WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

Tales Of A Mercenary Mechanic

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Monkey Farm Implement Repair...
An early 80's Case "Construction King" and an Allis with an identity crisis...doesn't know she's an old row crop trying to be a Case. Got them both fired up and running today. One has a cute little Cat diesel, the other looks more akin to my 56 Massey. Clean some points, prime a pump, check for leaks, etc.
2020-05-11 21.35.01.jpg
2020-05-11 21.33.51.jpg

You know, just your average day in the sticks...I think tomorrow is RV repair. Some bad things happen if you don't winterize out here..
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
As noted, today was frozen pipe repair. The RV shop wanted a horrendous amount to fix a broken line beneath the toilet. Supposedly to repair it would require skinning the bathroom on this little Class C Tioga. After eyeballing the location, I figured a game plan.
2020-05-12 14.27.09.jpg

I removed the bedroom heater vent, and got the duct moved out of the way. I used a hacksaw blade, and cut out the broken section. It was a small 2" piece from a T to an elbow, up to the toilet. I left it attached at the toilet, and cut either side of the T, then disconected it, and removed it as an assembly. I made a "new" assembly on the bench, with very small extensions off the sides of the T, to female couplers. That was all glued and set, and the shoved back in and reconnected to the toilet...using it like a 3rd hand really. Using one hand to make sure I didn't spill the gorilla snot, I brushed one side and assembled, and then the other. Ugly, snot was overused, but water checked good. Serviced generator and cleaned AC intake...checked all fluids. She's ready to go camping.
2020-05-12 14.27.49.jpg
 

Rajobigguy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2015
Messages
4,595
Reaction score
10,006
As noted, today was frozen pipe repair. The RV shop wanted a horrendous amount to fix a broken line beneath the toilet. Supposedly to repair it would require skinning the bathroom on this little Class C Tioga. After eyeballing the location, I figured a game plan.
View attachment 875945
I removed the bedroom heater vent, and got the duct moved out of the way. I used a hacksaw blade, and cut out the broken section. It was a small 2" piece from a T to an elbow, up to the toilet. I left it attached at the toilet, and cut either side of the T, then disconected it, and removed it as an assembly. I made a "new" assembly on the bench, with very small extensions off the sides of the T, to female couplers. That was all glued and set, and the shoved back in and reconnected to the toilet...using it like a 3rd hand really. Using one hand to make sure I didn't spill the gorilla snot, I brushed one side and assembled, and then the other. Ugly, snot was overused, but water checked good. Serviced generator and cleaned AC intake...checked all fluids. She's ready to go camping. View attachment 875946
Why did you use weather strip adhesive instead of PVC glue Or am I wrong and that is just some weird looking PVC glue?
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Why did you use weather strip adhesive instead of PVC glue Or am I wrong and that is just some weird looking PVC glue?
Cpvc glue, it's yella.
Yep, CPVC glue is yellow, and seems "hotter" than Christie's. Stuff sets up quick, and smells like weatherstrip adhesive too. Something about the CPVC is different, and the normal stuff doesn't bond to it at all. Found that out the hard way on my mobile at the river.
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Well, been dinkin' around with boring stuff...diesel pusher bs with awnings and leveler leaks...
Started on my Duramax project. I picked up an 04 GMC 3500 4x4 crew cheap. Guy had blown the headgaskets, and let it sit. Locked solid, and I'm pretty good at unsticking things, dealing with old stuff. I picked up a core long block pretty cheap, but it wouldn't rotate past tdc on a cylinder. Well, it had dropped a valve, and ate the head and a piston.
2020-05-26 23.00.52.jpg

Surprisingly, cylinder was pretty good. Well, pulled it down to the block. Bearings looked good, crank is nice...all in all, not bad. Scrounged up a head, connecting rod and piston last week. Just ordered some parts today. I honed it this weekend, and cleaned everything up...bagged and waiting. (Costco sells really cheap leaf bags, fit a 454 on a stand, and keep stuff clean. Cheaper than the builder bags, but fairly lightweight) Hopefully next week I'll start hanging it back together.
2020-05-26 22.55.57.jpg

I know it would be easier to buy a different truck. Prices are outrageous though. This same truck out here is a 10-15k truck...16 years old! Not happening. I have tools, and a little bit of knowledge...that there is a dangerous mix.
 

Warlock1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Messages
3,005
Reaction score
2,375
Those engines are notorious for being hard to replace injectors due to their design. I would think at this point it might be money and time saved to send the injectors out for service and one less thing to think about after it's all back together.
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Those engines are notorious for being hard to replace injectors due to their design. I would think at this point it might be money and time saved to send the injectors out for service and one less thing to think about after it's all back together.
They had a bad injector design, that's fact. As for them being hard to change, I think that is more due to Chevy mechanics complaining. By the time the Duramax came out, the Powerstroke had been out 5 years...and pulling their injectors sucked as well. Those were burried under the valve covers and electronics too. Not really hard, just time consuming.

As for a new set of injectors, probably won't happen right now. A set of factory injectors is now up to 3500+. I've heard horror stories about the cheaper ones on eBay, and done a few sets for guys. One set only last a month. If I do it, they'll have to be a factory set or an extremely trustworthy company. I have a set of cores, so that should help.
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Well, been busy. Boring stuff though, gas motor injectors, steering boxes...normal stuff.

Started class the other day with my kids...flux core wire feed. I figure we'll start with the basics of welding, and move on from there. I learned with a stick welder, so they have it easy. With flx core, it keeps the cost of consumables lower, and thus my blood pressure.
2020-06-11 17.01.17.jpg
2020-06-12 19.24.14.jpg


Monkeys ages are 12, 13 and 16. All of them better than I was to start...
Monkey Metal Shop 101 will eventually lead to showing them what and how on different tools, like the brake, shear and rollers. If they understand how stuff is done, I figure they'll have respect for what others do for their lines of work.
I know people that complain about costs, but have no idea what is involved in making things. It's always bothered me. I came from a blue collar home, and nothing is free or easy...home ec from a different point of view.
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Kind of a fun project for my neighbor. An old Manx buggy his father in law built in the 70's. In the 90's, an 1835 was built for it...and about 2005 she started smoking and flooding carbs. The grandson of the builder pulled the motor when he was 13...and it sat since.

Origanal builder, "Grandpa" is now 83. The inlaw wants to take him for a few putts, and wake up the buggy. New rings in the 1835, and go through the carbs and distributor, adjust valves and such. Starts and runs good, but a bit much fuel pressure. I have another pump coming, should cure it.
2020-06-16 15.58.41.jpg
2020-06-16 15.57.13.jpg

2020-06-16 15.58.03.jpg

I also made a balance tube for it, between the carbs. They'd never had one, and the stock steel linkage makes it a helpful piece to have.
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Busy for a dork with no real job! My buddy has a good customer. The customer has a son with clutch issue. I got to "help" the kid do the clutch job. Nice kid, smart...probably going to be an engineer. Longest clutch job I think I've had, but works well.
2020-06-17 18.48.18.jpg
2020-06-17 18.47.30.jpg
2020-06-17 18.46.56.jpg

Kid has a really nice car! Much nicer than the stuff I had. This is a 14 year old car...oddly enough. I guess my stuff was pretty pimp at the time, it was that old then. Time flies, the cars look newer, and I feel older after working on them!
 

Riverfamlee

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2019
Messages
2,044
Reaction score
4,886
Ok where's the latest projects? We know you're not on summer vacation :)
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Pics have been slim for cool stuff. Been playing with all kinds of "normal" crap.

I was keeping the Monkey Mover under wraps...didn't want people thinking I was using the venerable RD name to gain fame and fortune 😂

Usually with any one of any web/social media presence, I won't post pics of their stuff. Kind of my way of keeping their "private" stuff, well, private I guess. That said, RD told the net, so I'll get some monkey pics going soon.
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Ok, here's the lowdown on the Mover. Standard "old car" deal. Approach it blind, no matter what is said by the owner or customer. Not that they are trying to misslead you, quite the contrary, but sometimes you may fall into a false sense of security if you only look at the "problems". If you go in blind, you look at everything.

First things first, get it up and pull the wheels...take a general look. Cute little thing, kind of like an Izusu NPR slept with a golf cart. The left rear wheel was dragging bad, as in almost locked. Faught like hell to pull the rear drums off. Not a common lug setup, so not a normal puller type deal. That, and the studs are 8mm, and threaded into ears cast into the drum itself. No sledgehammer allowed.
2020-08-13 00.42.17.jpg


Once the rears were removed, I moved on to my exploratory surgery. I pulled the seats, checked fluids and such. One of the two plug wires had been munched on, but oil was clean, and there was remnants of coolant in the radiator. Good stuff.

So, I have a general plan of attack on older cars. I usually start front to back on the chassis, and then bottom to top. Simplistic, but works. The general goal with this thing is clean it up, and make it mechanically good to go.

Following my normal deal, I pulled the front drums, and checked out the innards. Shoes are good, and wheel cylinders were as well. In an odd way, the front brakes are like tiny Izusu truck brakes, two single acting cylinders on each side. Just weird. Bearings were checked and repacked. Then the fun, lots of picking 40 year old grease and dirt, and then wire brushing. Cleaned, wiped down and painted. The goal really wasn't to make it pretty, that was just a side effect. The real goal is to put my hands on as many items as possible. Taking a look at the pieces being cleaned, figuring their purpose and potential failure. If this were a full bore restoration, body would be removed, and the chassis stripped of all pieces. At that point, sandblasting, painting and replacement of hardware come into play. With that, also comes a heavy price tag. The exponential increase is the same, be it this 70's Diahatsu HiJet, or a 64 Impala, the labor will kill your bank account. Choose wisely when making the decision to fully restore anything. Either you must really love it, or it must be something someone else will really love...it's a bunch to put out on a whim.
2020-08-13 00.39.56.jpg

2020-08-13 00.38.36.jpg
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
As you may have guessed, this isn't a fulltime deal. It works pretty well this way, because if weird unforseen stuff pops up, I can get parts coming, or reasses the situation. The clock's only running when I'm turning iron, keeps everyone happy. That, and I can mess around on RDP, or help my kids with "school".

Well, today I wanted to break down a couple of the wheels. Theory is to swap rears to fronts, and button up the front end. The wheels themselves are two piece, bolted together. I knew they had tubes, but was shocked to find two different sizes in two wheels, neither the correct size. I'll have 4 new ones Monday. They both showed signs of being wrinkled/compressed. This is bad for two reasons. First, the tube will rub on itself. Not in a happy way either. The rubber can fail due to friction. The other bad thing, if the tube isn't fully expanded, it will not be a balanced unit, as it will gather in areas, creating heavier areas. Probably not a big deal, as the tires are small. The problem is, small tires spin faster at a given speed than a larger tire...like a little kid running alongside their parents.
2020-08-13 23.10.04.jpg

2020-08-13 23.09.23.jpg

Top right was for an 8" rim, and the bottom tube was for a 22" tire...well, it's a 10" rim with tire equivalent to a 19.5" or so. The top one shows the inside radius has wrinkles, and the other has three areas where the tube had been compressed, and not able to reach it's full circumference.
 

RiverDave

In it to win it
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
123,232
Reaction score
150,642
If golf cart wheels will fit on the monkey mover I’ll order a set of 12’s on low pros tomorrow and have them shipped.. or replacement 10’s. Whichever you say.

I always hated the wheels in that thing

as you get into it, I’d be curious on a ball park on a full restoration. I can get the canvas etc.. but I’d like the body to be painted / dash and everything to be back to original and perfect.
 
Last edited:

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
If golf cart wheels will fit on the monkey mover I’ll order a set of 12’s on low pros tomorrow and have them shipped.. or replacement 10’s. Whichever you say.

I always hated the wheels in that thing

as you get into it, I’d be curious on a ball park on a full restoration. I can get the canvas etc.. but I’d like the body to be painted / dash and everything to be back to original and perfect.
I don't think golf cart wheels will fit, the 4onHuge lug pattern throws it off quite a bit. Probably next week, I'll just paint one wheel gloss black, and shine up some bolts. I can hang one together looking probably nicer than "factory", and send you a pic. I'm not much a fan of the hubcaps either. If you want, look at the pics you have and see if you want to go with larger tires on the 10" rims. If you go for new tires, I can ditch the tubes, and put it back together like the factory had it.
 

RiverDave

In it to win it
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
123,232
Reaction score
150,642
I don't think golf cart wheels will fit, the 4onHuge lug pattern throws it off quite a bit. Probably next week, I'll just paint one wheel gloss black, and shine up some bolts. I can hang one together looking probably nicer than "factory", and send you a pic. I'm not much a fan of the hubcaps either. If you want, look at the pics you have and see if you want to go with larger tires on the 10" rims. If you go for new tires, I can ditch the tubes, and put it back together like the factory had it.

Im sure someone makes a wheel for that bolt pattern I just gotta find out what it is so I can order some..

I can do that when I get it back if ya want or before. Doesn’t matter. :)
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Im sure someone makes a wheel for that bolt pattern I just gotta find out what it is so I can order some..

I can do that when I get it back if ya want or before. Doesn’t matter. :)

Ok RD, here's your homework! You said you'd be in the garage with the AC blasting this weekend.
2020-08-14 08.11.51.jpg

2020-08-14 08.10.57.jpg

The bolt pattern appears to be a 4x215mm, and the hub center is 195mm. All the aftermarket wheels I found were 4x110mm. It looks like 1987 and newer were a more "modern" pattern. This Hijet being a late 70's is not the same. For the time being, going to hold off on wheels and tubes on my end, and see if your interweb snooping finds some options. I'm headed to the river this afternoon, watch the shit-show from a beach.
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
I’ll have Tyler machine some wheels for it.. Next problem? :).
Another option would be machining some spacer/adapters. Something to be hub centric on the drum, then adapt out to a more "normal" 4 lug pattern. Then you could swap out spare rims for low-pro look or dirt type tires.

I'll get you a rough "guestimation" as far as body off restoration...time wise and general materials and such. It looks as some of the suspension bushings and such are NLA. That can be tricky, measuring and cross referencing things, or outright reconstruction.
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Well, this is the kind of crap that helps pay bills, but hinders working on more entertaining stuff.
2020-08-19 23.30.29.jpg

These are rear brake rotors off a 2018 Freightliner "Business Class". This particular guy has 3 or 4 of these trucks, and his employees drive them like Honda Civics. Big emergency, gotta get it done, truck makes money, blah, blah, blah. Well, issue, not one pair available in the state today. FedEx will be dropping off the new ones about 11am. The are coming from a dealer, in New Mexico. So, that's for tomorrow.

So, I made an executive decision concerning the Monkey Mover. Cleaned up the wheels, and got them round again. I'll put tubes in the tires, and get them back together. The logic being this: Tubes and painted rims will always be functional, even if just spares. The tubes, paint and time involved arw relatively inexpensive, and gets the project mobile again.

The wheels themselves are two pieces, and bolted together. Over time, and possibly some abuse, the mating surfaces had become bent or warpt. I roughed out the surfaces with a mallet first. Then I used the heel of an anvil to flatten the mating surface.
2020-08-19 23.29.11.jpg

The "drop center", or area between the retaining lips or beads, had some nasty tool marks. I would assume from previous attempts at dismounting tires. They were a bit of a chore, and I have old school tire irons. Back to the tool marks. Most were capable of causing damage to a tube. Much like having a rock in your shoe. Not comfortable, but will wear a hole in your sock or your foot in short order. So, those high spots were filed down and smoothed out.
2020-08-19 23.29.47.jpg

Get some tubes in and tires on tomorrow. Then I'll post a pic of the new "murder minis"
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Yesterday truly sucked... so came home, showered...my "give-a-fuck" went to fuck. So, no tubes made it into tires until today. Here's the first one. Going for a "murdered out" or "mobbin' " kind of look. My opinion, the black looks better than the chrome golf cart caps.
2020-08-21 18.54.05.jpg

Now, for those of you who may at some point install tubes into tires: On a normal rim, install the inside edge of the tire first. Then, work tube in, and install outside edge of tire, inflate and done. Trick is, keeping the tube from pinching, and not wadding up. These are two piece, so installing is not bad, and keeping it clear from a pinch point is pretty easy to accomplish. The wadding, you can't see. To help everything move well, I powder the tube heavily with bably powder. This acts as a dry lube when inflating. Old school tech, but it works well.
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Did some tinkering the other day. The rear wheel cylinders needed to come of, regardless of condition just to grease them...yes, they are a floating variety. These boogers are held to the backing plates with a spring clip and a shim.

They are also kind of goofy in their function. They are single sided, with the adjuster on the oposite side. This is why they need to float. The cylinder is acting the same as your normal wheel cylinders, spreading the shoes. If the cylinder is not lubed well, the cylinder itself will only extend it's piston, and actuate one shoe.
2020-08-26 23.35.49.jpg

One was leaking...and the outer dust cover was shredded and retainer was rusted, corroding the groove in the cylinder. I immediately started looking for kits, or replacement units. No go on kits for application...and after looking at the cylinder bore, kind of a lost cause. The bore is pitted, but that wouldn't normally be a deal killer. The issue at hand was not only the cylinder being out of round by wear, it was also tapered out where the piston seal traveled.
2020-08-26 23.35.09.jpg

Well crap. I continued my hunt for cylinders. Turns out, this was one of the last models using this configuration. I contacted multiple mini suppliers, hoping they had some on a dusty shelf. Nope. They all said the same thing. They are hard to find, and usually have to come from overseas. The cost to have the bad one machined and sleeved is not real prohibitive, but in this case I thought it better to have new rear cylinders shipped from Oz...the other choices were Indonesia or Latvia...I don't speak those languages, and I want to be able to cuss someone out if the parts are wrong. Good things: brake lines, linings and such are good, and drums mic out ok.
2020-08-26 23.34.39.jpg

A little size comparison...tiny little pain in the ass.
 

RiverDave

In it to win it
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
123,232
Reaction score
150,642
Did some tinkering the other day. The rear wheel cylinders needed to come of, regardless of condition just to grease them...yes, they are a floating variety. These boogers are held to the backing plates with a spring clip and a shim.

They are also kind of goofy in their function. They are single sided, with the adjuster on the oposite side. This is why they need to float. The cylinder is acting the same as your normal wheel cylinders, spreading the shoes. If the cylinder is not lubed well, the cylinder itself will only extend it's piston, and actuate one shoe.
View attachment 915842
One was leaking...and the outer dust cover was shredded and retainer was rusted, corroding the groove in the cylinder. I immediately started looking for kits, or replacement units. No go on kits for application...and after looking at the cylinder bore, kind of a lost cause. The bore is pitted, but that wouldn't normally be a deal killer. The issue at hand was not only the cylinder being out of round by wear, it was also tapered out where the piston seal traveled. View attachment 915843
Well crap. I continued my hunt for cylinders. Turns out, this was one of the last models using this configuration. I contacted multiple mini suppliers, hoping they had some on a dusty shelf. Nope. They all said the same thing. They are hard to find, and usually have to come from overseas. The cost to have the bad one machined and sleeved is not real prohibitive, but in this case I thought it better to have new rear cylinders shipped from Oz...the other choices were Indonesia or Latvia...I don't speak those languages, and I want to be able to cuss someone out if the parts are wrong. Good things: brake lines, linings and such are good, and drums mic out ok. View attachment 915844
A little size comparison...tiny little pain in the ass.

Save those parts, if you’d like I can have them microwelded to cure the pitting and then can re machine them?

of course that depends on the costs of replacement parts.. if the parts are a couple hundred bucks probably better to just order new ones
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Save those parts, if you’d like I can have them microwelded to cure the pitting and then can re machine them?

of course that depends on the costs of replacement parts.. if the parts are a couple hundred bucks probably better to just order new ones
The wheel cylinders were not really expensive, even coming from Australia. For both left and right, was only 86$...including shipping. That seemed to be a pretty decent price. The company I've used to bore and sleeve stuff would have prabably been 150 a piece.

Trust me, if they were pure unobtainium, or super pricey, I would have contacted you...either for machining, or money ;)
 

Carlson-jet

Not Giving A Fuck Is An Art
Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
7,785
Reaction score
7,947
If I was going to fuckery this up, I would bore the cylinders/caliper and sleeve the pistons if the seals are available.
Was this used as a snow plow in the midwest?
 

RiverDave

In it to win it
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
123,232
Reaction score
150,642
The wheel cylinders were not really expensive, even coming from Australia. For both left and right, was only 86$...including shipping. That seemed to be a pretty decent price. The company I've used to bore and sleeve stuff would have prabably been 150 a piece.

Trust me, if they were pure unobtainium, or super pricey, I would have contacted you...either for machining, or money ;)

Sounds good.

RD
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
If I was going to fuckery this up, I would bore the cylinders/caliper and sleeve the pistons if the seals are available.
Was this used as a snow plow in the midwest?
Funny thing is, the rears are pitted and the backing plates kind of rusty...not midwest salt road, more like a truck used to launch.
If it got super difficult to find parts, I could have had them bored and sleeved. I am not capable of doing it myself, "I gotta guy". The factory seals aren't showing as being available, but I've had good luck in the past finding items based on measurements.
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Ok, been lazy and selfish this week. Actually been working on a motor for myself. Have some various stuff going on on the Monkey, but nothing pic worthy just yet.
Anyways, some of you may remember I scattered my truck last summer. Well, aside from "Fred", my daughter's Chevy, I still have no truck. Well, a while back I had bought a Sierra 3500, 2004 with a junk LB7 Duramax. Well, I finally scavenged enough parts to start putting it together...so, that has been my evening project. I know most would just buy another truck, but damn, a decent 1 ton is a heap of cash...
2020-09-03 23.18.32.jpg

Hung the crank, new rings on the pistons, and bearings everywhere. Block had been cleaned, and oil galleys and squirters removed and cleaned.
2020-09-03 23.17.58.jpg

Put the heads on, cussed the guy who invented TTY bolts. Pain in the butt!
2020-09-03 23.16.58.jpg

This is how it sits tonight. New water pump tomorrow, then I'll sit the crank pulley down. It's looking like a motor now. Maybe soon I'll have a real truck again!
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Today was cars and coffee in the morning...my weekly social outing. From there, family day. We did the flea market, lunch and then a couple movies at home. Kids were on the verge of anarchy. 8-12hrs a day on computers. I don't blame them. Tomorrow we may go bowling...all the hills are crowded with flatlanders for the holiday, so a hike is out.

Tonight I went into the shop, set the valve lash, put the injector harnesses on and new seals and gaskets for the valve covers. Did the water pump, harmonic balancer and intermediate oil pan too. Looks good...hope it runs! Never done an Izusu Chevy before...
2020-09-06 00.30.52.jpg
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Yay! Wife did the computer deal, and wheel cylinders for the Monkey Mover cleared customs on Thursday. I should be reassembling the rear end next week, and get it back on wheels again.

Duramax thing is a tedious ass-kicker. Tonight...after bowling and watching more TV with kids...I put the front accessory stuff back on, thermostat thingamabob, intake manifolds, fuel logs and injector lines. Really more like a jigsaw puzzle, as it was scattered 6 months ago. Between that, and having two donor motors, there's a metric shit ton of metric pieces...not all going to be used.
2020-09-06 23.27.28.jpg
 

Nordie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2009
Messages
7,461
Reaction score
10,904
Yay! Wife did the computer deal, and wheel cylinders for the Monkey Mover cleared customs on Thursday. I should be reassembling the rear end next week, and get it back on wheels again.

Duramax thing is a tedious ass-kicker. Tonight...after bowling and watching more TV with kids...I put the front accessory stuff back on, thermostat thingamabob, intake manifolds, fuel logs and injector lines. Really more like a jigsaw puzzle, as it was scattered 6 months ago. Between that, and having two donor motors, there's a metric shit ton of metric pieces...not all going to be used. View attachment 920010

The return lines under the first half of the valve cover make sure they are torqued to 6 inch pounds...ask me how I know 🤦‍♂️
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
The return lines under the first half of the valve cover make sure they are torqued to 6 inch pounds...ask me how I know 🤦‍♂️
Hollow banjo bolts into injector bodies, recipe for cuss words. That's part of what's been taking so long. I have 4 pages of torque specs, 2 clicker wrenches (inlb & ftlb) and one with lights, beepers and a screen! Most the stuff now is normal "tight"...except for the flex plate bolts. They have to be TIGHT...should be fun.
 

Nordie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2009
Messages
7,461
Reaction score
10,904
Hollow banjo bolts into injector bodies, recipe for cuss words. That's part of what's been taking so long. I have 4 pages of torque specs, 2 clicker wrenches (inlb & ftlb) and one with lights, beepers and a screen! Most the stuff now is normal "tight"...except for the flex plate bolts. They have to be TIGHT...should be fun.

I redid the injectors when I had my 02, and I didn't have an inch pound torque wrench, I figured I would get it by feel, well 6inlb is not a lot at all. It doesn't take long to fill the crankcase full of diesel at all from the return lines. Also getting those valve covers off in a lifted hell even not lifted truck is a pain in the ass. I know you know what you're doing, but I just wanted to mention it.
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
I redid the injectors when I had my 02, and I didn't have an inch pound torque wrench, I figured I would get it by feel, well 6inlb is not a lot at all. It doesn't take long to fill the crankcase full of diesel at all from the return lines. Also getting those valve covers off in a lifted hell even not lifted truck is a pain in the ass. I know you know what you're doing, but I just wanted to mention it.
Oh no, I have no clue what I'm doing on this one. I've done injectors, so I knew to be afraid of some things. I have never been this "deep" into a 6.6 before. I've printed out and read all kinds of stuff. It's really scary as hell. I've assembled lots of motors, but this is a weird one. Izusu hasn't been a power plant I've been around, and this thing is way more Japanese than Detroit.
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Woohoo, a pretty decent delivery time from Oz. My wife got an email that the package was delivered. Well, headed 5 miles down the road to the mail box. Low and behold, wheel cylinders, complete with kangaroo logo on box
2020-09-08 23.38.48.jpg

The little horseshoe clips retain the cylinder within the slot on the backing plate. They suck balls. Very limited space to install the the first one, it supplies tension. The other comes the opposite direction, and the detents lock them together. There must be grease between both the wheel cylinder, those plates, and the backing plate. Because the cylinder is single acting, it must move to push both shoes.
Cleaned up the backing plate, and hardware. Looked like this.
2020-09-08 23.39.22.jpg

Arosol overhaul...or "stovepiped" things. Greased the contact areas for wear and pivot points. The wheel cylinder has a pivot area, for the park break lever. The pivot area was not machined, just as cast. I had to relieve the area for everything to fit flush. That said, kind of slowed me down. Only got one side together tonight, but some progress.
2020-09-09 00.40.00.jpg
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Well now, here's a pic of the "as cast" piece I was refering to. The machine work for the bore and adjuster looks good, but that's where the Ausie replacements ended their fit and finish.
2020-09-09 23.51.41.jpg

The part lines on the castings are pretty bad. Not usually an issue on something like this, but these are a bit odd. As I said yesterday, these slide. They basically slide on the corners, like contact pads. The other fitment issue is in the pivot retainer area. The casting was undersized. The rocker pivot would not even fit, let alone recess in the proper location. So, whittling needed doing, and some polish work as well.
2020-09-09 23.51.06.jpg

Kind of hard to see, but the part lines and pad areas have been smoothed out with a flat file. The pivot area has been clearance and the radii changed to fit the pin, and situate it where it should be. This part was done with a small carbide tapered die grinder bit. On things of this nature, I put the bit in a standard cordless drill. The carbide bits move through the aluminum pretty easily. By using the drill, the speed is very slow. This keeps me from over digging, or catching a lip and screwing up something else.

On tomorrow's episode: In Oz, a pair means two...
Apparently to cut costs, they only make right hand cylinders...They are identical with the exception one has a bleeder, the other is a junction. So, mild mods to be made.
Kangaroo's don't do much machine work I guess.
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
This being mercenary can get a bit interesting. Last week, did some work on a toyhauler...delamination repair, and a starter in a big International. Normal stuff. The Monkey Mover is getting fluids changed, but pics of that are kind of like watching someone take a drug test. In theory, fire it up this weekend and check out mechanical aspects...so far, so good.

Now, God has a sense of humor. I had farted around on my own motor for my truck. Getting closer....
And then the brakes are put on, hard.
A guy down the road wants me to do rear brakes, oils changed and coolant flush. Couldn't turn this one down. 1937 Ford Slantback Tudor...stock, aside from the tires. Mechanical brakes and all. It also has a few gremlins to sort, it died on the way over, and I had to do a recovery. All kinds of fun!

2020-09-14 23.41.29.jpg
2020-09-14 23.40.58.jpg
2020-09-14 23.40.27.jpg

Oh, one little tidbit....the car is low miles. LOW, by any stretch. The individual that owned it until recently had a pretty impressive collection of low mileage early V8's.
25k and change on the clock :oops:
2020-09-14 23.39.58.jpg
 

RiverDave

In it to win it
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
123,232
Reaction score
150,642
What does something like that cost?

Don't worry about the money mover... it will be done when it's done.. I didn't; expect it back for "awhile".



RD
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
What does something like that cost?

Don't worry about the money mover... it will be done when it's done.. I didn't; expect it back for "awhile".



RD
As for cost on this 37...not really as bad as you think. It is such a limited market as far as who wants "stone stock". The current owner paid 30 something for it. A car like this is more a ghost than a car. It is like a time warp. It's not so much the cost, it's the finding one for sale. Guys who have cars like these, don't usually "have" to sell them. These are the types of guys that want to make sure the car stays like this, stock. In a few cases, I've seen guys turn down big money. As in double asking price.

They see the rarity of the piece. To them, it's like some fine wine to be appreciated.

I'm a caraholic I guess, I like them all!


And the Monkey Mover will move along too. Never boring around here...I want to feel the massive power of the 27hp 2cyl!

Shit, two projects going. 27hp and 85hp...no speeding tickets on them!
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
Well, figured if the goal is to run the motor this weekend, I should probably see about getting the brakes squared away again. When we last left that project, I was cussing about the two rights make a pair. It's a cost cutting thing, and I wouldn't think the parts are in high demand.

Soooo, we cheated a bit. Originally the brake line feeds the rear from the frame, via a hose to the passenger side of the axle. From there, it becomes a hardline direct to the left wheel cylinder. It then bounces out of a port to another hardline that runs parallel the first, past the hose to the right side wheel cylinder. Only the right side had a bleeder.

Well, this is not a concourse restoration. Needs to run, drive and be as safe as a clown car can be. I essentially ditched the first line, and modified the system. Fancy way of saying I put a "T" in the crossover, and fed it from the flex hose. The only drawback is now the rear end has two bleeder screws instead of one. Not a bad thing really, as most normal stuff has one per corner.
2020-09-17 00.12.15.jpg

Nothing fancy, but functional. The brass T in the upper left of pic is the mod. Obviously haven't done much else underneath as of yet.
 

Jay Dub

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
1,022
Reaction score
1,170
Well now, here's a pic of the "as cast" piece I was refering to. The machine work for the bore and adjuster looks good, but that's where the Ausie replacements ended their fit and finish. View attachment 920997
The part lines on the castings are pretty bad. Not usually an issue on something like this, but these are a bit odd. As I said yesterday, these slide. They basically slide on the corners, like contact pads. The other fitment issue is in the pivot retainer area. The casting was undersized. The rocker pivot would not even fit, let alone recess in the proper location. So, whittling needed doing, and some polish work as well. View attachment 920999
Kind of hard to see, but the part lines and pad areas have been smoothed out with a flat file. The pivot area has been clearance and the radii changed to fit the pin, and situate it where it should be. This part was done with a small carbide tapered die grinder bit. On things of this nature, I put the bit in a standard cordless drill. The carbide bits move through the aluminum pretty easily. By using the drill, the speed is very slow. This keeps me from over digging, or catching a lip and screwing up something else.

On tomorrow's episode: In Oz, a pair means two...
Apparently to cut costs, they only make right hand cylinders...They are identical with the exception one has a bleeder, the other is a junction. So, mild mods to be made.
Kangaroo's don't do much machine work I guess.
this is great. thank you for sharing
 

monkeyswrench

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Messages
26,077
Reaction score
71,738
So, the 37 Ford has repeatedly kicked me in the head. Front brakes weren't even on the list, but they got done. On it's way here it died, and had to be towed. Spark or fuel... know what's up, and waiting for parts for that end. Rear brake shoes came today.

So, Monkey Mover didn't move this weekend... so, I have it sitting up on stand. Actually, currently sitting on four ammo cans. I was getting ready to drain the crankcase, and oppted to remove the skidpan airdefltor thing. It goes beneath the motor, from frame rail to frame rail.

When removed, my better view showed me the lower hose. It has been leaking foever. All the leaked coolant was caught in the pan. Time to rumagge for some hoses.

2020-09-22 15.00.42.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Taboma

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2008
Messages
14,602
Reaction score
20,784
So, the 37 Ford has repeatedly kicked me in the head. Front brakes weren't even on the list, but they got done. On it's way here it died, and had to be towed. Spark or fuel... know what's up, and waiting for parts for that end. Rear brake shoes came today.

So, Monkey Mover didn't move this weekend... so, I have it sitting up on stand. Actually, currently sitting on four ammo cans. I was getting ready to drain the crankcase, and oppted to remove the skidpan airdefltor thing. It goes beneath the motor, from frame rail to frame rail.

When removed, my better view showed me the lower

That a big black hose had fallen off ? No fuel tank, oil leak ?? Square thingy in bottom of other thingy 😁
 
Top