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Jumper pole extensions or ideas?

RiverDave

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So been around this can am for about 20 minutes total and figured we are already gonna have one major problem. The battery(s) are under the rear seat that is bolted in with virtually no way to charge or access them.

So I’m thinking on board charger, but there is off times when you gotta jumpstart one of these things.

So now I’m thinking on board charger and a pair of leads to somewhere external on the car?

Eddie Marine makes this

D13D5EBB-FDFB-44CC-8D3A-4C8C2448DD66.png


Which is pretty nice and I think would work. Wondering what other canned ham owners are doing to solve this issue? (I have a bench in the back so removing the seat to get to the batteries isn’t an option)

RD
 

RVRKID

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I thought I read in the offroad upgrades that someone put external poles for this reason.
 

Mr. C

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I don't know squat about Can Am's but can you use a quick release type bolt for the back seat to remove it easier / quicker?
Or would that mess with the overall strength / durability ??
 

buck35

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I have a golfcart type plug with matching cables on my boat to get or give a jump.
 

hallett21

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What about the jump start relocate kits the chase trucks use. Let’s you attach a set of cables at the front or rear of your truck. You could always feed them the other way for a jump


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Riverfamlee

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DLC

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I have 2 batteries, perko style shut off with A/ B (one for each battery.)

I use hard mounted maintainer style leads to plug in the 2 maintainer/ chargers. You could make these leads longer up behind the seat and then also use these for your jumper.

most people have those small portable jumper / back up batteries that will jump start your car. So a traditional set of jumper cables aren’t needed.

but
If you decide you want a set you can make a custom set. Use 2 of the maintainer ends with 10/15 ft wire in between and you can snap on a set alligator clamps on one end ( the alligator clamps & hard wire leads usually come with a trickle charger)

we can get together next week and can go over what I have done. I’ll be out Friday and staying for 2 weeks..... maybe even go for a ride and have a beer or 3
 

SBMech

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Looks like RM and ibh got ya covered, just make sure the routing of the cables to the remote posts is secure and done well.
 

lbhsbz

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SBMech

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LargeOrangeFont

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LargeOrangeFont

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I have 2 batteries, perko style shut off with A/ B (one for each battery.)

I use hard mounted maintainer style leads to plug in the 2 maintainer/ chargers. You could make these leads longer up behind the seat and then also use these for your jumper.

most people have those small portable jumper / back up batteries that will jump start your car. So a traditional set of jumper cables aren’t needed.

but
If you decide you want a set you can make a custom set. Use 2 of the maintainer ends with 10/15 ft wire in between and you can snap on a set alligator clamps on one end ( the alligator clamps & hard wire leads usually come with a trickle charger)

we can get together next week and can go over what I have done. I’ll be out Friday and staying for 2 weeks..... maybe even go for a ride and have a beer or 3

We should get a ride together after thanksgiving if you are around!
 
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Ziggy

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Funny....I'm installing a set of remote battery posts and cutoff switch in my manx today Just got back with the hardware to do so.
Screenshot_20191119-131511_Amazon Shopping.jpg
Screenshot_20191119-131711_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 

River Runnin

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Same thing! ;) That is what I have on the H2 for the winch juice! ... I was more highlighting the Quick Dis-connect!
 

LargeOrangeFont

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What is the difference between these two other than 120.00?

Buy the $30-$50 terminals, mount them somewhere accessible and use a small jump box. Wire up an SAE charging lead while you are messing with it.

This 300A $30 jump box will start the Can Am. There is a nice $15 case for it sold separately. This is small and fits in your back pocket.

Ultra Compact DBPOWER 300A Peak 8000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (Only for Gas Engine up to 2.5L) Auto Battery Booster with Built-in LED Flashlight (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z4GCVG1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g6f1DbCVNDJZ2
 

Big_Gunz_

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I had this set up installed on my Rzr with a dual battery kit. The dash plug fits into a toggle switch on the dash and I just plug the battery chargers into it and let it do its thing.

dash plug.jpg
Genius Charger.jpg
 

Headless hula

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If you own any sort of boats/trucks/toys and don't have one of these yet...get one. Get marine grade tinned terminals and ANCOR tinned cable on Amazon or wherever, along with adhesive lined heat shrink of the appropriate size, and your life will be a lot better.

https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Battery-Terminal-Crimper-Crimping/dp/B06XR8BY65
I own that exact one. Works freaking awesome.

The pairs of jaws are stamped with numbers that dont seem to really correspond to any kind of terminal size, but after using it a few times, its pretty easy to get a handle on which ones to use for what gauge...
 

buck35

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So you have a 30000$ rig with another 30 dumped in and you can't jump it...LOL....o_O:rolleyes:
There's and old saying ya know.:p
 

mjc

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I bought these for my jeep and made my own
HYCLAT Red 2-4 Gauge Battery Quick Connect/Disconnect Wire Harness Plug Connector Recovery Winch Trailer (4 Pack)
 

rivermobster

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Those are slick! Thanks for the tip.

I have almost the exact same one I picked up at Harbour Freight. They had it on sale, and I used one of their 20% off one item coupons. Paid for a two year warranty (cause we both know it won't last that long) and paid around 40 bucks for everything. Works great for making custom cables!
 

rivermobster

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I own that exact one. Works freaking awesome.

The pairs of jaws are stamped with numbers that dont seem to really correspond to any kind of terminal size, but after using it a few times, its pretty easy to get a handle on which ones to use for what gauge...

The numbers correspond to the cable size. 4 for 4 gauge cable, and so on. That's how mine works anyway.
 

Headless hula

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The numbers correspond to the cable size. 4 for 4 gauge cable, and so on. That's how mine works anyway.
Mine isnt marked that way at all.
Of course its 2k miles away right now, but the #'s are arbitrary on my kit.

Either way, with a little experience it isnt hard to get sorted.
 

lbhsbz

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Mine isnt marked that way at all.
Of course its 2k miles away right now, but the #'s are arbitrary on my kit.

Either way, with a little experience it isnt hard to get sorted.

It's chinese...it's metric...cable diameter in mm, at least on the one I have.

It tends to leave a couple "wings" on the terminal between the dies...so before I finish the crimp, I release the tool and rotate the terminal in the dies so no material gets extruded between the dies.
 

Bails

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I put in the two batt kit and the external pole kit this weekend. Super easy. the external pole kit from UTV stereo took about 5 minutes to install.
 

RiverDave

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Lots of great ideas in this thread! I am not even sure if I have two batteries and an isolater in it yet because I haven’t removed the back seat! Lol

This was one of those “Dave play the stereo” at the Sand and water expo questions.. I looked for the battery after about ten minutes in case I’d have to jump start it and realized it was probably a good idea to fix this before I ever needed to do it. Lol.
 

Riverfamlee

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CA180600-2738-4B2E-A29A-AB3911A763A2.jpeg
Lots of great ideas in this thread! I am not even sure if I have two batteries and an isolater in it yet because I haven’t removed the back seat! Lol

This was one of those “Dave play the stereo” at the Sand and water expo questions.. I looked for the battery after about ten minutes in case I’d have to jump start it and realized it was probably a good idea to fix this before I ever needed to do it. Lol.

I slapped one of the in for that reason- quick visual of the voltage and it has 2 USB to charge shit as well
 

nuckingfuts

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Go old school, a couple sets of tweco fittings and some welding cable. Probably all in for $ 50-60
 

Gelcoater

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So been around this can am for about 20 minutes total and figured we are already gonna have one major problem. The battery(s) are under the rear seat that is bolted in with virtually no way to charge or access them.

So I’m thinking on board charger, but there is off times when you gotta jumpstart one of these things.

So now I’m thinking on board charger and a pair of leads to somewhere external on the car?

Eddie Marine makes this

View attachment 818134

Which is pretty nice and I think would work. Wondering what other canned ham owners are doing to solve this issue? (I have a bench in the back so removing the seat to get to the batteries isn’t an option)

RD
Canned ham owners. Noted. :rolleyes:
My Banshee has a kick starter:cool:
 

WhatExit?

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Professional grade, from AW Direct

B/A Jumper Cable Kit Power Plug Pro 30
ba_t3_pro30_web.jpg

ba_t3_pro30_web.tmb-0.jpg

ba_t3_pro30_boxed_web.tmb-0.jpg

In Stock
List Price: $261.24
Price: $208.99
Item #: BA-T3-PRO30



This is what I was going to suggest...

A set of Anderson Connectors

4721aecdbe8ec5a396ce9dfcfa7b60f5_tn
 

rrrr

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anderson connectors and a blue sea on off switch.

That won't work unless you cart around jumper cables with an Anderson end on them, which someone posted a photo of above, along with a $200+ price. Terminal posts with 6 AWG cables from the post to the SXS battery are a better idea, any set of jumper cables can be used on them.

I'm saying 6 AWG is OK, as long as it's Ancor Marine wire, which has 105°C rated insulation. It's the same size and type as the vehicle's stock battery wiring.
 
Last edited:

Carlson-jet

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All this complicated stuff. :confused:
Only 1, One standoff is needed and that is for the +/positive side terminal for a jumpstart situation or even a charging situation.
:cool:
I've just gotta be me. :p
 

boatdoc55

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If you own any sort of boats/trucks/toys and don't have one of these yet...get one. Get marine grade tinned terminals and ANCOR tinned cable on Amazon or wherever, along with adhesive lined heat shrink of the appropriate size, and your life will be a lot better.

https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Battery-Terminal-Crimper-Crimping/dp/B06XR8BY65
Damn, I wish I had those back when I had my own shop!! For years and years I made battery leads with real nice welding cable and swedged solid copper on them with a tool I think from Snappy that one hit with a hemmer to swedge. Loved that tool but this one is so much farther advanced.
 

racetrash

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I use Powerwerx.com. small anderson plugs, 2 cables , 1 for each battery, and 2 batt maintainers from wally world zyp tyd together with the ends changed over to andersons. You can also grab some lightweight jumper cables and change


the end to plug into the car plugs, jump or be jumped.
 
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