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Morse steering cables

Cgrohe223

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So been a while since I’ve posted any questions but here’s the new situation. So I sold my Stoker and I bought a 95 daytona with a black hawk drive powered by a fresh 502. First thing I noticed when we test drove it had a lot of slop in the steering, the owner said never bothered me.. when I built the old 79 tahiti I checked all the gimbal and tightened everything up with all new cables and that old boat had no slop what so ever. So first thing I check is the gimbal for play nothing.... had my gf go back and forth with the steering wheel and nothing has slop in the steering arms or pins. But what I noticed is you can hear the cable moving but it doesn’t move any of the components. So there for process of elimination I’m going with cable and it’s an original cable, but Morse is no longer around so a shop says I need to change the hub out and they don’t offer a hub that can have wires going through the center for my trim button. Eliminator says teliflex still makes cables for rotary hubs but I can’t seem to find one in a 21ft length which is size that the old Morse part number states is the length. Anyone have experience with this type of situation?
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Jimmy

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So been a while since I’ve posted any questions but here’s the new situation. So I sold my Stoker and I bought a 95 daytona with a black hawk drive powered by a fresh 502. First thing I noticed when we test drove it had a lot of slop in the steering, the owner said never bothered me.. when I built the old 79 tahiti I checked all the gimbal and tightened everything up with all new cables and that old boat had no slop what so ever. So first thing I check is the gimbal for play nothing.... had my gf go back and forth with the steering wheel and nothing has slop in the steering arms or pins. But what I noticed is you can hear the cable moving but it doesn’t move any of the components. So there for process of elimination I’m going with cable and it’s an original cable, but Morse is no longer around so a shop says I need to change the hub out and they don’t offer a hub that can have wires going through the center for my trim button. Eliminator says teliflex still makes cables for rotary hubs but I can’t seem to find one in a 21ft length which is size that the old Morse part number states is the length. Anyone have experience with this type of situation?
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NICE!
Sorry that the websites over here but they do have them.

http://www.cassellmarine.com.au/p/5...quick-connect-3-turn-steering-kit---sale.html
 

Jimmy

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Which means they gotta be around but so far I’ve found 20” max


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When I got new throttle and shift cables i just went to the local guy in town and he had a catalogue of all different sizes and qualities.
I think I used a brand called ultraflex for one of them.
 

Cgrohe223

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When I got new throttle and shift cables i just went to the local guy in town and he had a catalogue of all different sizes and qualities.
I think I used a brand called ultraflex for one of them.

Maybe I can email that company a picture of my set up and they could give me a part number


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RiverDave

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Is the cable secured from helm to transom? If it’s flopping around in there somewhere that might actually be your problem. A little movement here and there is fine, bit If there’s some large area the cable might be moving around in the boat.. if t is obviously it will make the sheath turn when it’s in compression and straighten under tension.. that could very easily cause your problem as the distance is now changing in length from gel to transom. In the event that isn’t it I believe you can drill the steering post on the newer columns.. I have drilled several for mfg’s here but I don’t know if they were new setups or older Morse inventory.

There is a kind of cool upgrade you can do right now that won’t break the bank and will give you hydraulic steering if you are interested.
 

Cgrohe223

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Is the cable secured from helm to transom? If it’s flopping around in there somewhere that might actually be your problem. A little movement here and there is fine, bit If there’s some large area the cable might be moving around in the boat.. if t is obviously it will make the sheath turn when it’s in compression and straighten under tension.. that could very easily cause your problem as the distance is now changing in length from gel to transom. In the event that isn’t it I believe you can drill the steering post on the newer columns.. I have drilled several for mfg’s here but I don’t know if they were new setups or older Morse inventory.

There is a kind of cool upgrade you can do right now that won’t break the bank and will give you hydraulic steering if you are interested.

I like the idea of hydraulic due to the Stoker having it and felt like it was on rails. But to get to anything behind this Motor is impossible and I don’t exactly want to pull the Motor


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RiverDave

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I like the idea of hydraulic due to the Stoker having it and felt like it was on rails. But to get to anything behind this Motor is impossible and I don’t exactly want to pull the Motor


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Gotcha.. drove that AO deckboat with that internal hydraulic steering and the Howard 255 and loved both of them.
 

Cgrohe223

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Gotcha.. drove that AO deckboat with that internal hydraulic steering and the Howard 255 and loved both of them.

I believe it takes place of the hydraulic assist assembly right? Something like this?
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RiverDave

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I didn’t see it but I’d imagine that’s exactly what it is


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Outdrive1

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Just buy a new rotary Teleflex helm and add the trim on the wheel. Or blinker style.

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Rotten deal

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Have you checked cp performance for availability or options .
 

Rotten deal

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Pretty sure they have what you need . Look on website and look under cables. They have about anything you could ever need for performance boats.
 

Cgrohe223

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Pretty sure they have what you need . Look on website and look under cables. They have about anything you could ever need for performance boats.

Yeah I checked it out found the cable quick thanks for that!


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Cgrohe223

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Welp got off the phone with cp performance and they tried to see what they could do so I could just replace cable and they said it’s not gunna happen have to replace the whole system


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Icky

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Try danamarine/ marine industries west. I was gonna buy a cable from them awhile back cause they had it in stock. My GF just happened to be at eliminator getting some stickers made and they had one so she bought it there
 

Cgrohe223

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So what I’m figuring is for the amount I’m going to pay for just a cable I can get the whole new set up for a little more cause who knows if the old hub isn’t warm as well. I’ll just drill out the center of the shaft to run my wires through


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Rvrluvr

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we run morse style cable on our (jhan & mine) dump boxes. They operate the motors and the hoist. Anyway there is a place in Ontario on Philadelphia st between Vineyard & Archibald that builds them to what you need. They are very reasonable in price too. I don't remember the name....sorry
 

Icky

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You're not referring to G&J are you?

we run morse style cable on our (jhan & mine) dump boxes. They operate the motors and the hoist. Anyway there is a place in Ontario on Philadelphia st between Vineyard & Archibald that builds them to what you need. They are very reasonable in price too. I don't remember the name....sorry
 

Cgrohe223

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I actually just said hell with it and ordered the full kit with the new hub I’ll just drill out the shaft and be done hunting down a cable. Might as replace and go with all new just so nothing else is warn on the hub, plus it was cheaper going that route.


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Old Texan

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Years ago when I was in the diesel engine business, we often had the cables built by a local company. Can't remember the name of the company here in Houston, but if you check around I'd wager you can find a custom cable maker in your area. These cables are not only used in marine applications, but industrial and truck applications.

These folks build with quality components and often ha
 

Cgrohe223

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All done definitely feels a lot better


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Cgrohe223

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Pretty damn long drill! You go halfway and then flip it over? Or all the way through?


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Started with a normal size and changed out to longer drills. Ended up finishing it up ima lathe due to not being able to back the drill out to clear out the metal chips.


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