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Wiring assist needed

5150

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I've found dozens of threads that address wiring but I can't locate one specific to how my junk should be wired. Specifically, where do wires 1 thru 7 go on the attached set up? Also, in the Hardin diagram (upper right) where is the "10 red from harness" supposed to go?

My apologies, the Hardin diagram (PDF) is showing up as a link at the bottom of the starter image.
 

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Carlson-jet

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The left copper post should be connected to the positive side of the Battery. The right copper post goes to the post on the started by the flag sticker. The Top post labeled S is for the ignition switch/key when it is turned all the way to the right for starting. The bottom is for when you have an old school points distributor running a resister. This goes to the side that connects to the coil to give 12 volts to the coil ONLY when starting, bypassing the resister prior to the coil. Older coils typically ran 8-9 volts as 12 volts will lead to a short life on them. If you are running a modern ignition system that typically does not apply.

Your wiring diagram really needs to be tailored to your complete set up. There really is no one size fits all. Going off of a random diagram can lead to headaches.

Type of alternator such as a single wire, ignition set-up along with if you have an electric fuel pump changes many things. I have a shutoff on my fuel pump if the oil pressure is below 5-7 lbs. I bypass that during start-up to get fuel pressure before building oil pressure. This is all via a relay. I use the "I" to prime the fuel bowls.

More information needs to be posted to get you the information you should have. Labeling where the wires go may not be what you need. :)

I believe "10" red indicates 10 gauge wire. Meaning a main positive power source.
 

5150

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The left copper post should be connected to the positive side of the Battery. The right copper post goes to the post on the started by the flag sticker. The Top post labeled S is for the ignition switch/key when it is turned all the way to the right for starting. The bottom is for when you have an old school points distributor running a resister. This goes to the side that connects to the coil to give 12 volts to the coil ONLY when starting, bypassing the resister prior to the coil. Older coils typically ran 8-9 volts as 12 volts will lead to a short life on them. If you are running a modern ignition system that typically does not apply.

Your wiring diagram really needs to be tailored to your complete set up. There really is no one size fits all. Going off of a random diagram can lead to headaches.

Type of alternator such as a single wire, ignition set-up along with if you have an electric fuel pump changes many things. I have a shutoff on my fuel pump if the oil pressure is below 5-7 lbs. I bypass that during start-up to get fuel pressure before building oil pressure. This is all via a relay. I use the "I" to prime the fuel bowls.

More information needs to be posted to get you the information you should have. Labeling where the wires go may not be what you need. :)

I believe "10" red indicates 10 gauge wire. Meaning a main positive power source.

Thank you very much.
 

rivermobster

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The left copper post should be connected to the positive side of the Battery. The right copper post goes to the post on the started by the flag sticker. The Top post labeled S is for the ignition switch/key when it is turned all the way to the right for starting. The bottom is for when you have an old school points distributor running a resister. This goes to the side that connects to the coil to give 12 volts to the coil ONLY when starting, bypassing the resister prior to the coil. Older coils typically ran 8-9 volts as 12 volts will lead to a short life on them. If you are running a modern ignition system that typically does not apply.

Your wiring diagram really needs to be tailored to your complete set up. There really is no one size fits all. Going off of a random diagram can lead to headaches.

Type of alternator such as a single wire, ignition set-up along with if you have an electric fuel pump changes many things. I have a shutoff on my fuel pump if the oil pressure is below 5-7 lbs. I bypass that during start-up to get fuel pressure before building oil pressure. This is all via a relay. I use the "I" to prime the fuel bowls.

More information needs to be posted to get you the information you should have. Labeling where the wires go may not be what you need. :)

I believe "10" red indicates 10 gauge wire. Meaning a main positive power source.

What he said x1000! ^^^

The pics that were posted show a Ford style starting system (separate starter and solenoid). The diagram you posted shows a somewhat typical GM style starting system. These two just don't match up, that's why the OP can't figure it out!

I would Guess that you use either 2, 3 and 4 OR 5,6 and 7. I can't see why you would use both in this situation. Plus, with all the variables that have already been mentioned, we are not going to sort this out online easily.

Where are you located 5150? I'm in Irwindale if you want to bring the suspect in question to me. :)
 

5150

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What he said x1000! ^^^

The pics that were posted show a Ford style starting system (separate starter and solenoid). The diagram you posted shows a somewhat typical GM style starting system. These two just don't match up, that's why the OP can't figure it out!

I would Guess that you use either 2, 3 and 4 OR 5,6 and 7. I can't see why you would use both in this situation. Plus, with all the variables that have already been mentioned, we are not going to sort this out online easily.

Where are you located 5150? I'm in Irwindale if you want to bring the suspect in question to me. :)

I'm on the East coast but I appreciate your offer. You are correct 2, 3 and 4. Based on this screwy set up, I've decided to ditch the Hardin harness and create my own. Many thanks for the assist.
 
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