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1989 stoker 225 evinrude question

67 baron sprint LD 390 FE

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We just picked this stoker up few months ago , it seems to have a cough at idle , and kind of hard to start i the am, other than that it runs great. Is there any i can start looking at that could easy to work on before i take it to als in havasu
 

DLow

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Cough could be a lot of things... is it all stock? First thing to do is hit the primer button while it is running and coughing. If it goes away you have a lean sneeze condition. Could be a plugged idle circuit or reed going bad.
OMCs are often hard to start cold. Make sure all of the battery terminals are clean and cables are good. Without a solid 10.5+ volts to the power pack while cranking, it won't start. This sounds like no big deal, but it has caused many people problems that can easily be resolved.
 

outboardrick

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This ^^^^ is good info. They do tend to sneeze a little when first started cold due to being slightly lean, but you also may have a leaking reed. I would always start mine on the trailer before putting it in the water, just for a second, and then it starts right off once it's launched.
 

Warpt

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You need to get a factory manual and perform a sync and link which helps the idle. To check the reeds pull the air box cover off and let it idle and if you have a bad or leaky Reed it will be spitting fuel out of the carb with the bad Reed. Do not run the boat at anything above idle as it could ruin the motor from running lean.
 

GEESEMAN

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There is a specific starting procedure for the "loopers". My old boat was the same way until Al Stoker enlightened me...make sure the motor is level..
1. Pump the primer ball
2. Turn the key and push in (fuel enrichment) you'll hear a click if it's working
3. Repeat 1 and 2 twice more
4. Turn key to start while pushing the key in and holding the pedal a hair open.
This should work for the first cold fire up. If it's anything like the others it will be fine the rest of the day. As for the idle I'm not too sure....I found out my VRO was bad and that fixed everything. Good Luck!
 

RitcheyRch

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:tbi Always worked for my Evinrude powered Stoker.


There is a specific starting procedure for the "loopers". My old boat was the same way until Al Stoker enlightened me...make sure the motor is level..
1. Pump the primer ball
2. Turn the key and push in (fuel enrichment) you'll hear a click if it's working
3. Repeat 1 and 2 twice more
4. Turn key to start while pushing the key in and holding the pedal a hair open.
This should work for the first cold fire up. If it's anything like the others it will be fine the rest of the day. As for the idle I'm not too sure....I found out my VRO was bad and that fixed everything. Good Luck!
 

sprintcvx

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There is a specific starting procedure for the "loopers". My old boat was the same way until Al Stoker enlightened me...make sure the motor is level..
1. Pump the primer ball
2. Turn the key and push in (fuel enrichment) you'll hear a click if it's working
3. Repeat 1 and 2 twice more
4. Turn key to start while pushing the key in and holding the pedal a hair open.
This should work for the first cold fire up. If it's anything like the others it will be fine the rest of the day. As for the idle I'm not too sure....I found out my VRO was bad and that fixed everything. Good Luck!
I do the same only difference is my VRO is still hooked up and if I don't pump the oil ball first my alarm will sound.

We just picked this stoker up few months ago , it seems to have a cough at idle , and kind of hard to start i the am, other than that it runs great. Is there any i can start looking at that could easy to work on before i take it to als in havasu
Mine did the same, not so much of a cough, but really rough idle. My mechanic traced it down to bad thermostats, said the motor wasn't warming up, replaced those and haven't had another problem.
 

DLow

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Mine did the same, not so much of a cough, but really rough idle. My mechanic traced it down to bad thermostats, said the motor wasn't warming up, replaced those and haven't had another problem.

Yes. Very important that these engines come up to temp. It really affects their air/fuel ratio. Absolutely no reason to remove the thermostats, or the water control valves on earlier engines.
 
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