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Evac or puke tank???

Discussion in 'Engine Builds - Engine Tech' started by Dezertracer812, Oct 8, 2012.

  1. Dezertracer812

    Dezertracer812 Member

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    I have a 496 stroker in my baker that's roughly 575hp. motor has been great except the valves on passenger side needs adjusting as they are fresh with only one trip. The right valve cover " looking at rear of motor forward" has a PVC valve at the rear the vents to carb and left valve cover has a billet breather at the front. My headers are water jacketed with a ball valve I manually control. I noticed that during hard runs above 5200 rpm I was getting some water and oil coming from the breather. The motor is fresh and should be good but I can't have an oily mess on my boat so I was going to add a puke tank or now I have read about the evac system and was wondering what you guys might recommend? Could I also been sending too much water to the headers? I'm looking for the best and cleanest setup possible. Thanks for the help!
     

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  2. nganga

    nganga Well-Known Member

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    I had similar problems, I had blow by hoses running into my air intake to digest any blow by into the engine. When I put same engine in Jet boat, I added a nice eddie marine puke tank. It seems to keep it a bunch cleaner. I will try and post a photo tonight.

    As far as the water? Are you running your PVC valve into your exhaust?

    Steve
     
  3. jetboatperformance

    jetboatperformance Well-Known Member

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    Pan Vacs , from your crankcase to breather or a breather (puke) tank will help control the mess you describe however beyond a bit of residue there really shouldn't be a mess, several circumstances as you may know could contribute to the blow by your describing such as already inadequate crankcase ventilation (small breathers etc) or other issues also I would look at your oil temps (too low) respective the moisture you descibe beyond a bit of vapor you should'nt have water coming from your crankcase at all , Tanks like you describe are available as well as Evac fittings and breather Let us know if we can help Tom

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2012
  4. Dezertracer812

    Dezertracer812 Member

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    My PVC valve is vented to the intake manifold. Thanks for the input Tom. My oil temp might have been cold I'm running a thermostat but temps didn't get above 130. I only have water and oil above 5500rpm. It's not much but its there. I noticed the water when I had a good fog coming out the headers. When it was a very light mist I didn't see any water. I'm thinking I might try a taller breather first.
     
  5. jetboatperformance

    jetboatperformance Well-Known Member

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    Just a thought , invest in an IR electronic Temp tester , and shoot the side of your oil pan during testing , to effectively "boil" or dissapate naturally occuring moisture in your crankcase (and oil) takes a moderate amount of engine temp Tom
     
  6. Dezertracer812

    Dezertracer812 Member

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    I will put it in the boat and get a reading. Thanks for the input.
     
  7. SNiC Jet

    SNiC Jet Well-Known Member

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    Tom;
    What temp range would you consider adequate?
    Randy
     
  8. jetboatperformance

    jetboatperformance Well-Known Member

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    ideally it will hover around 210 , to avoid moisture / contaminents, , no an easy task in a Jet boat and admittedly not always obtainable
     
  9. SNiC Jet

    SNiC Jet Well-Known Member

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    Thx Tom....
     
  10. RiverDave

    RiverDave Banned

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    Tom spend a minute and educate me here for a second if for nothing else a bit of knowledge gained and the sake of conversation..

    Water comes in out of the pump to feed the motor.. I have seen guys that have these ball valve looking deals to adjust how much goes into the motor, and maybe exhaust?

    I'm not understanding why if they have a constant flow of water at some variable pressure.. They don't use something like a pressure regulator to an orifice size for the headers, and a straight up industrial wax pill style thermostat for the engine temp? If it's below X degrees the motor doesn't get any water until it goes above X degrees..

    I have read a lot of threads about these kind of issues in the past, and am just wondering why is it always a problem? There are thermostats, regulators etc.. I would assume in the automotive world / boat world already.. but if not there I know there's 100's of them in the industrial world that would fit the bill easily and not break the bank.

    RD
     
  11. jetboatperformance

    jetboatperformance Well-Known Member

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    Tom spend a minute and educate me here for a second if for nothing else a bit of knowledge gained and the sake of conversation..

    Water comes in out of the pump to feed the motor.. I have seen guys that have these ball valve looking deals to adjust how much goes into the motor, and maybe exhaust?

    We use and recommend the ball valve at the Jet feed line more as a "failsafe in the event that a line blows off, to use a valve there to attempt to "heat up" the engine is the preference of alot of folks (gate or ball valve control) .

    I'm not understanding why if they have a constant flow of water at some variable pressure.. They don't use something like a pressure regulator to an orifice size for the headers, and a straight up industrial wax pill style thermostat for the engine temp? If it's below X degrees the motor doesn't get any water until it goes above X degrees..

    The water flow and pressure from a typical jet application (without a heat exchanger recirculating system) is not constant and varies enormously from idle to high speed, all sorts of pressure regulators (many from the home and industry plumbing world are employed , we actually build and market our own pressure bypass kit which helps regulate and stabiliize pressure and will also help a little to "warm up" temps. Thermostats set ups for non recirc jets are are "iffy" at best IMO and because the system is not a circulation type tend to fluctuate hot/cold/hot say between 100 and 140 etc. also important to note that in a system like a jet drive even employing a thermostat kit but with out a recirculating water pump (most dont have this) the water passes thru too quickly to absorb and carry off heat like a auto system so the temps on the guages seen are somewhat inacurate

    I have read a lot of threads about these kind of issues in the past, and am just wondering why is it always a problem? There are thermostats, regulators etc.. I would assume in the automotive world / boat world already.. but if not there I know there's 100's of them in the industrial world that would fit the bill easily and not break the bank.

    Your likley correct regarding solutions , and lots of people beat thier brains out trying to resolve this as they want to see the temp guage read like a car , We build our engines to cold block specs (clearances) , let the water free flow (using a pressure by pass and mainly monitor oil temps , headed out for damage inspections this AM more later Tom
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2012
  12. lowfunds

    lowfunds Member

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    i'm going to run a thermostatically controlled oils system on my blower motor because i have read not to run a water thermostat with the blower cause of heat. running a thermostat in the oil system allows the oil to bypass the oil cooler and control oil temp which is most of the times more important than water temp. you can break valve springs with to cool oil temp and it will also rust up all the springs and valvetrain due to the abundance of moisture in the oil.
     

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