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DCB F 34/ WHY

JRider

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I have the 04 f34 with N/a big blocks and xr drives, bravo 1 30p 4 blade props, only had it out once but on glassy water I started to get a slight hop around 90-95, nothing bad at all

Is this the white with blue and gray stripes?
 

Wright Brothers

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I was hoping to find some better pics of the bottom. I'm thinking the strakes are offset of each other. This is another pic of that area bUT it's not the best. I need better lighting. You would think I'd get a call from DCB informing me there's been a recall on my hull. Lol. This is the type of stuff that kills people. How much heavier do you think the 400 trans is compared to bam and it's hook up parts? I can pick the tranny up,,, I don't care to but I can. 150lbs??
 

Wright Brothers

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I was hoping to find some better pics of the bottom. I'm thinking the strakes are offset of each other. This is another pic of that area bUT it's not the best. I need better lighting. You would think I'd get a call from DCB informing me there's been a recall on my hull. Lol. This is the type of stuff that kills people. How much heavier do you think the 400 trans is compared to bam and it's hook up parts? I can pick the tranny up,,, I don't care to but I can. 150lbs??
 

JRider

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That rear most strake is offset outboard, mine are all in line. Not sure exactly what effect it has, a lot of the hulls I looked at have the strakes going outboard like that on the last few steps. Maybe Azgeo can tell us some theory on that.
 

TEAGUE CUSTOM MARINE

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I was hoping to find some better pics of the bottom. I'm thinking the strakes are offset of each other. This is another pic of that area bUT it's not the best. I need better lighting. You would think I'd get a call from DCB informing me there's been a recall on my hull. Lol. This is the type of stuff that kills people. How much heavier do you think the 400 trans is compared to bam and it's hook up parts? I can pick the tranny up,,, I don't care to but I can. 150lbs??

The overall weight of the trans is not the issue it's the engine placement as result of the transmission change.
 

TEAGUE CUSTOM MARINE

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Kieth, are your strakes all in line with each other? It looks like the rearmost are outboard of the forward strakes.

My boat does have the shallower tunnels as Skidoc says. Really we are dealing with somewhat different boats here, Skidocs had SCX drives no transmissions with deep tunnels no pod (not sure on his motor placement), Wrightbrothers has deep tunnels w center pod #6s with turbo 400s and somewhat aft motor placement, and my boat with shallow tunnels with pod, driveline #6s and motor placement 7" farther forward than Wrightbrothers.

My boat looks to be almost identical to the one that rolled in Pennsylvania which is the same boat that teague setup. My boat seems to be pretty damn good, still does not like calm water as in the video below. 1 to 2' chop it loves. I hear horror stories of 3 to 4' hops, mine just doesnt seem to do that.

At the 3 minute mark I started putting it down and I liked that attitude of the boat, this was the day I really got the seat time and learned the boat. After this trip I straight edged the bottom to the drives and tabs then marked the indicators for neautral. It helped a lot the next time out.

Start at the 3 minute mark, straight up on the center gauge is 120, somewhere that day I made it to 127 on the recall.
[video=youtube;cqzDOeld5x8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqzDOeld5x8&t=360s[/video]

Go to the half way point and I cruize at 100 and maybe hit 120 after the 10min mark.
[video=youtube;Mwl1ZXY9vq8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mwl1ZXY9vq8[/video]

I figured the T400 trans would result in the motor further forward.... hmmmmmm.

What props are you currently running JRider?
 

AzGeo

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not only 'strake size' (cross section of lifting surface), but also 'placement on the deadrise' to control 'how much lift and how high' .

The width part is pretty self explanatory, there is also 'down angle' (usually 1 to 1 1/2 degrees), and placement can be used to never have the tail drive over the nose .

The balance may need 4" wide strakes to lift a large amount of 'tail weight and prop leverage', but the bottom has 'small steps', or 'forward strakes UP the deadrise' as well .

If the strakes on the forward steps are 4" from the 'keel line', you would not add rear strakes any closer than that '4"' to the rear of the sponsons .

Often hulls will have a few strakes 'in line' and the rear most, slightly up the deadrise . This allows more 'false rocker' than just the minimal amount of 'step' showing, and allows more wetted surface for control .

Other bottoms may have all the strakes staggered (and different widths too) , and this is to optimize a 'false rocker', and to naturally ride with 'more wetted surface' under the strakes as the boat comes up and on top of rough waters .

Wide strakes or double strakes 'up front', are for 're-entry', and strakes 'outside the crankshaft centerlines', are for 'turning' .

Right or wrong, this is basically how I see and use strakes on these kinds of boats .................
 

SkiDoc

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IMG_3048.jpg IMG_3047.jpg IMG_2997.jpg IMG_2524.jpg IMG_1373.jpg
The first two photos are of the 34 that killed its owner in Pennsylvania. More similar to J. Riders. The other photo is of a Spectre 36 that someone filled in the transom notch. Feel is better design than Wright's rocker plates which allow entrapped air to escape and is potentially dangerous as the transom "smears" around in a turn. You can see that I put my engines nearly touching the "firewall"
 

AzGeo

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That 'notch filler' is interesting .

Is it just hollow, or does it have an 'inlet' to those rectangular holes ?

That certainly uncovers the props ........
 

JRider

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I figured the T400 trans would result in the motor further forward.... hmmmmmm.

What props are you currently running JRider?

The props that came on it, they look to be original as I dug up a pic from when the boat was new. They are old school 4 blade 32 x 16.25 x 15*rake. Pulling numbers from the video, 1.24 drive 5200rpm at 120mph I am at 6% slip...seems pretty good.

I bought a set of 16" x 33 x 16* round ear 5 blades, when it was rough and loaded heavy the boat liked them, otherwise in calm water the boat started launching out of the water at a 100...not my idea of fun. I want to try a pair of high rake 5 blades to see how they work, if they work better I may spring for them. If there is no improvement I can live with the 4 blades.
 

SkiDoc

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That 'notch filler' is interesting .

Is it just hollow, or does it have an 'inlet' to those rectangular holes ?

That certainly uncovers the props ........

Doing this is based on the premise that the longer the running ares is the less the boat can rock fore and aft on it's CG. Which is for sure a truth. Compensation may be necessary with prop depth. In reality this has not been necessary.
 

Wright Brothers

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Doing this is based on the premise that the longer the running ares is the less the boat can rock fore and aft on it's CG. Which is for sure a truth. Compensation may be necessary with prop depth. In reality this has not been necessary.

We use to run a 46 nor tech and they made different size filler plates to where they just basically filled the whole deal in like that one pic. That is wild. The original owner said he made those plates 2 different lengths and he said he felt if they could go back longer he would have.
 

Wheeler

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This is what a boating site should be. :thumbsup:thumbsup
 

Wright Brothers

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We use to run a 43 nor tech and they made different size filler plates to where they just basically filled the whole deal in like that one pic. That is wild. The original owner said he made those plates 2 different lengths and he said he felt if they could go back longer he would have.

And I understand the air issue with the props now and possibly those plates I have.
 

Wright Brothers

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Doing this is based on the premise that the longer the running ares is the less the boat can rock fore and aft on it's CG. Which is for sure a truth. Compensation may be necessary with prop depth. In reality this has not been necessary.
I have 1/2 inch spacers for drives if I need later. There's a lot going on with this boat. I'm going to play with it for a little bit and see how it goes, if I don't ever get to a point where I feel safe in it then it's gotta go. DCB doesn't hold any liability it an unsafe hull being produced? I shouldn't say that. I thought BOAT stood for ( bust out another thousand?) not bust out a torch. Thank you for the help and the pictures. And I'm glad to know there people out there trying to help with all kinds of issues. I'm learning here, that's the main thing.
 

GMD

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One of the ways to get an F34 to handle is to lighten it up. I took weight out of the front and did an open bow. Boat has No porpoise. I have a video somewhere that we are cruising up river at 85-95 mph and there is no porpoise.
I sold the boat last year but if I kept it I would have had the first 10 feet of the hull lightened up more. It is WAY overbuilt and heavy. Even though my F34 no longer porpoised, when coming down in speed I could still tell it was heavy in the front.
I wouldn't mess with any bottom work on one of these boats. It's all about the weight and aerodynamics.
I also set the tab up so it no longer went down as the boat no longer needed it to stop the porpoise.
I'll tell you though, at 130+ that boat was on rails!
 

CLA

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One of the ways to get an F34 to handle is to lighten it up. I took weight out of the front and did an open bow. Boat has No porpoise. I have a video somewhere that we are cruising up river at 85-95 mph and there is no porpoise.
I sold the boat last year but if I kept it I would have had the first 10 feet of the hull lightened up more. It is WAY overbuilt and heavy. Even though my F34 no longer porpoised, when coming down in speed I could still tell it was heavy in the front.
I wouldn't mess with any bottom work on one of these boats. It's all about the weight and aerodynamics.
I also set the tab up so it no longer went down as the boat no longer needed it to stop the porpoise.
I'll tell you though, at 130+ that boat was on rails!

I would think the open bow would add weight. Wow.
 
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