hallett21
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Alright I wanna know about the prop you’re machining
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Your rhino ran 50?
Try aiming the fronts out about a total of 1/2” before your next decent distance dirt ride. Car will turn twice as hard and track straighter everywhere else.That works really good on the street in small amounts. You absolutely need some rear toe in to keep it from wandering under acceleration.
Looks great with some dirt on it!
cheers!
Try aiming the fronts out about a total of 1/2” before your next decent distance dirt ride. Car will turn twice as hard and track straighter everywhere else.
These things take some of the sport out of it.. lol.
Way faster thank I’ll ever need to go in the desert.
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With the stronger radius rods you need to keep a few extra center rod knuckle bolts. Now that your center rod wont fail the bolt is next in line to fail. Seems to happen to someone when I'm riding with a group of 40 cars on the annual winter and spring runs. View attachment 819326
Shocking but yes. Clocked it going 56 a couple of times on GPS on the stoddard Wells and rasor rd's main road. I dumped a ton of fucking money into that thing to make it what it wasYour rhino ran 50?
Well i use 1/2” but I’m also 91” wide on 35’s. But yea once you go toe out it’s hard to toe in ever again.Yea that will rip in the dirt.. those tires will be howling on the street though. I have about 1/4” toe out up front on my RZR now, which is quite a bit more than stock.
Well i use 1/2” but I’m also 91” wide on 35’s. But yea once you go toe out it’s hard to toe in ever again.
Shocking but yes. Clocked it going 56 a couple of times on GPS on the stoddard Wells and rasor rd's main road. I dumped a ton of fucking money into that thing to make it what it was
I always heard toe in up front tracks straighter, not as twitchy on the steering. Toe out the oppositeTry aiming the fronts out about a total of 1/2” before your next decent distance dirt ride. Car will turn twice as hard and track straighter everywhere else.
Asphalt vs Dirt.I always heard toe in up front tracks straighter, not as twitchy on the steering. Toe out the opposite
I always heard toe in up front tracks straighter, not as twitchy on the steering. Toe out the opposite
Asphalt vs Dirt.
I could never get it up to speed on pavement. It always felt like it was struggling to cycle the belt through the sheave. That little bit of give I'd get from the silt on hard pack made a night and day difference.Mine hit like 48 GPS on flat ground. Stock motor and exhaust. It felt like I was doing 100 lol.
I could never get it up to speed on pavement. It always felt like it was struggling to cycle the belt through the sheave. That little bit of give I'd get from the silt on hard pack made a night and day difference.
I had a new wet clutch slugged and installed. Machined Hunterworks sheave shimmed with 15g rollers... Purple secondary on slippery washers. Dynatek cdi, alba exhaust, rejetted......... I did everything short of throwing a big bore on it lol
And yes it was terrifying. It didn't help that I had quarter doors so it always felt like I was going to fly out
107 responses on how to tighten a SxS nut. It must be winter.![]()
LMAO! Yes!!
But even though I’m crippled I’m getting better! So expect a lot of boat and offroad content this winter!
Fired up my lathe for the first time in about 8 months.
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Mine hit like 48 GPS on flat ground. Stock motor and exhaust. It felt like I was doing 100 lol.
So what’s the story on the prop?
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I'm in the "fine tuning" stages of getting my boat squared away. Dave did me a solid and trimmed an inch off the prop tube.Cutting off the diffuser ring it looks like.
That’s a little nerve-wracking firing up the lathe with a prop chucked up in it lol.
Dave just hit it with a file. Just break the burr.
Dave just hit it with a file. Just break the burr.
Does that count as trying a different prop?
It's a whole different animal. Boat ran 82 with 3 guys and ~30 gallons of gas.Does that count as trying a different prop?![]()
It's a whole different animal. Boat ran 82 with 3 guys and ~30 gallons of gas.
Handled fine, however it seems to have developed a very small midrange porpoise that wasnt there before.
A long tube will actually provide stern lift in a surfacing application. Its essentially another running surface that is "riding" on the water. A long tube will also act as a "wheelie bar", limiting how much trim can be put into the boat. In my specific application, I'm trying to accomplish 2 things. Lose the drag from the extra length of the tube, and allow the boat to carry the bow a tiny bit higher, (also reducing drag, by having less boat in the water)...What was you baseline- speed/weight
I’ve been told the mod will lift the ass of the boat. That may create some porpoising. I’m going to try it soon - same prop, 30p
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In this pic, I'm trimmed up just a tick above neutral trim. When I set up the simrad, I was able to "calibrate" to my desired settings. Using a straight edge, projecting a line from the boat bottom to the cav plate, theres approximately 3/8" of difference front to back. I have this set as my "zero" point. I always know exactly where my trim is at at a glance. The rest is "ass-o-graph".... you can see where the spray is coming off the boat, and you can actually feel it "free up".What was you baseline- speed/weight
I’ve been told the mod will lift the ass of the boat. That may create some porpoising. I’m going to try it soon - same prop, 30p
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In this pic, I'm trimmed up just a tick above neutral trim. When I set up the simrad, I was able to "calibrate" to my desired settings. Using a straight edge, projecting a line from the boat bottom to the cav plate, theres approximately 3/8" of difference front to back.
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