Radius Arms - Canned Ham

[RiverDave]

I'd LOL if that was the case, but for non racers, they are pretty much "set and forget", so I would not be surprised.

My Super ATV rods are L and R threaded, and the rod is even marked on the R threaded side.

Nice hitch cover.

If these are both R, that’s a total fucking joke..

As for the why I’m fixing it.. Mostly OCD. I realize it can’t turn with the outer one tight.

 

[rivermobster]

what is the setup on these? Two in tension and middle in compression? Or?

View attachment 818954

I’m gonna have to do some ninja shit tonight or tomorrow on the can am. That middle one is looser than the rest and the nut that holds it in place is loose..

Unfortunately that nut is in there..

View attachment 818955

Which happens to be attached too

View attachment 818956

Which happens to be one giant solid piece that..

View attachment 818957


There isn’t a wrench I am aware of that is gonna do the task. So option 1 is take the whole freakin car apart to get the cage off of it.. or option 2 is make a wrench.

I designed one in my head and I’m going to machine it later tonight or tomorrow morning so I can tighten the nut.

All that said this one seems to be much looser than the other ones in its current position so it probably needs to go one way or the other. So compression or tension? How much? What’s the proper setup on these?

This has nothing to do with compression or tension. Those are your alignment arms. They adjust the caster, camber and toe.

Do you know how to do an alignment?

Pretty sure the answer is no, so don't fuck with, leave it alone! LoL

As for the hidden nut being loose, yeah, that's a problem that needs to be fixed.

Everyone makes mistakes, but that's a bad one. Should have been double or triple checked before bolting the cage in place, knowing you can't get to it.

That blows. Good thing you checked. The installer has got to be bummed.

 

[RiverDave]

On the one note disassembling the entire right hand side of the car sounds like way more work to me than my little wrench idea.. lol

I’ll make it later tonight. I have to machine a prop for a buddy anyways today.

 

[RiverDave]

This has nothing to do with compression or tension. Those are your alignment arms. They adjust the caster, camber and toe.

Do you know how to do an alignment?

Pretty sure the answer is no, so don't fuck with, leave it alone! LoL

As for the hidden nut being loose, yeah, that's a problem that needs to be fixed.

Everyone makes mistakes, but that's a bad one. Should have been double or triple checked before bolting the cage in place, knowing you can't get to it.

That blows. Good thing you checked. The installer has got to be bummed.

Bitch I was the one that invented alignments.. Before that shit was all misaligned!

 

[buck35]

What is the cage in back bolted to ? By loosening/ removing those bolts can you gain any extra clearance?

 

[rivermobster]

Bitch I was the one that invented alignments.. Before that shit was all misaligned!

Bwahahhahaha!!!

Sure you did!!!!

 

[Ziggy]

On the one note disassembling the entire right hand side of the car sounds like way more work to me than my little wrench idea.. lol

I’ll make it later tonight. I have to machine a prop for a buddy anyways today.

Kustom tools are more common than many think.
All my technicians had tools they made to do certain jobs, lots of 'em actually.

 

[rivermobster]

From looking at the pics only...

The middle arm most likely sets the toe. The others are to set up the camber. That's really all you need on the rear.

But you knew that already, right?

 

[RVR SWPR]

You will get your money’s worth out of that rig parking it in the garage or family room and just looking at it.Cage design gives that thing incredible look.

 

[yz450mm]

We have had problems with the jam nuts on the race car backing off, which led to the Heim shaft starting to wobble and hog out the threads in the bung.

We started putting a small tack weld on each one, and that has kept them tight. In your case, I would definitely throw some permanent Loctite on them.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[2Driver]

Sell it to 2FF

 

[RiverDave]

What is the cage in back bolted to ? By loosening/ removing those bolts can you gain any extra clearance?

They look like studs to me.. and no cages tend not to be very flexible. Lol.

 

[Ziggy]

Sell it to 2FF

LMAO

 

[RiverDave]

From looking at the pics only...

The middle arm most likely sets the toe. The others are to set up the camber. That's really all you need on the rear.

But you knew that already, right?

Yeah I think these just kinda back up the trailing arm. The factory ones are not adjustable at all (to my knowledge?) never saw them in person.

If it’s two sets of right hand threads on these Aftermarket arms I’d be shocked.. but somehow not surprised.

 

[RiverDave]

Sell it to 2FF

He’d post a video the next morning looking at this but that starts with “holy weepin Jesus!”

 

[rivermobster]

Yeah I think these just kinda back up the trailing arm. The factory ones are not adjustable at all (to my knowledge?) never saw them in person.

If it’s two sets of right hand threads on these Aftermarket arms I’d be shocked.. but somehow not surprised.

They basily position the trailing arm, so give you some alignment adjustments. I'm guessing you would set the toe with the center one first, then camber with the other two after. Kinna the opposite of a normal alignment.

Mark the lock nuts and arms with some white out, loosen the nuts, and then try and rotate an arm. You'll find out real quick what type of heim joints you have on each end. Seem strange some of em look like they have zero adjustment left...

 

[buck35]

They look like studs to me.. and no cages tend not to be very flexible. Lol.

Hey, in some instances an eighth or quarter is as good as a foot. That's why we have pry bars and spreaders.

 

[RiverDave]

They basily position the trailing arm, so give you some alignment adjustments. I'm guessing you would set the toe with the center one first, then camber with the other two after. Kinna the opposite of a normal alignment.

Mark the lock nuts and arms with some white out, loosen the nuts, and then try and rotate an arm. You'll find out real quick what type of heim joints you have on each end. Seem strange some of em look like they have zero adjustment left...

Well if they’re both right hand thread it should be simple to center them up. Lmao

 

[rivermobster]

Well if they’re both right hand thread it should be simple to center them up. Lmao

True. Too bad it won't change anything!

 

[RiverDave]

I looked at them closer rivermobster. Uppers have a couple threads .

Centers have more and lowers have even more.

Upper and lowers appear to be similar length Centers are longer.


There is no tow in / out adjustment.. you could probably adjust the camber a little with the play in the trailing arm bushings up front but it’s supposed to be wherever it is.

I’m waiting for Stscy to get home and we are gonna go run this thing.

When I get home I’ll machine Sean’s prop for him and make my little wrench to tighten this little nut and be done with it.

 

[RiverDave]

For the time being we are focusing on the big issues..

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

On the one note disassembling the entire right hand side of the car sounds like way more work to me than my little wrench idea.. lol

I’ll make it later tonight. I have to machine a prop for a buddy anyways today.

It is 4 bolts and a pry bar to free the trailing arm on that corner of the car. I think you can do this without even removing the shock from the trailing arm.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I looked at them closer rivermobster. Uppers have a couple threads .

Centers have more and lowers have even more.

Upper and lowers appear to be similar length Centers are longer.


There is no tow in / out adjustment.. you could probably adjust the camber a little with the play in the trailing arm bushings up front but it’s supposed to be wherever it is.

View attachment 819034


I’m waiting for Stscy to get home and we are gonna go run this thing.

When I get home I’ll machine Sean’s prop for him and make my little wrench to tighten this little nut and be done with it.

By the looks of that the rods were not quite centered on the heims when they were assembled.

Those radius rods ARE the camber and toe adjustment, they were just non adjustable from the factory.

That center radius rod is basically a slave to the upper and lower rods. It just makes aligning the car more of a pain compared to the Polaris dual radius rod setup.

I'd align the car with the uppers and lowers, then when you were done, just adjust the middle rod to fit the holes and bolt it in. If it was L & R threaded, that would make the task much easier.

 

[RiverDave]

It is 4 bolts and a pry bar to free the trailing arm on that corner of the car. I think you can do this without even removing the shock from the trailing arm.

have personally done this on a can am? Because I am looking at nuts on the back of this thing? So are the bolts in backwards and come out the front? Or are they studs?

(I’m just looking at the pics on my phone)

Honestly it kicks my ass (foot) just to barely bend over and look at it. I’ll hobble out there again in a few minutes to look closer.

 

[RiverDave]

By the looks of that the rods were not quite centered on the heims when it was assembled.

Those rods ARE the camber and toe adjustment, they were just non adjustable from the factory.

That center radius rod is basically a slave to the upper and lower rods. It just makes aligning the car more of a pain compared to the Polaris dual radius rod setup.

I'd align the car with the uppers and lowers, then when you were done, just adjust the middle rod to fit the holes and bolt it in.

The pics are deceiving because you can’t see both ends. They are centered.

I don’t know how much tow in / out you could actually get before the rotating point at the front when start to bind? Seems like you’d have to move it quite a bit to get any kind of actual in/out in terms of degrees.

I could believe camber, but with the axis so far away for tow in/out?

You in Havasu? Come look at this thing.

 

[Waffles]

Lol.. I’d still buy you a beer.. or a goat whatever.

ill make the effort to stop by when you come to LA

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

have personally done this on a can am? Because I am looking at nuts on the back of this thing? So are the bolts in backwards and come out the front? Or are they studs?

(I’m just looking at the pics on my phone)

Honestly it kicks my ass (foot) just to barely bend over and look at it. I’ll hobble out there again in a few minutes to look closer.

From the factory they are studs but they are 3 seperate plates and flagged together in pairs. The plates are not attached to the car. So yea you will need to remove all 6 radius rod bolts, push the studs back to release that corner of the car, so likely 7 bolts total.

On the driver side, as you slid the stud plates out the back, I'd slide another similar sized bolt in from the front to keep them aligned.

It will be a little juggling getting the rods back in their homes, but whatever gets the job done.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

The pics are deceiving because you can’t see both ends. They are centered.

I don’t know how much tow in / out you could actually get before the rotating point at the front when start to bind? Seems like you’d have to move it quite a bit to get any kind of actual in/out in terms of degrees.

I could believe camber, but with the axis so far away for tow in/out?

You in Havasu? Come look at this thing.

I will be there Monday.

When we are talking toe adjustment, we are talking minimal amounts of change. For any "normal" amount of toe adjustment, you won't bind up the front trailing arm pivot. You aren't going to put another inch of toe in into it, the thing wouldn't drive right. But if you wanted to put an extra 1/4" of toe, it would be fine.

 

[hawgty55]

For the time being we are focusing on the big issues..

View attachment 819035

That was killing me! Phew

 

[RiverDave]

From the factory they are studs but they are 3 seperate plates and flagged together in pairs. The plates are not attached to the car. So yea you will need to remove all 6 radius rod bolts, push the studs back to release that corner of the car, so likely 7 bolts total.

I’ll go look at it in a few. Even that sounds like a lot more work to me than turning up a tool real quick.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I’ll go look at it in a few. Even that sounds like a lot more work to me than turning up a tool real quick.

Well either way works. If you make the tool, throw it in for field tool kit. Check all the jam nuts while you are messing around back there.

 

[rivermobster]

I looked at them closer rivermobster. Uppers have a couple threads .

Centers have more and lowers have even more.

Upper and lowers appear to be similar length Centers are longer.


There is no tow in / out adjustment.. you could probably adjust the camber a little with the play in the trailing arm bushings up front but it’s supposed to be wherever it is.

View attachment 819034


I’m waiting for Stscy to get home and we are gonna go run this thing.

When I get home I’ll machine Sean’s prop for him and make my little wrench to tighten this little nut and be done with it.

This is a way better pic...

You can see the center rod is at the rear of the spindle (furthest one back). That being the case, it is definitely a toe adjustment. The others are to set the camber. That should be the first adjustment (camber), then the toe adjustment last.

Are the heims both the same thread on each end?? That would be a joke if they were. Like LOF said, you would have to adjust then assemble. What a retarded set-up that would be.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

This is a way better pic...

You can see the center rod is at the rear of the spindle (furthest one back). That being the case, it is definitely a toe adjustment. The others are to set the camber. That should be the first adjustment (camber), then the toe adjustment last.

Are the heims both the same thread on each end?? That would be a joke if they were. Like LOF said, you would have to adjust then assemble. What a retarded set-up that would be.

The caveat is that you can't adjust any one radius rod without adjusting at least one of the other two. All 3 rods set camber and toe, and they can't be adjusted independently. there is no eccentric or slotted adjustment in the mounts like you'd see on a car.

A RZR only has 2 radius rods, so the alignment is way easier. I adjust the top and bottom equally to set toe, then either the top or bottom alone to set camber.. and I'm done.

 

[02HoWaRd26]

Adding a little toe will also help it track. Rear toe in a tad front toe out a tad for good tracking. Doesn’t work on asphalt but if you bought that solely for asphalt you’re GAY like Grads.

 

[Cole Trickle]

Check the lug nuts and tie rods before you thrash on it....Could be the best shop in the world but when it comes down to it a dude making $13 an hour is doing the wrenching and things get missed. Make sure everything is good before you load up the family

Thing turned out bad ass!

 

[rivermobster]

The caveat is that you can't adjust any one radius rod without adjusting at least one of the other two. All 3 rods set camber and toe, and they can't be adjusted independently. there is no eccentric or slotted adjustment in the mounts like you'd see on a car.

A RZR only has 2 radius rods, so the alignment is way easier. I adjust the top and bottom equally to set toe, then either the top or bottom alone to set camber.. and I'm done.

Yeah, I hear ya. You Should be able to adjust the center one independently of the other two. You Should be able to just twist the rod(s), and have it move in or out. If they are both RH threads, you'd be fucked. *shrug*

Hard to tell from here.

 

[rivermobster]

@LargeOrangeFont

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0235/0973/files/AI-install-CanAmX3RadRods.pdf?7967369786941403265

See number "Important" and "#6"

Looks like they are all RH threads from reading the instructions.

 

[Bobby V]

Check the lug nuts and tie rods before you thrash on it....Could be the best shop in the world but when it comes down to it a dude making $13 an hour is doing the wrenching and things get missed. Make sure everything is good before you load up the family

Thing turned out bad ass!

Yep. This happened to me coming back from shooting off of Bison after I had my long travel installed by a "pro". I did a quick 180* turn. Wheel ended up about 100' down the road.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

@LargeOrangeFont

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0235/0973/files/AI-install-CanAmX3RadRods.pdf?7967369786941403265

See number "Important" and "#6"

Looks like they are all RH threads from reading the instructions.

Bummer.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Adding a little toe will also help it track. Rear toe in a tad front toe out a tad for good tracking. Doesn’t work on asphalt but if you bought that solely for asphalt you’re GAY like Grads.

That works really good on the street in small amounts. You absolutely need some rear toe in to keep it from wandering under acceleration.

 

[Waffles]

Yep. This happened to me coming back from shooting off of Bison after I had my long travel installed by a "pro". I did a quick 180* turn. Wheel ended up about 100' down the road. View attachment 819041 View attachment 819042

FWIW, i never trusted the older style stake nuts Yamaha used on Rhino axles. My driver rear came off at stoddard wells while i was going 50.
Saw that the old style were superseded and ended up swapping all of them out for new ones.

 

[RiverDave]

FWIW, i never trusted the older style stake nuts Yamaha used on Rhino axles. My driver rear came off at stoddard wells while i was going 50.
Saw that the old style were superseded and ended up swapping all of them out for new ones.

Your rhino ran 50?

 

[EmpirE231]

dremel tool to put a couple small notches in the nut. long ass flat head screw driver and a hammer. back it off first, squirt some loctite in, and then tighten it back up = problem solved

 

[240Hallett]

Your rhino ran 50?

It’s the 100 mph jet boat of the SXS world

 

[outboard_256]

we had a couple of guys using assult arms and they were complete junk. All right hand threads so we would have to pull all the bars off to adjust to align then you have to do simulate ride height, then take it all apart, adjust, then install and check again. Then after that you can't tighten down the nuts unless you use a pipe wrench or vice grips on the alum to get a good torque. Then even after that the heim joints would get loose and ovalize the hole. Customer support was horrible and everyone just ended up switching to CT race worx

 

[joecfd1]

Your rhino ran 50?

Dave-

Not to jack your thread but what license are you doing on your Canned Ham? Full street??

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Dave-

Not to jack your thread but what license are you doing on your Canned Ham? Full street??

Not to answer for him but, yea that is the only option if you are gonna drive on the street more than crossing the road.

 

[Tank]

Take lots of pics when you run that biotch today. I can live vicariously through you.

 

[RiverDave]

Dave-

Not to jack your thread but what license are you doing on your Canned Ham? Full street??

Yeah. Living here I always do the full street and full coverage with big limits.

 

[RiverDave]

Take lots of pics when you run that biotch today. I can live vicariously through you.

Will do