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Manx build. Tons of questions

Discussion in 'Custom Offroad Builds' started by Gelcoater, Jun 9, 2017.

  1. Gelcoater

    Gelcoater Well-Known Member

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    Picked this up last month from a fellow RDP member.
    Project car, 68 body on 63 pan.

    First question.

    Should there be such a bow in the windshield?
    image.jpg

    It looks to be an easy 3/4 inch.
     
  2. Gelcoater

    Gelcoater Well-Known Member

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    Any go to sources for electrical?

    image.jpg image.jpg

    That piece of red wire on the passenger floor and the wires coming from the distributor are the only wires I can find on this car.
    So an entire street legal harness build is in my future.

    I'm a painter. All I know is electricity is blue. And it hurts.
    I've figured out what the ground symbol is on en electrical schematic. Beyond that it's Egyptian.

    Any and all advise here is appreciated.
     
  3. Gelcoater

    Gelcoater Well-Known Member

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    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

    Factory Meyers dash.

    But isn't going to fit with the front down bars of the cage there.

    Cut and narrow the dash or fab a flat gelcoated panel for a dash?
    Or flat carbon fiber panel for dash? :cool

    With some time that factory unit could be sectioned and narrowed to fit.

    I'm torn.
     
  4. Cole Trickle

    Cole Trickle Member

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    That was a deal I was on it a couple minutes after posted and I have always wanted a Manx but the time wasn't right.

    I would get into the different bE or Manx forums. Quick search on eBay and there are a ton of Manx wiring harnesses for les than $250.

    There simple shouldn't be that hard to figure it out with the help of rdp and youtube[emoji41]
     
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  5. BamBam

    BamBam Well-Known Member

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    I was considering this place for a VW wiring harness. http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/vw-items I ended up just building the entire wiring harness on my own. I don't understand Egyptian but I understand electrical. As far as the bow in the windshield, I would try to remove the entire assembly. Then remove the bottom piece of metal. I would then try to straighten that piece once removed from the glass. If that piece is bowed it could be causing the glass to bow with it. I was looking at this and tried to buy it as well, but you were too quick on the draw. It would have been another fun toy for dad to have out at the river house. Good luck with the project and keep asking questions as I'm sure others want to see the progress and help as much as possible.
     
  6. wsuwrhr

    wsuwrhr The Masheenest

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    Cage looks bad ass if the pictures do it justice.
     
  7. AzGeo

    AzGeo Well-Known Member

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    from scratch, is easier than doing a 3 color gel coat spray job ..............
     
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  8. UltraLucky

    UltraLucky Well-Known Member

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    If it is an original Manx body and Dash I would keep the configuration of the dash as close as possible if you can, The dash is one of the ways to distinguish the original bodies from the splashed molds. I had to trim mine a bit to fit around the cage. The windshield should be a flat piece of glass, no bow.
    Lot of guys are using the Rebel Harness or a stock Bug harness for the year you want to replicate the lighting and turn signals from. Than you can use the VW wiring diagrams and turn signal switches and relays. I went with the 1966 so i could have the turn signal and Hi/Low beam switch on the column.
     
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  9. Gelcoater

    Gelcoater Well-Known Member

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    The Rebel kit looks miles ahead of others I have looked at. Thanks.:thumbsup
    Will probably order one.

    As far as the dash and distinguishing the body from a splash...

    I've already had the body authenticated by Bruce and Winnie.
    There was a discrepancy in the last number of the serial number from the PO in their registry number.
    The body is a 68

    It had been painted over...twice.
    The car has been red and now yellow.
    Was hard to read and that last number was the key to knowing what the original color was.
    So I pulled the plate and got the paint off.
    image.jpg

    The original color was "ColdFire" metal flake.
    Is a mix of gold and green.
    Interesting note here, ColdFire was a typo on the color chart and should have been GoldFire.
    I understand there's a few 70-73 Beismeyer flats gelled in Cold/GoldFire.


    This pic confirmed for the Meyers crew the OG color and the final letter and allowed them to complete that entry of their registry. And, got the car in their new registry, a cert of authenticity and new badges.

    Kind of cool learning about the history of old cars.:cool
     
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  10. Ballsdeep

    Ballsdeep Well-Known Member

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  11. Dan Lorenze

    Dan Lorenze Well-Known Member

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    I knew that was a real Manx when I saw it.. You scored, Gelcoater.. Good job.... Our cars are very similar. I want to say that your windshield might be on backwards. The flat of the windsheild goes to the inside of the car. Hard to tell from the pics.
     
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  12. Gelcoater

    Gelcoater Well-Known Member

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    Dan, you have a build thread here or the Samba or somewhere?
    Would love to see pics of various behind the scenes views, if you follow me.
    Routing of cables, fuel lines, oil cooler, etc.

    I'd like to only build this thing two or three times:D

    Edit.
    The windshield.

    There's a channel pointed towards the inside of the car?

    image.jpg image.jpg
     
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  13. RaceTec

    RaceTec Well-Known Member

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  14. UltraLucky

    UltraLucky Well-Known Member

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    Channel should be pointed towards the front of the car. It is there to capture the front of the old style fiberglass tops.
     
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  15. Dan Lorenze

    Dan Lorenze Well-Known Member

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    That is correct! The channel goes to the front of the car.. [emoji106]
     
  16. Gelcoater

    Gelcoater Well-Known Member

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    On tops...

    Is it threadcrapping if I go OT in my own thread? :D
    I'm sure if Shintoooo sees it I'll get an infraction either way.:rolleyes

    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

    Came across these pics and thought they were interesting.
    I'm well aware of the unique, and what I thought was a Mopar only option back in the day. The Mod Top.

    Well here's a Mod Top Manx, and from what I can tell is a 1969 car still owned by the original buyer/builder/owner.
     
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  17. Gelcoater

    Gelcoater Well-Known Member

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    image.jpg

    The gas tank.

    Any recommendations for a fab guy to patch that hole and weld a new bung in forward so it can hook up to the gas fill in the center of the hood?

    Meyers sells one but it's close to $500. :eek

    Am I wrong in thinking someone could weld mine and pressure check it for less than or about half that?

    Other options anyone knows of to fill that hole without much in the way of gadgets or brackets to hold it in?

    The car needs an entire fuel system, from tank to carb rebuild and every single component between the two.
     
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  18. Dan Lorenze

    Dan Lorenze Well-Known Member

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    I'm on Samba but I didn't do a build thread. My buggy is real basic, because it's a Meyers I wanted to keep it pretty stock. The fuel line is stock and goes through the tunnel, all the wires are ran through the tube on the left side of the car and I use no external oil cooler.
     
  19. Gelcoater

    Gelcoater Well-Known Member

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    Is yours a classic body? For some reason I thought you had a 2+2 body?

    Fuel line through the tunnel.
    There isn't a hard line that I can see in there. There are no access holes cut, and even the hole for the E brake was blocked off before what appears to be an epoxy, possibly a thin coat of bed liner was applied. It looks pretty sharp and clean. I understand running the hard line through there is a royal PITA? Even with access holes.

    Worst case scenario I have to buy the kit that welds in where the access hole is cut that reinforces the tunnel. Then refinish the floor pan.
    I believe within the stack of paper that came with the car are receipts for the coating used.
     
  20. wsuwrhr

    wsuwrhr The Masheenest

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    The front access is thru a plate bolted on the front of the chassis where the front end bolts on, and the rear access is where the trans nose comes into the car.
    Anything with a big motor should have at least a 3/8 fuel line.

    Running a fuel line through the tunnel is easy peasy. You also need to check the Bowden tube at the rear to make sure it isn't broke.
     

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