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Marine oil coolers / what are folks running?

ONE-A-DAY

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I have an oil cooler on my blown 509, are there better ways to go then the unit below I’m using? It looks ancient, not sure if there are more technology advanced ways of cooling oil these days?
0308AF4C-1A02-48B5-ADDC-2E493DF78C7C.jpeg
 

RiverDave

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Before we get into all that.. what is exactly the problem you are having? Is temp rising on prolonged runs or something?

have you checked the flow for water through the cooler?
 

renodaytona

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I'm getting ready to drop in my new build and will be running the updated version of what you have there. The new one I purchased is 24" long and 3" OD.
 

zx14

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I got the same one on mine Walt, it’s hard to get my oil warm. You do have to open the inlet once a year and get the weeds out, even with my strainers, some gets in there. Btw, I haven’t seen any pics of the new sled.
 

lenmann

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A buddy just had Teague install a 1050 in his 28' Daytona. They used this cooler as part of the install, so far so good.
 

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LOBOATOMY

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use an oil t-stat or the oil will NEVER get warm enough, that 3" od cooler is a monster, I used -12 lines.
 

Boat 405

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Been using one from Mr Cool. The largest one they make in this style. It has a thermostat as well. Motor is a 582 860 hp. 800 ft lbs. oil temp comes up on a spirited run to 220 ish and comes back to 180 almost as fast as it went up and stays at 180 where the tstat is set to temp. 3” diameter. 24” long with a small section for power steering.

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obnoxious001

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Dan Olson coolers work well, are able to be disassembled if necessary to clean them. Depending on your particular installation, the block mount version means no external oil lines required, just water in and out. Difficult to remove the oil filter on a boat with limited engine clearance to the bottom of the hull. They also make a remote mount version. I have a new one of those here for sale that didn't get used on a boat I built an engine for. https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/brand-new-olson-remote-oil-cooler.212237/
 

ONE-A-DAY

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I got the same one on mine Walt, it’s hard to get my oil warm. You do have to open the inlet once a year and get the weeds out, even with my strainers, some gets in there. Btw, I haven’t seen any pics of the new sled.

Tell me more about the cleaning out process, my guess is it hasnt been done in years, the strainer is cleaned regularly, didn’t know about a cleaning process on them.
 

ONE-A-DAY

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Before we get into all that.. what is exactly the problem you are having? Is temp rising on prolonged runs or something?

have you checked the flow for water through the cooler?

Exactly, I’m coming off of years of outboards where you just pin it from Windsor to the springs and don’t worry about it. I may be asking for something that isn’t really possible with a built, non stock I/o set up.
Morning run to the springs, cruise about 70 -80 with occasional bursts into the low teens and oil temp will start to get close to 275 -300, recovers right back down to cool when you back out of it.
 

procraftkev

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If nothing is plugged up it sounds like a water volume issue. Could be cavitation. I have the brass pump and had the same issue surfaced the end plate and problem solved..
 

zx14

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Tell me more about the cleaning out process, my guess is it hasnt been done in years, the strainer is cleaned regularly, didn’t know about a cleaning process on them.
Just take off the inlet hose, stick your fingers up in there and pull out any crap
 

TexasJet

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Check your 90 degree AN fittings for calcium build up. I had one once and it looked like a clogged artery. The others were fine but this one 90 looked real bad.
 

renodaytona

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Check your 90 degree AN fittings for calcium build up. I had one once and it looked like a clogged artery. The others were fine but this one 90 looked real bad.

I'm using nickel plated fittings on all of my waterlines due to finding several aluminum AN fittings deteriorating on the ID.
 

Spray-N-Sand

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If you‘re able to disconnect and pull the cooler completely that’s going to be your best bet, especially if you‘ve had a failed pump impeller.
PO of my rig wasn’t too on top of his shit and the pic shows what I found in my cooler. Wouldn’t backflush, couldn’t pull these impeller chunks out. Pulled the cooler and had to send aluminum welding rod in to push the shit out.
 

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Boat 405

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Exactly, I’m coming off of years of outboards where you just pin it from Windsor to the springs and don’t worry about it. I may be asking for something that isn’t really possible with a built, non stock I/o set up.
Morning run to the springs, cruise about 70 -80 with occasional bursts into the low teens and oil temp will start to get close to 275 -300, recovers right back down to cool when you back out of it.
275-300...... I hope you have synthetic oil in there.... Damn. 220 -230 sustained doesn't bother me a bit. 250 for a short blip.. 275-300 I think you'd start smelling the burnt...
 

Hammer

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IMG_1094.jpg

IMG_1093.jpg

IMG_1092.jpg

Teague sells this one. I was going to run it on my 730HP/760TQ 565 N/A engine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Hammer

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......
 
Last edited:

ToMorrow44

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Exactly, I’m coming off of years of outboards where you just pin it from Windsor to the springs and don’t worry about it. I may be asking for something that isn’t really possible with a built, non stock I/o set up.
Morning run to the springs, cruise about 70 -80 with occasional bursts into the low teens and oil temp will start to get close to 275 -300, recovers right back down to cool when you back out of it.
Where are you measuring the oil temp at? My sensor is in the block above the oil filter mount. My oil temps hardly get above 140, but that sensor is post oil cooler and I’ve been told that’s normal.
 

Moneypit

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Dan Olson coolers work well, are able to be disassembled if necessary to clean them. Depending on your particular installation, the block mount version means no external oil lines required, just water in and out. Difficult to remove the oil filter on a boat with limited engine clearance to the bottom of the hull. They also make a remote mount version. I have a new one of those here for sale that didn't get used on a boat I built an engine for. https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/brand-new-olson-remote-oil-cooler.212237/
CAUTION******* Using an Olson block mount cooler eliminates the factory type filter by pass. You MUST use a filter with a built in by pass, and WIX racing filters do not have one..... Cost me an engine at Long Beach in 2009 after "Bob" highly recommended the Wix racing filter over the Fram HP4 I'd been using for decades....*******CAUTION
Ray
 

lbhsbz

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Exactly, I’m coming off of years of outboards where you just pin it from Windsor to the springs and don’t worry about it. I may be asking for something that isn’t really possible with a built, non stock I/o set up.
Morning run to the springs, cruise about 70 -80 with occasional bursts into the low teens and oil temp will start to get close to 275 -300, recovers right back down to cool when you back out of it.

Get a gauge that only goes to 250...that’s how I fixed mine.
 

She's Mine

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Exactly, I’m coming off of years of outboards where you just pin it from Windsor to the springs and don’t worry about it. I may be asking for something that isn’t really possible with a built, non stock I/o set up.
Morning run to the springs, cruise about 70 -80 with occasional bursts into the low teens and oil temp will start to get close to 275 -300, recovers right back down to cool when you back out of it.

Holy Crap 275-300*? Man that is hot. I have a 12 plate oil cooler for Hardin Marine and I've seen 200* maybe once. Usually runs 160* or so. I would check your water lines to the the cooler and the flow through the cooler.

BTW, I love my oil cooler. It is a small clean setup and looks really nice.
 
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