, nice looking.

    That is xactly what I am suggesting. Mid travel beam car.
    Cheap, fast, good, pick any two.

    Quote Originally Posted by milkmoney View Post
    Huh?
    Quote Originally Posted by HavasuHank View Post
    I'll put it into easy to understand lingo - I'm going to go make a shitload of money
    See SB Products @ http://www.sbp2020.com


    View and "Like" SB Products on FB

  14. #10
    Senior Member RaceTec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipemn View Post
    My wife manx matching your description and it drives fine on street
    091 box, 2332motor,it does have tube frame mated to pan.
    Pipemn, that is exactly where I want to end up! Brian, sorry for the confusion, I will only be driving it with the stock suspension with no cage while I gather parts. As soon as I have all of the parts I will install them at the same time as I cage it. So the wider beam will be completely tied in at that point. I won't need the adapter but I just figured it would be another point of attachment for the beam along with the cage? Name:  6339425.jpg
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