Berkely Pump

How tight should these nuts and bolts be??? Talking bout the steering cable contraption.

Some one had too short of a cable. I would say tight and locktite. Me I am getting the rigjt cable asap.


Would not stop me from going too the lake, but it would be on the fix asap list.

What pump is that, a JE?

http://www.berkeleyjet.com/c-668-model-12je-parts.aspx

I would say as tight as possible and add a stop bolt in that slot just in case.

I'm thinking of you tighten those two tight it isn't going to work because the plates won't rotate.

Something about that setup (like all of it) doesn't look right. That's factory?

If you were set on keeping it that way for some reason I would change it to a pin and c clip style configuration

RiverDave said:

I'm thinking of you tighten those two tight it isn't going to work because the plates won't rotate.

Something about that setup (like all of it) doesn't look right. That's factory?

If you were set on keeping it that way for some reason I would change it to a pin and c clip style configuration

Click to expand...

The connection on the left side has an aircraft nut (nylock), that's the pivot.

All bolt threads should be down or back, when it's possible, that whole thing does not look copacetic.

...and in single shear on top of it all

I have incredibly low standards, and I would not drive a boat (or push cart) with steering like that.

It shouldn't have a nylon locking nut on it, should be using a castle nut with a cotter pin through it. You don't want them that tight like RD said they have to rotate just tight enough to have any up and down play gone.
http://www.cpperformance.com/c-668-model-12je-parts.aspx

This is how I bought it. Suppose it's standard factory, unless some noodled it.

Spectra18 said:

How tight should these nuts and bolts be??? Talking bout the steering cable contraption. View attachment 549820

Click to expand...

Should these nuts/bolts be able to slide in the slot or fastened where it is currently??

RiverDave said:

I'm thinking of you tighten those two tight it isn't going to work because the plates won't rotate.

Something about that setup (like all of it) doesn't look right. That's factory?

If you were set on keeping it that way for some reason I would change it to a pin and c clip style configuration

Click to expand...

what plates are you referring too? and should it slide within that slot or keep it tight?

Looks like either and E or F pump looks ok to me. tighten the nut down then back it off just a bit so there is no binding. You could use some red Loctite on the bolt to help secure it once it is backed off a bit.

That looks like the set-up Place-diverter used to give one for the old school diverter . I bought an entire JE pump with diverter and if I remember that is what it looks like. The slot is for adjustment of the FWD/RVS cable. They do look flimsy.

Well Yes Berkeley did some rather strange things when "upgrading" and retrofitting their parts, The "E" (12JE) was considered a transom mount jet or "insert jet" and as hokey as the steering seemed that's the way it was made and honestly the various linkages associated with the "E" seldom fail, the bolt/nut combo on the right needs to be tight (typical 5/16 bolt around 15fps the shouldered affair on the left need to pivot to effect steering , We have a way of abandoning these and changing them to be what we consider more reliable and less of an opportunity to leak as well





JBP E pump modified steering