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Question for the CNC guys

WYRD

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I'm in need if 5 or so aluminum paddles similar to a ping pong paddle. Thick enough to stand up to repeated solid swings of a single Jack hammer against PVC pipe. Doesnt need to be precise fancy as it's just used to smack 5in PVC together. Who would I go to to fab this and what should I expect to pay?
 

RiverDave

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Why would you want something precision for this?

I’m not sure I understand the single swing of a jackhammer?
 

LHC Kirby

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paddle.jpg


LOL
 

WYRD

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Think 1/4" thick aluminum would work? I also have 3/8" thick in stock. H32 and T6. I can draw up and laser cut you something pretty quick. Post up a rough sketch.
Basically yes just like a ping pong paddle handle you hold with a flat round head to smack with a sledgehammer. 1/4 inch would Bend 3/8 might work though
 

WYRD

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Why would you want something precision for this?

I’m not sure I understand the single swing of a jackhammer?
Not looking for precision just something without sharp edges as it will be handled regularly.

Single Jack is a small handheld sledgehammer we use it to smack the end of 5 inch PVC 20 ft length. Usually my guys just use a piece of wood but I've seen other contractors use something similar to what I'm trying to make and it seems to work well
 

CoolCruzin

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Want a ping pong paddle made in alum / steel let me know .
Expensive but would be a cool project
 

Yellowboat

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Just wondering why are you having to hit them with a hammer to get them to go together? Most 5" stuff is still solvent based glue stuff. When everything is correct they should be very easy to go together. Now years back I did get some fittings that were out of spec, way too tight. Might want to check your measurements on your pipe and fitings.


If it's sch 40 ( and iirc) the pipe should be 5.563" and the fittings should be 5.565
 

Bobby V

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Not looking for precision just something without sharp edges as it will be handled regularly.

Single Jack is a small handheld sledgehammer we use it to smack the end of 5 inch PVC 20 ft length. Usually my guys just use a piece of wood but I've seen other contractors use something similar to what I'm trying to make and it seems to work well
Are you trying make the bell end go into the spigot end. Kinda like this video.


 

WYRD

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Just wondering why are you having to hit them with a hammer to get them to go together? Most 5" stuff is still solvent based glue stuff. When everything is correct they should be very easy to go together. Now years back I did get some fittings that were out of spec, way too tight. Might want to check your measurements on your pipe and fitings.


If it's sch 40 ( and iirc) the pipe should be 5.563" and the fittings should be 5.565
When the lengths are 20' sometimes they take a little persuasion
 

Yellowboat

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Conduit changes everything. Belled ends are notorious for being undersized. So much so that they sell reamers to resize them, but bohic. I think bosch still makes an attachment for rotohammers that drive them home.

I will ask the guys tomorrow, the company I work for lays it by the mile.
 

Bobby V

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Yes but for electrical conduit, no rubber o ring
Above ground or under ground electrical. On UG we use a steel bar that goes into the dirt and then we push the pipe forward. Use a lot of grease.
 

WYRD

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Above ground or under ground electrical. On UG we use a steel bar that goes into the dirt and then we push the pipe forward. Use a lot of grease.
Bs5881ss_Install.jpg



Underground but in large duct Banks similar to this picture. The guys do you use bars when there's only one row but multiple rows like this you can't get the leverage you need

* disclaimer not our duct
 

Yellowboat

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Another dumb thought, what about a seal driver that is 5.5" those should be cheap.
 

manxman

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San Bernardino 92410 but it shouldn't be too much to Freight feel free to shoot me a p.m.
I would make them out of 1/2" to 3/4" UHMW or HDPE. Wont hurt or waffle the ends of the pvc pipe. Eventually will conform to the ends of the pipe and center on them over time with more impacts. You would probably be looking at $250 to $300 for 5-6 of the paddles. What color do you want?
 

WYRD

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I would make them out of 1/2" to 3/4" UHMW or HDPE. Wont hurt or waffle the ends of the pvc pipe. Eventually will conform to the ends of the pipe and center on them over time with more impacts. You would probably be looking at $250 to $300 for 5-6 of the paddles. What color do you want?
You don't think the plastic would crack by hitting it with a hammer overtime?
 

Carlson-jet

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a 1/2" X 12" x 12" and an hour with a jigsaw and some wd-40 would get you what you want. You would be surprised how many guys make way more complex things on here with just a few basic tools and a small amount of time. I wish you were closer. I would give you the 6051 plate.
 

Yellowboat

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Federal mogul makes some that are in the 5-6 " range. They should run you 15-20 for the head and 10 for the shaft. They may even have one that has a shoulder at just under 5.5" which would be perfect for 5"

Hell with a circle cutting jig and a router you could make them yourself on the cheap out of al
 

WYRD

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Federal mogul makes some that are in the 5-6 " range. They should run you 15-20 for the head and 10 for the shaft. They may even have one that has a shoulder at just under 5.5" which would be perfect for 5"

Hell with a circle cutting jig and a router you could make them yourself on the cheap out of al
Only issue I see with those would be hand injuries looking for something more like a paddle so the hand is more out of the way
 

Yellowboat

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You don't think the plastic would crack by hitting it with a hammer overtime?
I would trust both of those plastics to last longer then an al one made out of 1/4" plate
 

Yellowboat

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Only issue I see with those would be hand injuries looking for something more like a paddle so the hand is more out of the way
That's why they make pilars/ vise grips
 

redone76

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Basically yes just like a ping pong paddle handle you hold with a flat round head to smack with a sledgehammer. 1/4 inch would Bend 3/8 might work though

I’ll draw something up tomorrow morning. Laser leaves sharp edges but I can vibe deburr them to round the edges. Unless you want them to have a radius on the handle


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

manxman

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You don't think the plastic would crack by hitting it with a hammer overtime?
every punch press and clicker die cutter uses these materials now. They wont last forever, but they wont damage the end of the pipe either.
 

HB2Havasu

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I would just use a 2x4 and a Rubber Mallet?
 

Icky

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They make dead blows that big.

Have you guys ever tried using a come along ? Timber hitch a rope on both ends and put the come along in the middle.
 

monkeyswrench

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Jigsaw and white cutting boards, dress the grip with a flapper wheel. Make a couple on the cheap and see if your guys use them, or leave them in a ditch.(the paddles, not the guys)
 

WYRD

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Jigsaw and white cutting boards, dress the grip with a flapper wheel. Make a couple on the cheap and see if your guys use them, or leave them in a ditch.(the paddles, not the guys)
That is actually a great idea. May have to give it a shot. Thanks :cool:
 

WYRD

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I would just use a 2x4 and a Rubber Mallet?
That is what they do now. Had one of my guys mention they seen another contractor doing it with the paddles and I thought it might be something to look into
 

Yellowboat

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A router and a circle cutter is way better the a jig saw. You can make one in about 5 mins if you do not have a circle cutting jig.
 

Waterjunky

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The other advantage of the plastic cutting board is that the softer plastic won't ring. Trust me, if it was AL and you smack it good while someone has a hold of the handle, their hand will be totally numb and useless after the first pipe. A metal paddle will ring like a bell and will suck.
 

monkeyswrench

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I've used those cutting boards for making profiles on 18 and 20g mild steel...like a buck. Also made some temporary tooling for a friend's Pullmax type power-hammer. They're cheap and pretty durable. The router idea would work good for what you need. I have usually just roughed out a profile with a jig or bandsaw, then filed or sanded pretty. I've used Trex type decking too, but it didn't hold up as long.
 

D19

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If they don’t need to be precision I could cut them out of 3/8 on the band saw and de bur them
 

rrrr

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In accordance with my tendencies to overthink things and make simple processes more complicated, I submit the following. :D

I would fabricate the paddles from ¾" thick HDPE, and using both sides of the piece, I'd mill .1875” circular face insets that correspond to various conduit sizes. Undersize and oversize the groove dimensions .125 or .1875 from actual pipe size.

For example, cut the groove for 3" diameter conduit 2.875 ID and 3.625 OD.

Make the grooves for 1½" and 3" on one side of the paddle, 2" and 4" on the other side. Smaller conduits could be set with the unfaced center of the paddles.

Of course, a plain smooth face would be cheaper, but having a milled inset would allow a faster production rate and be a bit safer, since the paddle would be less likely to slip if hit with a glancing blow.


Schedule 40
TRADE SIZE / AVERAGE OD (IN) / MINIMUM AVERAGE ID (IN)

1-1/2 - 1.900 1.564

2 - 2.375 2.021

3 - 3.500 3.008

4 - 4.500 3.961

 
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