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74 Sanger "supposedly" help

Sangerskier

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Hello all, I've been a lurker here for quite a few years. I picked this boat up from a guy been sitting in his garage for 20 years or so. Supposedly its a 74 Sanger however it does not have a conventional HIN its a M followed by 5 numbers. The title is good, guys owned it since 1980. Anyway, I"m looking for any ideas on what my cav plate pedals are, Ive never seen them like this before andd they seem to be backwards, not to mention they're froze up and don't currently work.
 

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Deangang

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Hello all, I've been a lurker here for quite a few years. I picked this boat up from a guy been sitting in his garage for 20 years or so. Supposedly its a 74 Sanger however it does not have a conventional HIN its a M followed by 5 numbers. The title is good, guys owned it since 1980. Anyway, I"m looking for any ideas on what my cav plate pedals are, Ive never seen them like this before andd they seem to be backwards, not to mention they're froze up and don't currently work.

One is the down pedal ones the up. You probably need to slide the boat back on the trailer for the cav plate to work or float it .

Darren
 

Sangerskier

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I had it in the water and had the same results they are locked up tight. I'm gonna start taking it apart and see what the deal is. What I don't get is the left is always the down pedal and right the up, but with this setup the right pedal is the down pedal. I've never seen this setup before.
Chris
 

Boat Anchor

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Hey Chris, your peddles look to be installed wrong. The peddle with the arm that attaches to the plate control rod needs to be in the forward position. In the photo you have posted of your peddle set up, the peddle with the arm is in the rear position. In this configuration, when the down peddle (peddle on the right with the arm, in the rear position) is pressed forward, the arm may come into contact with the diameter of the up peddle (the peddle in the forward position, without the arm) thus locking up your down peddle from moving any further forward. The peddle with the arm needs to be mounted in the forward position, so when pressed forward the arm doesn't come in contact with anything. You can test this theory by disconnecting the linkage to the plate control rod, pressing the peddle with the arm forward, and seeing if it comes in contact with the peddle without the arm.

As far as your hull being a 1974, I question that as well. By 1974 Sanger was producing mostly bubble deck flat bottom and runner bottom hulls. The straight deck was still available, but had been changed somewhat with raised flat area about the width of 3/4 in masking tape that ran around the top inside edge of the dash, gunwales, and transom. The photos that you have posted of your dash/deck area, and the drivers side gunwale, do not exhibit the raised flat area/feature that I am talking about. Im my opinion it looks more like a 1968 to a 1971 hull. Check out the under water hardware and note weather or not the strut and fin bases are recessed into the bottom of the hull. If they are, there's a pretty good chance the hull is a 1970, 1971 (Sanger started recessing under water hardware in 1970) If the under water hardware is not recessed the hull is probably a 1968 or 1969. As far as your HIN number goes, you may find another number on the inside wood of the transom, up behind the upper rudder support. The last two digits correspond to the year the hull was manufactured. Starting in 1973 the Coast Guard required all HIN numbers to be in the upper right hand corner of the exterior of the transom. in your case the original number may have been filled in when the filled seam was done, and the number in there now may be a fake number just to satisfy registration requirements (just a possibility). I hope this helps.

Boat Anchor
 

Sangerskier

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Thanks for the info Boat Anchor. You're absolutely right, I disconnected both ends of the cav control rod last night and it was the pedals that were all locked up, once I loosened the bolts on the assembly and a little elbow grease they freed up and when the down pedal does hit the up, going to get it all apart and see whats up inside. I may just completely remove the up pedal. The springs are strong and other hardware looks in real good shape. My prop strut and tracking fin are both recessed. My hull number is M21071 which I suspicioned when I bought it that It was older than a 74 and with your info it appears a 71. As far as being titled a 74 there are many ways that could have happened back in the day I guess. I had a similar issue many years ago with an old jet boat, but like this one I had no issues titling it. The guy I bought it from let it set in his garage since 1999 due to bad health and he bought it in 1980. I'll get a few things ironed out and run it.
 

FlatNv

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i would 2nd your idea and just go with the down, tighten the springs enough plates wont suck down during speed.. cool boat:thumbsup
 

Sangerskier

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Got my cavitation plate pedal assembly all tore apart, kind of an odd setup if you ask me. 4 plates, 3 on one side that make up a gear housing then they run through 2 holes in the stringer through another plate, the whole thing is sandwiched together by 4 bolts. One of the plates has "Challenger" stamped on it. I cut off the up pedal just outboard of the assembly, I have no need for it but I wanted to retain the part that runs through the stringer so the assembly is somewhat sealed up. I haven't decided whether I'm gonna use this stuff or cut a couple plugs for the holes, epoxy them in and glass over it and just buy a new pedal/lockout handle assembly. Has anyone seen a setup like this. IMG_0287.jpg IMG_0289.jpg IMG_0291.jpg
 

MOUZER

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cut the up pedal off u will never need it............
 

MOUZER

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sorry just read u did that........
 

Sangerskier

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Yep I cut the up pedal off, this is a ski boat so Im gonna reuse the mounting hardware and the down pedal, I cleaned up the holes in the stringer there is no wood rot whatsoever, made a plug for the up pedal hole and epoxied it in. Ill glass it when I get off vacation reinstall the assembly with the down pedal and call it a day and move on to the next project and get ut on the water.
Chris
 

coolchange

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My 71 sanger had a similar pedal. But the gears were inside the stringer. Which obviously cra ked the stringer. I would use that set up. I made a stop on the rod next to a bracket that when you put some pedal in it you dropped a spacer in and that held the plate down. If that makes sense?
 

Sangerskier

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My 71 sanger had a similar pedal. But the gears were inside the stringer. Which obviously cra ked the stringer. I would use that set up. I made a stop on the rod next to a bracket that when you put some pedal in it you dropped a spacer in and that held the plate down. If that makes sense?

Yep that makes sense, something like this. Previous said he did this for skiing so he could have others drive it and be a no brainer at skiing speeds. It works well
I've had it out a few times now just testing to see how it reacts to different pedal inputs with the spacer in and out of it.
 

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