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  1. #1
    Senior Member Gelcoater's Avatar
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    Manx build. Tons of questions

    Picked this up last month from a fellow RDP member.
    Project car, 68 body on 63 pan.

    First question.

    Should there be such a bow in the windshield?
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    It looks to be an easy 3/4 inch.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Gelcoater's Avatar
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    Wiring

    Any go to sources for electrical?

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    That piece of red wire on the passenger floor and the wires coming from the distributor are the only wires I can find on this car.
    So an entire street legal harness build is in my future.

    I'm a painter. All I know is electricity is blue. And it hurts.
    I've figured out what the ground symbol is on en electrical schematic. Beyond that it's Egyptian.

    Any and all advise here is appreciated.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Gelcoater's Avatar
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    The dash

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    Factory Meyers dash.

    But isn't going to fit with the front down bars of the cage there.

    Cut and narrow the dash or fab a flat gelcoated panel for a dash?
    Or flat carbon fiber panel for dash?

    With some time that factory unit could be sectioned and narrowed to fit.

    I'm torn.

  4. #4
    Member Cole Trickle's Avatar
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    That was a deal I was on it a couple minutes after posted and I have always wanted a Manx but the time wasn't right.

    I would get into the different bE or Manx forums. Quick search on eBay and there are a ton of Manx wiring harnesses for les than $250.

    There simple shouldn't be that hard to figure it out with the help of rdp and youtube

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    wsuwrhr (06-08-2017)

  6. #5
    Senior Member BamBam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gelcoater View Post
    Any go to sources for electrical?

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    That piece of red wire on the passenger floor and the wires coming from the distributor are the only wires I can find on this car.
    So an entire street legal harness build is in my future.

    I'm a painter. All I know is electricity is blue. And it hurts.
    I've figured out what the ground symbol is on en electrical schematic. Beyond that it's Egyptian.

    Any and all advise here is appreciated.
    I was considering this place for a VW wiring harness. http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/vw-items I ended up just building the entire wiring harness on my own. I don't understand Egyptian but I understand electrical. As far as the bow in the windshield, I would try to remove the entire assembly. Then remove the bottom piece of metal. I would then try to straighten that piece once removed from the glass. If that piece is bowed it could be causing the glass to bow with it. I was looking at this and tried to buy it as well, but you were too quick on the draw. It would have been another fun toy for dad to have out at the river house. Good luck with the project and keep asking questions as I'm sure others want to see the progress and help as much as possible.
    '97 Schiada RC V-Drive 540 EFI

  7. #6
    The Masheenest wsuwrhr's Avatar
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    Cage looks bad ass if the pictures do it justice.
    Cheap, fast, good, pick any two.

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    I'll put it into easy to understand lingo - I'm going to go make a shitload of money
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  8. #7
    Senior Member AzGeo's Avatar
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    Wiring that car ............

    from scratch, is easier than doing a 3 color gel coat spray job ..............
    Learn one new thing every day, know your fields of endeavor, share with the brightest and the best, accommodate the rest .

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  10. #8
    Senior Member UltraLucky's Avatar
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    If it is an original Manx body and Dash I would keep the configuration of the dash as close as possible if you can, The dash is one of the ways to distinguish the original bodies from the splashed molds. I had to trim mine a bit to fit around the cage. The windshield should be a flat piece of glass, no bow.
    Lot of guys are using the Rebel Harness or a stock Bug harness for the year you want to replicate the lighting and turn signals from. Than you can use the VW wiring diagrams and turn signal switches and relays. I went with the 1966 so i could have the turn signal and Hi/Low beam switch on the column.

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    Gelcoater (06-12-2017)

  12. #9
    Senior Member Gelcoater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UltraLucky View Post
    If it is an original Manx body and Dash I would keep the configuration of the dash as close as possible if you can, The dash is one of the ways to distinguish the original bodies from the splashed molds. I had to trim mine a bit to fit around the cage. The windshield should be a flat piece of glass, no bow.
    Lot of guys are using the Rebel Harness or a stock Bug harness for the year you want to replicate the lighting and turn signals from. Than you can use the VW wiring diagrams and turn signal switches and relays. I went with the 1966 so i could have the turn signal and Hi/Low beam switch on the column.
    The Rebel kit looks miles ahead of others I have looked at. Thanks.
    Will probably order one.

    As far as the dash and distinguishing the body from a splash...

    I've already had the body authenticated by Bruce and Winnie.
    There was a discrepancy in the last number of the serial number from the PO in their registry number.
    The body is a 68

    It had been painted over...twice.
    The car has been red and now yellow.
    Was hard to read and that last number was the key to knowing what the original color was.
    So I pulled the plate and got the paint off.
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    The original color was "ColdFire" metal flake.
    Is a mix of gold and green.
    Interesting note here, ColdFire was a typo on the color chart and should have been GoldFire.
    I understand there's a few 70-73 Beismeyer flats gelled in Cold/GoldFire.


    This pic confirmed for the Meyers crew the OG color and the final letter and allowed them to complete that entry of their registry. And, got the car in their new registry, a cert of authenticity and new badges.

    Kind of cool learning about the history of old cars.

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    UltraLucky (06-12-2017), wsuwrhr (06-17-2017)

  14. #10

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