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T17 Outboard

JRider

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Well, getting my feet wet here, this is the T17. On schedule for gel and glass this week. Construction will be VE, foam core, coosa transom/bulkheads/structure.

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Jed-O

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Pretty trick lines! Can't wait to see it out of the mold! :thumbup:
 

AzGeo

Fair winds and following seas George.. Rest Easy..
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That's not the bottom that I looked at years ago .

The one I looked at had the two outer sponsons 'narrower' at the transom, than they were 10' forward .

The outer sponsons were not parallel on the molds I looked at in the Hawaiian Boats yard, for Wayne King .

The outer tunnel sides were not parallel with the center pod either .

That is a different bottom .
 

pwerwagn

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That's not the bottom that I looked at years ago .

The one I looked at had the two outer sponsons 'narrower' at the transom, than they were 10' forward .

The outer sponsons were not parallel on the molds I looked at in the Hawaiian Boats yard, for Wayne King .

The outer tunnel sides were not parallel with the center pod either .

That is a different bottom .

Is that common to have outer sponson not parallel? Seems like that would make for some potentially odd handling?

Looks like a cool little boat.
 

JRider

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Is that common to have outer sponson not parallel? Seems like that would make for some potentially odd handling?

Looks like a cool little boat.

As far as tunnels getting narrower at the rear, that is not common and I cant see how it would be at all beneficial, would be inefficient and could be down right dangerous. Getting wider at the rear could possibly work, in fact my Hydrostream stepped out wider in about the center of the boat, not sure how that is beneficial either because tunnel compression loss.

I think some old eliminator 23s had tunnels that narrowed at the rear, I have not heard much about them.
 

lake p.a.l.

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Looks like a really cool build. 2 or 4 seats? What power? How much are they?
 

AzGeo

Fair winds and following seas George.. Rest Easy..
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Wayne King asked me to look at the 'boat' and give him an idea of what it would take to 'fix the bottom' .

After seeing it, I told him; "a new bottom and mold" .

He did not want to spend the money at that time .

Looks like he did spend some money and fix the problems .

The molds I saw back then would not have cleaned up as those in the photos, maybe he refinished/rebuilt the deck mold while doing a new bottom one .

YES, narrowing the tunnels towards the rear, does not work .

Anytime you have 'vertical surfaces attacking the water' you will be creating drag . (and other problems) Retreating vertical surfaces do not add drag and can often reduce it .

The hull bottom looked to me like a 'V bottom' with the sponsons added, so at the transom they were much higher out of the water going straight .

Wayne said the 'angle' of the tunnel sides made the boat 'turn better', but was causing problems 'going straight too' .

No shit ...................
 

pwerwagn

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Wayne King asked me to look at the 'boat' and give him an idea of what it would take to 'fix the bottom' .

After seeing it, I told him; "a new bottom and mold" .

He did not want to spend the money at that time .

Looks like he did spend some money and fix the problems .

The molds I saw back then would not have cleaned up as those in the photos, maybe he refinished/rebuilt the deck mold while doing a new bottom one .

YES, narrowing the tunnels towards the rear, does not work .

Anytime you have 'vertical surfaces attacking the water' you will be creating drag . (and other problems) Retreating vertical surfaces do not add drag and can often reduce it .

The hull bottom looked to me like a 'V bottom' with the sponsons added, so at the transom they were much higher out of the water going straight .

Wayne said the 'angle' of the tunnel sides made the boat 'turn better', but was causing problems 'going straight too' .

No shit ...................

By "retreating vertical surfaces", do you mean surfaces like the walls of a tunnel that lift out of the water at speed because of aero/hydrodynamic lift?
 

JRider

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Looks like a really cool build. 2 or 4 seats? What power? How much are they?

Sorry, I missed this question. Going for STV Euro type seating, 4 buckets and small sun pad for the ladies. Money dependent I will be testing it with a warmed up 2.5 260 (I already own) or a new 300xs. Goal is to test with new.

As far as pricing that depends on a lot of things, starting with materials, balsa core, plywood transom/structure and polyester would be cheaper. Or move up to Coosa transom/structure, foam core and VE the price would go up. Plan is to sell them in any stage, from blank you rig hull without trailer to a complete rigged package with motor and trailer. In any form they would be a hell of a lot cheaper than and STV. This is getting the cart in front of the horse, I need to get one tested.
 

lake p.a.l.

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Sorry, I missed this question. Going for STV Euro type seating, 4 buckets and small sun pad for the ladies. Money dependent I will be testing it with a warmed up 2.5 260 (I already own) or a new 300xs. Goal is to test with new.

As far as pricing that depends on a lot of things, starting with materials, balsa core, plywood transom/structure and polyester would be cheaper. Or move up to Coosa transom/structure, foam core and VE the price would go up. Plan is to sell them in any stage, from blank you rig hull without trailer to a complete rigged package with motor and trailer. In any form they would be a hell of a lot cheaper than and STV. This is getting the cart in front of the horse, I need to get one tested.

Will they be a heavy or light layup? We have a buddy with a River Rocket (STV copy) with a heavy layup and a new 250XS and he gets 100mph with 3 guys in it, 105 by himself. It's a blast and I would love to own one. Nice to see you building a badass ride, congrats.
 

JRider

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Will they be a heavy or light layup? We have a buddy with a River Rocket (STV copy) with a heavy layup and a new 250XS and he gets 100mph with 3 guys in it, 105 by himself. It's a blast and I would love to own one. Nice to see you building a badass ride, congrats.

The one being built right now will come in at about 600 dry, it will be durable boat. Vacuum bagging is not an option because the mold does not have a lip. I have had 2 Euros, great boats, if this performs anywhere near how an STV performs I will be ecstatic.
 

JRider

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Top deck gelled white and skinned, coring ready to go in select areas.

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JRider

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Top deck completed with foam coring, rigging tubes, and dash/steering reinforcement.

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AzGeo

Fair winds and following seas George.. Rest Easy..
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Seeing how they 'flattened' the center pod . Once you get it in the water, you can 'loosen it up' quite a lot by adding aluminum plates to that 'indented center pod' .

Trapping air is fine, but getting the whole boat out of the water (and spray) will improve the top speeds and the overall control of this boat .

IF you can get it to 'ride only on the center pod', and have ALL the spray never touch the outer hull in any manner, it will begin to perform as you would like it to be .

I love NEW PROJECTS, keep it up and go faster, safely .............
 

JRider

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Seeing how they 'flattened' the center pod . Once you get it in the water, you can 'loosen it up' quite a lot by adding aluminum plates to that 'indented center pod' .

Trapping air is fine, but getting the whole boat out of the water (and spray) will improve the top speeds and the overall control of this boat .

IF you can get it to 'ride only on the center pod', and have ALL the spray never touch the outer hull in any manner, it will begin to perform as you would like it to be .

I love NEW PROJECTS, keep it up and go faster, safely .............

Thanks George, what you are talking about was somewhat in my plan, that center step concerns me a little bit. I had one similar to it on my Hydrostream HST but it was a longer hull and I dont think it was in the water when aired out. It is a big enough step I have concerns about it not making it out of the water when aired out. I had plans of bonding coosa or PVC for testing. Who knows, if it is well behaved I may not touch it.
 

JRider

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More progress, bottom mold gelcoated white, then black (makes voids easy to detect) and finally skin coated.

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JRider

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Top deck and bottom finally mated, the 3" thick raised transom is going to turn out great. Plan is still to run a 300XS on this, the raised transom would not be necessary for a 12 or 15" mid motor.

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