The Outboard Church

Wolly42608 said:

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Here ya go war canoe.....it wont let me attatch pics to a private message.

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The best person to answer the Questions on your big V-8 Outboard

Is Alan Stoker @ Johns Custom Marine Stanton,CA
1 714 827 7920

Ok thanks....I actually took it to him right after i boughf the boat. I will have to replace the transom and service the engine.....all holes are dead even @ 120 and the cylinders look immaculate through the bore scope. I think the engine is in perfect shape but if it blows up in the future i am finding it nearly impossible to find parts. Am i not looking in the right places?

Wolly42608 said:

Ok thanks....I actually took it to him right after i boughf the boat. I will have to replace the transom and service the engine.....all holes are dead even @ 120 and the cylinders look immaculate through the bore scope. I think the engine is in perfect shape but if it blows up in the future i am finding it nearly impossible to find parts. Am i not looking in the right places?

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I am glad you went to see Alan Stoker @ John's Custom Marine

They will fix your boat right ! Glad the bores and compression were good and even.

JCM, would know best about parts, for your monster motor.

The Church loves Stoker boats and has had many of them.

Take your time learning the potential your boat has

Good Luck

Big Steve

Thanks Steve I will do my best and try and do everything right. The boat is not a stoker unfortunately :-( Its a Baker......similar but Al made it clear its not the same lol. I am going to take it to them once I can afford to drop about 4k cuz thats what he qouted me with a motor service and flywheel reolacement (transom too).

Wizard 29 said:

Figured I go to church.

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What are your best speeds? What blades?

How does she handle?

Looks awesome !

War Canoe said:

What are your best speeds? What blades?

How does she handle?

Looks awesome !

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Speeds are being kept secert until we are all dialed in, then there will be a side-by-side write up comparison between mine and the one with the 350 verados. Trying 28p Bblades blasters (4 blade) this weekend. She handles great, still getting used to the tunel and OB's though. Plane's in 9-10 seconds and just eats up the chop.

Wizard 29 said:

Speeds are being kept secert until we are all dialed in, then there will be a side-by-side write up comparison between mine and the one with the 350 verados. Trying 28p Bblades blasters (4 blade) this weekend. She handles great, still getting used to the tunel and OB's though. Plane's in 9-10 seconds and just eats up the chop.

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I spoke with Randy-Nodic at last years Desert Storm.

He said he had some top talent designing a O/B set up !

He knew that the Church had done a couple twin projects !

I told him you were lucky that DBR joe 555 and Dave Bush lives here !!!

I can tell you what will fail if you want !

They only need a couple easy mods, like a gear case vertical shaft seal and vent kit.

We also modify the prop hub, to prevent exhaust gas from melting the plastic sleeve

The best results we found is lift the engine in smooth water tell it drops water pressure. 8-10 psi

The water pressure should pick back up. Once it hits a ripple. The boat may like a even higher X- setting than that

We have put hull water pick ups on 4 of the 10 different 300xs set ups at the Church.

Only because that's what it took to make the boat be happy. Reference mark your lift plates and move in 32" of a inch.

When you corner at speed gently turn in and throttle up the outside motor, set your Mercury Smart craft to show the engine rpm sync bar graph. learn to steer in and crab at the same time.

Big Steve

Wizard 29 said:

Speeds are being kept secert until we are all dialed in, then there will be a side-by-side write up comparison between mine and the one with the 350 verados. Trying 28p Bblades blasters (4 blade) this weekend. She handles great, still getting used to the tunel and OB's though. Plane's in 9-10 seconds and just eats up the chop.

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Love your Nordic. I would like to join the church War Canoe.
I just sold my 25 Daytona with a Pfaff 540. And now chomping at
The bit for my new twin outboard ride to arrive!!! I'm sure I will
Need lots of support W/ my new cat.

BigSteve said:

I spoke with Randy-Nodic at last years Desert Storm.

He said he had some top talent designing a O/B set up !

He knew that the Church had done a couple twin projects !

I told him you were lucky that DBR joe 555 and Dave Bush lives here !!!

I can tell you what will fail if you want !

They only need a couple easy mods, like a gear case vertical shaft seal and vent kit.

We also modify the prop hub, to prevent exhaust gas from melting the plastic sleeve

The best results we found is lift the engine in smooth water tell it drops water pressure. 8-10 psi

The water pressure should pick back up. Once it hits a ripple. The boat may like a even higher X- setting than that

We have put hull water pick ups on 4 of the 10 different 300xs set ups at the Church.

Only because that's what it took to make the boat be happy. Reference mark your lift plates and move in 32" of a inch.

When you corner at speed gently turn in and throttle up the outside motor, set your Mercury Smart craft to show the engine rpm sync bar graph. learn to steer in and crab at the same time.

Big Steve

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Big Steve- that is a lot of info, some of which I have no idea what it means. I would welcome the opportunity to learn more, possibly even help dialing in and getting the most out of her. I'm headed to Havasu tomorrow evening to test a set of 28p Blasters over the weekend...hopefully it won't rain to much.

Thanks,
Mike
480-772-1281

Ace said:

Love your Nordic. I would like to join the church War Canoe.
I just sold my 25 Daytona with a Pfaff 540. And now chomping at
The bit for my new twin outboard ride to arrive!!! I'm sure I will
Need lots of support W/ my new cat.

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Thanks! So what's your new twin OB cat?

Wizard 29 said:

Thanks! So what's your new twin OB cat?

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AMT...

Ace said:

AMT...

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Holy shit! You going racing? That's quite a bit different from your Daytona.

Wizard 29 said:

Holy shit! You going racing? That's quite a bit different from your Daytona.

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Ya, it's slower. I loved that Daytona!!!

Needed something suited for the ocean.
I'll run it in Havasu and Powell also...

Ace said:

Love your Nordic. I would like to join the church War Canoe.
I just sold my 25 Daytona with a Pfaff 540. And now chomping at
The bit for my new twin outboard ride to arrive!!! I'm sure I will
Need lots of support W/ my new cat.

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I really like the boat and set up...post up the details !! :thumbup:

Ace said:

AMT...

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Bitchin!

I'm about anything with a lid on top.... even if its only got a pair of weed eaters on the back.

JT

TEAGUE CUSTOM MARINE said:

Bitchin!

I'm about anything with a lid on top.... even if its only got a pair of weed eaters on the back.

JT

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And thanks for the help with the drive on the Daytona!!!

Very simple boat, 04 AMT raced as Cat Traxx
Pair of 2.5 280 ROS Mercs. 4 seat canopy...

Wizard 29 said:

Speeds are being kept secert until we are all dialed in, then there will be a side-by-side write up comparison between mine and the one with the 350 verados. Trying 28p Bblades blasters (4 blade) this weekend. She handles great, still getting used to the tunel and OB's though. Plane's in 9-10 seconds and just eats up the chop.

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Well the boat DID NOT like the 28p blaster. We got the 600rpm over the 30p we were looking for but lost 5% slip so the speed stayed the same from prop to prop. Time to call Brett and try again. Also going to have him send some bravos next time.

Tried the steering and crabbing...very cool and easier turn at speed!

Wizard 29 said:

Well the boat DID NOT like the 28p blaster. We got the 600rpm over the 30p we were looking for but lost 5% slip so the speed stayed the same from prop to prop. Time to call Brett and try again. Also going to have him send some bravos next time.

Tried the steering and crabbing...very cool and easier turn at speed!

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The Blaster is a great prop ! I would like to see how Razor's 28 Skater would run with them.

I enjoy my 28 blaster in the tight back water corners of the delta :thumbup:

The Bravo's should work better for your bigger and heavier hull. The bravos produce, more bow lift.

I like a prop that gives me the best control, Overall. The Bravo, is a hard to beat out of the box prop.

If your boat likes the Bravo blades, keep dialing in your set up i.e. set back and x height

Post a few pictures or PM of the hull running at full speed from the side view .



Brett is very sharp, with more good data.

You might discuss having him do his magic to a pair of Hydromotive Props


Your slip # 11-12% range on bravos

Who besides Al Stoker can help me with my 1987 Johnson v8?

Great event ... I'll post some pics later.

Wolly42608 said:

Who besides Al Stoker can help me with my 1987 Johnson v8?

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What do you need?

I am looking to have the flywheel pulled and the repaired due to the magnets loosing thier bond underneath from mild corrosion and a general tuneup/service

I'm sure any reputable shop can handle that, especially anyone with OMC experience. John's Custom Marine (Stoker) is certainly a first pick if you are in that area.

Just saw that you're in Ridgecrest. If your boat is there also the closest place I know of is Apple Valley Marine.

Thanks Rick...I will check them out. Al said he can do the repairs so if I can get it down there that would be my first choice too.

We may DOUBLE the trouble for the competition :champagne:

ANYBODY RUNNING THE 336 ??

or are you sitting on the sand ...AGAIN ?

Looking to improve our sled as well, but you guys keep buying all the good shit on Scream and Fly... We need help, is Wild Bill available for consultation?

By the way ,do you still have our trophy from 2 years ago?

Steve Linder
Team L3 #312

After the 2012 race Tony and Bill both got a Stoker

The Rev and I were just with Wild Bill, testing his Stoker today.
It will run a 100 easy and should pull a speed skier 90

Why don't you come up Nor Cal and we will find you some more speed !

Wild Bill, is very sharp on set up !

I think your award, is at the race shop.

The 20 Stoker project boat

It sports a 3.3 Liter 300 hp HPDI Yamaha, Wayne Worth the Yamaha guru fixed us up with a Stage 3 kit base kit
i.e. heads, reeds, tuner and solid motor mount kit. All the gaskets screws washers ect

Then we had the flywheel lightened several #s , added a intake spacer plate, bored the 6 throttle bodies, installed thin carbon fiber blades and a velocity stacks

Cut 4" out of the mid section and clamp bracket.

Modified the gear case to a lower water pick up with a nose cone and shaped it
Installed a 1 1/4 prop shaft shaft and HD bearing carrier

A custom made 1 1/4" thick set back bracket thats fully adjustable

Power steering ! With a tad bit more power than the stock 300

Gawwwwwwd Dayyyyyum! :yikes

That's about all I have to say about that!!

Beautiful!

Henry

BigSteve said:

After the 2012 race Tony and Bill both got a Stoker

The Rev and I were just with Wild Bill, testing his Stoker today.
It will run a 100 easy and should pull a speed skier 90

Why don't you come up Nor Cal and we will find you some more speed !

Wild Bill, is very sharp on set up !

I think your award, is at the race shop.

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Going to work with the Master "Wild Bill" on Saturday.
We modified the hulls running surface, going to see how it works out.

Our goal is getting the boat to take a stable set at all speeds and water conditions
with very little use of any trim input.

We will see

We have been doing a few mods to our 22 daytona
Took off the 275 Verado and re rigged it with a early high rpm 250 xs

We tested it today it ran 79 mph 6250 rpm 1.62 gear using a box stock 24 Bravo
Full interior and 50 gal fuel on board. And a wild ass guess on the set up !
I can see 85mph with the right prop


The boat is getting a multi roll make over. We ordered a forward leaning arch tower w /the over top bimini. It comes on and off with 4 quick release pins or tilts with 2 removed.

The Daytona in the background in post 129 &130

We will have a couple custom clamp brackets made for a barefoot boom.
The tower allows the ski rope to clear the Opti Max for skiing or boarding

We have lenco tabs over the tunnels 18" x 12" on the boat. We going to add a center tab and use a
water sack in the nose

Have a couple ideas on how we can make a 16 x 11 prop work on the Opti Max for
wakeboarding.

My little brother picked up a 60' houseboat it will be a nice complement. It will be a big plus storing the tower, barefoot boom and props. When not in use on the houseboat.

With 4 quick pins and or prop change the boat is suitable doing many things well

22 Daytona update

The Monster tower removes with 4 quick releases in minutes.

We found a great deal on a used 200 merc,going to put it on my brothers houseboat

I have an old style teleflex dual cable rack and pinion style steering. I replaced one cable and rebuilt the entire helm......steering is really smooth now. My concern is that after speaking with the tech at seastar solutions he said that the way my steering is rigged is all wrong. My cables are running down both sides of the boat and apposing oneanother at the rack. He says they should run down the same side and not appose eachother. I dont see how this could be a problem but I am worried now. Also he said that dual cable steering should not be used on an engine this size especially anything over 60 MPH. Any info on this setup would be great. My next question is I was told by the engine guy to disconnect my engine interupt switch that goes into the power pack from the shift linkage. I have tried unplugging the whole thing and that just causes half the cylinders to drop.......is there a way to disconnect it without dropping half the cylinders. Lastly he instructed me to disconnect the safety switch at the shifter next to the driver so I can start the boat in gear (prevent wear on gears/crash box as he calls it) I am all for this because I just rebuilt my lower unit with seals and a new dog clutch. Any advice on these matters would be greatly appreciated. :thumbsup

Wolly42608 said:

I have an old style teleflex dual cable rack and pinion style steering. I replaced one cable and rebuilt the entire helm......steering is really smooth now. My concern is that after speaking with the tech at seastar solutions he said that the way my steering is rigged is all wrong. My cables are running down both sides of the boat and apposing oneanother at the rack. He says they should run down the same side and not appose eachother. I dont see how this could be a problem but I am worried now. Also he said that dual cable steering should not be used on an engine this size especially anything over 60 MPH. Any info on this setup would be great. My next question is I was told by the engine guy to disconnect my engine interupt switch that goes into the power pack from the shift linkage. I have tried unplugging the whole thing and that just causes half the cylinders to drop.......is there a way to disconnect it without dropping half the cylinders. Lastly he instructed me to disconnect the safety switch at the shifter next to the driver so I can start the boat in gear (prevent wear on gears/crash box as he calls it) I am all for this because I just rebuilt my lower unit with seals and a new dog clutch. Any advice on these matters would be greatly appreciated. :thumbsup

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The Hydraulic steering system is the prefered over cable as the speeds get higher.

We just replaced a dual cable mess on a Stoker w/ 300 Yamaha

To a Sea Star hydraulic helm with a remote power steering pump assy for one finger steering system.

The key to making a outboard work is being able to maintain control of the rudder.

The bigger O/B motors generate big prop torque # combined with surfacing tall pitch props make it to difficult control without power steering

No bobble heads allowed, we start by checking and or replacing motor mounts with solid ones.

Inner transom mounting bracing and rigging. Most of the time it done very poor and half ass !

We prefer to use a R&R manual jack plate so we can clamp it down solid over hydraulic jack plates

that always have some give and slop.

Starting a bigger prop boats in gear is prefered to shifting them.Neutral safety switch is a safety issue, so the general public uses them for the clueless.

They can be left in place for everybody else and you can have your own push button override starter switch to jump the circuit.

A few dollars well spent and you will enjoy your driving and boating experience

Be sure and take a straight edge and check the last three ft of the running surface it should be flat

Hooks, kill speed and screw up a good set up

Thanks Steve,

I have my work cut out for me..... I bought an old 21' baker (supposedly jerry bakers personal boat) that I have to un Mickey Mouse if ya know what I mean.

I am in the market for a jack plate because apparently the one I have is not rated for this engine and the guides are shot...so it will be a bobble head for sure. Would not know yet because I am having issues with the engine. When I get on the throttle it just bogs and dies, I just purchased different main jets because as far as I can tell this engine is stock and running 0.081" jets .....stock are 0.065" this is why I was asking about the engine interrupt switch.....the engine guy told me this may be causing it to bog if not working correctly. I am no where near getting the boat dialed and putting levels on the running surface :-( I would be happy just to get it up on plane at this point.......very depressing....especially since I could have bought a turn key stoker for what I have already invested :-( but it's my turd and by God I am gonna polish it lol.....maybe even put a point on it ha ha.

Wolly42608 said:

Thanks Steve,

I have my work cut out for me..... I bought an old 21' baker (supposedly jerry bakers personal boat) that I have to un Mickey Mouse if ya know what I mean.

I am in the market for a jack plate because apparently the one I have is not rated for this engine and the guides are shot...so it will be a bobble head for sure. Would not know yet because I am having issues with the engine. When I get on the throttle it just bogs and dies, I just purchased different main jets because as far as I can tell this engine is stock and running 0.081" jets .....stock are 0.065" this is why I was asking about the engine interrupt switch.....the engine guy told me this may be causing it to bog if not working correctly. I am no where near getting the boat dialed and putting levels on the running surface :-( I would be happy just to get it up on plane at this point.......very depressing....especially since I could have bought a turn key stoker for what I have already invested :-( but it's my turd and by God I am gonna polish it lol.....maybe even put a point on it ha ha.

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I would be very careful changing jets , There is a huge difference between a .081 and .065 jet.

Alan Stoker @ Johns Custom Marina, is your best bet on getting that motor dialed in safely.

Plus they are the experts on the type of boat you have on set up. :thumbsup

Good luck on your Baker project,

Our Stoker project turned out great with a little love a lot of elbow grease and a couple tips from Al Stoker.

Wow that stoker is beautiful.......pristine to say the least. I am far from that lol..that thing makes mine look like a pile. Well i took it out to the lake and it still bogs hard...i took your advice and left the jets at .081. I am now elbows deep in the intake. After removing all the carbs and throttle bodies i discovered the reeds are damaged and a few of the ports on the throttle bodies were clogged.....so i ordered new boyeson power reeds and i am thoroughly cleaning the throttle assemblies. Also the float height was way off (too low) needless to say i think after all this work it should be night and day......it might actually pass as a boat.

1999 Mercury 2.5 280 HP drop on ... Un molested block, no welds. Stock electronics, Top Pin pistons. Work done by JSRE.

$6,500.00 for drop on

$7,000.00 for drop on with clean cowl , pan and chaps.

Call Scott
530-712-5211

Still no luck after replacing the reeds and cleaning the throttle bodies......still bogs out and dies when i give it throttle....it also doesnt really want to idle when under load (700-800rpm) i have to hit the enrichener all the time to keep it going....very odd :-( I have not checked the timing but it was just at Als outboard (havasu) and he fixed my flywheel so i am assuming he did it right l?

I am looking to purchase a used clean 300x anyone have a line on one?

My little man getting some good reading in.

138 said:

I am looking to purchase a used clean 300x anyone have a line on one?

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I would like one also :thumbsup

Ripping with Dales 28 Skater :skull

We had Church Dog hunting :thumbsup

Wolly42608 said:

Still no luck after replacing the reeds and cleaning the throttle bodies......still bogs out and dies when i give it throttle....it also doesnt really want to idle when under load (700-800rpm) i have to hit the enrichener all the time to keep it going....very odd :-( I have not checked the timing but it was just at Als outboard (havasu) and he fixed my flywheel so i am assuming he did it right l?

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Timing adjusts the idle on those... Might check to see if the carbs are stock. I have the big bore carbs on mine, the venturis are large enough that the carbs have a hard time working at low idle & act similar. Might also check compression, low compression could also have the same affect. I have to run a fast idle to keep the fuel going, only drop down the rpm to shift. If you're having to hit the enrichener to keep it going, be careful, engine is most likely running lean & not getting oil either.

Thanks Faceaz i will maybe mess with the timing this weekend. I think i have an air leak on the carb body gasket between the intake and carbs because i tightened the bolts more to try and squesh the old gasket and i finally got the boat on plane it was still a struggle but once on plane and in the higher rpm the boat runs and sounds amazing. The boat has 130# comp across all 8 and i just installed a holly blue pump with a regulator. I need to get a fuel pressure gauge cuz i have no idea where its at. I just turned it one turn out from the factory setting. They come from the factory preset to 14psi (too much) also I am not sure what carbs they are because the numbers on the sticker are worn off :-( but on the side of the carb body/venturi is stamped a number 397340 and my air bleeds are idle:29 mid:36 main:80

Ok so i ran those numbers on the carbs and it looks as if they are the big bore carbs.....so maybe i have the jetting wrong....I heard i may have to plug the mids?

Is it a 3.6L? With that compression I'm guessing it is. Get a fuel pressure gauge on it, you're in the dark till you do. Should be set it around 4-5psi. I would replace the carb gaskets, they are o-ring type & shouldn't need to be torqued down too much. Those carbs are also plastic, so too much torque can crack them. An air leak is very bad for these engines, it creates a lean condition where the engine isn't getting oil. Once you do those couple things, see how it runs. If it still is way off at idle, I would look at your low speed jet. It's the lower of the 2 jets if you're looking at the face of the carb. 29 seems a bit small, I would suggest down around 22 - 24 - but that was experience with a 4.0L so yours could react a bit different. The smaller the jet #, the more fuel you will get for the low & mid jet. For the main jet in the float bowl, it's the opposite - larger the number = more fuel.

Yep i ordered new gaskets just now and yes i believe it is a 3.6 the model# is a J275TCLOS....I will get a pressure gauge this week and maybe try and get some smaller air bleeds for the mid and idle....