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Water Injection Question

SGettmann

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Hi All-

I recently purchased Bassett Headers and rigged up the water injection. I notice the #2 collector is blowing water out, which is telling me too much water is going to injection system. The observer side is fine - no water leakage out the breather hole. The driver side (#2 exhaust port) is a different story. I unhooked the water to the injection system, ran the headers dry, and no leakage - so not a cracked head. The boat ran great. I pulled the header when I got in and cooled her down - no exhaust leaks between the head, gasket, and header.

Any pointers? Would like to run the water through the headers, but remember my dad never recommending water through the headers with risk of haudrilicing the motor. I have the control valve to control water flow and the T that comes with the headers from Bassett. Plumbing is from motor (out tunnel ram), to hose up to gate valve, back to T spring valve, to header injectors. Also have another hose out the other exit on the tunnel ram going out through the transom .

Thanks for any thoughts. Sean
 

RiverDave

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Sean I've read this twice, and I'm still not quite sure what you are saying.. ??

Are you saying some water is more or less dripping out of the little hole on the bottom of the header?

RD
 

randyjet

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I used to put one of those mini gate valves on each header then I could balance the flow and control the volume. That was the only way I found to get it right I even used a banderlog and still had the problem of balancing side to side the little gate valves work best.
 

DragDad

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"I have the control valve to control water flow and the T that comes with the headers from Bassett. Plumbing is from motor (out tunnel ram), to hose up to gate valve, back to T spring valve, to header injectors."

I'm with the rest of the guys... individual ball valves on each header gives you better control. Water follows the path of least resistance, so if the right header has the lowest pressure drop in the system, it will get more water.
 

Kylemenz1

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On my old Flatty I ran the ball valve selector. But I put it by my seat. That way when I was at idle I would shut the water off. Then when running around I would crank the water up to the desired level. When you are on the gas the water will be forced out and you won't have this problem. Having this amount of water control was very nice.
 

Prime Marine

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Hi All-

I recently purchased Bassett Headers and rigged up the water injection. I notice the #2 collector is blowing water out, which is telling me too much water is going to injection system. The observer side is fine - no water leakage out the breather hole. The driver side (#2 exhaust port) is a different story. I unhooked the water to the injection system, ran the headers dry, and no leakage - so not a cracked head. The boat ran great. I pulled the header when I got in and cooled her down - no exhaust leaks between the head, gasket, and header.

Any pointers? Would like to run the water through the headers, but remember my dad never recommending water through the headers with risk of haudrilicing the motor. I have the control valve to control water flow and the T that comes with the headers from Bassett. Plumbing is from motor (out tunnel ram), to hose up to gate valve, back to T spring valve, to header injectors. Also have another hose out the other exit on the tunnel ram going out through the transom .

Thanks for any thoughts. Sean



Sean,
Have you put the header jets into the end of the inlet fitting? They make many sizes and we always put those in to slow down the water to the nozzles.
Mike @ Prime
 

SGettmann

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Thanks guys - this is the perfect advice that I was looking for. I didn't think about putting an individual gate valve on each host going into the the header injector.

Dave - I had excessive water dripping from the header wheep hole on the #2 exhaust pipe. Its the lowest and shorest feed on the injector. When pulling the header off after running on the trailer, saw water spots up in the exhaust port on the head. Thought I may of had a cracked head. So put back together, ran without water hooked up, and dry - so head was ok. Just a pressure control issue to the header injectors. The individual gate valves should control this.

Sean
 

randyjet

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If your cam has a lot of overlap and the spring is weak in the Bassett valve you can actually draw water back into the cylinder and this is bad that was why I put the gate valves in and made sure the Bassett valve was working right. If you have a radical cam then a Banderlog is a good choice you can have it come on at 2500 Rpm and never worry about the overlap issue.
 

SGettmann

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Sean,
Have you put the header jets into the end of the inlet fitting? They make many sizes and we always put those in to slow down the water to the nozzles.
Mike @ Prime

Thanks Mike - Header jets? Will look into that. Makes sense. All the injector hole are the same size when I looked at it on Sunday. Makes perfect sense. Thanks!! sean
 

fltflyn

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Thanks Mike - Header jets? Will look into that. Makes sense. All the injector hole are the same size when I looked at it on Sunday. Makes perfect sense. Thanks!! sean

Easiest way to do this (IMO) is, take a 1/4" pipe tap and thread the inside of the #8 union where the supply line hooks up. Then take a 1/4" pipe plug and locktite it into the union. Drill a .100" hole in the plug and put it back together. All you need is a mist of water going to the headers. My $.02
 

Jimmy

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Does anyone know at what pressure range this basset valve operates at or be adjusted too?

Do you use a Rex Control Valve inbetween the Basset Valve and Exhaust Headers to control flow? Or are they both standalone and u use one or the other?

How far up the primary tubes do u tap these jets into the exhaust?
 
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