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squeezer

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got some examples of those?

The one we sold (And no the people we sold it to wont sell it back...)


1999 36’ U320. Didn’t realize how rare a high HP 36 footer is until trying to find another one.

Was the standard ugly coach with bad graphics on the outside and ugly gold on the inside.

AFB1DB95-4ED5-4A47-86CC-DADF7E70F955.jpeg



The first thing we did was remove the recliner and small desk. Kids were both in cribs and that’s where they went.

11090B1F-0EB2-4A4C-BD1C-0DB3CD83F623.jpeg


Had also replaced the couch like captains chairs with real automotive buckets. Two arm rests and shoulder belts were required. These are 2nd row Toyota Sienna seats. Kids rode in car seats facing front and rear that were strapped to the couch.

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Then came the closet to bunk bed conversion. Was really easy actually. Banks folded down, bars kept little ones in place. Opened the left door to get them in and out.

4464A34E-0AA8-4E49-8D54-CA5F7AA2B404.jpeg


When they got bigger the door was replaced with a ladder.

8AD13ED3-CF45-4DB2-B45D-7FE53E1A7ABE.jpeg


Also added two more of the Sienna buckets. This was an important thing to me, kids traveling sitting sideways with crappy RV lap belts was a non starter. (Fab’d sandwich plates that picked up the structural members) Overkill is just enough when it comes to my kids.

B1B0E8BC-7A59-4627-B633-CDE03751F1BF.jpeg
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Removed all the graphics and traded out the duals for super singles. The wide base tires reduced the NVH levels... They should be standard on couches...


Threw this all up to serve as an example of what can be done. There are very few bunkhouse DP’s, anything you find will be fairly new and fairly expensive. It is however really easy to add them in a closet or in the cabinets. How many of us remember the cabinet/beds in some of the 70’s truck campers?

Buy the best chassis you can and remodel to suit. It’s the location-location-location thing of motor homes.
 

2FORCEFULL

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If going DP then expect atleast 37 feet. I tried to get under 37, but they have handling issues with the short wheel base and you end up putting counter weights, etc. Plus for used market makes them hard to find. When you get to 37 a lot more options open up and variety. I don't know if you are going to like the floor plans on the DP.
34' dp's are nothing short of horrible. little 6.7 truck motors, freight shaker chassis ,35 mph up grades when towing, then add the cheep junk fit and finish.... but.... I stumbled on to the alpine....8.9 400hp...it had the side radiator, so the smaller rear over hang...neway air ride, built on the huck bolt peak chassis..super nice quality coach,... but in the end... it just set and I bought a secound little rv for my type of use...
 

BIGRED9158

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2FORCEFULL

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The one we sold (And no the people we sold it to wont sell it back...)


1999 36’ U320. Didn’t realize how rare a high HP 36 footer is until trying to find another one.

Was the standard ugly coach with bad graphics on the outside and ugly gold on the inside.

View attachment 924530


The first thing we did was remove the recliner and small desk. Kids were both in cribs and that’s where they went.

View attachment 924531

Had also replaced the couch like captains chairs with real automotive buckets. Two arm rests and shoulder belts were required. These are 2nd row Toyota Sienna seats. Kids rode in car seats facing front and rear that were strapped to the couch.

View attachment 924532 View attachment 924534 View attachment 924533 View attachment 924535

Then came the closet to bunk bed conversion. Was really easy actually. Banks folded down, bars kept little ones in place. Opened the left door to get them in and out.

View attachment 924536

When they got bigger the door was replaced with a ladder.

View attachment 924537

Also added two more of the Sienna buckets. This was an important thing to me, kids traveling sitting sideways with crappy RV lap belts was a non starter. (Fab’d sandwich plates that picked up the structural members) Overkill is just enough when it comes to my kids.

View attachment 924540 View attachment 924541 View attachment 924542



Removed all the graphics and traded out the duals for super singles. The wide base tires reduced the NVH levels... They should be standard on couches...


Threw this all up to serve as an example of what can be done. There are very few bunkhouse DP’s, anything you find will be fairly new and fairly expensive. It is however really easy to add them in a closet or in the cabinets. How many of us remember the cabinet/beds in some of the 70’s truck campers?

Buy the best chassis you can and remodel to suit. It’s the location-location-location thing of motor homes.
NVH???? not very hard????
 

rickym20

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Just my humble opinion, I know some guys like them but for the size trailer you are looking to haul in the future I would take the older jayco Seneca off your radar. We had an 06’ /duramax and towed an 26ft enclosed that had 50 gallon water and 50 gallon fuel along with the toys. 35 mph up some grades and if it was a single lane road then also meant a mile of cars behind you cursing you out haha.
You would need to invest some money in suspension upgrades as well to overcome the large overhang. Just seems to be better options out there. Good luck with what ever you guys choose. We decided to go back to the truck/toyhauler combo.
2883AEE9-2464-4EC3-8969-1BE14EAAD891.jpeg
 

Flyinbowtie

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Dave...

Thought I'd add my two cents worth.
We have owned a few over the years. I have found there are a couple of things you need to do when shopping for an RV. On the first walk through stop and take a look at the toilet arrangement, and step inside the room it is in and make damn sure you can sit on the thing and close the door.
I have a dear friend who bought a brand new Class C RV and didn't find out he could not sit on the toilet with the bathroom door closed until they were in the desert on their first trip. He is 6-3ish. Knees hit the door before it closed. Piss poor design, but nothing thrills the family like being kicked out of the house every morning if ya get my drift. They had that thing less than a year and took a serious $ bath on it.
I have been around enough of these things to know there are only a couple of classes of RV, cheap junk and expensive junk. The cheap junk is really more trouble than it is worth. The expensive junk is much better, but it is still junk. The high end pushers like squeezer suggests are the way I would go were I doing a Class A. A well maintained older higher end pusher is what I would look at. Understand that the worst thing you can do with one of these machines is let it sit in the side yard. They need to be run, not just around town but get out on the road and worked They require a commitment to maintenance if you want to be able to jump in and go and not worry about crap failing, because these things will give you misery if ya don't stay on top of them.
You need to go in eyes wide open to what you are taking on.
Ya gotta stay on top of it. With your connections that should not be a problem, but remember it has to be done. As a Dad few things suck as much as having the family all wound up and ready to go on The Big Trip only to find the RV is broken, and the part to fix is 10 days out. Worse yet, it breaks 200 miles or more from home.

Have fun with the hunt, we have not been without an RV of some kind since our sons were little like your kids, this is the time to do it, you will make memories they will never forget, and ultimately that is what makes the juice worth the squeeze when it comes to owning an RV.
There is a line somewhere where owning vs. renting becomes an issue when just looking at the $ perspective, but we all like owning them so we can mess with them and making them our own.
 

RogerThat99

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The one we sold (And no the people we sold it to wont sell it back...)


1999 36’ U320. Didn’t realize how rare a high HP 36 footer is until trying to find another one.

Was the standard ugly coach with bad graphics on the outside and ugly gold on the inside.

View attachment 924530


The first thing we did was remove the recliner and small desk. Kids were both in cribs and that’s where they went.

View attachment 924531

Had also replaced the couch like captains chairs with real automotive buckets. Two arm rests and shoulder belts were required. These are 2nd row Toyota Sienna seats. Kids rode in car seats facing front and rear that were strapped to the couch.

View attachment 924532 View attachment 924534 View attachment 924533 View attachment 924535

Then came the closet to bunk bed conversion. Was really easy actually. Banks folded down, bars kept little ones in place. Opened the left door to get them in and out.

View attachment 924536

When they got bigger the door was replaced with a ladder.

View attachment 924537

Also added two more of the Sienna buckets. This was an important thing to me, kids traveling sitting sideways with crappy RV lap belts was a non starter. (Fab’d sandwich plates that picked up the structural members) Overkill is just enough when it comes to my kids.

View attachment 924540 View attachment 924541 View attachment 924542



Removed all the graphics and traded out the duals for super singles. The wide base tires reduced the NVH levels... They should be standard on couches...


Threw this all up to serve as an example of what can be done. There are very few bunkhouse DP’s, anything you find will be fairly new and fairly expensive. It is however really easy to add them in a closet or in the cabinets. How many of us remember the cabinet/beds in some of the 70’s truck campers?

Buy the best chassis you can and remodel to suit. It’s the location-location-location thing of motor homes.
I agree. That is a great setup. We stayed with my Parents in their 40' DP a few times when we were in between RVs. With young kids at the time, it was a pain in the ass to have to put all the beds and porta crib away first thing in the morning, as you couldn't move around with everything out, even with 4 slides. That is why I never got a DP, because i couldn't find one with bunks. Nice setup.

Sent From Tapatalk
 

RCDave

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You got a lot of kids, you may need a diesel pusher and a toy hauler behind it. Then momma and you can enjoy the DP and the kids can destroy the toy hauler.

That's not a bad suggestion. Makes much sense. If you can find a TH that is small and light enough
 

SkyDirtWaterguy

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Will this be a long term purchase or a flip??🤔

Will it be towing the new pontoon boat?
 
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seanroberts

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This gives you an idea of ours. It is big 40’6”. I’ve had it in national parks and plenty of spaces they say are for 32’ max.

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stephenkatsea

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We were very happy when we bought our 40’ Bighorn by Heartland fifth wheel. Our prior was a 30’ Wanderer by Thor. Not too impressed with the quality. So, who buys Heartland days after we purchased the Bighorn? Thor Industries. I’m told there are now only a few parent companies in the RV world. Thor is apparently one of the big ones.
 

HCP3

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You got a lot of kids, you may need a diesel pusher and a toy hauler behind it. Then momma and you can enjoy the DP and the kids can destroy the toy hauler.

Good idea until you need to hook-up (or fill), un-hook and dump two rigs.
 

DaveC

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I use a Class A gas with a Ford V10 and tow a 24’ enclosed. it does this really well. Georgetown 32 Ds is 35’ long. It is no sports car and is kinda rough but it gets the job done and drives fine. Plenty of interior room. Sleeps 8

With class A you get a stronger chassis and better brakes than the class C gasser. The A drives better too.

The pushers have more power and carry more weight and do everything just that much better.

The good thing about pushers and class A’s is they have a 50 degree cut on the front wheels. So they turn very sharp which helps maneuvering in tight situations

We are limited on size with the forest campgrounds we go to so we are careful with the overall length. But going to the desert those size limitations really don’t really apply. so it depends on what you are doing.

The pusher has a bit more power but I can pull a hill just fine. The gasser has lower gears and the Ford V10 makes good power up top so it runs good. I used to be in a hurry but towing with my kids with that much weight going down the highway, now I just take it easy so we all arrive in one piece.

I don’t use the RV much so I couldn’t justify spending twice what I paid for the gasser for the diesel. The floorplans are basically identical. If I used it more and drove more then I would have gone diesel.

FCFD7D26-78B7-44BC-B47B-695EB372593B.jpeg
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01erionracing

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Dave,
I recently bought 1999 Holiday Rambler Navigator 40 WDS equipped with Cummins ISM 450 hp/1450 Ft/Lb TQ/4000 Allison, drove home 1400 miles from Dallas at 110° F without any issue. The motorhome handling very well at 75+ mph (GPS speed) passing the semis and being passed by semis.
The seating position is taller compared to the semis and very open.

I'd like to share with you the guide that I created in several years for my future motorhome.
Power to weight ratio 100 HP (usually 300 ft/lb TQ) per 10k lbs or 100 HP per 10 feet in length.
10k lbs towing hitch
Bath and a half is nice but you might loose some storage.
Separate shower and toilet.
Tag axle is nice too and remember it adding more weight to the motor. (I have no problem when passing and being passed by a semis on my non tag axle).
Year 2000 - 2008 seems to be better build quality and no issue with diesel DPF and DEF
I prefer Cummins over CAT because part availability and Cummins is more popular, I am a DIY guys so I try to do my own maintenance.
Brand will be Monaco, Holiday Rambler(same as Monaco), ForeTravel, Alpine Coach, Travel Supreme and Country Coach with side radiator.
To me the motor power/trans is more important because it is harder to upgrade later so I'd like to get the most power that I can afford. The interior could be upgrade/redesign later.
Doing some research I found earlier Cummins ISM(non EGR) with Allison 4000 seems to be very reliable and most of day cab semi truck and garbage truck are equipped with this power trans package.

As of right now I am removing the floor carpet and tile, I will put in LVP flooring, upgrade all lighting to recessed LED, reupholster two sofas, driver and passenger seat, redo all audio, fixing and upgrade all 20 years is old house pieces but so far they are still in good shape. I also will retrofit bixenon projector head light and LED tail light.
Hopefully it will be done in few months. Here is a photo
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02.jpg

44.jpg

45.jpg
 
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hawgty55

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Sounds like you know what you want. There are a couple super Cs in mesa I think not sure if there bunk models. I thought thats what we wanted but most of them are really small or right next to master. One thing about my last one was apposing slides in the living room. And yes you'll need a diesel.
20190305_115334.jpg
 

RiverDave

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You got a lot of kids, you may need a diesel pusher and a toy hauler behind it. Then momma and you can enjoy the DP and the kids can destroy the toy hauler.

I need 24-28 of cargo room depending on what we are taking.. lol. Kinda limits the toy hailer options..
 

RiverDave

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I use a Class A gas with a Ford V10 and tow a 24’ enclosed. it does this really well. Georgetown 32 Ds is 35’ long. It is no sports car and is kinda rough but it gets the job done and drives fine. Plenty of interior room. Sleeps 8

With class A you get a stronger chassis and better brakes than the class C gasser. The A drives better too.

The pushers have more power and carry more weight and do everything just that much better.

The good thing about pushers and class A’s is they have a 50 degree cut on the front wheels. So they turn very sharp which helps maneuvering in tight situations

We are limited on size with the forest campgrounds we go to so we are careful with the overall length. But going to the desert those size limitations really don’t really apply. so it depends on what you are doing.

The pusher has a bit more power but I can pull a hill just fine. The gasser has lower gears and the Ford V10 makes good power up top so it runs good. I used to be in a hurry but towing with my kids with that much weight going down the highway, now I just take it easy so we all arrive in one piece.

I don’t use the RV much so I couldn’t justify spending twice what I paid for the gasser for the diesel. The floorplans are basically identical. If I used it more and drove more then I would have gone diesel.

View attachment 924612 View attachment 924613

I have been told to not do this.. this post gives me hope though because I find all kinds of really good looking / fancy rv’s sub 100 that are gassers...


Stacy wants a diesel, but the Jayco Owner above was describing towing problems.
 

Racer56

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I have been told to not do this.. this post gives me hope though because I find all kinds of really good looking / fancy rv’s sub 100 that are gassers...


Stacy wants a diesel, but the Jayco Owner above was describing towing problems.

How many times a year are you going to use the moho? I rent a bunkhouse class A four or five times a year and tow my race car with it. The RV I posted earlier in the thread has everything you are looking for and is in a price range that doesn't break the bank. The Ford V10's do a decent job towing, are easy to work on and are cheap to maintain. In an ideal world a diesel pusher is the only way to go, but it is really hard to justify spending that kind of coin for something you don't put a lot of miles on per year.
 

RCDave

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RD, just make absolute sure the weights you plan to tow and the weight to be contained in the RV are well within all tow ratings of the RV.

Most gassers don't have sufficient capacities to tow what youre planning.

Family safety is paramount
 

Boat Potato

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I have been told to not do this.. this post gives me hope though because I find all kinds of really good looking / fancy rv’s sub 100 that are gassers...


Stacy wants a diesel, but the Jayco Owner above was describing towing problems.
As long as you add the extra leaf springs or air bags, the jayco will be good.
 

JLG614

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Also a thought that i have not seen mentioned. There are a few years of cummins motors between 04 and 06 i believe that have a faulty part in the motor that can cause catastrophic fail in the engine and you basically have to replace the whole thing $20k+. I didn't realize that when i bought my new motorhome this year (2005 Country Coach) and about had a heart attack while i was trying to find the serial number on my motor. if you type in ISC cummins on google it will come up and give you the range of serial numbers that were faulty.

Like most have said, the best built coaches are 2000-2008, they will ALL have problems, doesn't matter what you buy. Stick with the better quality Class A, Monaco, beaver, holiday rambler, country coach, foretravel, Prevost (pricey), Newmar, Tiffin, Travel supreme (these have bracing issues). If you go Super C i would only buy Renegade, showhauler, S&S, maybe a Seneca?

My previous coach was a fleetwood revolution, the quality was ok and i chased a roof leak for almost 2 years before i sold it. put $20k into the roof and it still wasn't right. try to go with the one piece fiberglass roof over the rubber membrane style. way less maintenance
 

Riverfamlee

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You guys probably need to sit down and really talk about how and where you are going to be using it. How big they are with the slides in is a big one too. Some coaches are useless unless the slides are out.

For us we knew it was going to the desert so a 100 gallon fresh tank was a must. The girls don't like hearing "We are out of water, you can shower at home". I still laugh at my buddy when he has to carry an extra tank just for water.

I would look for the shortest coach possible that will sleep and tow what you need. If you're not full timing it , that thing is going to sit way more than you think.
 

JDub24

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I would just buy a nice enclosed trailer and deck it out(Heat/AC, toilet, power) so the kids can sleep in there. Insulate it and hang 4 folding couch/beds off the walls and you’re done. Get whatever size moho at that point and not break the bank.
 

v6toy4x

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Without limiting to a budget my honest answer is you can not beat the Super C for heavy towing, the chassis were designed and built for just that for 100s of thousands of miles.

However to stay on budget I think the first question is what sort of power do you really need or want? IMHO that is relative to overall weight and whether or not you intend to pull in the mountains and don't want to be that guy holding everyone up, and don't want to have to worry about the transmission's life. In the diesel RV world if you want more power you pay exponentially be cause along with the power comes a bigger trans!!


With that said you will want, at a minimum, the cummins ISL9 (350/1150) and the allison 3200TRV or BIGGER. You will not find that drivetrain in a super C for anywhere near 100 primarily because the "super C" class is relativley new and the majority of the used units have the smaller cummins ISB 6.7, much more economical purchase price.

So DP is the answer, look for early 2000s country coaches, they were very well built, great reputation as a higher end unit and often had big power. You can find a 30-40K mile rig for 80-100 probably fairly easily.

I would target 2005 and newer 30K miles with L9 (350/1150) and allisson 3200 as a minimum, watch out for bigger CAT ACERT power (07 and newer) they had serious emissions issues.

My 2 cents for what that is worth, I don't even know if I answered your question but undoubtedly you will get the info you need, you got a pretty good thing going here!

DO NOT GET UNDER-POWERED YOU WILL REGRET IT
 

01erionracing

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Also a thought that i have not seen mentioned. There are a few years of cummins motors between 04 and 06 i believe that have a faulty part in the motor that can cause catastrophic fail in the engine and you basically have to replace the whole thing $20k+. I didn't realize that when i bought my new motorhome this year (2005 Country Coach) and about had a heart attack while i was trying to find the serial number on my motor. if you type in ISC cummins on google it will come up and give you the range of serial numbers that were faulty.

Like most have said, the best built coaches are 2000-2008, they will ALL have problems, doesn't matter what you buy. Stick with the better quality Class A, Monaco, beaver, holiday rambler, country coach, foretravel, Prevost (pricey), Newmar, Tiffin, Travel supreme (these have bracing issues). If you go Super C i would only buy Renegade, showhauler, S&S, maybe a Seneca?

My previous coach was a fleetwood revolution, the quality was ok and i chased a roof leak for almost 2 years before i sold it. put $20k into the roof and it still wasn't right. try to go with the one piece fiberglass roof over the rubber membrane style. way less maintenance
Regarding the Cummins motor issue not sure if it is the same but I had this in my notes
CERTAIN ISL CUMMINS CM850 DIESEL ENGINES PRODUCED FOR RECREATIONAL VEHICLE APPLICATIONS BETWEEN OCTOBER 17, 2005, AND APRIL 18, 2006, WITH ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER RANGE FROM 46543077 TO 46603939. THE CONNECTING ROD CONTAINS A MACHINING DEFECT IN THE WRIST PIN BUSHING OF THE ROD THAT COULD CAUSE SEIZURE OF THE PISTON PIN
 

DaveC

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Why do they tell you not to do it?

I am not saying that the gasser is better than the diesel cuz it’s not. But the gasser does just fine towing. I hardly notice the trailer. it goes straight down the highway, brakes fine, handles shitty windy steep mountain roads fine. Some of the crappy roads we drive on you would be surprised.

the comparable diesel in size with the right motor was double the price. I could not justify with my low usage. Longest trip I ever took was 450 miles. We are weekend warriors at best.

The gasser is fine. Noisy and get bad gas mileage but they do the job.

I am within my tow ratings.

I have been told to not do this.. this post gives me hope though because I find all kinds of really good looking / fancy rv’s sub 100 that are gassers...


Stacy wants a diesel, but the Jayco Owner above was describing towing problems.

Another thing is I won’t own an RV more than 10 years old. Not just No but hell no. I just don’t want to take the risk of leaks developing and delamination. no thanks. Plus all the stuff that needs upgrades. Roofs, seals, etc. I buy them new or newer and sell them when they reach 10 years old.
 
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RCDave

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So this thing is a little pricey but it checks all the boxes?
not sure about the windows / door with the blinds I’m the bathroom?

Monacos from that era were built pretty well. Bunk house dps are very hard to find.

The only downsides are the cummins is the smaller lowered powered 8.3l and that chassis rides stiff. On the other hand that 8.3 is pretty bullet proof and the chassis handles well (minimal lean and stable in cross winds).
 

DaveC

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The gas RV is the half ton pickup of the RV world ;)
 

fmo24

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So this thing is a little pricey but it checks all the boxes?
not sure about the windows / door with the blinds I’m the bathroom?

I did not see a dinette or table and chairs. When weather is shitty do You want all your kids crap in the living room? Jus me nit picking or adding food for thought
 

Taboma

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Without limiting to a budget my honest answer is you can not beat the Super C for heavy towing, the chassis were designed and built for just that for 100s of thousands of miles.

However to stay on budget I think the first question is what sort of power do you really need or want? IMHO that is relative to overall weight and whether or not you intend to pull in the mountains and don't want to be that guy holding everyone up, and don't want to have to worry about the transmission's life. In the diesel RV world if you want more power you pay exponentially be cause along with the power comes a bigger trans!!


With that said you will want, at a minimum, the cummins ISL9 (350/1150) and the allison 3200TRV or BIGGER. You will not find that drivetrain in a super C for anywhere near 100 primarily because the "super C" class is relativley new and the majority of the used units have the smaller cummins ISB 6.7, much more economical purchase price.

So DP is the answer, look for early 2000s country coaches, they were very well built, great reputation as a higher end unit and often had big power. You can find a 30-40K mile rig for 80-100 probably fairly easily.

I would target 2005 and newer 30K miles with L9 (350/1150) and allisson 3200 as a minimum, watch out for bigger CAT ACERT power (07 and newer) they had serious emissions issues.

My 2 cents for what that is worth, I don't even know if I answered your question but undoubtedly you will get the info you need, you got a pretty good thing going here!

DO NOT GET UNDER-POWERED YOU WILL REGRET IT


Honest question from somebody who's never owned a DP motorhome, but have owned larger boats diesel ocean boats. With boats it's common to read where the commercial fisherman, or 6 pack sportsfisher is easily getting 10-20 K hours on a pair of "X" brand engines. Then you've got Mr Harbor cruiser skipper who's doing a major rebuild at less than 2K hours. The rational I've always read is, it's not so much the hours or miles on a diesel, it's how it was used during those hours & miles.
In a previous post on this thread a member mentioned that DP's don't like to be just parked, or used making 30 mile round trips to the beach pn weekends, (As an example), they prefer to be driven like buses or big rigs.

So in general is purchasing a 15 year old DP, driven on the average of 2K miles a year, an engine with a good continued life expectancy or a major rebuild just waiting for a new unsuspecting owner ?
 

rivrrts429

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So this thing is a little pricey but it checks all the boxes?
not sure about the windows / door with the blinds I’m the bathroom?



I don’t think that bunkhouse is factory. My buddy has the exact same unit and it has a leather couch where the bunks in the pictures are.

Lots of RV’s on the market that were used on a work sabbatical or just plain lived in. If we’ll taken care of probably fine but I’d look it over extra good.

EDIT: Monaco’s are very well made quality coaches.
 

RCDave

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Honest question from somebody who's never owned a DP motorhome, but have owned larger boats diesel ocean boats. With boats it's common to read where the commercial fisherman, or 6 pack sportsfisher is easily getting 10-20 K hours on a pair of "X" brand engines. Then you've got Mr Harbor cruiser skipper who's doing a major rebuild at less than 2K hours. The rational I've always read is, it's not so much the hours or miles on a diesel, it's how it was used during those hours & miles.
In a previous post on this thread a member mentioned that DP's don't like to be just parked, or used making 30 mile round trips to the beach pn weekends, (As an example), they prefer to be driven like buses or big rigs.

So in general is purchasing a 15 year old DP, driven on the average of 2K miles a year, an engine with a good continued life expectancy or a major rebuild just waiting for a new unsuspecting owner ?

I dont think this is an issue for a diesel, especially stored in a dry desert climate.

The lack of annual use is an issue for diesel or gas powered coaches as seals can dry out.
 

RCDave

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I don’t think that bunkhouse is factory. My buddy has the exact same unit and it has a leather couch where the bunks in the pictures are.

Lots of RV’s on the market that were used on a work sabbatical or just plain lived in. If we’ll taken care of probably fine but I’d look it over extra good.

Yup.

I'd be searching for a coach stored indoors, very well maintained, and not lived in for extended periods. Check the date code on tires too. Anything approaching 6 years should be replaced.
 

JLG614

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So this thing is a little pricey but it checks all the boxes?
not sure about the windows / door with the blinds I’m the bathroom?

someone correct me if i'm wrong but another thing to think about is the fridge. this coach has a house hold fridge and i believe they only work on electric where as a RV fridge will work on electric or propane. I never take my fridge off propane unless i'm in a park with hook ups. I hate draining my batteries or constantly having to run the generator
 

ONE-A-DAY

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What power do you havein the Moho?Looks like a real nice set up.

ISB 6.7 370hp / 800 trq - be nice if it has a big block but I was impressed with how it did going to Powell with the boat and I filled it before I left because I knew getting into a gas station in Page was going to be a pita with my length, boat holds 130 gallons. Averaged 8.5 mpg towing.
 

rivrrts429

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Yup.

I'd be searching for a coach stored indoors, very well maintained, and not lived in for extended periods. Check the date code on tires too. Anything approaching 6 years should be replaced.


Whenever I bought a used RV the wife would walk inside to inspect the shiny shit and I went straight to the tire date codes.

Old tires cost a small fortune to replace when you’re talking about Michelin commercial rig tire prices.

People don’t realize the maintenance costs of these things is as bad, maybe worse, than the initial purchase.

The only DP I owned I only kept for six months before I realized I couldn’t get it to pencil out. That and the limited camping spots, specifically national parks, and I flipped it.
 

RCDave

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Whenever I bought a used RV the wife would walk inside to inspect the shiny shit and I went straight to the tire date codes.

Old tires cost a small fortune to replace when you’re talking about Michelin commercial rig tire prices.

People don’t realize the maintenance costs of these things is as bad, maybe worse, than the initial purchase.

The only DP I owned I only kept for six months before I realized I couldn’t get it to pencil out. That and the limited camping spots, specifically national parks, and I flipped it.
Yup on the tires! Its a fact for a dp or gasser. However the gasser tires are less money but still expensive.

My coach is 36' and I have not had any issues in national parks yet.

RD, where do you plan on using the rv most of the time?
 

rivrrts429

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Yup on the tires! Its a fact for a dp or gasser. However the gasser tires are less money but still expensive.

My coach is 36' and I have not had any issues in national parks yet.

RD, where do you plan on using the rv most of the time?


36’ is a great size to camp just about anywhere.

Oddly enough my 41’ fifth wheel was easier to get into tight places due to the axle and king pin ratio.
 

wallnutz

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So this thing is a little pricey but it checks all the boxes?
not sure about the windows / door with the blinds I’m the bathroom?

The 330 HP would be a deal breaker for me if I was going to tow anything. Personally I wouldn't do anything under 380 HP.
 
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