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Metal Cutting - Best Way?

WhatExit?

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Got myself into a DIY project involving some Strut (e.g., Unistrut, Super Strut, etc.) and some steel angles. All of them need to be cut to length and I'd like the cuts to be clean when done (I know I can file/grind them).

So, how do I cut them? I don't want to hacksaw them. I have a right angle grinder but I haven't tried using it to make clean cuts before. I also have a Compound Miter Saw (12") but not sure about using it and what blades - also read I may need to slow the saw's blade speed down with a device.

I was thinking about buying a cordless Milwaukee bandsaw but I missed out on the sale the other day.
Screen Shot 2020-01-23 at 11.04.27 PM.png

What suggestions do you have for making fairly accurate, clean cuts?

Could use this blade on the Right Angle Grinder
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-4-5-in-Metal-Cutting-Diamond-Blade-HD-MTL45/204202513

or this
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-...ressed-Center-10-Pack-DBD045063710F/205458813

12" blade could be used on the Chop Saw
DEWALT DW8022 12-Inch x 1/8-Inch x 1-Inch A24N Abrasive Metal Cutting Wheel
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW802...t=&hvlocphy=9030039&hvtargid=pla-568686686799
 

Icky

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They make cold cut saws which look like chop saws but are made for cutting metal, even have a Milwaukee skill saw made for cutting metal.

Anything you cut the metal with will need to be deburred. A horizontal band saw, cold cut saw or abrasive chop saw will save you from laying out square lines for all your cuts. The abrasive chop saw will need more deburring then the others.

Other options are the porta band, metabo (6" cut off "grinder"), sawzall, also abrasive cut off wheels for your grinder. Wear a face shield if using the grinder, it doesn't have a clutch like the metabo.
 

Yellowboat

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I always just used a saszall at the correct metal blade for cutting. Then i got a portaband. The sawzall works fine if you take your time.
 

SoCalDave

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They make cold cut saws which look like chop saws but are made for cutting metal, even have a Milwaukee skill saw made for cutting metal.

Anything you cut the metal with will need to be deburred. A horizontal band saw, cold cut saw or abrasive chop saw will save you from laying out square lines for all your cuts. The abrasive chop saw will need more deburring then the others.

Other options are the porta band, metabo (6" cut off "grinder"), sawzall, also abrasive cut off wheels for your grinder. Wear a face shield if using the grinder, it doesn't have a clutch like the metabo.

This^^^^
 

lbhsbz

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How big is the job? A bandsaw will leave minimal burrs, while an abrasive saw will leave the greatest burrs. I bought on of those "diamond" blades the other day...which I suspect is not really diamond but CBN, and it works relatively well. Grab a die grinder with a carbide burr to make quick work of de-burring the strut. Lots of cuts....I'd grab a portable band saw, that's what I used to use to cut strut to hang HVAC equipment in commercial construction where he had hundreds of cuts/day. Less than 50 cuts, I'd choose a tool you already have and get the best blade you can find. I picked the diablo brand "diamond" blade...and while it has a larger kerf than a good quality abrasive, it doesn't seem to wear at all.
 

monkeyswrench

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It would depend on accuracy needed, and if on site or shop. The corded "Porta-band" deals work well, and clean in terms of dust or chips. The cold saws are lower speed than a chop saw, but still fling the chips. A cheap chop saw will do it, but repeatability can suffer...well, if you get in a hurry. They also make a mess, which goes back to location.
 

highvoltagehands

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Portabands and Sawzalls are OK, but circular saw metal cutting blades are much better, faster and easier. We use portable 18v cordless circular saws w/ these saw blades on our Line crews for cutting Off steel hardware like 5/8, 3/4, & 1” diameter steel thru bolts and 7/8” shallow strut, 1-5/8” deep strut and 3-1/4” double deep strut.
54783_48-40-4070v1-lg.jpg

54780_48-40-4070-lg.jpg

Circular Saw Metal Cutting Blades

MILWAUKEE® Metal Circular Saw Blades were specifically designed to exceed the expectations of contractors for blade life, cut quality, and speed in the most demanding metal cutting applications – without a lubricant. A hand-tensioned, hardened alloy steel body extends blade life and delivers the highest quality cuts available. Carbide Tipped teeth with Alternate Top Bevel grind shear through metal leaving burr-free, cool-to-touch cuts.

PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS
Pack Qty1 Pack
Hook Angle0°
Diameter
5-3/8"
10"
6-1/2"
6-7/8"
7-1/4"
8"
5-7/8"
14"
Number of Teeth
50
80
60
52
48
30
36
42
72
90
Application
Non-Ferrous Metal
non-ferrous, metal, plastic
1/4"-1-1/4" Flat Stock
1/4" and under Bar Stock and Flat Stock
Ferrous Metal
Metal
Ferrous Metal 3/32" and Thinner
Ferrous Metal, 3/32" and thicker
Stainless Steel
 

mjc

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Depending how many you can have the metal supply place cut it all for you.
 

Icky

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I like this idea but it sounds like the Milwaukee cordless band saw would provide cleaner cuts and be less "messy"
If you plan on cutting bigger things in the future you might consider getting the larger m18 version.
 

Done-it-again

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Do you have a miter saw? Use a metal cutting blade and be done.

We cut metal all day. Those little bandsaw are nice, but are limited to what you can cut.

I have larger handled bandsaw if you want to barrow one.
 

KMH

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I cut my thumb off on my first birthday with one of these, 46 years ago today
93762_W3.jpg
 

rvrrun

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This is the second best tool I’ve purchased next to my 40 year old floor jack. If you purchase a couple of nice blades for it and set it up properly it will make a very clean cut and not walk more that .0010”. I use it mainly for cutting material off to use in the large or mill. You are welcome to come cut your parts with it if you are here in the South Bay.
 

Flying_Lavey

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The cordless bandsaws are awesome! Like with any saw, a good sharp blade makes all the difference.

What is the reasoning for needing to clean the cuts? For safety or for aesthetics?

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
 

WhatExit?

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I cut my thumb off on my first birthday with one of these, 46 years ago today
93762_W3.jpg

Jeeeeeeeeez! That’s awful to hear. I’ve worked with what I think are more dangerous machines including lots of table and radial arm saws - never woulda thought that band saw was so bad but any machine has risks
 

WhatExit?

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The cordless bandsaws are awesome! Like with any saw, a good sharp blade makes all the difference.

What is the reasoning for needing to clean the cuts? For safety or for aesthetics?

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

I’m making a rack for my truck using strut and some steel angle so it’s all about esthetics in this case. It’ll all be rattle canned afterwards
 

Flying_Lavey

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I’m making a rack for my truck using strut and some steel angle so it’s all about esthetics in this case. It’ll all be rattle canned afterwards
You're not making a homemade bolt together ladder rack are you?

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
 

lbhsbz

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I’m making a rack for my truck using strut and some steel angle so it’s all about esthetics in this case. It’ll all be rattle canned afterwards

I would use tube and weld it...unistrut is not good for structural applications like that, it's "twisty" for lack of a better term.
 

DLC

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Where are you located? I have chop saw and 2 Milwaukee band saws. You could borrow one I’m in SD north county- Escondido.

I use the m12 porta band all the time for cutting uni strut it does a nice clean cut but most times they don’t turn out square, one side is usually off.

if you want a square end cut get a metal chop saw carbide tip would be the best, also most expensive. The harbor freight chop saw posted above would be the cheapest square cut option, just don’t apply to much pressure while cutting the bland will wonder and give you a un square cut.

the m12 would be the most useful tool after your completed the project as you can use it to cut just about anything I use my for wood plastic aluminum steel and rebar & bolts - all thread
 

RaceTec

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Where are you at? You can come by the shop if you are local, I have all of the above...
 
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WhatExit?

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You're not making a homemade bolt together ladder rack are you?

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

Nope. Just a low (not full height) rack using strut as cross rails and I'll bolt a basket on top. Kinda like this (no basket shown):

Screen Shot 2020-01-24 at 10.05.17 AM.png


Basket kinda like this but no airfoil needed...
blacks-max-load-roof-racks-36010-64_1000.jpg


Where are you located? I have chop saw and 2 Milwaukee band saws. You could borrow one I’m in SD north county- Escondido.

I use the m12 porta band all the time for cutting uni strut it does a nice clean cut but most times they don’t turn out square, one side is usually off.

if you want a square end cut get a metal chop saw carbide tip would be the best, also most expensive. The harbor freight chop saw posted above would be the cheapest square cut option, just don’t apply to much pressure while cutting the bland will wonder and give you a un square cut.

the m12 would be the most useful tool after your completed the project as you can use it to cut just about anything I use my for wood plastic aluminum steel and rebar & bolts - all thread

Thanks! I'm in the Phoenix area


Where are you at? You can come by the shop if you are local, I have all of the above...

Thanks! I'm in the Phoenix area. Where are you at?
 
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RaceTec

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Huntington Beach, kind of a long haul...
 

Taboma

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AAhhhh come on, it's only strut and two cuts at that. Two beer project if you rested between hacksaw cuts, one beer with a sawzall and file.
Strut is soft metal and once past the top and bottom it's like cutting butter. If you pre-mark the sides (Usually where the saw walks) with a straight edge and take your time, it'll come out fine.
Quit typing and cut it already, lol :p
 

ka0tyk

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How do those portable circular saws do with cutting steel plate / angle? Spinning blades and steel scares the crap out of me. I've always used a death wheel or a sawzall and the cuts are quite craptastic. Hacksaws tend to drift off mid cut. One time I cut some aluminum plate on my table saw after watching a youtube vid and my butt was puckered the whole cut. I really need to get me one of those cutting wheel chop saws.
 

WhatExit?

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AAhhhh come on, it's only strut and two cuts at that. Two beer project if you rested between hacksaw cuts, one beer with a sawzall and file.
Strut is soft metal and once past the top and bottom it's like cutting butter. If you pre-mark the sides (Usually where the saw walks) with a straight edge and take your time, it'll come out fine.
Quit typing and cut it already, lol :p


You're right. It's only strut. But it's more than 2 cuts. And there'll likely be some steel angle to cut. That said, I could do it all by hacksaw and my miter box. Maybe I will...
 

Mr. C

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How do those portable circular saws do with cutting steel plate / angle? Spinning blades and steel scares the crap out of me. I've always used a death wheel or a sawzall and the cuts are quite craptastic. Hacksaws tend to drift off mid cut. One time I cut some aluminum plate on my table saw after watching a youtube vid and my butt was puckered the whole cut. I really need to get me one of those cutting wheel chop saws.
I'd like to know as well. was contemplating something like for my sons garage projects.

saw1.jpg

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-mini-metal-saw.html
 

lbhsbz

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You're right. It's only strut. But it's more than 2 cuts. And there'll likely be some steel angle to cut. That said, I could do it all by hacksaw and my miter box. Maybe I will...

Get one those diamond cutoff wheels like the Ridgid one you posted earlier. Take your time and you can cut right on the mark.

I used a similar wheel on an angle grinder to cut all the metal for this table (angle and strut) ..the cuts required minor cleanup, but minimal
img_0244-jpg.827516
 
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450grip

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How do those portable circular saws do with cutting steel plate / angle? Spinning blades and steel scares the crap out of me. I've always used a death wheel or a sawzall and the cuts are quite craptastic. Hacksaws tend to drift off mid cut. One time I cut some aluminum plate on my table saw after watching a youtube vid and my butt was puckered the whole cut. I really need to get me one of those cutting wheel chop saws.
they work fantastic, as long as the material is 3/8" thick or less. you have to go a bit slower than if you were cutting wood, but still it's very easy.
abrasive wheel saws are the least efficient ways to make multiple cuts, and sawzall and bandsaws tend to wander
 

DLC

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You could also get a speed square and a skill saw and get the black fiber blade that you use on the chop saw and cut it up that way.

just cut it slow and have a couple extra blades on hand
 

Spudsbud

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you buy a cordless portaban you better get several spare batteries.
Go get a Milwaukkee Portaban with plug!!! and get the job done.
Retired Fitter 40 yrs exp.
 

Taboma

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You're right. It's only strut. But it's more than 2 cuts. And there'll likely be some steel angle to cut. That said, I could do it all by hacksaw and my miter box. Maybe I will...

I was only looking at strut being the two cross bars. I made a sliding bed divider for my Raptor and used Stainless Strut --- now that shit was hard :mad:
Good info in this thread, in the field we used porta-bands or large cut-off saws if were doing a lot of cuts. But alas I'm retired and all the big-boy-cool tools are gone.
So for me it's hacksaw or sawzall these days for my home projects. :)
 

AzMandella

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Being I am in the steel business I know a thing or two about cutting . If this is a one time thing go the cheapest rout . A chop saw will be the best way to keep the ends square as long as you use something the same height as the base of the saw . Band saw the best way to go if you have future projects .
Heres a couple quick pics I took of our family business out of my office right now .



 

Icky

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you buy a cordless portaban you better get several spare batteries.
Go get a Milwaukkee Portaban with plug!!! and get the job done.
Retired Fitter 40 yrs exp.
Battery technology has come a long way, the m18 porta band with a 5.0/9.0/12.0 battery will cut for a long time.
That being said, I still use corded tools when I don't want to abuse my cordless stuff.
 

AzMandella

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CNC water jet cutting machine is the only way to go.
Depends what you are doing . If you are cutting thinner material say 1/2" and under and it's something that has close tolerances , water jet is very good . Although laser is better . But if you are cutting heavy material say 1" thick and up . High Definition Plasma is the way to go . Our CNC plasma has a pierce limit of 1-1/2" and edge start up to 3" after that we use cnc oxy fuel up to 10" thick . Water jets are very slow . in fact the slowest of the processes . We can cut 1-1/2 inch plate rings 10 to 1 over a watejet and hold tolerances within .020 . We also have a 5 axis bevelling head . Fun shit !!
 

Headless hula

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How do those portable circular saws do with cutting steel plate / angle? Spinning blades and steel scares the crap out of me. I've always used a death wheel or a sawzall and the cuts are quite craptastic. Hacksaws tend to drift off mid cut. One time I cut some aluminum plate on my table saw after watching a youtube vid and my butt was puckered the whole cut. I really need to get me one of those cutting wheel chop saws.
My brother has had one of the corded Milwaukee "skil saws" for steel for a very long time. I've personally cut 1/2" plate steel with it, and its fantastic.

Safety glasses and a pair of gloves. Clamp a straight edge, and have at it.

No burr, no glowing hot marbles all over the floor. Blades aren't cheap, and hot rolled steel will screw up a blade.

Don't try and cut bed frames to use the angle iron.
 
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