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School me on XJ's

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Keep it that way....

Seat heaters help but its still cold...lol

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That's what jackets are for, Princess!

Roz blue is best. Everything runs better with a little Smurf blood, haha!


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Cole Trickle

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That's what jackets are for, Princess!

Roz blue is best. Everything runs better with a little Smurf blood, haha!


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Fuck that...lol

Drove home from the beach sat night with the top off. I thought the kid was going to freeze...lol

Why they didn't put two heater vents in the back I will never understand...

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YoPengo

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Sorry to thread jack... But how do full size rigs do? I think older K5's are 106" wheel base.

I see all the JK's with everyone looking for V8's and bigger axels...

Why not start with an older bronco/ blazer (cheap) and start modifying...?

Example: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/4123383421.html

I bet 3k or less gets this...
 

Waffles

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Sorry to thread jack... But how do full size rigs do? I think older K5's are 106" wheel base.

I see all the JK's with everyone looking for V8's and bigger axels...

Why not start with an older bronco/ blazer (cheap) and start modifying...?

Example: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/4123383421.html

I bet 3k or less gets this...

I don't know what the laws in az are but I know the main reason my buddy sold his 79 bronco for this xj was because he just couldn't get it to smog and was tired of trying to find someone that would "pass" it. Threw two different 460's in it and no dice. They also drive like tanks and the 3 spd tranny it had in it did the 460's no justice.

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Sorry to thread jack... But how do full size rigs do? I think older K5's are 106" wheel base.

I see all the JK's with everyone looking for V8's and bigger axels...

Why not start with an older bronco/ blazer (cheap) and start modifying...?

Example: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/4123383421.html

I bet 3k or less gets this...

Jeeps are easier, because they have a HUGE aftermarket following. It's fairly easy to build one with a large amount of articulation, and the parts bolt on pretty easy. The older full size rigs would need to be mostly custom to go where the Jeeps can go. Custom 4 links, axle mods, lower transfer case ratios, lockers, hydraulic steering etc etc. I have seen a few on the trails and they worked bitchen, but they had as much, if not more tied up in building them as the Jeep crew. Plus Jeeps are just cooler, lol!:D:D:D
 
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ROZ

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Scouts and early broncos are narrow compared to a k5. Id love to have either one.

I'm thinking that you can climb canyon walls with wider axles but the wide blazer body might be tough th navigate through canyons and other tight areas.

I'm moving my front axle forward 2" and pushing the rear axle back 8" for around 112" wheelbase.

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relaxalot

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Which size and brand lift is that? Tire size?

Nice Cherokee.

Tires are 35's. I think the lift kit is Rusty's? Bilstein shocks. Lockers front and rear. I am not sure how much it is lifted but I think 8 inches. I added a cage, wheel well flares, hydraulic winch, aluminum radiator, 3 fan set up to cool, louvers in the hood to cool even more, Motor is stroked, 4-1 transfercase. I am a jeep rookie and have only barely used this rig. I drove the back way to the desert bar 4 or 5 times with it. It is not so great on the road but in the dirt it is alot of fun.
 
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rivrrts429

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Tires are 35's. I think the lift kit is Rusty's? Bilstein shocks. Lockers front and rear. I am not sure how much it is lifted but I think 8 inches. I added a cage, wheel well flares, hydraulic winch, aluminum radiator, 3 fan set up to cool, louvers in the hood to cool even more, Motor is stroked, 4-1 transfercase. I am a jeep rookie and have only barely used this rig. I drove the back way to the desert bar 4 or 5 times with it. It is not so great on the road but in the dirt it is alot of fun.

Any driveline vibration issues or the death wobble I've heard about?

It seems common for the XJ's with the guys that go over 6" lifts, maybe not.

That's a nice XJ you got. I've been lurking around the jeep forums learning everything I can before I start calling on the classifieds.
 

rivrrts429

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Sorry to thread jack... But how do full size rigs do? I think older K5's are 106" wheel base.

I see all the JK's with everyone looking for V8's and bigger axels...

Why not start with an older bronco/ blazer (cheap) and start modifying...?

Example: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/4123383421.html

I bet 3k or less gets this...

Full size stuff is nice but a tank on the trail IMO.

To do it right and make them bulletproof you start getting into the 1-ton axles and big Dana stuff. That shit gets spendy in a hurry $$

And to repeat what River said... Nothing compares to the stuff available for Jeeps at a fraction of the cost. Jeep is the Mercury of the off road world.

1-ton stuff is like the Ford of the boating world. Sure it can be done but you spend a ton to be different and get the same outcome.
 

relaxalot

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Any driveline vibration issues or the death wobble I've heard about?

It seems common for the XJ's with the guys that go over 6" lifts, maybe not.

That's a nice XJ you got. I've been lurking around the jeep forums learning everything I can before I start calling on the classifieds.

No death wobble at all. I had some overheating issues that were solved by a new radiator, triple electric fans and louvers. Sometimes the rear differential pukes out a little oil after running on the highway at high speeds. I don't know why this has been happening. I think it may even be lifted 10 " It hauls ass on dirt roads, crawls slow in the rocks and chugs along on city streets. Seems to work well as a second vehicle in Havasu.
 

rivrrts429

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No death wobble at all. I had some overheating issues that were solved by a new radiator, triple electric fans and louvers. Sometimes the rear differential pukes out a little oil after running on the highway at high speeds. I don't know why this has been happening. I think it may even be lifted 10 " It hauls ass on dirt roads, crawls slow in the rocks and chugs along on city streets. Seems to work well as a second vehicle in Havasu.

That's good to know. Thanks relaxalot, really appreciate the info!
 

ROZ

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The biggest issue with the huge lifts is the track/panhard bar and its relation to the angle and length of the draglink. They need to be at the same angle and very close to the same length in order to keep the axle centered. Complete left kits should come with the properly engineered parts. Start adding pucks or springs longer springs and you go outside what the kit was intended. Raising the axle side or lowering the frame side trackbar mounts may be necessary.

Everything is a tight fit in the front end. Especially with coils in the way.

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margaritaville express

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If you keep the D30, carry both sides as spares. The short sides break more often. Roz knows cause he is swappin it all out....

Happy trails...


I don't know what I can add to the thread over what's been posted already. They're very a capable family rig...

3-4" lift, 33's, and lockers gets you almost anywhere. The wheelbase at 102" really helps. Trimming the fenders and front inner seam will give you more room to stuff the tires..

Things look for? 92 and up gets you open cooling, non renix HO motor(more performance parts avail) , and an aw4 or AX15 w/external slave. I think the much later models have a metal hatch.

Unibody:

If you're lucky, someone installed frame stiffners before they seriously wheeled it. Most popular are by HD, TnT, and Ruffstuff Specialties, but people do make their own by plating the frame with 3/16 . If you're worried about if the rig has been flexed out too much to many times, look for cracks where the lcas and leaf perches are on the frame, doors that are way out of alignment, and cracked hatches at the bottom edge of the hatch window (fiberglass hatch).

Also look at where the steering box mounts. The bolt holes can get wollowed out after a lot of wheeling. It may have a steering box reinforcement kit installed. Thats good. If it doesn't and you dont plan to plate the frame, get one. They're cheap insurance.

As with any used car purchase, make sure steering and brakes are in good condition.

The later models will have D35(3/8drive plug) or 8.25(rubber plug) out back.
The 8.25 has larger axle shafts. Stronger. You may find one on occasion that someone stuffed a D44 or 8.8 . I think the 8.8 axle tubes are thicker wall.

The nve231 transfer case is strong. Its possible you may find one that has been upgraded to 4:1 crawl ratio nv241or terra low.

Front D30 is strong. Buy(on craigslist often) a long shaft for a spare. 92-99 is non vac disconnect and high pinion. After 99 is low pinion and pre 92 have vac disconnect axle engagement(long inner shaft is 2piece), but there are ways around this...

I'd arb/ox lock the front and grizzley lock (keep cost down) the rear on a street rig.

Be sure to check out websites like Naxja. Org, reno4x4, cherokeeforums, and pirate4x4( has Cherokee hardcore and nonhardcore sections) The pirate hardcore section has a mission statement thread. Check it out for killer topic of the month threads. From xjs on tons full body , comp cuts, to chuggies. Its a wealth of info that's all there.

Also check out ericsxj.com. he's the guy who wrote the book " Jeep Cherokee builders guide". Good refrence. He has a new one cominh out soon as well.

I like mine the way it is now, but ill love it this time next year if all goes as planned..

Chuggies are rad:D

Buy onr. Youll love it :D











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wishiknew

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Xj is a great platform to build off...

We have built my dad a very nice off roader that works well.

4.5" lift on 33's.

He has a bunch of $$ into it at this point. We started off a very clean stock/ low mileage anniversary package.

Stiffners are important if you're going to wheel it hard.

My advise is to buy one that is all done up with lift,gears and lockers as that will cost you.

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Leadfoot stickers ??????
 

OCMerrill

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I am enjoying this thread. :thumbsup:thumbsup

I tried to but a 74 Scout II a week ago but the guy ended up giving it to his son.

I am looking for something different and under 1975.

An early bronco is STUPID money. The price of those things are out of control and the bodies are generally bad.

Early K5 Blazers are also rust buckets and flimsy with the top off.
 
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I am enjoying this thread. :thumbsup:thumbsup

I tried to but a 74 Scout II a week ago but the guy ended up giving it to his son.

I am looking for something different and under 1975.

An early bronco is STUPID money. The price of those things are out of control and the bodies are generally bad.

Early K5 Blazers are also rust buckets and flimsy with the top off.

Not after you cage the crap out of it!!
 

rivrrts429

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So I've been doing a ton of research and learning about these XJ's. They're definitely a very capable jeep.

Thanks Roz for the input, your info and those sites have been super helpful.

It seems for the most part that the single biggest improvement is going to 44's or 60 axles. At the very least going to an 8.8 rear. The D30 & 35's seem like a ticking time bomb. Not sure I want to lug around a whole drivetrain for back up purposes.

I'm not a fan of the look of the full width tons, but assume the axles could be cut down.

Anything else that you think should be a must have or must be done?

I've got the bug and I got it bad lol. This jeep thing is addicting and I don't even own one yet.
My wallet is sore just thinking about it.
 
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OCMerrill

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So I've been doing a ton of research and learning about these XJ's. They're definitely a very capable jeep.

Thanks Roz for the input, your info and those sites have been super helpful.

It seems for the most part that the single biggest improvement is going to 44's or 60 axles. At the very least going to an 8.8 rear. The D30 & 35's seem like a ticking time bomb. Not sure I want to lug around a whole drivetrain for back up purposes.

I'm not a fan of the look of the full width tons, but assume the axles could be cut down.

Anything else that you think should be a must have or must be done?

I've got the bug and I got it bad lol. This jeep thing is addicting and I don't even own one yet.
My wallet is sore just thinking about it.


A high pinion 30 built right in the front of an XJ will be fine. The 8.8 swap is a golden deal also. You can find them 4:10's but the is the lowest available stock. Many explored variants had a locker and disks and roll in with little work.

If you sourced a 4:1 NP 241 xnfer case, ran 35's with 4:10's and selectable lockers you can run 90% of all the trails in so cal and still driver it on the street, even daily if you want.
 
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OCMerrill

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Not after you cage the crap out of it!!


I used to have a Scout II, for years but it was a 1980 and passing smog was a bitch. I am looking for a 1974 that is not to rusted over.
 

rivrrts429

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I'm not a fan of them whatsoever, but does anybody have any thoughts on the 90's 4runners?

Wife was confused on what I'm looking for and came to me with a stack of listings for the Toyota's. They seem to be a bit more pricey than the jeeps. I'm assuming the cost of parts and cost to build is more expensive.
 

ROZ

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Ocmerrill, scouter mentioned possibly putting one of his scouts up for sale. I t
 

ROZ

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I'm not a fan of them whatsoever, but does anybody have any thoughts on the 90's 4runners?

Wife was confused on what I'm looking for and came to me with a stack of listings for the Toyota's. They seem to be a bit more pricey than the jeeps. I'm assuming the cost of parts and cost to build is more expensive.

I think most who rock crawl or are really serious off-road, do SAS up front.

Toyota rear axles are beef for stock. Tons of parts too.

Www.trail-gear.com does a lot of toyota stuff.

Check pirate4x4 toy section.
 

ROZ

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I'm not a fan of them whatsoever, but does anybody have any thoughts on the 90's 4runners?

Wife was confused on what I'm looking for and came to me with a stack of listings for the Toyota's. They seem to be a bit more pricey than the jeeps. I'm assuming the cost of parts and cost to build is more expensive.

..
 

rivrrts429

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I think most who rock crawl or are really serious off-road, do SAS up front.

Toyota rear axles are beef for stock. Tons of parts too.

Www.trail-gear.com does a lot of toyota stuff.

Check pirate4x4 toy section.


I've decided that I'd much rather go jeep than Yota if I go that route. The jeep aftermarket is HUGE.
 

margaritaville express

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Here are a few pics of a Cherokee home built project. Started out as your standard $1,500 car....Long arms, coils out back, bobbed rear end (hatch still works), fuel cell, exo cage, lockers, BFG 35s, high steer set up, frame stiffeners and a truckload of parts and manhours....etc. Seems to work well...the front end needs work as it kills the approach angle.

My recommendation would be find one built with most of the want list items. The first thing I would do would be to add rocker guards (make sure the doors always open) and add lap belts (so you can get out in all circumstances)...

1470025_754907484524162_359014753_n.jpg DSCN0401.jpg DSCN0429.jpg DSCN0432.jpg IMGP0069.jpg IMGP0078.jpg IMGP0132.jpg off road 064.jpg PB300009.jpg

Good luck with your search...You can always join/check NAXJA website in the SoCal for sale section for leads. I wouldn't discount a built rig with some trail scars. Anything that has no scars is unproven and suspect.
 

ROZ

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The D30 & 35's seem like a ticking time bomb. Not sure I want to lug around a whole drivetrain for back up purposes.

I guess it really depends on how you plan to abuse it:D

Not the whole drivetrain. Just some parts. Carry the most prone to break. It shouldn't take much space. If you wheel with other jeepers, trail fixes can be easier if they carry parts too- Community autoparts. I'd carry the front inner axle shaft and an outer. Shafts are relatively easy to replace.

Re the full size axles. A person can increase wheel backspacing to help regulate width.
 

margaritaville express

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We continue to put his exo cage to test......so far the Cherokon does pretty good. The approach angle is a little flat and the rear axle is a ticking time bomb ...
 
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