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Manx build questions...

Discussion in 'Custom Offroad Builds' started by RaceTec, Nov 18, 2016.

  1. RaceTec

    RaceTec Well-Known Member

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    I am getting a roller started and wanted your opinions on a couple things...
    Mostly street with some off-road, full length pan, 3" body lift, IRS, 1915cc to start... In the long run it will get a new trans and probably something like an ecoboost...

    1. What do you buggy guys think about 30"x 9.5" on 15" x 7" all of the way around, will it look funny? I was just thinking the 4 plus the spare being the same size would be easier?
    2. Thinking about mid travel, doing 3X3 arms and a 6" over beam with coil overs all of the way around, will that be decent for the street and a little off-road? Or should I save more and do an a-arm conversion?

    Any other suggestions?
     
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  2. wsuwrhr

    wsuwrhr The Masheenest

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    Make sure you run a 3 rib, or better, 5 rib bus 002 trans and T2 CVs, or better, if you can stomach the price.

    3x arms like you said

    6 wide beam will be gnarly on the street, it will need a cage so the front end doesn't end up bent.

    You know the differences between the chassis right?

    Mid/long travel a arms will be "wonky" on the street/freeway

    Brian



     
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  3. RaceTec

    RaceTec Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Brian, I am kind of learning as I go here...

    The plan is to cage the whole thing pretty much from the get go, that is why I am asking about the suspension... So a beam will be better all around?
    What differences in the chassis are you referring to?

    Already looking for a 5 rib... The plan was to get it running basically stock then do the upgrades as time and money allow...

    Thanks again for your input, I have been reading up a bunch but you guys usually have a bunch of experience!
     
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  4. wsuwrhr

    wsuwrhr The Masheenest

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    Because no chassis will have all that you want stock, since there isn't a chassis with a link pin and IRS. Personally I would look for a mid 60s chassis, that has a link front and put IRS in it.

    If you are switching to A arm, then it doesn't matter, just need to worry about smog laws on whatever chassis you use. I am not sure what the exempt year is now. When I built my car the cutoff was '66. I have a 65.

    If smog laws moved up, AND you are using a arms, then I would go with a 68(beam, not strut) chassis since the IRS mounts will be in the chassis already.

    In my opinion, A arms are just wonky on the street with big travel. Kinda floaty if that makes sense. A bury a body buddy has a monster manx and on the street it is a handful to drive at speed.

    If you end up with a link pin chassis then I have a better idea on adding the IRS mounts in the rear.

    Brian



     
  5. Gelcoater

    Gelcoater Well-Known Member

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    Who's kit are you running?
    If it's a Meyers kit maybe call Brad at Turnkey Manx.
    The dude is a Manx nut.

    He's been running Subaru engines, and trans too I believe. I think he told me there's a way to flip the pinion gear or something to make it work.
    He redoes the wiring harness himself and the car he was working on when I saw him (about a year? ago) he was going to run the non turbo subie/5speed combo. I think he said 160? 170? Hp. But stone axe reliable, regular gas, no drama.

    If you're familiar with it he ended up with Bruce's silver Manx 2+2 to toy around in.
    It has a 300ish hp Subaru turbo with a vw trans. Bruce gave me a ride in that car a few years ago, it was impressive as hell. Handled well on the turns too, considering the 31 inch bfg's on it and higher height.

    Post pics of what you're working with:thumbsup
     
  6. RaceTec

    RaceTec Well-Known Member

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    First off thanks Brian and Gelcoater!
    It is a ball joint pan. Sorry, I thought that there was something that I was missing. The plan is a three stage build. The plan is to run it as is with no cage while I gather the front and rear suspension parts. The next stage is getting the steel beam adapter and welding it to the ball joint front and then adding the new beam and building the cage front to back at the same time. That way I can build the beam into the cage and build the rear shock mounts and stuff for the rear suspension at the same time. That will push the beam forward about two inches and secure it both ways to the pan. I will then probably run that while I then gather a new engine and Trans. Not sure what I will be able to find engine wise, but that will dictate what transmission I go for. I am getting the pan and basics from vic's neighbor for a smoking deal and finishing it myself. I am searching for mostly used parts if I can to save money and I figure this will give me a great project with my three kids. It is a Manx man full length body.
     
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  7. wsuwrhr

    wsuwrhr The Masheenest

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    I would be careful with no cage to support that wide of a beam. I may be in the minority. I've never seen the ball joint to link front adapter.

    So you are planning to put the body on and run it with the stock ball joint IRS? YOU CAN "cut and turn" the front beam for now to slightly raise and stiffen the front. Cost you less than $100, the rear preload can be increased easily for no money. I can help out with either if you like.
     
  8. pipemn

    pipemn Well-Known Member

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    My wife manx matching your description and it drives fine on street IMG_1194.jpg IMG_1198.jpg IMG_1199.jpg IMG_1197.jpg

    091 box, 2332motor,it does have tube frame mated to pan.
     
  9. wsuwrhr

    wsuwrhr The Masheenest

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    Yep, nice looking.

    That is xactly what I am suggesting. Mid travel beam car.
     
  10. RaceTec

    RaceTec Well-Known Member

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    Pipemn, that is exactly where I want to end up! Brian, sorry for the confusion, I will only be driving it with the stock suspension with no cage while I gather parts. As soon as I have all of the parts I will install them at the same time as I cage it. So the wider beam will be completely tied in at that point. I won't need the adapter but I just figured it would be another point of attachment for the beam along with the cage? 6339425.jpg
     
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  11. RaceTec

    RaceTec Well-Known Member

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    Pipemn, what size wheels and tires are you running?

    Thanks again for all of your help guys!
     
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  12. pipemn

    pipemn Well-Known Member

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    33 x10.50-15R Bfg T/A. Any questions pm me

    Wheels 5" wide I will have to check backspace?
     
  13. RaceTec

    RaceTec Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! No need to check back space, thanks again...
     
  14. UltraLucky

    UltraLucky Well-Known Member

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    I would not waste your money on those adapters. When it comes time to build the cage and install the wider beam you will probably want to cut the front pan head off as it will be in the way of the steering rack and tie rods. That will also allow you to extend the beam further out and down if you want more travel. Are you using the standard long body Manx or the mid travel version?
     
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  15. pipemn

    pipemn Well-Known Member

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    I totally agree with ultralucky that is exactly how mine is,but it would depend on what your body length preference and wheel base would be.
     
  16. RaceTec

    RaceTec Well-Known Member

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    It is a full length body, and from what you guys have said and what I have researched I will probably just cut the front off when I cage it and install the beam or a-arm setup... Pipemn how does that a-arm setup handle on the street?
     
  17. pipemn

    pipemn Well-Known Member

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    It actually drives fine my wife drives it all the time,but it is a 6" wide beam not a-arms.Pan is cut off at pedal mount and tubed from there plus lengthened about 6" as I remember.I am on the road now but I try and post some pics of that area.Also the frame in that area runs clear to back of car,and ties into cage area.I post some pics.
     
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  18. RaceTec

    RaceTec Well-Known Member

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    Oh sorry, i got yours confused with one on Samba that I had asked about... If you get a chance can you post some pictures...
     
  19. RaceTec

    RaceTec Well-Known Member

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    Body just got gelled... Manxman make sure this one is good and strong! :thumbup:
    Pan is starting to come together, new halves are in...
    IMG_3391.jpg 20093.jpg
     
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  20. wsuwrhr

    wsuwrhr The Masheenest

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    Unless you are planning on a hydraulic clutch, check the bowden tube for the clutch cable to make sure it is attached and in good shape while your pan is torn down that far.

    Replace the fuel line with at least a 3/8 ID tube.

    Brian
     

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