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DIY HOME PAINTING TRICKS AND TIPS.....

2FORCEFULL

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Well the time has come..... I just can't take it anymore.... I've been a painter for going on 60 years, and nothing worse than going over to a friends house and either they painted there self,.. or hired a 100 bucks a room painter off craigs list.. accent color all over main body, wall color all over trim and base.... you get the picture... eye sore...

so probley about 100 years ago.... some one decided to put paint in gallon cans..... horrible.... one freak'n mess after another try'n to get the paint out of the can... and left overs... another mess... garage is full of left over paint cans that when you need some of the color, you find that the paint in the can is all skinned over and ruined... when paint sits in the can the tint seperate, and even if you do get the skin out.... the color doesn't match...

same with 5 gallon buckets.... with 5 gallon buckets you need to box the paint, that waay all the paint is uniform... and you never have to use "PAINT STICKS,... another freecking mess....



so here's how I do it...

my wife, like most wives.... doesn't like all the paint colors the same...MONO... doesent work,... so I'll start from the begining.... gallon cans..
the first thing I do is dump the paint into a gallon jug.... vinegar jug, or what I use is lucas bottles.... I use whats left in the can to cut in , and clean the can out.... then toss the can...

with the paint in the jug, no stir stick needed,... tight'n the cap and shake.... this also makes it handy for touch up, the paint in the lid is usually enough to dot paint spots...... but... when you need some in a paint tray,.. it pours right in with no mess and you don't waist so much paint... pour in what you think you need, run out? pour a little more... I like to magic marker the bottle w/ what the paint is, date & house

next,... never under stood. washing weenie rollers and brushes when you know you will be doing a secound coat in a 1/2 hour or so....painters have been taught to "DEEP 6" the skins... (rollers).... another freek'n mess waiting to happen,... when you do this the inside of the skin fills with paint... and it will drip out when you least expect it and If you take the skin out and throw it in the bucket... you have to try to fish it back out...now it drips on the drop cloth, and you step in it and track paint all over the house...
 

2FORCEFULL

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soooo. what I do is this...I use plastic grocery bags I put the roller or brush in the bag and wrap it up..... hour later or even longer... the roller and brush still have wet paint I've even let them sit over night.... when I use them that have been sitting... I start with about an ouce of water in the tray work that in to the brush or roller, then add the new paint...
 

2FORCEFULL

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when I paint a house..... which I quit doing.... I leave a gator aid bottle of each color for the customer for touch up and a few artist brushes... that way if they change out a light fixture or door knob they have the paint,..... I also pour a little paint in a spray paint cap when doing a final walk through...... the last thing I say to my customer is this...I'll see you in a couple days.... here's a roll of blue tape,... mark any thing you see and I'll fix it..... very very few times have I went back where the home owner didn't give me a ph.# of a friend or relative that wanted their house painted... and I was always far far from the cheepest....
 

2FORCEFULL

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another thing i do, because I paint furniture and cabinets, is I use a HVLP gun alot.... ever try to pour paint from a gallon can into a cup gun???? freek'n mess and you need 3 hands.... also,.. I use the cheep hvlp guns from harbor freight.... I drill out the tip to be able to spray latex ... they work great.... they sell a little stand that I clamp to a step ladder so I don't have to hold the gun, but when I put the paint into the gallon jug I thin the paint a little with water.... so easy to fill the cup gun with paint when you pour out of a jug, you can hold the filter with one hand and pour with the other...I also mark the jug "SPRAY" and what I painted with the color... , bedroom furniture, bath cabinets....... when done with the job you can put the lid on,.... and it's ready for painting the thing you wife picked up a yard sell to match...
 

TimeBandit

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another thing i do, because I paint furniture and cabinets, is I use a HVLP gun alot.... ever try to pour paint from a gallon can into a cup gun???? freek'n mess and you need 3 hands.... also,.. I use the cheep hvlp guns from harbor freight.... I drill out the tip to be able to spray latex ... they work great.... they sell a little stand that I clamp to a step ladder so I don't have to hold the gun, but when I put the paint into the gallon jug I thin the paint a little with water.... so easy to fill the cup gun with paint when you pour out of a jug, you can hold the filter with one hand and pour with the other...I also mark the jug "SPRAY" and what I painted with the color... , bedroom furniture, bath cabinets....... when done with the job you can put the lid on,.... and it's ready for painting the thing you wife picked up a yard sell to match...
How big do you drill out the tip on the HVLP gun?
 

bocco

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Good tips. I like the lucas bottle trick. But what is a lucas bottle? Is that just a gallon jug left over from a Lucas product? sounds like any gallon jug with a good cap would work.

I have also just used clear plastic wrap to save brushes and rollers over night.

What do you mean by "boxing" the paint from a 5 gallon bucket?
 

Runs2rch

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Good tips. I like the lucas bottle trick. But what is a lucas bottle? Is that just a gallon jug left over from a Lucas product? sounds like any gallon jug with a good cap would work.

I have also just used clear plastic wrap to save brushes and rollers over night.

What do you mean by "boxing" the paint from a 5 gallon bucket?
Gallon jugs that he happens to have. Lucas being one of them.
 

bocco

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So let's talk about what order you paint in.

I like to do cieling first. Don't worry about cutting, just let it overlap a little on the walls.

The I do trim. Same deal, just let it overlap a little on the walls.

Then I mask the trim and go at the walls. I hand cut to the ceiling. Hand brush around the masked trim and then go at it with a roller.

I have had good results with one of those bazooka paint roller gadgets that suck up paint from the bucket. A bit of a pain to clean but not bad. And they cheap enough that last time I painted I just threw away the one I had and bought a new one.
 

2FORCEFULL

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Good tips. I like the lucas bottle trick. But what is a lucas bottle? Is that just a gallon jug left over from a Lucas product? sounds like any gallon jug with a good cap would work.

I have also just used clear plastic wrap to save brushes and rollers over night.

What do you mean by "boxing" the paint from a 5 gallon bucket?
be carefull with with the plastic bottle you use, and make sure you wash it out.... don't use drinking water bottles,... there too thin and will crack over time... then you have a real mess to deal with...

" boxing" is just mixing the paint from one 5 to another to mix all the paint together... another pro term is "tending pot"... which means that your job is gonna be boxing paint and making sure that the airless pot doesn't run out of paint...
 

endobear

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Good tips. I like the lucas bottle trick. But what is a lucas bottle? Is that just a gallon jug left over from a Lucas product? sounds like any gallon jug with a good cap would work.

I have also just used clear plastic wrap to save brushes and rollers over night.

What do you mean by "boxing" the paint from a 5 gallon bucket?
Say you have 2 5 gallon buckets of paint.
Get another empty 5 gallon bucket and pour half of each full 5 into empty bucket and repeat multiple times to box the colors together.
 

bocco

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And then there is the subject of paint brands. Is Kelly Moore worth the rediculous prices they charge? Seems like the pro guys love it but I think they get a steep discount.

I have had good results with Behr.
 

wzuber

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some interesting and very useful tips Steve, thanks. Sometimes I too will use a bag to wrap my brush between coats on the same day etc. If overnight I just rinse them in a bucket separating the hairs/fibers to get as much paint out, then hit them with the hose with a power stream of water until clear, wrap with a paper towel or put them in their sleeve to retain their shape and their clean and ready to go the next day, quick and simple. I find it helps significantly with both brushes and rollers to wet them out before painting then cast off and/or use a clean towel etc. to pull off any residual water to my liking leaving the fibers moist. I find the fibers do not soak up as much paint initially (especially rollers) and they clean up a good bit faster/easier.
I prefer buckets with grids for rolling over trays. Trays are a pain in the ass, run out of paint quickly, spill prone, and just slow the overall process down imo....
Also, with a bucket I can leave the grids, roller etc in the bucket during brakes or even overnight sometimes and cover it with it's lid or a larger/heavier plastic bag snuggly pulled over or wrapped underneath it and it's good to go the next day too. Gotta be careful with this process in the summer heat though especially out there. That chit will cook the moisture out of anything real quick and make a crusty mess out of things very quickly.
 
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2FORCEFULL

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So let's talk about what order you paint in.

I like to do cieling first. Don't worry about cutting, just let it overlap a little on the walls.

The I do trim. Same deal, just let it overlap a little on the walls.

Then I mask the trim and go at the walls. I hand cut to the ceiling. Hand brush around the masked trim and then go at it with a roller.

I have had good results with one of those bazooka paint roller gadgets that suck up paint from the bucket. A bit of a pain to clean but not bad. And they cheap enough that last time I painted I just threw away the one I had and bought a new one.
LOL... amagine this with "PRO" painters on a custom home I was doing.... I walk in... they're painting the walls first.... then spraying the ceiling and trim... I say what the f you doing???? that won't work....painter: trust me, I do it this way all the time... I like nice straight crisp lines.... so I leave.... come back and when they sprayed the ceiling, I watched the last room,... guy was self taught with a spray gun... pulled the trigger and never let up like he was spraying bug killer on a rose bush... they cutrained plastic down the wall and papered the the jams and base.... when they got done , the ceiling paint blead down the walls... the over spray fogged the walls from the ceiling and the trim.. so they had to repint the walls....the guy free handing the top cut in line was shaking like a dog shitting razor blades so amagine what that looked like.....
 

2FORCEFULL

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And then there is the subject of paint brands. Is Kelly Moore worth the rediculous prices they charge? Seems like the pro guys love it but I think they get a steep discount.

I have had good results with Behr.
Behr is best.... and all I use..... while I was in havasu my wife hired painter to repaint the red doors at our vegas house... they used sherwins , to this day the the doors pop every time they open and the front door glues shut....
 

2FORCEFULL

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some interesting and very useful tips Steve, thanks. Sometimes I too will use a bag to wrap my brush between coats on the same day etc. If overnight I just rinse them in a bucket separating the hairs/fibers to get as much paint out, then hit them with the hose with a power stream of water until clear, wrap with a paper towel or put them in their sleeve to retain their shape and their clean and ready to go the next day, quick and simple. I find it helps significantly with both brushes and rollers to wet them out before painting then cast off and/or use a clean towel etc. to pull off any residual water to my liking leaving the fibers moist. I find the fibers do not soak up as much paint initially (especially rollers) and they clean up a good bit faster/easier.
I prefer buckets with grids for rolling over trays. Trays are a pain in the ass, run out of paint quickly, spill prone, and just slow the overall process down imo....
Also, with a bucket I can leave the gris, roller etc in the bucket during brakes or even overnight sometimes and cover it with it's lid or a larger/heavier plastic bag snuggly pulled over or wrapped underneath it and it's good to go the next day too. Gotta be careful with this process in the summer heat though especially out there. That chit will cook the moisture out of anything real quick and make a crusty mess out of things very quickly.
all depends on the job size main body i work out of a five'r...
 

wzuber

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I prefer Dunn Edwards myself, very smooth, hi quality paint that lasts many years and has excellent color retention and fade/chalk resistance.
Lots of different products to choose from out there in paint world.
 

2FORCEFULL

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here's another trick.... lets say you paint the ceiling white.... and grey the walls.... when you tape the ceiling..... the old trick was to take painters caulk and run a little bit along the tape edge so the grey can't bleed through..... kind of a waist of time, and it doesn't work on colored ceilings, cause now you have white on the ceiling....

what I do on color change lines is this.. paint into the angle good.... let it dry... then tape a line dividing the colors... then go back and with the same color brush paint over the tape line.... this will seal the edge , then paint the next color over the tape line ,.. any paint that bleeds through will be the same color as the ceiling..... same with changing colors in the middle of the room, or putting a gloss in a kitchen and satin/ egg in the dinning area
 

2FORCEFULL

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I always manual paint. When I need to paint I call Manual and he comes over and does it right.
you hope...... who decided with those guys that the side of door trim goes the same as the wall color????? ived watched manual painters,... they're used to spraying stripes on donkeys..... their spray work looks like Zebras...
 

endobear

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Being a professional painter for the last 30 years I'll add to 2FFs tips a bit..

Storage.
The trick to left over paint lasting is the amount of paint to air in the can. A half gallon of paint in a gallon can wont last long at all. Sometimes I'll buy a clean quart to pour off into to to make sure its full, labeled and leave behind.
Also be sure and store your paint were it won't freeze or were it will get to hot.
We always recommend storing inside the house. Not your garage or shed.

Bad latex paint has a particular smell. You will know it.
If you do have an old can of paint that smells normal but has a skin on top just pull the skin, stirr the crap out of it and add a little water if you have to, to get the right viscosity. Strain into clean bucket
and go.
 

wzuber

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here's another trick.... lets say you paint the ceiling white.... and grey the walls.... when you tape the ceiling..... the old trick was to take painters caulk and run a little bit along the tape edge so the grey can't bleed through..... kind of a waist of time, and it doesn't work on colored ceilings, cause now you have white on the ceiling....

what I do on color change lines is this.. paint into the angle good.... let it dry... then tape a line dividing the colors... then go back and with the same color brush paint over the tape line.... this will seal the edge , then paint the next color over the tape line ,.. any paint that bleeds through will be the same color as the ceiling..... same with changing colors in the middle of the room, or putting a gloss in a kitchen and satin/ egg in the dinning area.
but, but, but the tape mfg. commercials say "it never bleeds and perfect everytime". Now as a pro your telling us that tape bleeds? that's blashemy.. lol
 

wzuber

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Being a professional painter for the last 30 years I'll add to 2FFs tips a bit..

Storage.
The trick to left over paint lasting is the amount of paint to air in the can. A half gallon of paint in a gallon can wont last long at all. Sometimes I'll buy a clean quart to pour off into to to make sure its full, labeled and leave behind.
Also be sure and store your paint were it won't freeze or were it will get to hot.
We always recommend storing inside the house. Not your garage or shed.

Bad latex paint has a particular smell. You will know it.
If you do have an old can of paint that smells normal but has a skin on top just pull the skin, stirr the crap out of it and add a little water if you have to, to get the right viscosity. Strain into clean bucket
and go.
solid points Endo. I've seen a few pro's gently pour a little water on top of the residual paint when prepping for LTS. They claimed it works well to help extend the shelf life.
 

wzuber

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paint conditioners....do you pro's use them and if so which do you prefer?
 

2FORCEFULL

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Being a professional painter for the last 30 years I'll add to 2FFs tips a bit..

Storage.
The trick to left over paint lasting is the amount of paint to air in the can. A half gallon of paint in a gallon can wont last long at all. Sometimes I'll buy a clean quart to pour off into to to make sure its full, labeled and leave behind.
Also be sure and store your paint were it won't freeze or were it will get to hot.
We always recommend storing inside the house. Not your garage or shed.

Bad latex paint has a particular smell. You will know it.
If you do have an old can of paint that smells normal but has a skin on top just pull the skin, stirr the crap out of it and add a little water if you have to, to get the right viscosity. Strain into clean bucket
and go.
bottles are air tight where as used cans aren't... I've left paint in a bottle for over a year and never had it skin,... but heres what happens in a can before it skins.... the tints seperate... so when you pull the skin the tint comes with it,... then when you mix the paint it's shades off...


china has tried and tried to sell junk to put on cans to stop paint from getting into the sealing edge of cans... once there's paint in there.... they leak air...

using bottles you never need stir sticks... so easy to just pour a little in a spray can top and go do touch up...

vaginas is where the can idea came from, but the same thing happens.... it get dry on the outside edge, and vaginas can't even piss straight with out making a mess
 

bocco

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you hope...... who decided with those guys that the side of door trim goes the same as the wall color????? ived watched manual painters,... they're used to spraying stripes on donkeys..... their spray work looks like Zebras...
Agree on this one. I think they call it face off. I think they do it because it's fast and easy.
 

2FORCEFULL

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solid points Endo. I've seen a few pro's gently pour a little water on top of the residual paint when prepping for LTS. They claimed it works well to help extend the shelf life.
the pro term is water cap.... which is not needed with an air tight bottle cap

I knew a guy that used to put the lid on and turn the can upside down for a minute to re seal the lid... always was too spooky for me though...
 

2FORCEFULL

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Being a professional painter for the last 30 years I'll add to 2FFs tips a bit..

Storage.
The trick to left over paint lasting is the amount of paint to air in the can. A half gallon of paint in a gallon can wont last long at all. Sometimes I'll buy a clean quart to pour off into to to make sure its full, labeled and leave behind.
Also be sure and store your paint were it won't freeze or were it will get to hot.
We always recommend storing inside the house. Not your garage or shed.

Bad latex paint has a particular smell. You will know it.
If you do have an old can of paint that smells normal but has a skin on top just pull the skin, stirr the crap out of it and add a little water if you have to, to get the right viscosity. Strain into clean bucket
and go.
I don't know how it is at your house, but after a year I start hearing,... "I want you to paint the house this color.....WTF
 

endobear

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here's another trick.... lets say you paint the ceiling white.... and grey the walls.... when you tape the ceiling..... the old trick was to take painters caulk and run a little bit along the tape edge so the grey can't bleed through..... kind of a waist of time, and it doesn't work on colored ceilings, cause now you have white on the ceiling....

what I do on color change lines is this.. paint into the angle good.... let it dry... then tape a line dividing the colors... then go back and with the same color brush paint over the tape line.... this will seal the edge , then paint the next color over the tape line ,.. any paint that bleeds through will be the same color as the ceiling..... same with changing colors in the middle of the room, or putting a gloss in a kitchen and satin/ egg in the dinning area
A good painter should be able to cut a ceiling line faster and better than taping.
I have had guys do the tape and caulk or tape and paint to seal the tape on ceiling lines. It's just slow.

Although I have had a few guys that could make perfectly straight lines on.door and window casings. We still tape and caulk base and case.

The key to tape caulking is to get the caulking wiped away enough that you can see the edge of your tape.
 

wzuber

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the pro term is water cap.... which is not needed with an air tight bottle cap.

I knew a guy that used to put the lid on and turn the can upside down for a minute to re seal the lid... always was too spooky for me though...
I was speaking in reference to in the can storage.
 

stephenkatsea

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Growing up decking and operating So Cal fishing boats, we had to do the annual painting. These boats were clear fiberglass over plywood. 65 - 100 ft in length, so painting them was a big job. Some of the hulls were Philippine mahogany lapstrake. Proper sanding was vital, a thorough wipe down and use of a high quality marine paint. For us, spray painting was out of the question and often prohibited at various docks. So, we'd roll and brush. We'd first add Penetrol to the tray of paint, to promote flowing of the paint. We'd apply the paint with a good quality roller that didn't shed, followed immediately by a brush, lightly stroking vertically and popping the bubbles in the just rolled on paint. Keeping a wet edge was vital, so you had to move along quickly. Best done with 2 guys. Or even 3 with the third mixing paint and providing supplies. At one time we were using high quality brushes. But, we found the foam brushes worked just as well. Vertical stroke was vital for maximum gloss. When done right, the finished job looked like it had been sprayed on. Through the years I've used this method on large flat surfaces at some of our houses, when looking for a gloss - semi gloss finish. A nearby ice chest full of cold beer was also beneficial. But, you had to drink that beer while on the move. No stopping, or you'd loose that necessary wet edge.
 

endobear

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paint conditioners....do you pro's use them and if so which do you prefer?
We use them on occasion. Mostly on trim work when your looking for nice leveling or if it's hit as hell out and your
brushing. Benjamin moore uses the Gen-Ex tint system. They require there special extender/conditioner. Sherwin williams materials we use Flow Trol.
A few ounces of water stirred in works well too.
 

endobear

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Growing up decking and operating So Cal fishing boats, we had to do the annual painting. These boats were clear fiberglass over plywood. 65 - 100 ft in length, so painting them was a big job. Some of the hulls were Philippine mahogany lapstrake. Proper sanding was vital, a thorough wipe down and use of a high quality marine paint. For us, spray painting was out of the question and often prohibited at various docks. So, we'd roll and brush. We'd first add Penetrol to the tray of paint, to promote flowing of the paint. We'd apply the paint with a good quality roller that didn't shed, followed immediately by a brush, lightly stroking vertically and popping the bubbles in the just rolled on paint. Keeping a wet edge was vital, so you had to move along quickly. Best done with 2 guys. Or even 3 with the third mixing paint and providing supplies. At one time we were using high quality brushes. But, we found the foam brushes worked just as well. Vertical stroke was vital for maximum gloss. When done right, the finished job looked like it had been sprayed on. Through the years I've used this method on large flat surfaces at some of our houses, when looking for a
gloss - semi gloss finish. A nearby ice chest full of cold beer was also beneficial. But, you had to drink that beer while on the move. No stopping, or you'd loose that necessary wet edge.
Just to clarify. Penetrol is for conditioning oil base finish.
Penetrol can also be used to seal raw/rusty metal.
 

LHC Kirby

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Unless I missed it @stephenkatsea is the only one that mentions using a high-quality paint brush - and immediately said the foam brush worked just as good - IN HIS situation. Different brushes for different situations and paints, I totally get. but a high-quality brush is so much better than the cheap ones that leave bristles behind - Clean them completely after every job and they will last for years. Assuming you are a homeowner not painting everyday for work.
 

2FORCEFULL

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A good painter should be able to cut a ceiling line faster and better than taping.
I have had guys do the tape and caulk or tape and paint to seal the tape on ceiling lines. It's just slow.

Although I have had a few guys that could make perfectly straight lines on.door and window casings. We still tape and caulk base and case.

The key to tape caulking is to get the caulking wiped away enough that you can see the edge of your tape.
that depends on the texture and colors....the key is to run a church key (can opener) old school beer opener down the edge, I had one taped to a stick,... I learned to cut in before blue tape and frog tape....so i can cut a straight line...or should I say used to be able... at 70 I shake so bad and now can't even see with readers on... thats another trick when paint base and casings.... keep a pottle of drinking water, paint'll glide right on with a little drop of water in the pot...
 

coolchange

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another thing i do, because I paint furniture and cabinets, is I use a HVLP gun alot.... ever try to pour paint from a gallon can into a cup gun???? freek'n mess and you need 3 hands.... also,.. I use the cheep hvlp guns from harbor freight.... I drill out the tip to be able to spray latex ... they work great.... they sell a little stand that I clamp to a step ladder so I don't have to hold the gun, but when I put the paint into the gallon jug I thin the paint a little with water.... so easy to fill the cup gun with paint when you pour out of a jug, you can hold the filter with one hand and pour with the other...I also mark the jug "SPRAY" and what I painted with the color... , bedroom furniture, bath cabinets....... when done with the job you can put the lid on,.... and it's ready for painting the thing you wife picked up a yard sell to match...
It also works good to de-oxidize gel coat.
 

coolchange

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Another point on cutting in with a brush, load that sucker up, get the paint on the wall, then backtrack and cut in with the dryer brush. Can’t get it through my guys heads,they dip the brush, then wipe most the paint off of it, and then start cutting in. And you can hear that the brush is dry.
No matter how many times I tell them they still can’t figure out why I can cut twice as fast as them.
 

coolchange

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what part???
Penetrol. Wipe on a small area, let it haze off a little. Wipe it off. Gloss. I told a friend about this for the side of his fiberglass motorhome. So he wiped down the whole side of the motorhome with penetrol,
Then backed up and went to wipe it off and it wouldn’t come off. He was treating it like wax. Don’t do that. He still motherfuckers me today, and that was 25 years ago lol.
 

endobear

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that depends on the texture and colors....the key is to run a church key (can opener) old school beer opener down the edge, I had one taped to a stick,... I learned to cut in before blue tape and frog tape....so i can cut a straight line...or should I say used to be able... at 70 I shake so bad and now can't even see with readers on... thats another trick when paint base and casings.... keep a pottle of drinking water, paint'll glide right on with a little drop of water in the pot...
On some textures (if we are painting the cielings and walls) I'll run a tiny bead of caulk in the corner to cut in to.
When I started in commercial painting we didn't tape unless we were spraying.
If you couldn't cut a straight line on a metal door frame or ceiling you most likely won't make it to coffee break.
I don't have the shakes yet but cutting in from a ladder with readers on is new to me and I hate it. Messes with my balance.
 

2FORCEFULL

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Another point on cutting in with a brush, load that sucker up, get the paint on the wall, then backtrack and cut in with the dryer brush. Can’t get it through my guys heads,they dip the brush, then wipe most the paint off of it, and then start cutting in. And you can hear that the brush is dry.
No matter how many times I tell them they still can’t figure out why I can cut twice as fast as them.
kinda like watching someone keep rolling paint on with a dry roller..... they never get it...
 
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