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Suggestion for loosening interior screws

ONE-A-DAY

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Boat I just bought has a new interior but they went cheap and just used self tapping screws. For the time being I will just deal with it, whats the solution for self tapping screws that back out from fiberglass, put some silicone on them?
 

evantwheeler

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Boat I just bought has a new interior but they went cheap and just used self tapping screws. For the time being I will just deal with it, whats the solution for self tapping screws that back out from fiberglass, put some silicone on them?

Probably aren't even stainless! Best bet would be to through bolt with a nylock nut on the backside if the rear of the fastener is accessible. Another alternative would be to use a machine screw and the appropriately sized hole. If you drill the right sized hole and have adequate thickness, when you install the screw, it will "tap" the hole. I've had smaller panels held in this way that held in place without backing out.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Couple drops of a good 2 part epoxy works for me.

A couple times I've drilled out the threads just to clean the hole, taken a child medicine dosing syringe (free @ CVS) and filled the hole with epoxy or marine JB weld for bigger holes and simply redrilled the hole, reinserted a fresh self tapping screw.

If possible convert to machine screws with a washer and locknut on the back for the longer term fix.
 

ONE-A-DAY

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Couple drops of a good 2 part epoxy works for me.

A couple times I've drilled out the threads just to clean the hole, taken a child medicine dosing syringe (free @ CVS) and filled the hole with epoxy or marine JB weld for bigger holes and simply redrilled the hole, reinserted a fresh self tapping screw.

If possible convert to machine screws with a washer and locknut on the back for the longer term fix.

No access for changing them over to machine screws / locknuts
 

Meaney77

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Resin works well too. Dip the tip of the screw in, and let it rip.
I have the same issue on my Eliminator. If you "dip the tip" does that make for more of a PIA when you do have to get the screw out for whatever reason?
 

HB2Havasu

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Couple drops of a good 2 part epoxy works for me.

I've done the same. Just clean the hole threads and screw with either MEK or Isopropyl Alchohol before applying epoxy. The screws will still be removeable whenever you need to unscrew them in the future.
 

YeahYeah01

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For a temp fix Ive used a small length of zip tie, feed it in the stripped hole and screw the screw back in, it holds really well until you can find a perminate fix.

Basically the same principle of toothpicks in a stripped screw hole in a door jamb.
 

QC22

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For a temp fix Ive used a small length of zip tie, feed it in the stripped hole and screw the screw back in, it holds really well until you can find a perminate fix.

Basically the same principle of toothpicks in a stripped screw hole in a door jamb.
I've used the toothpick deal for bimini strap loop mount thingees in a pinch and it held. What are those things called? Hook loop mounts? Dunno.
 

YeahYeah01

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I've used the toothpick deal for bimini strap loop mount thingees in a pinch and it held. What are those things called? Hook loop mounts? Dunno.
Ya it works and the zip ties are plastic so no worries about water. It saved me a couple of times until I could properly fix it.

I think they are deck hinges or something like that.
 

throttle

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First, I think you should stay away from wake boats.

Second, this will come up later... but thought to chew on, “speed for conditions”

Lastly, I don’t have any suggestions. I just keep a screwdriver in glovebox.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Boat 405

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Boat I just bought has a new interior but they went cheap and just used self tapping screws. For the time being I will just deal with it, whats the solution for self tapping screws that back out from fiberglass, put some silicone on them?
Walt, another option is to install a nut sert into the hole where the self tapping screw was installed and then use a machine screw like 8/32 or 10/32 into the nut sert. It’s a little time consuming but that way there is nut to have access to in the future to remove panels. Just use machine screws and anti seize.
 

wzuber

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Clear silicone isnt an option?
yes it is and will likely suffice however the silicone needs to contacted and drawn into the hole at the surface of the hole. Place the silicone on hull then apply screw through item to be held in place. that way you insure the silicone goes into the hole/glass to help retain and nowhere else. How thick id the glass where the screw is trying to hold? Also possible a larger like #14 screw may have better hold power being it has a larger contact/grip area on the hull? gatta pic? haha
 

wzuber

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If I go with the 5200 can I back the screw out if need be?
no...not according to the product label. it's for permanent installation such as hull rigging on sail boats etc. For your app. any silicone should help depending on how much force/movement the piece is experiencing.
 

wzuber

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really good water proof silicone

That's 4200.....5200 is for permanent installations such as high strength hull deck (think sail boat rigging) and below water line applications. It's stated as such on the label.
 

DLC

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Can you pop rivet/ Thru bolt etc an aluminum flat strap to the back side or add some “backing “ to the fiberglass So the screw can get some bite so the screw sticks

it would be a lot of work to do a entire boat.... almost winter
 

stingray11

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That's 4200.....5200 is for permanent installations such as high strength hull deck (think sail boat rigging) and below water line applications. It's stated as such on the label.
No it's not that strong it dries in a rubbery compound that can be removed just stronger than regular silicone

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J DUNN

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I have snap in sea-grass (woven mats) type floor in the fiberglass floor of my Cobalt. Every year a few screws break or strip out of the fiberglass as I pull the mats up for cleaning. I have a pack of 25 nut-serts and stainless machine thread screws to replace them and hold the snaps in place. They work great, don't need access to the back side and have a reliable machine thread that you can loctite if needed.
 

ONE-A-DAY

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Can you pop rivet/ Thru bolt etc an aluminum flat strap to the back side or add some “backing “ to the fiberglass So the screw can get some bite so the screw sticks

it would be a lot of work to do a entire boat.... almost winter

Whats winter?
 

DLC

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Those are the months you do your boat maintenance , when it’s nice and cool
 

D19

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Put the caulk gun down and do it right. Use threaded nut serts not the hammer in kind. And not the cheap furniture kind. They won’t come loose again and will be easy to service. 2nd strongest method after through bolting.
 
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02HoWaRd26

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Pretty simple and super clean way, figure the correct machine screws in stainless, than simply drill and tap the fiberglass. You’ll only need 3/8” of glass for a good bite however the thicker the glass the better.
When you go to do the actual install be sure to use a dab of resin on the tips, and only hand tighten, don’t use any power tools.
 
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