c10 or c20 Difference 68-72

Obvious details I know the difference between the two. What I'm wondering is future modifications and parts etc. Ultimately I would like to swap in an LS motor.

What about desirability? Less c20's out there but that might not mean they are more desirable?

I have a c20 in my area that looks okay. I'm tempted because its close by and on the cheaper end. $5000.00

There is also another c10 locally in slightly better shape with an LS1. $14,500

Both are drivers and can be used as a truck, not even close to being show trucks which is what i'm looking for. It might sit outside for a few days, have some shit thrown in the bed etc. This appeals to me since I already have a car I keep in a bubble.

C10 with the LS1

C20

I would go with the C10 it is already done plus a C 20 is a 3/4 ton I believe. That is a good price too.

I'm partial to white. All our cars are white, it's kinda weird.

The c20 is a 3/4 ton so it'll be a regular cab long bed with a 14 bolt rear end and the larger frame rails. I'd think the motor swap should be about the same between the 2. They both had the same engine and trans options (for the most part). If you were building a shoe truck though, a short bed c10 would be my vote.

short bed fleet side c10 will always be worth the most.

You can do alot suspension wise to a coil spring c10. (bags,coil overs,etc...)

C20 are leaf springs.

verify the block/head #'s. Nothing wrong with a 5.3L swap but I wouldn't pay as much vs. a 5.7/6.0 out of one of the cars as a 5.3 is 1/4 the price.(people call everything a ls now days)

All C20's were long beds? This one is short, maybe it was shortened...

4l60e ok behind an LS1?

lakemadness said:

All C20's were long beds? This one is short, maybe it was shortened...

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yes all long beds....

ask for the vin # and then go to the 67-72 trucks forums and they have a vin decoder so you can figure out what you're buying.

Does it have 8 bolt wheels? Never saw a c 20 short. I had a c10 long bed in the day . 68. Still about the best looking truck ever imho.
The only 3)4 ton short beds ive ever seen are old dodge 4by4 forestry trucks. Love to have one of those also.

coolchange said:

Does it have 8 bolt wheels? Never saw a c 20 short. I had a c10 long bed in the day . 68. Still about the best looking truck ever imho.
The only 3)4 ton short beds ive ever seen are old dodge 4by4 forestry trucks. Love to have one of those also.

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Yes, 8 lug.

lakemadness said:

All C20's were long beds? This one is short, maybe it was shortened...

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As far as I know C20's were all long beds or maybe you could buy them without a bed to utilize a utility bed. I agree with CT the C10 SWB will more than likely always be more valuable when comparing apples to apples. Parts options are also much greater with the C10.

lakemadness said:

4l60e ok behind an LS1?

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Yes, thats what came behind them stock when they were an auto

Is the C20 a 4wd? If so where is it located?

lakemadness said:

Yes, 8 lug.

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Cool maybe it was a forestry or dwp type truck. Now with the broad range of tire sizes i always thought a lowered 8 bolt truck with 17 18 or 20s and profile tires would look bad ass with the larger bolt pattern.
I was thinkin the other day, would I buy a new truck?. For half the price a 68 with supercharged ls and bitchen leather interior would suit me just fine.

02HoWaRd26 said:

Is the C20 a 4wd? If so where is it located?

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Its 2wheel

Are you sure thats not a long bed? Looks kinda long in the pic

Cole Trickle said:

short bed fleet side c10 will always be worth the most.

You can do alot suspension wise to a coil spring c10. (bags,coil overs,etc...)

C20 are leaf springs.

verify the block/head #'s. Nothing wrong with a 5.3L swap but I wouldn't pay as much vs. a 5.7/6.0 out of one of the cars as a 5.3 is 1/4 the price.(people call everything a ls now days)

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My 1970 C-20 has trailing arms and coils. It's a custom camper model c-20.

BTW, I wish you still had your c-10, that was a clean truck.

I've never seen a short bed c-20. I have both a 1970 short c-10 and a 1970 long c-20.

Another common occurrence on these trucks and may solve the short/long query is that the frame was cut and shortened. I would not buy a truck with a shortened frame. You would see the cut between rear axle and cab. SPID on glove box door will tell you short or long and the VIN from SPID can be matched to VIN on frame. VIN on frame is located on top side of frame in engine bay in front of driver side exhaust under power steering pump if it has ps.

From what I can see here I would pay the extra money and buy the c-10 short but a visual inspection is always required.

The C20 won't hold nearly as much value because, no one wants a long bed. $5k seems steep to me. I found C20 Cheyenne 4x4 in my neighborhood, running for $500. Did nothing but put $40 of gas in it, drove it home then sold it to some guy for $2,500, 2 weeks later. I probably should have kept it, lifted it then took it to the river, but oh well.

lakemadness said:

4l60e ok behind an LS1?

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Yep that will be solid.

NiceGuyEddie said:

The C20 won't hold nearly as much value because, no one wants a long bed. $5k seems steep to me. I found C20 Cheyenne 4x4 in my neighborhood, running for $500. Did nothing but put $40 of gas in it, drove it home then sold it to some guy for $2,500, 2 weeks later. I probably should have kept it, lifted it then took it to the river, but oh well.

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Someone gave us a Napco C20 (no engine), so I would agree that's steep. It got Jag XJ front and rear suspension, then sold about month after it was finished. That's the only reason to build a C20, if you get it cheap or free and already have the parts lying around to throw at it. We fabricated all the parts for it so it didn't matter, but like others have said the frames are different and they are long beds. You can shorten the frame and bed, but the C10 you posted will be $$$ ahead in the long run.

The C10 you posted is far and away the best value, as far as investment as well as desirability.

To take a decent C10 to that level already done with the LS would cost at least what he is asking, if you did most of the labor yourself.

Most likely would take 2x what he is asking if you had a shop do it right to that level IMO.

02HoWaRd26 said:

Is the C20 a 4wd? If so where is it located?

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C designates 2 wheel drive
K designates 4 wheel drive
except in the Blazer they were all K

420HOA said:

C designates 2 wheel drive
K designates 4 wheel drive
except in the Blazer they were all K

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Really? I never knew or have heard that, cool! I love to learn new shit! :thumbsup

So weird that they would not use the same designation....:headscratch:

I have owned multiple Blazers, all 4wd, I just assumed they used the standard tags.

SBMech said:

Really? I never knew or have heard that, cool! I love to learn new shit! :thumbsup

So weird that they would not use the same designation....:headscratch:

I have owned multiple Blazers, all 4wd, I just assumed they used the standard tags.

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I have a '70 2wd Blazer with a K designation and 6 lug axles
GM used to have an 800 # where they would answer all you vin # questions

I believe all full size Blazers were K series, but 4WD added the 5 designation. My 74 Blazer had K5 emblems with a circle around them on the rear quarters. Also had the Cheyenne emblems. Looked alot like this one, but white exterior and saddle interior. When I bought it some one had installed a newer model console along with a power glass tailgate and Recaro seats out of a Fiero. All the colors matched perfect, like it came that way.

http://findclassicars.com/chevrolet...4x4-cheyenne-16k-original-miles-like-new.html

I would try and get the guy down a little more on the LS swapped 1/2 ton. You will be money ahead even if he doesn't lower the price plus short beds are always worth more then longbeds.