Home AC upgrade / change question

[Kbach]

OK RDP experts – need some advice. Sorry in advance for the long winded post !

I have a 2 story 2100 sf house in Simi Valley and am looking to improve/upgrade/update the AC system.

Currently I have a 5T central air split system installed in a hallway closet downstairs that feeds the whole house. It’s over 20yrs old and still plugging along so I can’t complain - but it has its limitations. During the heat of the summer we can keep downstairs comfortable but upstairs is always a struggle. There’s usually a 5-6 degree temp difference at the end of the day which makes going to bed upstairs kinda suck. The volume of air coming out of the vents upstairs vs downstairs is a lot. There’s no damper that I know of to control what is going up vs. down. I’ve tried nearly closing all of the registers downstairs to get more air upstairs but it doesn’t make a drastic difference. I guess it’s possible there are leaks in the upstairs ducting but noting that I’ve seen/felt in my searching. One problem I see with the current system is that there are no returns in any rooms, only by the closet where the unit is downstairs.

Here’s where I’m at….and options that are floating around in my head...

1 - Install a new multi zone central air split system and ductwork for the whole house. At this time maybe they could add return air registers/ducting? Not sure how that would be possible downstairs, upstairs no problem since ducting would in the attic.

2 - Install multi-zone ductless mini split systems in the whole house (4 bedrooms upstairs and fairly open floorplan downstairs)

3 - Install ceiling cassette style mini splits downstairs (I’m thinking 2 could handle the downstair areas) and install a new smaller split system in the attic to feed only the upstairs along with new ductwork and returns. This option would free up the floorspace where the unit is currently and allow me to add a shower to a bathroom downstairs. This might be needed down the road with aging in-laws that might end up living with us.

Any info would be appreciated – Thanks!

 

[TPC]

You can't balance your system air distribution with the registers/vents.
You need these butterfly's in each duct to throttle airflow.

View attachment 1037329

Check your ducts for air leaks.

If you can install return air from the most distant spot or even spots upstairs that's a BFD.

 

[Gelcoater]

OK RDP experts – need some advice. Sorry in advance for the long winded post !

I have a 2 story 2100 sf house in Simi Valley and am looking to improve/upgrade/update the AC system.

Currently I have a 5T central air package unit installed in a hallway closet downstairs that feeds the whole house. It’s over 20yrs old and still plugging along so I can’t complain - but it has its limitations. During the heat of the summer we can keep downstairs comfortable but upstairs is always a struggle. There’s usually a 5-6 degree temp difference at the end of the day which makes going to bed upstairs kinda suck. The volume of air coming out of the vents upstairs vs downstairs is a lot. There’s no damper that I know of to control what is going up vs. down. I’ve tried nearly closing all of the registers downstairs to get more air upstairs but it doesn’t make a drastic difference. I guess it’s possible there are leaks in the upstairs ducting but noting that I’ve seen/felt in my searching. One problem I see with the current system is that there are no returns in any rooms, only by the closet where the unit is downstairs.

Here’s where I’m at….and options that are floating around in my head...

1 - Install a new multi zone central air package unit and ductwork for the whole house. At this time maybe they could add return air registers/ducting? Not sure how that would be possible downstairs, upstairs no problem since ducting would in the attic.

2 - Install multi-zone ductless mini split systems in the whole house (4 bedrooms upstairs and fairly open floorplan downstairs)

3 - Install ceiling cassette style mini splits downstairs (I’m thinking 2 could handle the downstair areas) and install a new package unit in the attic to feed only the upstairs along with new ductwork and returns. This option would free up the floorspace where the unit is currently and allow me to add a shower to a bathroom downstairs. This might be needed down the road with aging in-laws that might end up living with us.

Any info would be appreciated – Thanks!

Option one me be painful to the wallet and time frame.
Mine bought the farm first of the month.

Fortunately I have a friend in the business.
He found one of the only units there was between several suppliers.
Lots of out of stock shit out there.

On a side note his two helper kids gave me a glimmer of faith in the new generation.
Mine was an after work side job for them. They’d done 8 installs before arriving at my house. Both 21 year old kids.
In that pic is the old guy and a helper. Other helper was in my attic sweating balls.

 

[Kbach]

You can't balance your system air distribution with the registers/vents.
You need these butterfly's in each duct to throttle airflow.

View attachment 1037329

Check your ducts for air leaks.

If you can install return air from the most distant spot or even spots upstairs that's a BFD.

If I do go with a new split system I will most likely put it in the attic so return air ducting for upstairs should be easy.

 

[CLdrinker]

Being a former HVAV installer i always hated 2 story houses for this reason.
Very few are ducted correctly.

Turns out heat rises. If your duct sizing isnt spot on you have issues. Also you can’t just size it as a straight run because in 2 story homes you usually have to make some fucked up bends to get into a chase or run twice as far to follow a floor joist.

 

[CLdrinker]

If I do go with a new package unit I will most likely put it in the attic so return air ducting for upstairs should be easy.

Package unit in the attic. I’ve seen It done but boy was it kustom

 

[Kbach]

Package unit in the attic. I’ve seen It done but boy was it kustom

Sorry, I guess I’m using the wrong term - I mean putting the coil/air handler in the attic!

 

[Kbach]

Being a former HVAV installer i always hated 2 story houses for this reason.
Very few are ducted correctly.

Turns out heat rises. If your duct sizing isnt spot on you have issues. Also you can’t just size it as a straight run because in 2 story homes you usually have to make some fucked up bends to get into a chase or run twice as far to follow a floor joist.

Exactly why I’m leery of just putting a new split system in like I already have. Chances of having the same problems as before are good so I’ll be pissed off and my wallet will be empty!

 

[azsunfun]

t- stat location closer to upstairs around cieling level to first floor, if downstairs, obd registers are the cost effective first try.

 

[Xtrmwakeboarder]

Do you just need to cool one room upstairs, or are there multiple rooms? If I was going to custom build a house, I'd def go for some sort of zoning/ductless for my master bedroom since that's the only room I need to cool at night. Shut everything else off.

 

[Kbach]

Do you just need to cool one room upstairs, or are there multiple rooms? If I was going to custom build a house, I'd def go for some sort of zoning/ductless for my master bedroom since that's the only room I need to cool at night. Shut everything else off.

4 bedrooms upstairs so need to cook them all. I definitely want something with zones so I have more control over the balance of temps upstairs/downstairs.

 

[Ace in the Hole]

Being a former HVAV installer i always hated 2 story houses for this reason.
Very few are ducted correctly.

Turns out heat rises. If your duct sizing isnt spot on you have issues. Also you can’t just size it as a straight run because in 2 story homes you usually have to make some fucked up bends to get into a chase or run twice as far to follow a floor joist.

this...also insulation and radiant barrier are your friend.

a 20 year old 5 ton system Is not like a new one....we installed a new 16 seer 5t on our havasu house this year...holy crap what a difference.

 

[Riverbound]

I can help you with this.

 

[Kbach]

I can help you with this.

I’m all ears. Not in a hurry to do this as I’m going to upgrade my electrical service panel before I do anything and don’t want to do it during summer and peak HVAC season. Figured I’d just try and start gathering info in advance.

 

[LuauLounge]

I had the same problem a number of years ago. I hung a ceiling fan in the stairwell that hung down right above the 1st floor ceiling level. It kept the heat from rising year round.

 

[Fastdadtsmith]

Before you get too deep, check your power company, city, county, state for rebates, financing, etc. Lots of time they sweeten the deal when your going green.

 

[Boat 405]

Multi zone mini split systems all day long. I just went through this. I had an old 4 ton unit doing the house, it would barely keep up in the heat. Had to run it all day beginning at like 7am and all day for it to make it kinda work.

I put in a 2 ton dual zone mini split for the master bedroom 1 ton and the kids bedroom 1 ton. One unit outside and two units inside. Then I put in a 2 ton mini split in the living/dining area. Not only can I come home at 4pm and turn it on and it's cold in 30 mins, my wallet it thanking me from the electric bill. Used to be over a $1000 for the month of july and august. Now I'm around $200.

 

[Riverbound]

I’m all ears. Not in a hurry to do this as I’m going to upgrade my electrical service panel before I do anything and don’t want to do it during summer and peak HVAC season. Figured I’d just try and start gathering info in advance.

There are many routes we can go.

The best would be doing a multi zone VrV system. This is the most efficient and most precise with temp and humidity control.

traditional multi stage give really good temp and humidity control and a good balance of efficiency and cost these can ask be zoned to heat/cool different area and the home.

Than you have single stage which is similar to what you have now.

 

[Mr. C]

I’m all ears. Not in a hurry to do this as I’m going to upgrade my electrical service panel before I do anything and don’t want to do it during summer and peak HVAC season. Figured I’d just try and start gathering info in advance.

Since you have the time. I can honestly say have RB come and go through your options. Or at the least spend some time on a phone call.


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[boatdoc55]

Multi zone mini split systems all day long. I just went through this. I had an old 4 ton unit doing the house, it would barely keep up in the heat. Had to run it all day beginning at like 7am and all day for it to make it kinda work.

I put in a 2 ton dual zone mini split for the master bedroom 1 ton and the kids bedroom 1 ton. One unit outside and two units inside. Then I put in a 2 ton mini split in the living/dining area. Not only can I come home at 4pm and turn it on and it's cold in 30 mins, my wallet it thanking me from the electric bill. Used to be over a $1000 for the month of july and august. Now I'm around $200.

Holy Crap 1K for the month, I'd commit harry carrie!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Rajobigguy]

If the problem is that you’re not getting enough air to the upper rooms you could put booster fans in the duct work leading upstairs. It’s a relatively inexpensive fix.

 

[DrunkenSailor]

Riverbound did our system. It works awesome and we have been using it alot this summer. Electric bill hasn't changed much. We were surprised in the difference in efficiency. Definitely give bill a call. Not only did they beat a competitor significantly but their customer service is top notch. We had a small issue after install and they had someone out that day to fix it.

We could not be happier.

 

[Flying_Lavey]

I would likely go VrV system like RB suggested. I would probably go simpler since you already have the registers and assuming the duct work is OK, it would be relatively straight forward to put 1 ducted fan coil in the existing location and cap off the riser ducts so 1 does bottom floor only and then add a second unit upstairs for the 2nd floor. Both would run off the same condenser but since the condenser is variable speed, you'd likely being running closer to only 3 tons of capacity at max most of the time (rarely have to cool the downstairs when there are 2 distribution systems).

Honestly wouldn't be surprised if you cut your electric bill damn near in half by doing something like this.

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[Riverbound]

I would likely go VrV system like RB suggested. I would probably go simpler since you already have the registers and assuming the duct work is OK, it would be relatively straight forward to put 1 ducted fan coil in the existing location and cap off the riser ducts so 1 does bottom floor only and then add a second unit upstairs for the 2nd floor. Both would run off the same condenser but since the condenser is variable speed, you'd likely being running closer to only 3 tons of capacity at max most of the time (rarely have to cool the downstairs when there are 2 distribution systems).

Honestly wouldn't be surprised if you cut your electric bill damn near in half by doing something like this.

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We do this exact setup all the time.

 

[Riverbound]

Since you have the time. I can honestly say have RB come and go through your options. Or at the least spend some time on a phone call.


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I don’t get to go out in the field much but will do whatever I can to get out personally for any Members that need help.

 

[jet496]

t- stat location closer to upstairs around cieling level to first floor, if downstairs, obd registers are the cost effective first try.

This is you're least costly & should work. You can get registers that come with OBD's (Opposed Blade Dampers) & simply install them at all your registers. You might need them for comfort balancing upstairs so I recommend doing all. You can install them yourself.

The only issue is air velocity noise from dampering the air at the register. That's why it's best to put dampers in the ducts further from the registers, so you don't hear the air passing across the choked dampers.

Hopefully the ductwork upstairs is sized decently to handle the air balancing. At least 8" ducts at the registers would be good. Of course the trunk lines matter.

 

[Dkahnjob]

Divide the house into two systems, one for the upstairs and one for the downstairs.
We can do this for you. We are located in Northridge.
Kahn Air Conditioning

 

[CoolCruzin]

I had the same problem a number of years ago. I hung a ceiling fan in the stairwell that hung down right above the 1st floor ceiling level. It kept the heat from rising year round.

I did the same thing
Made a difference
We run the fan in reverse moving the cold air going up .

 

[Flying_Lavey]

We do this exact setup all the time.

With the current VRV systems out there, I gotta imagine it's hard to beat that set-up on a 2 story.

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[Kbach]

Thanks to all of the info and suggestions from everybody on here. Definitely will be in touch with you guys in the business over the next couple of weeks.

 

[Mr. C]

With the current VRV systems out there, I gotta imagine it's hard to beat that set-up on a 2 story.

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Just sayin ours works awesome. When it’s 105+ out and people are saying there cold because the house is 72. Lol. Quiet as F also.

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[hman442]

OK RDP experts – need some advice. Sorry in advance for the long winded post !

I have a 2 story 2100 sf house in Simi Valley and am looking to improve/upgrade/update the AC system.

Currently I have a 5T central air split system installed in a hallway closet downstairs that feeds the whole house. It’s over 20yrs old and still plugging along so I can’t complain - but it has its limitations. During the heat of the summer we can keep downstairs comfortable but upstairs is always a struggle. There’s usually a 5-6 degree temp difference at the end of the day which makes going to bed upstairs kinda suck. The volume of air coming out of the vents upstairs vs downstairs is a lot. There’s no damper that I know of to control what is going up vs. down. I’ve tried nearly closing all of the registers downstairs to get more air upstairs but it doesn’t make a drastic difference. I guess it’s possible there are leaks in the upstairs ducting but noting that I’ve seen/felt in my searching. One problem I see with the current system is that there are no returns in any rooms, only by the closet where the unit is downstairs.

Here’s where I’m at….and options that are floating around in my head...

Any info would be appreciated – Thanks!

My house and situation sounds very similar. 2500 Sq ft two story, one thermostat downstairs. We'd have it 64 & freezing downstairs in the evening, trying to get it below 75 upstairs so we could be comfortable at bedtime. The air handler is in the garage, then the "main duct" goes under the house, then splits, one upstairs, one down. I just had the hvac guys put a thermostat upstairs, and then a box with two dampers in it at the junction under the house. Now, it is like two systems, controled independently. Upstairs and downstairs are exactly what I want. On super hot days, my system isn't quite big enough to keep the whole house 69-70. In the evening I'll turn the downstairs thermostat up to 73, that shuts the cool air off to downstairs, and blows it all upstairs, cools the bedrooms down pretty quickly. I don't remember the cost, it was 12 years ago, but it took two guys 1/2 day. The damper box doesn't look very expensive, one thermostat @ $175, and the control panel that both thermostats now run to which in run controls the dampers cost $250-300 when I had to replace it a couple years ago. With labor, today's prices, a guy still should be in the 1500-2k range ?

 

[Flying_Lavey]

My house and situation sounds very similar. 2500 Sq ft two story, one thermostat downstairs. We'd have it 64 & freezing downstairs in the evening, trying to get it below 75 upstairs so we could be comfortable at bedtime. The air handler is in the garage, then the "main duct" goes under the house, then splits, one upstairs, one down. I just had the hvac guys put a thermostat upstairs, and then a box with two dampers in it at the junction under the house. Now, it is like two systems, controled independently. Upstairs and downstairs are exactly what I want. On super hot days, my system isn't quite big enough to keep the whole house 69-70. In the evening I'll turn the downstairs thermostat up to 73, that shuts the cool air off to downstairs, and blows it all upstairs, cools the bedrooms down pretty quickly. I don't remember the cost, it was 12 years ago, but it took two guys 1/2 day. The damper box doesn't look very expensive, one thermostat @ $175, and the control panel that both thermostats now run to which in run controls the dampers cost $250-300 when I had to replace it a couple years ago. With labor, today's prices, a guy still should be in the 1500-2k range ?

It's pretty rare now-a-days that a system is duct properly and in much a manner that it is as easy as that to separate the upstairs and down stairs

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[Riverbound]

There are many routes we can go.

The best would be doing a multi zone VrV system. This is the most efficient and most precise with temp and humidity control.

traditional multi stage give really good temp and humidity control and a good balance of efficiency and cost these can ask be zoned to heat/cool different area and the home.

Than you have single stage which is similar to what you have now.

Now just some questions.
-how bad are your utility bills?
-what complaints do you have with your current system?
-how precise do you want the temperature in the home.
-how do you use the system currently?
-if it were free to heat/cool your home how would you use it?
-when you go to a hotel what temperature do you set the thermostat at?

-what rooms heat/cool the worst?
- any breathing or allergie issues in home?

Keep in mind I spend generally 1.5-2 hours minimum in a home when working with a client and building them exactly what they want. Those that have worked with me, know I won’t leave until I have built the perfect option and made it work intheir budget.

 

[Riverbound]

My house and situation sounds very similar. 2500 Sq ft two story, one thermostat downstairs. We'd have it 64 & freezing downstairs in the evening, trying to get it below 75 upstairs so we could be comfortable at bedtime. The air handler is in the garage, then the "main duct" goes under the house, then splits, one upstairs, one down. I just had the hvac guys put a thermostat upstairs, and then a box with two dampers in it at the junction under the house. Now, it is like two systems, controled independently. Upstairs and downstairs are exactly what I want. On super hot days, my system isn't quite big enough to keep the whole house 69-70. In the evening I'll turn the downstairs thermostat up to 73, that shuts the cool air off to downstairs, and blows it all upstairs, cools the bedrooms down pretty quickly. I don't remember the cost, it was 12 years ago, but it took two guys 1/2 day. The damper box doesn't look very expensive, one thermostat @ $175, and the control panel that both thermostats now run to which in run controls the dampers cost $250-300 when I had to replace it a couple years ago. With labor, today's prices, a guy still should be in the 1500-2k range ?

your average 2-3 zone system nowadays Would run in the $4k range. To remain title 24 compliant. (Done to code)

 

[PlumLoco]

My house is 125 yrs old. It will be around 86-89 deg. tonight at 11 pm when we are ready to go to bed. A single register in the floor and under the bed. Sigh, maybe one day . . .

 

[Kbach]

Now just some questions.
-how bad are your utility bills?
-what complaints do you have with your current system?
-how precise do you want the temperature in the home.
-how do you use the system currently?
-if it were free to heat/cool your home how would you use it?
-when you go to a hotel what temperature do you set the thermostat at?

-what rooms heat/cool the worst?
- any breathing or allergie issues in home?

Keep in mind I spend generally 1.5-2 hours minimum in a home when working with a client and building them exactly what they want. Those that have worked with me, know I won’t leave until I have built the perfect option and made it work intheir budget.

Hey @Riverbound finally had a minute to reply. Thanks again for the input on this - we appreciate it.

-how bad are your utility bills? Honestly not bad. I’m pretty militant with lights and such. Power bill is an average of $125/mo most of the year and then maybe $225 for few of the hot months.
-what complaints do you have with your current system? Doesn’t keep upstairs cool enough/large temp difference on cooling. Blower/vent noise downstairs is loud.
-how precise do you want the temperature in the home. Not concerned about precise, would just like more cooling capacity upstairs without having to freeze out the first floor.
-how do you use the system currently? Set it to 77/78 usually and let it run. Fan is on auto. I’ve tried fan always on but it’s just too loud and annoying downstairs. At night it cools down out here so we turn it off and open windows. We have a small whole house fan that we use in the evening that shuts at midnight. Makes a big difference. I like having outside air in at night, not a fan of having the AC on at night.
-if it were free to heat/cool your home how would you use it? Honestly not much different – maybe 76/77 downstairs and would be happy with a consistent 77/78 upstairs. We’re pretty easy going.
-when you go to a hotel what temperature do you set the thermostat at? Don’t do hotels much but I would say 76.

Realistically we don't need a state of the art system, really just something that has a better balance of up/downstairs.

 

[Riverbound]

Hey @Riverbound finally had a minute to reply. Thanks again for the input on this - we appreciate it.

-how bad are your utility bills? Honestly not bad. I’m pretty militant with lights and such. Power bill is an average of $125/mo most of the year and then maybe $225 for few of the hot months.
-what complaints do you have with your current system? Doesn’t keep upstairs cool enough/large temp difference on cooling. Blower/vent noise downstairs is loud.
-how precise do you want the temperature in the home. Not concerned about precise, would just like more cooling capacity upstairs without having to freeze out the first floor.
-how do you use the system currently? Set it to 77/78 usually and let it run. Fan is on auto. I’ve tried fan always on but it’s just too loud and annoying downstairs. At night it cools down out here so we turn it off and open windows. We have a small whole house fan that we use in the evening that shuts at midnight. Makes a big difference. I like having outside air in at night, not a fan of having the AC on at night.
-if it were free to heat/cool your home how would you use it? Honestly not much different – maybe 76/77 downstairs and would be happy with a consistent 77/78 upstairs. We’re pretty easy going.
-when you go to a hotel what temperature do you set the thermostat at? Don’t do hotels much but I would say 76.

Realistically we don't need a state of the art system, really just something that has a better balance of up/downstairs.

Based on those answers I would say you wound be very happy with a traditional system with new duct work and relocating the furnace to the attic. This will get the return up stairs and drastically better the temp difference between up and downstairs.
Running the fan in “on” helps even better aid most of today’s furnaces have either ECM or variable speed Blowers which are really quiet.

 

[McKay]

VRV if you have access.

One thing we did a few years ago was just added a 1.5ton mini to our bedroom. Our 3 conventional systems in the house had no trouble keeping up but we like to sleep cold and it just did not make sense to keep all the rest of the main floor that cold just for the nights. Got a good name brand system for about $1250 bucks and installed it myself. We seen immediately a $150 savings a month as we just leave the rest of the house at 72-73 and cool just our bedroom now to 67 at night.

Did a 2 ton unit in a buddies master bedroom about 2 years ago. They wish they would have done it a decade earlier when they moved in.

 

[Riverbound]

VRV if you have access.

One thing we did a few years ago was just added a 1.5ton mini to our bedroom. Our 3 conventional systems in the house had no trouble keeping up but we like to sleep cold and it just did not make sense to keep all the rest of the main floor that cold just for the nights. Got a good name brand system for about $1250 bucks and installed it myself. We seen immediately a $150 savings a month as we just leave the rest of the house at 72-73 and cool just our bedroom now to 67 at night.

Did a 2 ton unit in a buddies master bedroom about 2 years ago. They wish they would have done it a decade earlier when they moved in.

Sounds like mini splits. VRV is a whole different animal. And most definitely can’t be purchased for those prices. Mini split…..yes.

 

[Bobby V]

Running the fan in “on” helps even better aid most of today’s furnaces have either ECM or variable speed Blowers which are really quiet.

Run the fan with the AC or just the fan? My AC unit is about 7 years old.

 

[Riverbound]

Run the fan with the AC or just the fan? My AC unit is about 7 years old.

you might not have the ECM motor at that age.
But go to your thermostat and set the fan from “auto” which only runs fan when there’s a need for cooling/heating to “ON” which will constantly run the fan circulating the air in the house “blending” air in the home and lessening hot/cold spots. If you have a “circulate” mode then it will run the fan every 15 minutes for like 5 minutes instead of 24/7.
My fan runs 24/7 because I also have air purifiers and large capacity filters so not only is my house super comfortable but my air is getting filtered and purified 24/7.

 

[702sandman]

This is a simple fix …add a zone system for the upstairs downstairs issues, turn up downstairs stat at night and lower the upper stat when you go to bed and your redirecting more air to the upstairs ductwork. Then spend some money on a nice 16+ seer Trane system and be done with it.

 

[Riverbound]

This is a simple fix …add a zone system for the upstairs downstairs issues, turn up downstairs stat at night and lower the upper stat when you go to bed and your redirecting more air to the upstairs ductwork. Then spend some money on a nice 16+ seer Trane system and be done with it.

It’s a little more than just adding a zoning system to do it the right way. In order for it to work right you will have to have at least a 2 stage system. To operate at half capacity when only half the house is calling for heat/cool. Secondly you wound almost certainly need to reduct the house to make sure it’s all correct and to work properly with the zoning systems.
Lastly, if he wants to deal with coil leaks and poor service he should definitely go with Trane

 

[McKay]

Sounds like mini splits. VRV is a whole different animal. And most definitely can’t be purchased for those prices. Mini split…..yes.

I know exactly what a VRV is. Have a VRV system in my shop. This unit in my bedroom was a just a single stand alone mini split.

 

[702sandman]

It’s a little more than just adding a zoning system to do it the right way. In order for it to work right you will have to have at least a 2 stage system. To operate at half capacity when only half the house is calling for heat/cool. Secondly you wound almost certainly need to reduct the house to make sure it’s all correct and to work properly with the zoning systems.
Lastly, if he wants to deal with coil leaks and poor service he should definitely go with Trane

why do you need a 2 stage system ? from What I heard he’s looking For a simple fix that won’t break the bank… that’s what the bypass damper is for to relieve excess pressure on the blower when one zone is turned off or satisfied and we could bleed more if needed. And as far as ducting your probably feeding the downstairs with a couple supplies that would get dampers and a wireless stat for down stairs, if you couldn’t fish a wire. Maybe in California things are different but here in vegas I’ve been doing this for 28 years and have a great track record With zone systems. As far as Trane is concerned I have had great results with their units, IF we have a problem Ferguson our supplier stands behind it 100% since we are a Trane TCS dealer. But what do I know I’m just a duct installer

 

[Flying_Lavey]

why do you need a 2 stage system ? from What I heard he’s looking For a simple fix that won’t break the bank… that’s what the bypass damper is for to relieve excess pressure on the blower when one zone is turned off or satisfied and we could bleed more if needed. And as far as ducting your probably feeding the downstairs with a couple supplies that would get dampers and a wireless stat for down stairs, if you couldn’t fish a wire. Maybe in California things are different but here in vegas I’ve been doing this for 28 years and have a great track record With zone systems. As far as Trane is concerned I have had great results with their units, IF we have a problem Ferguson our supplier stands behind it 100% since we are a Trane TCS dealer. But what do I know I’m just a duct installer [emoji2373][emoji23][emoji23]

Bypasses are not Title 24 compliant in California anymore. Either have to dump a bypass like pressure relief into a common area or a staged/variable capacity system.

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[Riverbound]

why do you need a 2 stage system ? from What I heard he’s looking For a simple fix that won’t break the bank… that’s what the bypass damper is for to relieve excess pressure on the blower when one zone is turned off or satisfied and we could bleed more if needed. And as far as ducting your probably feeding the downstairs with a couple supplies that would get dampers and a wireless stat for down stairs, if you couldn’t fish a wire. Maybe in California things are different but here in vegas I’ve been doing this for 28 years and have a great track record With zone systems. As far as Trane is concerned I have had great results with their units, IF we have a problem Ferguson our supplier stands behind it 100% since we are a Trane TCS dealer. But what do I know I’m just a duct installer

Short answer you need the system to be able to drop capacity so the coil doesn’t get too Cold and cause liquid refrigerant going back to the compressor. Severely shortening the life of the system.
Yes people have put zoning on single stage for many many years but it was wrong to do it the way it was done. If the m system was designed with a dump zone or bleed off into the home somewhere it can be done. But doing a bypass damper into the return is the wrong way and causes damage to the system.

I joke on brands as the AC brand conversation is the same as truck brand conversation……it’s all the same shit.

 

[OCMerrill]

I joke on brands as the AC brand conversation is the same as truck brand conversation……it’s all the same shit.

Many companies are parent owned fully or partially by carrier anyway.

 

[Riverbound]

Many companies are parent owned fully or partially by carrier anyway.

There are only a few manufacturers of components. Thousands of Brands , the installation is far more important than the name on the box.