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DIY Looking for Guidance and Help

Dirtbag

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So when we come out to Havasu for the 4th we are going to be updating our new Polaris General 4. I want to do as much as I can by myself. I know nothing about wiring electricity or tools in general. But I really want to learn so hopefully i can fix my boat when it breaks and now this General.

So to Start we are going to install:

50" curved lightbar on the roof https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...F8&psc=1&tag=vs-powersports-convert-amazon-20
12" Light bar on front Bumper https://www.amazon.com/Light-Eyourl...4163&sr=1-14&keywords=eyourlife+led+light+bar
20" Light bar on back Roof for a reverse light https://www.amazon.com/Eyourlife-Dr...94405&sr=1-6&keywords=eyourlife+led+light+bar

We are going to use MICTUNING rocker switches.

I still need to find a couple lighted whips and mounts.

The cool thing about Polaris is the Lock and Ride but obviously anything aftermarket isnt lock and ride.

Now i know nothing about voltage and batteries and how all that works. ive watched a bunch of lighting video installs but it really doesnt tell you everything you need. I want to have everything ready to rock so we can spend all night getting this stuff installed. Do you guys have any suggestions?

Im also going to strip all the graphics off the General. I want to get it wrapped to have similar graphics of our boat. Do you guys know anyone who does that in havasu?
 

ArizonaKevin

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It all depends on how you want to do it. You can do it as simply as connecting the wires to your battery, through your switch (use included diagram) up you your light with an inline fuse. You could also go the route of getting a Blue Sea fuse block. This allows you to run power from the battery to the fuse block and then wire your lights from the fuse block. This allows for a cleaner install because there wont be 4 different wires coming off of your battery. The most important part of any wiring install (IMO), is to ensure a proper ground.
 

Dirtbag

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It all depends on how you want to do it. You can do it as simply as connecting the wires to your battery, through your switch (use included diagram) up you your light with an inline fuse. You could also go the route of getting a Blue Sea fuse block. This allows you to run power from the battery to the fuse block and then wire your lights from the fuse block. This allows for a cleaner install because there wont be 4 different wires coming off of your battery. The most important part of any wiring install (IMO), is to ensure a proper ground.

Kevin if i wire straight to the battery wont these accessories be always on? I would like that not to be the case. I would like them to power up when i have hit the switches. I definitely want the cleanest and safest install.
 

hallett21

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Kevin if i wire straight to the battery wont these accessories be always on? I would like that not to be the case. I would like them to power up when i have hit the switches. I definitely want the cleanest and safest install.

Battery to fuse block. Then fuse block to switch. Then switch to light. Use quality butt splices with correct crimp tool. Also shrink wrap all butt splices.

Secure wires often to prevent vibrations that could lead to bad connections
 

Dirtbag

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Battery to fuse block. Then fuse block to switch. Then switch to light. Use quality butt splices with correct crimp tool. Also shrink wrap all butt splices.

Secure wires often to prevent vibrations that could lead to bad connections

i actually understand everything you just said which is a surprise. only issue i have is the butt splices and crmp tool and shrink wrap. I will be using these wiring harnesses. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZ2BSNQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A15H3UKRB6RHF9
 

Waffles

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Please use a relay when wiring. Don't splice into existing circuits​ and use the proper gauge for whatever accessory you're wiring up. A bit of Overkill but better to be safe than sorry
d2b63c78211040c4cf7640494af3d3db.gif
 

ArizonaKevin

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Kevin if i wire straight to the battery wont these accessories be always on? I would like that not to be the case. I would like them to power up when i have hit the switches. I definitely want the cleanest and safest install.

I echo what Hallett21 posted below, if you want the cleanest and safest install, use a fuse block. Blue Sea makes a great product. I am not sure where the battery is in the general, but in our RZR it is below the seats, you can mount the fuse block virtually anywhere, ours is under the hood to make the fuses easily accessible if required.
 

hallett21

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Please use a relay when wiring. Don't splice into existing circuits​ and use the proper gauge for whatever accessory you're wiring up. A bit of Overkill but better to be safe than sorry
d2b63c78211040c4cf7640494af3d3db.gif

X2

Looks like your harnesses all come with relays so that's good.
 

hallett21

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i actually understand everything you just said which is a surprise. only issue i have is the butt splices and crmp tool and shrink wrap. I will be using these wiring harnesses. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZ2BSNQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A15H3UKRB6RHF9

That harness appears to be plug and play. I'm sure it has more than enough wire. For a "clean" install you'll end up cutting the wire length and then need to crimp on new connections.

Typically you'd be butt splicing at the lights and then re-crimping terminals for the switch (whatever connection the switch uses) and re crimping connectors for the battery terminal.

Another suggestion would be lining up the relays all together so that in the event something breaks you are able to quickly diagnose (battery-->fuse-->relay-->switch-->lights)

You don't want to have to be un securing wires trying to chase everything down.

Go to any supply store (Home Depot etc) and get phasing tape. It's colored electrical tape. Go ahead and put red on a relay and red also on the light connections. Blue for another and white for another.

That way when you are running your wires and securing everything you will know which relay corresponds with what light/switch. When you are all done you can get a paint pen and label your relays 1-3 or however many you have. That way if you have one go bad you know relay 1 = light bar etc.

Hope that wasn't too winded
 

Dirtbag

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That harness appears to be plug and play. I'm sure it has more than enough wire. For a "clean" install you'll end up cutting the wire length and then need to crimp on new connections.

Typically you'd be butt splicing at the lights and then re-crimping terminals for the switch (whatever connection the switch uses) and re crimping connectors for the battery terminal.

Another suggestion would be lining up the relays all together so that in the event something breaks you are able to quickly diagnose (battery-->fuse-->relay-->switch-->lights)

You don't want to have to be un securing wires trying to chase everything down.

Go to any supply store (Home Depot etc) and get phasing tape. It's colored electrical tape. Go ahead and put red on a relay and red also on the light connections. Blue for another and white for another.

That way when you are running your wires and securing everything you will know which relay corresponds with what light/switch. When you are all done you can get a paint pen and label your relays 1-3 or however many you have. That way if you have one go bad you know relay 1 = light bar etc.

Hope that wasn't too winded

that was awesome.....im gonna get everything here...then lay it all out....send you a picture and hope i do it right haha
 

paradise

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Not sure on the general, but on the RZRs Polaris sells a kit to get fused power up to the front of the RZR. Also, if you buy their light kits (yes they are more expensive) they come with the exact length of wire you need with grommets and everything to run through the factory cage... May be worth looking into. It's worth the money IMHO.
 

Dirtbag

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Not sure on the general, but on the RZRs Polaris sells a kit to get fused power up to the front of the RZR. Also, if you buy their light kits (yes they are more expensive) they come with the exact length of wire you need with grommets and everything to run through the factory cage... May be worth looking into. It's worth the money IMHO.

i can buy 7 sets of lights for their one light kit.....its crazy how much they are charging.....but at the same time im not sure how im gonna fit my lights on the rooff
 

Dirtbag

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Well here is my list so far. all purchased off Amazon except for the Brackets for the 42" Curved Light Bar.



Seizmik Pr/ Pursuit Alum Side Mirrors 18071




Seizmik Mirror Mounts for Polaris General [18069]




MICTUNING 42" 240W 3B339C Curved LED Work Light Bar Combo Off Road Driving Fog Light, 24-Month Warranty




MICTUNING MIC-LSR12 5Pin Laser Rear Lights Rocker Switch On-Off LED Light 20A 12V, Blue




Mictuning Universal Rocker Style Car USB Charger - with Blue LED Light Dual USB Power Socket for Rocker Switch Panel




MicTuning MIC-LSK1 Zombie Lights Symbol Rocker Switch On-Off LED Light, 20A, 12V, Blue
MicTuning MIC-LSK1 Zombie Lights Symbol Rocker Switch On-Off LED Light, 20A, 12V, Blue



MicTuning ACSSB Laser On-Off Rocker Switch with Jumper Wire, 5 Pin, 20 Amp, 12V, LED Lights, Sasquatch Light, Blue




MICTUNING Blue ROCK LIGHTS Rocker Switch Kit- On/Off Blue LED Light 20A 12V




Auxbeam LED Light Bar 12" 72W CREE LED Light 24pcs 3W CREE Driving Light Combo Beam Waterproof for Off-road 4x4 Truck Military Mining Heavy Equipment




Amak 4pcs LED Rock Light JEEP ATV SUV Offroad Truck Boat Underbody Glow Trail Rig Lamp Waterproof -Blue




3 of MICTUNING HD 300w LED Light Bar Wiring Harness Fuse 40Amp Relay ON-OFF Waterproof Switch(2Lead 12Feet 14AWG)




Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover



I havent purchased the rear reverse light yet because i dont know the dimensions or what i should buy. I dont need flashers or anything just want something to light the back up when in reverse or if we just need some light.

Can you guys tell me what extras i will need? More wire? What kind? Relays? anything you can help with is much appreciated. Hope the links work

I paid just over $400 for everything listed.
 
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