Electrical Help Needed

[ChiliPepperGarage]

Our air compressor at one of our fire stations crapped out so we got a new one and I'm trying to wire it up. There is an upper box and a lower box. The upper box is just an on - off box. The lower box has what appears to be a breaker of some sort (smart breaker?)

The old compressor had separate wires for the motor and regulator. The new compressor has only wires to the regulator. The motor is wired to the regulator.

I disconnected the old compressor and wired the new one from the regulator to the same terminals as the old compressor motor connections. When I turned on the power nothing happens.

I'm thinking I have to wire it differently but not sure how at this point and trying to avoid the cost of hiring an electrician (we are a volunteer department).

I thought about wiring it it to L1 & L2 but then thought I wouldn't have a breaker. Maybe I should connect the white and black to where the old compressor regulator wires were? One went to L1 and the other to the slide connector (see photos)?

Maybe I need to just get a new breaker and replace this one?

Thanks.

 

[wishiknew]

Our air compressor at one of our fire stations crapped out so we got a new one and I'm trying to wire it up. There is an upper box and a lower box. The upper box is just an on - off box. The lower box has what appears to be a breaker of some sort (smart breaker?)

The old compressor had separate wires for the motor and regulator. The new compressor has only wires to the regulator. The motor is wired to the regulator.

I disconnected the old compressor and wired the new one from the regulator to the same terminals as the old compressor motor connections. When I turned on the power nothing happens.

I'm thinking I have to wire it differently but not sure how at this point and trying to avoid the cost of hiring an electrician (we are a volunteer department).

I thought about wiring it it to L1 & L2 but then thought I wouldn't have a breaker. Maybe I should connect the white and black to where the old compressor regulator wires were? One went to L1 and the other to the slide connector (see photos)?

Maybe I need to just get a new breaker and replace this one?

Thanks. View attachment 628734 View attachment 628735 View attachment 628737 View attachment 628738 View attachment 628739 View attachment 628740 View attachment 628741 View attachment 628742

post a picture of the label on the motor of the new compessor

 

[Rayson1971]

That is a contactor. The coil in the front where the old wires from the regulator went , when powered up closed the contacts and energized the compressor. You could bypass the contactor and wire it from the disconnect to the regulator.

 

[Rayson1971]

If you wanna talk on the phone pm me and I can walk you thru it

 

[Heylam]

And make sure you have someone with a defribillator standing by. Lol


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[wishiknew]

That is a contactor. The coil in the front where the old wires from the regulator went , when powered up closed the contacts and energized the compressor. You could bypass the contactor and wire it from the disconnect to the regulator.

unless it is not thermaly protected motor that is a nonfused disco

 

[ChiliPepperGarage]

That is a contactor. The coil in the front where the old wires from the regulator went , when powered up closed the contacts and energized the compressor. You could bypass the contactor and wire it from the disconnect to the regulator.

If I bypass it I won't have a breaker in the circuit will I? I didn't trace the line from the cut off back to the main breaker box but I guess there would be a breaker there too? I'll check that out tomorrow when I go back to the station (unless we have a call tonight!).

If I wired it like the old compressor regulator would the white wire go to the spade connector on the front and the black wire to L1 or does it make a difference?

Thanks.

 

[ChiliPepperGarage]

post a picture of the label on the motor of the new compessor

I'll have to get one tomorrow. I'm back home now.

 

[ChiliPepperGarage]

And make sure you have someone with a defribillator standing by. Lol


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We have an rescue ambulance in that station but I'm working alone so maybe I should hook it up to me while I'm working just in case!

 

[JBS]

No matter what you do not have a breaker pictured. You have a starter in the bottom box. You probably have a starter on the new compressor. If so go direct to the bottom of the disconnect with your wires. With that said the wire feeding the disconnect needs to be fused or a breaker. Make sure it is sized right.

 

[Rayson1971]

From what I can see need to take a wire from the second side of the regulator to the coil

 

[ChiliPepperGarage]

No matter what you do not have a breaker pictured. You have a starter in the bottom box. You probably have a starter on the new compressor. If so go direct to the bottom of the disconnect with your wires. With that said the wire feeding the disconnect needs to be fused or a breaker. Make sure it is sized right.

Yes, I think that is the case. This is the regulator on the new compressor. The left side goes to the motor and the right side goes to the electrical box. More than likely, there is a breaker at the main box which I will check tomorrow. The disconnect box has two blue wires going to L1 & L2 on the top of the starter in the lower box. Should I connect the black and white from the new compressor to those two connections? Does it make any difference which goes to which?

 

[Ouderkirk]

What you have is a 3-phase non-fused knife switch disconnect to a motor starter/relay box. There should be a circuit breaker at the supply panel and you should examine the load rating on that breaker to make sure that it is not too far over the current draw of the new compressor. You also want to be sure that is is not a 3-phase supply breaker.

I would replace the relay box with a twist-lock plug so that you can disconnect the new compressor without tools.


Also, you should also label the box to indicate the supply source panel and the breaker per NEC 2008 code.

 

[Taboma]

More than likely the regulator is performing the starter function on the compressor. It's wired in line, there's no coil wire leaving the new regulator.
There's a lot of unknowns here, I like to see a better ground, I don't like the missing KO's --- blah blah blah
So the disclaimer is, I'm not going to offer assistance ---- BUT, if I were to hypothetically draw this on a napkin, because somebody someplace was asking me how make this run
I'd draw a wire between either L1 or L2 from the LOAD side (Upper box -- Bottom terminals with blue wires) of the disconnect to the vacant terminal on the starter coil (lower box -- where the regulator wire used to go) --- then when you energize the disconnect, the coil on the starter will pull in allowing the regulator to control the compressor motor start-stop.
I have no idea of any other number of things is right about this -- but that will allow the compressor to run.
But you didn't read this from me

 

[ChiliPepperGarage]

What you have is a 3-phase non-fused knife switch disconnect to a motor starter/relay box. There should be a circuit breaker at the supply panel and you should examine the load rating on that breaker to make sure that it is not too far over the current draw of the new compressor. You also want to be sure that is is not a 3-phase supply breaker.

I would replace the relay box with a twist-lock plug so that you can disconnect the new compressor without tools.


Also, you should also label the box to indicate the supply source panel and the breaker per NEC 2008 code.

Okay, you must be an electrician (where is the thumbs up thingy when you need it?).

This makes all sense. I'll check the breaker tomorrow and may have to replace it with a regular 220V breaker if it is a 3 phase breaker. I like your idea of using the twist lock plug as well.

Thanks.

 

[Taboma]

What you have is a 3-phase non-fused knife switch disconnect to a motor starter/relay box. There should be a circuit breaker at the supply panel and you should examine the load rating on that breaker to make sure that it is not too far over the current draw of the new compressor. You also want to be sure that is is not a 3-phase supply breaker.

I would replace the relay box with a twist-lock plug so that you can disconnect the new compressor without tools.


Also, you should also label the box to indicate the supply source panel and the breaker per NEC 2008 code.

You sound like me when I go over to my buddy's custom car shop. I could start at one end and by the time I get to another I'd have a book covering just about everything somebody could do wrong electrically --- and yet by some miracle, the shit runs and only occasionally does he YELP when he gets bit. Breakers trip, sparks fly, I cringe, duck and run --- and then start laughing completely out of control. I've tried everything, given every warning, even rewired shit for free just cuz I couldn't take it anymore.
Yet, next trip back, I'll find 30' of MC cable draped over boxes, run across the floor and wired to some new piece of equipment he just had to get running in some emergency. Electrically, the place is a nightmare, he doesn't give even one fuck.
So I have a beer, we laugh, I try his latest moonshine, we laugh, I walk out shaking my head hoping he doesn't burn or get electrocuted. I've asked him about the fire marshal visits, he laughs and tells me the guy loves his moonshine
At least in this case, we've got trained paramedics, fire trucks and lots of fire extinguishers

 

[Taboma]

Okay, you must be an electrician (where is the thumbs up thingy when you need it?).

This makes all sense. I'll check the breaker tomorrow and may have to replace it with a regular 220V breaker if it is a 3 phase breaker. I like your idea of using the twist lock plug as well.

Thanks.

Yes you can do all that, but assuming this compressor is the same size as the last one, the breaker will more than likely work. If you want to pass inspection, then yes it matter is the breaker has three poles instead of two -- in the real world, so what if the breaker has one empty terminal --- it doesn't matter. If you install a twist lock, get the right size and proper configuration, also install it on the load side of that disconnect, so somebody doesn't unplug it with the compressor running or worse, plug it in with the regulator asking the compressor to run. You want it to run --- then add this red wire, simple. When you energize the disconnect, the starter will pull in and it will run. When air pressure is satisfied, the regulator will open and the compressor will stop -- it's that simple.
Good luck, over and out

 

[Jimmy]

Yes you can do all that, but assuming this compressor is the same size as the last one, the breaker will more than likely work. If you want to pass inspection, then yes it matter is the breaker has three poles instead of two -- in the real world, so what if the breaker has one empty terminal --- it doesn't matter. If you install a twist lock, get the right size and proper configuration, also install it on the load side of that disconnect, so somebody doesn't unplug it with the compressor running or worse, plug it in with the regulator asking the compressor to run. You want it to run --- then add this red wire, simple. When you energize the disconnect, the starter will pull in and it will run. When air pressure is satisfied, the regulator will open and the compressor will stop -- it's that simple.
Good luck, over and out

View attachment 628758

Do u guys need earth leakage if ur going to put an outlet on the wall?
When u say "twist lock" is that a decontactor plug?

 

[Flying_Lavey]

I just installed a vertical compressor like that in a winery a couple weeks ago. We do it frequently for their barrel room mister systems.

Lose the starter (bottom panel) and wire straight into the disconnect load side. Verify the breaker is correct for the load of the new motor. Also make sure the compressor pressure switch (it's not a regulator, that for the air side to reduce pressure to a workable PSI) is at a useable PSI. The last one we got had a 175psi switch it in which means the tanks was feeding a constant 175 psi which is FAR too much for most applications.

And BTW, there is no need for the twist lock as that disconnect is a tool-less disconnect.

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[Advantage 1]

I just learned a bunch about electronics on my boat... keep your Perko switch to "OFF" when installing

 

[highvoltagehands]

Chili, It Looks like you got a nice new Ingersoll Rand unit w/pressure reg and on/off switch mounted in reg housing. Sooo, There are few different ways to hook this up right and whole bunch of ways to hook up wrong. It's not difficult hookup, and one of us can talk you thru it, but I'd need couple of pictures first. One of Compressor nameplate(one of the motor nameplate will help if main one is lacking info), And a close up photo of Electric Panel breaker w/sticker label that feeds it. The nameplates are important because tells HP, Voltage, FL & RL Amps and most importantly if motor is thermally protected w/OL button. Then we can determine if existing breaker & wire are correct size, if that starter is needed, and whether to hardwire into disconnect or use 250v 2pole 3wire twist lock cord and receptacle.

 

[Ouderkirk]

And BTW, there is no need for the twist lock as that disconnect is a tool-less disconnect.

You're right the twist-lock disconnect is not necessary, but I like to have them for things like this. Just for piece of mind I like to be able to completely disconnect for service.

 

[Taboma]

Do u guys need earth leakage if ur going to put an outlet on the wall?
When u say "twist lock" is that a decontactor plug? View attachment 628773

Jimmy a GFCI (American speak for earth leakage) receptacle or breaker would not be required in this application. Their requirement in commercial applications is limited, unlike in the home where it's assumed we're going to be standing in water sticking paper clips in receptacles (Sorry, I'm "Lead paint" ole school and somehow survived).
The disconnecting pin and sleeve receptacles as per your example are mostly used in industrial applications, especially more hazardous environments, where an arc could cause grain dust (One example) to ignite. Amperage dependent, could cost more than his new compressor.

 

[Joe mama]

Use a little from each response and you will be good to go. Lol

 

[Taboma]

I just installed a vertical compressor like that in a winery a couple weeks ago. We do it frequently for their barrel room mister systems.

Lose the starter (bottom panel) and wire straight into the disconnect load side. Verify the breaker is correct for the load of the new motor. Also make sure the compressor pressure switch (it's not a regulator, that for the air side to reduce pressure to a workable PSI) is at a useable PSI. The last one we got had a 175psi switch it in which means the tanks was feeding a constant 175 psi which is FAR too much for most applications.

And BTW, there is no need for the twist lock as that disconnect is a tool-less disconnect.

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For sure correct, the starter in this case is completely redundant. If it were mine, I certainly wouldn't bother with the receptacle, it serves no real purpose.

 

[Taboma]

Chili, It Looks like you got a nice new Ingersoll Rand unit w/pressure reg and on/off switch mounted in reg housing. Sooo, There are few different ways to hook this up right and whole bunch of ways to hook up wrong. It's not difficult hookup, and one of us can talk you thru it, but I'd need couple of pictures first. One of Compressor nameplate(one of the motor nameplate will help if main one is lacking info), And a close up photo of Electric Panel breaker w/sticker label that feeds it. The nameplates are important because tells HP, Voltage, FL & RL Amps and most importantly if motor is thermally protected w/OL button. Then we can determine if existing breaker & wire are correct size, if that starter is needed, and whether to hardwire into disconnect or use 250v 2pole 3wire twist lock cord and receptacle.

This of course is the right way to approach this and how a qualified electrician would conduct business. Hopefully Chili will take your offer and or another previous similar offer(s), but the best course would have been to pick up the phone and call a contractor in the first place.
If anybody does speak with Chili, have him put two 3/4" KO seals in the top of that disconnect, spend a couple of $$ on a proper cord strain relief, and since the ground is dependent on the conduit, check the lock nuts on both ends for tightness (At a minimum).

My bet is, if this compressor is the same size (HP) and since it comes with a pre-wired pressure switch and pre-wired cord, connecting the cord to the load side of the disconnect or jumpering the coil in the redundant starter, will fire that puppy up and he'll have air. Of course there's always the "Right Way" pick one

Why aren't you up on a pole somewhere ? My best buddy was a linemen who at one time worked for PG&E, then went off on his own doing HV cable splicing, did a few hundred for me on Navy bases. Survived all that, but couldn't beat the "Agent Orange" cancer.

And yes bro, I get two IBEW pensions, class of 66' here.

 

[bocco]

Doesn't the city or county have electricians to do this sort of thing?

 

[SoCalDave]

Doesn't the city or county have electricians to do this sort of thing?

He stated they were volunteer so I would imagine the city/county union would get involved.

 

[ChiliPepperGarage]

Doesn't the city or county have electricians to do this sort of thing?

We don't have a "city"! We are a rural ag community of 1600 people over 200 square miles with an all volunteer department. We could hire an electrician but we try to keep our expenses down so if I can wire this up myself safely I'll do it. If it gets too complicated we will call in an electrician but they would have to travel about 30 miles to get here so hope to avoid that.

Here are photos of the panel with breaker and compressor motor. The top left breaker is for the compressor.

So it seems I can connect the white and black wires from the compressor to the L1 & L2 connectors on top of the starter. This would bypass the starter, using it just as a terminal block. Does it make any difference which wire goes to which L terminal?

I think I would prefer to remove the starter block and replace it with either a twist lock receptacle and wire a plug to the end of the compressor cable or just hard wire it to the upper disconnect box as there is a breaker in the main panel. I would simply remove the two blue wires and replace them with the black and white from the compressor and then green wire to ground. If I do this, do I leave the white wire coming from the main feed (main breaker panel) as is (see last photo)?

 

[Flying_Lavey]

We don't have a "city"! We are a rural ag community of 1600 people over 200 square miles with an all volunteer department. We could hire an electrician but we try to keep our expenses down so if I can wire this up myself safely I'll do it. If it gets too complicated we will call in an electrician but they would have to travel about 30 miles to get here so hope to avoid that.

Here are photos of the panel with breaker and compressor motor. The top left breaker is for the compressor.

So it seems I can connect the white and black wires from the compressor to the L1 & L2 connectors on top of the starter. This would bypass the starter, using it just as a terminal block. Does it make any difference which wire goes to which L terminal?

I think I would prefer to remove the starter block and replace it with either a twist lock receptacle and wire a plug to the end of the compressor cable or just hard wire it to the upper disconnect box as there is a breaker in the main panel. I would simply remove the two blue wires and replace them with the black and white from the compressor and then green wire to ground. If I do this, do I leave the white wire coming from the main feed (main breaker panel) as is (see last photo)?

View attachment 628837 View attachment 628838 View attachment 628839 View attachment 628840 View attachment 628841 View attachment 628842 View attachment 628843 View attachment 628844

You're breaker is much too large. Looks like the motor needs a 30 amp breaker. The white wire coming from the panel is a neutral for the starter coil (110v). Personally, since there the conduit is acting as the ground and that is reliant upon good, tight connections to make it work right in that fashion, I'd change that to a ground wire. Move it from the neutral bus to the ground bus in the main panel and use green electrical tape to tape about 6" of the end of each wire and in any juction box or LB it runs through.

Remove the blue wires from the disconnect, want that starter and box off the wall, and wire straight from the compressor into there. Plug any open holes in the panel and you're good to go.

Like I said though, verify the shut-off PSI rating of that pressure switch. If I recall correctly, it's written either on top or inside the pressure switch top cover.

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[Taboma]

The motor is thermally protected, so I disagree with Flying Lavey on replacing the breaker. The 50A is fine, is essentially protecting what appears to be # 8 wires (Even if it's # 10, ok) to the line side of the disconnect.

I do like his suggestion about using the white for a ground, so long as you're comfortable with and can safely remove the white from the neutral buss and transfer it to the ground buss, apply the green tape as he stated. Ground that in the disconnect along with the cord green on that currently empty lug in the disconnect screwed to the enclosure. Also get the KO seals for those two holes on the top of the disconnect.

With the 50 Amp breaker off --- Remove the cord from the starter enclosure, remove the starter and enclosure, replace the cord into the open KO on the bottom of the disconnect, wire the white and black from the cord where the two blue wires are now --- no it doesn't make a difference which color goes to L1 or L2. Energize the breaker and disconnect and you should be running.
Slap a label on the disconnect and even a purist should be happy

 

[ChiliPepperGarage]

The motor is thermally protected, so I disagree with Flying Lavey on replacing the breaker. The 50A is fine, is essentially protecting what appears to be # 8 wires (Even if it's # 10, ok) to the line side of the disconnect.

I do like his suggestion about using the white for a ground, so long as you're comfortable with and can safely remove the white from the neutral buss and transfer it to the ground buss, apply the green tape as he stated. Ground that in the disconnect along with the cord green on that currently empty lug in the disconnect screwed to the enclosure. Also get the KO seals for those two holes on the top of the disconnect.

With the 50 Amp breaker off --- Remove the cord from the starter enclosure, remove the starter and enclosure, replace the cord into the open KO on the bottom of the disconnect, wire the white and black from the cord where the two blue wires are now --- no it doesn't make a difference which color goes to L1 or L2. Energize the breaker and disconnect and you should be running.
Slap a label on the disconnect and even a purist should be happy

Cool! This sounds like the best solution. I was going to remove the cover off the breaker box this morning but just took photos. I'll go back and check it out. I'll shut off the main breaker before doing so. Then switch the white wire from neutral to ground (if I can figure out how to!) and ground the disconnect box.

I'll let you all know how it works out. I think I'll have one of the other members with me while I do this just in case I zap myself!

 

[Taboma]

Cool! This sounds like the best solution. I was going to remove the cover off the breaker box this morning but just took photos. I'll go back and check it out. I'll shut off the main breaker before doing so. Then switch the white wire from neutral to ground (if I can figure out how to!) and ground the disconnect box.

I'll let you all know how it works out. I think I'll have one of the other members with me while I do this just in case I zap myself!

Have your sidekick armed with a 4' length of 2x4, 120V tends to make us grasp and hold on, tell him if you grunt twice, to whack you with the 2x4, real hard like

 

[Flying_Lavey]

The motor is thermally protected, so I disagree with Flying Lavey on replacing the breaker. The 50A is fine, is essentially protecting what appears to be # 8 wires (Even if it's # 10, ok) to the line side of the disconnect.

I do like his suggestion about using the white for a ground, so long as you're comfortable with and can safely remove the white from the neutral buss and transfer it to the ground buss, apply the green tape as he stated. Ground that in the disconnect along with the cord green on that currently empty lug in the disconnect screwed to the enclosure. Also get the KO seals for those two holes on the top of the disconnect.

With the 50 Amp breaker off --- Remove the cord from the starter enclosure, remove the starter and enclosure, replace the cord into the open KO on the bottom of the disconnect, wire the white and black from the cord where the two blue wires are now --- no it doesn't make a difference which color goes to L1 or L2. Energize the breaker and disconnect and you should be running.
Slap a label on the disconnect and even a purist should be happy

Yeah, probably just fine with that 50 in there. I'd prefer to see it on a 30 myself at most but I wouldn't worry too much either way.

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[Taboma]

Yeah, probably just fine with that 50 in there. I'd prefer to see it on a 30 myself at most but I wouldn't worry too much either way.

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Trust me, that's the least of OUR worries By OUR and WORRIES, I mean the several of us who've contributed and are all sitting around like expectant fathers awaiting those words we so want to hear --- I'M STILL ALIVE AND IT RUNS !!

 

[milkmoney]

I just learned a bunch about electronics on my boat... keep your Perko switch to "OFF" when installing

And imagine that. Hmmmm[emoji202] [emoji106]

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[highvoltagehands]

Good job with nameplate pics. Easiest way now is Just connect the SO cord from the compressor like the original one to starter, then add #12 cu jumper wire to control starter contact as drawn in post #17 by Taboma. The breaker size is fine if using the starter, if you want to remove the starter then you should downsize the breaker to 30. Good luck Chili. I'm also available if you have questions. Hud 916-205-7527.

 

[ChiliPepperGarage]

Okay, success!

I pulled the starter and lower box off and wired the compressor to the upper disconnect box. I used the ground inside the box as that was how the old compressor was grounded. I checked the breaker box and there are several white wires so I'd have to try to trace down the one to the compressor box to use it as a ground. There are actually only two white wires going to the conduit that goes to the compressor box so hopefully shouldn't be too hard to trace it.

The compressor fires right up and shuts off when pressure builds up to about 170. The purpose of the compressor is to keep the truck air brake tanks full so when we get a call we don't have to wait for the truck to build pressure. The problem now is that normal truck air pressure is around 120 to 130 so when I hook up the air lines to the trucks, the bleed off valves keep popping (that is the pshsss sound you hear big trucks make) because of too much pressure so I will have to plumb in a pressure regulator. There doesn't seem to be any way to adjust the pressure on the tank.

Thanks for all the help guys (the department and residents of Smith Valley thank you too!).

.

 

[highvoltagehands]

This of course is the right way to approach this and how a qualified electrician would conduct business. Hopefully Chili will take your offer and or another previous similar offer(s), but the best course would have been to pick up the phone and call a contractor in the first place.
If anybody does speak with Chili, have him put two 3/4" KO seals in the top of that disconnect, spend a couple of $$ on a proper cord strain relief, and since the ground is dependent on the conduit, check the lock nuts on both ends for tightness (At a minimum).

My bet is, if this compressor is the same size (HP) and since it comes with a pre-wired pressure switch and pre-wired cord, connecting the cord to the load side of the disconnect or jumpering the coil in the redundant starter, will fire that puppy up and he'll have air. Of course there's always the "Right Way" pick one

Why aren't you up on a pole somewhere ? My best buddy was a linemen who at one time worked for PG&E, then went off on his own doing HV cable splicing, did a few hundred for me on Navy bases. Survived all that, but couldn't beat the "Agent Orange" cancer.

And yes bro, I get two IBEW pensions, class of 66' here.

Right on Taboma. I've read alot of your posts, it's obvious you've been around the block a few times. This one is full of good advice too. Always good to hear from retired Union brothers & thankful they helped pave the way for those of us following. Looking forward to collecting a couple IBEW pensions also. HS Class of 86', served 4 years, then completed 2 apprenticeships. Journeyman Wireman IBEW#332 San Jose, Journeyman Lineman IBEW#1245. Guys from both trades call me a "Switchback" half Narrowback, half Silverback. lol.

 

[SoCalDave]

Okay, success!

The compressor fires right up and shuts off when pressure builds up to about 170. The purpose of the compressor is to keep the truck air brake tanks full so when we get a call we don't have to wait for the truck to build pressure. The problem now is that normal truck air pressure is around 120 to 130 so when I hook up the air lines to the trucks, the bleed off valves keep popping (that is the pshsss sound you hear big trucks make) because of too much pressure so I will have to plumb in a pressure regulator. There doesn't seem to be any way to adjust the pressure on the tank.

Good deal CPG.
You can adjust the air pressure to your liking simply by turning the screw outward a bit. Let it cycle to see if is to your preferred settings, no need to spend the $$ on a regulator unless the PSI band is to large. You'll need a special screw driver for this though.

 

[ChiliPepperGarage]

Good deal CPG.
You can adjust the air pressure to your liking simply by turning the screw outward a bit. Let it cycle to see if is to your preferred settings, no need to spend the $$ on a regulator unless the PSI band is to large. You'll need a special screw driver for this though.

View attachment 629024

Cool! I have a set of security torx bits so I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[Taboma]

Okay, success!

I pulled the starter and lower box off and wired the compressor to the upper disconnect box. I used the ground inside the box as that was how the old compressor was grounded. I checked the breaker box and there are several white wires so I'd have to try to trace down the one to the compressor box to use it as a ground. There are actually only two white wires going to the conduit that goes to the compressor box so hopefully shouldn't be too hard to trace it.

The compressor fires right up and shuts off when pressure builds up to about 170. The purpose of the compressor is to keep the truck air brake tanks full so when we get a call we don't have to wait for the truck to build pressure. The problem now is that normal truck air pressure is around 120 to 130 so when I hook up the air lines to the trucks, the bleed off valves keep popping (that is the pshsss sound you hear big trucks make) because of too much pressure so I will have to plumb in a pressure regulator. There doesn't seem to be any way to adjust the pressure on the tank.

Thanks for all the help guys (the department and residents of Smith Valley thank you too!).

. View attachment 628996 View attachment 628997 View attachment 628998

Wonderful, glad to hear it !!!
You need to be careful identifying that neutral, because if you get in line with a neutral that's got a load on it, it can knock you on your ass --- Ouch !! Remember, with 120V it's the return leg, not just some innocent white wire. So make sure you can identify the load it's serving and kill that breaker --- then test that circuit to make sure it's the right one.
With that breaker off, then lift one of the two neutrals off the buss, make sure it's clear, then use a continuity tester (Ohm meter) and test between the white in the disconnect box to ground. If the circuit is open and no continuity, then it's the right one. Otherwise repeat with the 2nd one. You don't want to get this wrong. Then land the one end on the ground buss and re-test, now it should show continuity to ground.
And, so I can sleep better, please stop by Home Depot and get a couple of KO seals !!!!
Great job !!

 

[Taboma]

Right on Taboma. I've read alot of your posts, it's obvious you've been around the block a few times. This one is full of good advice too. Always good to hear from retired Union brothers & thankful they helped pave the way for those of us following. Looking forward to collecting a couple IBEW pensions also. HS Class of 86', served 4 years, then completed 2 apprenticeships. Journeyman Wireman IBEW#332 San Jose, Journeyman Lineman IBEW#1245. Guys from both trades call me a "Switchback" half Narrowback, half Silverback. lol.

Funny when I got drafted I was a Foreman, talk about a pay cut Thanks to the apprenticeship classes, I aced the CAS tests, so out of basic I got two offers. A. Go to Texas and learn how to become a lineman B. Go be an electrician in the Army --- yup, door B. please
Holy Shit local # 332 San Jose, you must be a friggen multi-millionaire !! I heard you could work all the hours up there during the big boom years that you could stay awake for and then some
The last job I ran prior to retiring was named "Norman", after the theoretical physicist that essentially designed it. Fusion research reactor, most amazing job ever. After that I knew I couldn't top it, so decided to hang it up.

 

[ChiliPepperGarage]

Wonderful, glad to hear it !!!
You need to be careful identifying that neutral, because if you get in line with a neutral that's got a load on it, it can knock you on your ass --- Ouch !! Remember, with 120V it's the return leg, not just some innocent white wire. So make sure you can identify the load it's serving and kill that breaker --- then test that circuit to make sure it's the right one.
With that breaker off, then lift one of the two neutrals off the buss, make sure it's clear, then use a continuity tester (Ohm meter) and test between the white in the disconnect box to ground. If the circuit is open and no continuity, then it's the right one. Otherwise repeat with the 2nd one. You don't want to get this wrong. Then land the one end on the ground buss and re-test, now it should show continuity to ground.
And, so I can sleep better, please stop by Home Depot and get a couple of KO seals !!!!
Great job !!

That was my main concern when I opened up the breaker box. Seeing the row of white wires and thinking if I get the wrong one and ground it out it's not going to be good. Not only could zap myself but don't want to be the guy that burns down the fire station!

That's kind of what I figured I'd do to trace the wire, with the main turned off, ground the white at the disconnect box then ohm it out at the breaker side.

Can I just duct tape over the KO's? I'll pick up a couple plugs next time I'm in town.

Thanks again for all the help from everyone. Of course, now everyone in the department is going to think I'm some kind of electrical wizard. Hey, what they don't know won't hurt them!

 

[Taboma]

That was my main concern when I opened up the breaker box. Seeing the row of white wires and thinking if I get the wrong one and ground it out it's not going to be good. Not only could zap myself but don't want to be the guy that burns down the fire station!

That's kind of what I figured I'd do to trace the wire, with the main turned off, ground the white at the disconnect box then ohm it out at the breaker side.

Can I just duct tape over the KO's? I'll pick up a couple plugs next time I'm in town.

Thanks again for all the help from everyone. Of course, now everyone in the department is going to think I'm some kind of electrical wizard. Hey, what they don't know won't hurt them!

You're certainly welcome. Hell, I even had to look up Smith Valley, never been.
Might I suggest verifying the neutral in the opposite direction. If you ohm a neutral from the breaker panel side, it leaves the chance that another neutral has some continuity to ground (Possible for a variety of reasons). By identifying the neutral leaving the conduit, clearing it from the buss, you will know that end is clear, you will know the disconnect end is clear. I believe it provides less chance for a mistake.
To be clear: The neutral should be grounded at your main panel --
A. Ohm test from disconnect side to ground -- should have continuity.
B. Clear suspected neutral from buss, then re-test from disconnect side, to show that you no longer have continuity. Repeat if necessary.

Yeah well, the only potential problem about the electrical wizard thing --- you might find yourself getting invited to the neighbors only to discover they've got this tiny little electrical problem

 

[highvoltagehands]

Get ready to hear your friends say "Can you come install a fan/light for me"