WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

Tales Of A Mercenary Mechanic

monkeyswrench

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I got home from the river last night, and went to town. Was just going to get started...ended up gutting it like a fish
20210726_235833.jpg

20210726_235833.jpg

So, that was interesting. It's a slanted configuration, means no normal jack will support it well, and I feel no need to make Daihatsu tool#xxxx. Screw that.
20210727_163640.jpg

Drill some extra holes in the 1/2 inch plate back of a cheapie stand, not balanced, but not real heavy to spin either.
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Hard to see in this pic, but light scoring and some rust colored pitting...not bad enough to catch a finger nail, but not good either. A light hone and new rings and that should shape up nice.
20210727_231051.jpg

Big valves for a tiny motor. On the right, that elongated passage is the oil return to the pan from the valve train. I really think this was the main issue. The head gasket seemed to be "weak" where the the fire rings for the two cylinders meet, and continuing down to roughly the 2 o'clock position on the lower cylinder. This would explain the smoking, as on intake it may draw oil in, and compression would pressurize the crankcase.

I'll know more tomorrow after things a cleaned up a bit more.
 

monkeyswrench

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One of thing I've always looked at, aside from the symptoms, is in what manner that symptoms occured. Your situation came on rather suddenly. A piston ring isn't gonna stick all of a sudden, and a cylinder isn't gonna wear out all of a sudden. A PCV valve can fail all of a sudden though. Keep that in the back of your head as you form your diagnostic plan. Is oil coming past the rings (unlikely) or is oil getting dumped back into the intake (much more likely given the instant onset). Put a catch can on it and try it again....either excessive cylinder pressure, which can't really come on that quick unless you've got a hole in the piston, but you'd have recognized that before you saw the smoke....or something in the vent system.
Seen pcv issues with lots of Ford mod motors. Even an LS...but this thing has the old school vent hose to the air cleaner. Even unhooked it to see if it was drawing though the baffle. This was more of a serious positive crank case pressure issue. Pretty goofy.
 

monkeyswrench

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Looks like we are under way! 😍
Yep, I'll have more info later, when the chambers are cleaned up and the piston tops are clean. The bearings actually look surprisingly good consider it's roughly two hamster wheels propelling this thing 12k miles.
 

monkeyswrench

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Well, stripped the crank, counter shafts and both front and rear extensions. Before parts can be ordered, needed to see if the cylinders would clean up. They actually did quite well.
20210729_000538.jpg

Cleaned up the pistons, to verify they were standard bore. Had to look in the book, but both were within the parameters given in the shop manual.
20210729_002254.jpg

Yes, luckily Dave had an original, 1978 Daihatsu S60 book...probably good, as the thing has a timing belt, two gear driven counter balance shafts and a chain driven oil pump...a lot going on in that small package.

After the block stuff, moved on to the cylinder head. Clean and inspect deal. I had noticed some corrosion/ electrolysis. There were some obvious signs around the water jackets, but 40 year old aluminum will to that. This caught me odd though...
20210729_000732.jpg

The front port, at about the 6 o'clock position, has a good size chunk missing. At first I thought it was a poor casting, as there are a few issues. Now, take this into account when you see the next pic: the head has been sitting inverted for 24+hrs. There is no coolant visible within the head...
20210729_000816.jpg

At the end of my pointer there, you can see a few green dots. Those would be coolant...and they weren't there last night. Between the porosity of the casting, and the electrolysis inherent to older motors...mixed with the use of water, I got some issues. The issue is in the worst possible area for accessibility for repair. Going to make some calls, and see if I can find a head...bare or complete.

Well, that's the current dilemma...
 

monkeyswrench

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Well, the search for a vintage 70's Daihatsu 2 cylinder head wasn't fruitless, but not exactly bountiful either. After calls and emails, I was able to locate 2 used head assemblies. Neither were stateside, and only one seemed like they would warranty a used item.
Plan B: I am not that skilled in aluminum repair. Old, oxidized castings are difficult for most welders, and I'm not that good anyway...but I "gotta guy". I took the head, complete and filthy, to a shop out here. "Bobby's Repair". Bobby makes radiators and has a couple guys working for him doing general repair. He's also an ex-aerospace kind of welder. He's salvaged some heads for me in the past, but from valve and piston damage...not electrolysis.

I left the head grungy, because I wanted him to see what solvents to best clean and not contaminate the surface. Bobby looked at it, and doesn't think it should be an issue at all! So, I'll strip it down tomorrow, wash the bejezus out of it, and then bead blast the problematic port. After the weld is complete, Bobby will pressure check the head and make sure all is good.

Bonus, this will be a fraction of the cost of a questionable replacement, or recovering.

On another note of weirdness around the monkey farm, did axle bearings on a Bobcat last week...they suck.
20210803_140454.jpg

The wheel hubs are wedge mated taper fit. I used the the biggest puller known, and a giant rosebud torch...the hub laughed at me. We got medieval on it's ass! Two 20ton bottle jacks, with the puller and torch...that did it!
20210806_132103.jpg

Lots of rust, and bearings in pieces...customer just wanted a grease seal changed because it was leaking. Well, the seal was junk because the axle was no longer centered in the bearing race. No pics of race removal...was too busy spewing profanity to take pics. That was a lot of swings with a single jack...each one seized, needed to be cut and split.
 

Wedgy

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Hard core! Way to stay with it. With this as inspiration, the U joints in the B Van driveline don't stand a chance at defiance MW!!
 

lbhsbz

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Well, stripped the crank, counter shafts and both front and rear extensions. Before parts can be ordered, needed to see if the cylinders would clean up. They actually did quite well. View attachment 1031043
Cleaned up the pistons, to verify they were standard bore. Had to look in the book, but both were within the parameters given in the shop manual. View attachment 1031044
Yes, luckily Dave had an original, 1978 Daihatsu S60 book...probably good, as the thing has a timing belt, two gear driven counter balance shafts and a chain driven oil pump...a lot going on in that small package.

After the block stuff, moved on to the cylinder head. Clean and inspect deal. I had noticed some corrosion/ electrolysis. There were some obvious signs around the water jackets, but 40 year old aluminum will to that. This caught me odd though... View attachment 1031045
The front port, at about the 6 o'clock position, has a good size chunk missing. At first I thought it was a poor casting, as there are a few issues. Now, take this into account when you see the next pic: the head has been sitting inverted for 24+hrs. There is no coolant visible within the head... View attachment 1031046
At the end of my pointer there, you can see a few green dots. Those would be coolant...and they weren't there last night. Between the porosity of the casting, and the electrolysis inherent to older motors...mixed with the use of water, I got some issues. The issue is in the worst possible area for accessibility for repair. Going to make some calls, and see if I can find a head...bare or complete.

Well, that's the current dilemma...

I fixed one like that with epoxy…I made a plate to seal off the deck surface and also blocked off the cooling passages…added a barbed fitting to one of the block off plates.

Mixed up some JB-weld, buttered it on the cleaned up repair area, and hooked up a vacuum pump for a bit….theory was to draw the epoxy through the hole that I couldn’t really see.

Evidently it worked because that car ran for another 10 years before my dad sold it.
 

monkeyswrench

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I fixed one like that with epoxy…I made a plate to seal off the deck surface and also blocked off the cooling passages…added a barbed fitting to one of the block off plates.

Mixed up some JB-weld, buttered it on the cleaned up repair area, and hooked up a vacuum pump for a bit….theory was to draw the epoxy through the hole that I couldn’t really see.

Evidently it worked because that car ran for another 10 years before my dad sold it.
My first thought was epoxy. Used MarineTex on some stuff before, and held up good. I was real hesitant to try it on this one though. My reasoning, right or wrong, the proximity to the exhaust port, and the porosity between the two effected areas. In my head, I worried the heat would cause the failure to come back. The other reason I had, it's not my car. If it were mine, it would be okay to pull the head later if needed. If it's someone else's, all I want them to do is check and change the oil occasionally...warranty work sucks.
 

monkeyswrench

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Vett your customers...


Well, no pics for this particular post. So, did a relatively big project, and a fair amount of work for a guy. Initial estimate was 2500, and that was given in writing with a list of all that was entailed. Car arrives, parts arrive...stuff arrives...and it is more than what was initially agreed upon...significantly more. Work is done, hours tallied and additional parts list and cost compiled...It ends up being 3768$.
Customer says he doesn't understand...we go over line items detailed that weren't even close to the original estimate. He then says he doesn't have that much...he only has the 2500! OK, I tell him I'll drop it significantly...to 3k, take the car, owe me 500. I need the spot in the shop. 5, FIVE weeks, and I got 300 yesterday.

....and then I hear he's shopping around for other people to work on his stuff. Now, I've had people badmouth me, but never my work. Curious how this is going to play out, and what's being said.

It was mentioned in another thread, it's ok to fire a customer. Well, I think this was a customer I shouldn't have "hired".
 

mash on it

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I never had that problem... But I would keep their car in jail. Owning a tow truck, suddenly you have tons of friends. They always wanted the 'friend' deal.

Sucks for sure. Better luck next time.

Dan'l
 

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It sounds exactly why I never do side jobs. For some reason if you're not working in a big shop people think you should work for pennies on the dollar.

The next time more parts show up than you agreed to... work out A new estimate before the wrenches get turned... Even with this there's no guarantee you'll get paid.
 

Wedgy

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MW, this happens often in construction. In Tile I'd have Customers ask why I was so much higher than other bids. "Show me the bid?"

In all cases, it was lacking items that I always included that were necessary for proper completion.

I find that some people don't understand that being a Trade Craftsman is a business like any other, and that we Owners don't work for wages. They just can't grasp the profit concept, even though you are I both know that In no way are we getting rich turning wrenches, or Setting Tile as A One Man show. I'd bid razor thin, less than 10%, and still get beat.

Customer for sure, should pay up, but hey, at least you are an honest man. And, you almost made wages! Could be worse. Next pitch!

I learned quick, never to sign work I'd hate myself for doing. 😆🤣😂😹

Never had a mark on my License.
But that California C54 license and Mechanics lien sure came in handy.
😆
 

monkeyswrench

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It's funny really. I've been messing with cars since I bought my first mustang in 1989...I was 12. Done a fair amount of stuff for a bunch of people, all types. Done stuff for lowriders and mini truckers, street racers, hot rodders...even Model T and Horseless Carriage Club people. Never had someone not pay for what work was done. I did find out though, this particular guy had taken a loan out to buy the car in question...never a good sign. I guess I've just been really lucky. Even with this guy, I had told him that the cost was going up, as the workload had increased. I think that's why I'm pissed, he never said anything. With construction, in my case roofing, the bid was the bid. It was pretty rare I'd show back up to a site and find another 400sqft popped up. I bid roofs like a geometric "Rainman". It was rare I'd come home with more than a bundle of shingles or a spare 1/2 role.
 

Wedgy

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Cutthroat business building out Southern California. Helluva ride. The Riverside County Block/Cement lot line wall requirement minted dozens, of Masonry Contractors. Fun during the booms, a bitch when it was slow. Things are different now.

From 1973, through 2010. From 1999, 11 years as an Apprenticeship Instructor. I concentrated mostly on remodels, from 1987, through 2004. Brandon hauled many a wheelie of mud for me, and was setting Tile on Saturdays as soon as he could hold 4 1/4 in his hands.

Just as I learned that Mechanicsville was not for me, 18, pulling motors second job, second shift, Brandon dropped out of the Apprenticeship and worked his way through The Cal State system. Earned his BA from CSU Northridge, in 2016
Smart kid.

Good Wrenching MW!
 

monkeyswrench

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Little project of weirdness I've been working on for a couple days now...toyhauler garage extension.

Guy had a 2 seat rear engine VW car for the past few years. Well, bought a Rzr 4seat turbo thing...no fit. Honestly, let the air out of the rear tires and slam the gate. Missed it by that much. Well, covid stupidity has jacked the prices of haulers, so he just wants the new car in the old trailer. They make kits, but they're about 2500$. I went on the intrawebs and did some looking.
Here's what I came up with.
20211011_151347.jpg

Removed the gate, and made a shelf extension out of 2x2 rectangular tubing.
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Here's an under shot. This trailer runs studs to hold the hinge. The bastards used carriage bolts, and then blocked them in with the floor framing. So, I cut access holes on the bottom, and bolted the shelf to the trailer. I ran nut/bolt combos from the hinge to the shelf.
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Here is the surround. Same 2x4 tube, miter cut at the top corners.
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Here's the shelf and hinge deal. The door sits inside the frame, with a flange around the perimeter.
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I used some brackets laying around, self tapped them into the door top to hold my new surround in place while I clamped it. Not real heavy, but awkward...94"x 96"...
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Here is the factory frame on the left, clamped to the new extension. I stitched it every 12" with the mig. Could have done access holes and through bolts, but this is what he wanted.
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Whole bunch of work to gain 4 inches! Never done this before, but maybe I'll get another toy hauler someday and put this info to use again.
 

Jay Dub

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Little project of weirdness I've been working on for a couple days now...toyhauler garage extension.

Guy had a 2 seat rear engine VW car for the past few years. Well, bought a Rzr 4seat turbo thing...no fit. Honestly, let the air out of the rear tires and slam the gate. Missed it by that much. Well, covid stupidity has jacked the prices of haulers, so he just wants the new car in the old trailer. They make kits, but they're about 2500$. I went on the intrawebs and did some looking.
Here's what I came up with. View attachment 1058161
Removed the gate, and made a shelf extension out of 2x2 rectangular tubing. View attachment 1058162
Here's an under shot. This trailer runs studs to hold the hinge. The bastards used carriage bolts, and then blocked them in with the floor framing. So, I cut access holes on the bottom, and bolted the shelf to the trailer. I ran nut/bolt combos from the hinge to the shelf. View attachment 1058163
Here is the surround. Same 2x4 tube, miter cut at the top corners. View attachment 1058164
Here's the shelf and hinge deal. The door sits inside the frame, with a flange around the perimeter. View attachment 1058165
I used some brackets laying around, self tapped them into the door top to hold my new surround in place while I clamped it. Not real heavy, but awkward...94"x 96"... View attachment 1058166
Here is the factory frame on the left, clamped to the new extension. I stitched it every 12" with the mig. Could have done access holes and through bolts, but this is what he wanted.
View attachment 1058168
View attachment 1058169
Whole bunch of work to gain 4 inches! Never done this before, but maybe I'll get another toy hauler someday and put this info to use again.
WOW. I like the ingenuity
 

monkeyswrench

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WOW. I like the ingenuity
Apparently this is an issue with the SxS people. With dune season here, this guy wanted it done. I found some SxS groups that had posted pics. A lot of them had metal bent up at a steel yard, but I thought the tube would be stronger. I can't take any credit...monkey see, monkey do. Others had the idea, and made stuff work.

Put the Rzr in today, and it fits! I think a 6" extension would have given a little more space though. 2" in front, 1 inch in rear. Had to space up the lower bunk. It didn't touch, but a bit too close for my liking.
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monkeyswrench

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Well, it's been a bit. Spent a few weeks last month helping my buddy pack and put stuff in storage. He decided the area has become too Californicated...and they offered him more than enough for his house. Sooo, I ended up with "stuff". Another 454, box of Holley carbs, another torch set, another wire feed...and a bunch more. Well, 2000sqft gets small in a hurry when you bring extra truckloads home.
20211006_222421.jpg

These are 5x10, Home Depot style. Adding sq feet on the cheap, still want to do a mezzanine up front of this.
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Mounted a bolt bin to the side, and decorated accordingly. Been finding homes for stuff. Half of the top shelf is emergency supplies. Out of sight, out of mind. Probably a solid 3 months worth of food and such for 5. The second shelf is shop stuff, intakes carbs...even the swamp cooler for the winter.

Found some stuff I forgot I had...need to build another Ls...
20211103_223100.jpg

I'll post more actual "work" related crap tomorrow...done some "farmtastic" repairs..
 

RichL

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Well, it's been a bit. Spent a few weeks last month helping my buddy pack and put stuff in storage. He decided the area has become too Californicated...and they offered him more than enough for his house. Sooo, I ended up with "stuff". Another 454, box of Holley carbs, another torch set, another wire feed...and a bunch more. Well, 2000sqft gets small in a hurry when you bring extra truckloads home. View attachment 1064681
These are 5x10, Home Depot style. Adding sq feet on the cheap, still want to do a mezzanine up front of this. View attachment 1064682
Mounted a bolt bin to the side, and decorated accordingly. Been finding homes for stuff. Half of the top shelf is emergency supplies. Out of sight, out of mind. Probably a solid 3 months worth of food and such for 5. The second shelf is shop stuff, intakes carbs...even the swamp cooler for the winter.

Found some stuff I forgot I had...need to build another Ls... View attachment 1064683
I'll post more actual "work" related crap tomorrow...done some "farmtastic" repairs..
So it looks like you've added rack storage. Cool.
 

monkeyswrench

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Ok, farm repair.. more of a necessary repair than farm I guess. Had an issue with a 2014 Dodge 3500 to fix. A guy I work for/with had one come in needing new pinion bearings. Heat, lube...prayer...all were tried. The bearings weren't giving up. Torch and a sledge to remove the pinion. Even with the nut, the threads mushroomed something fierce.

Calls were made, and one ring and pinion set (OEM) was located in the country. National backorder...900$ and change! Inflation and supply chain issues, welcome to Cuba.

So, went to work. First thing I did is take a large flat file, and start working the flared area round again. As it just started to polish the tops of the undamaged threads, I called it round.
20211026_095359.jpg

Then, matching the undamaged threads I used a thread file to start working new threads into the smooth area. The thread file won't cut like a die, but scribes it pretty deep. I then followed the new lines with a small triangle file. Then alternated between the two to verify and true up my threads. When I was pretty happy with the thread profile, I used a flapper wheel to dress the leading edge with a slight taper.
20211028_113531.jpg

Those are the four files I used. The bottom is a thread file...handy when you need it. That one has the most common 8 metric thread pitches.

I didn't take a pic of the truck, but mechanic was happy to not throw another 900 at a stupid job, and customer got new bearings.

All said and done, took me about 3 hours. Not cheap, but much cheaper, and didn't have to wait 3 days for the part.
 

monkeyswrench

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Now, farm type stuff. Lawn mower repair out here is a bit different. My "mower" is hitched to the back of a Massey tractor. It's old, but it's mine. Started mowing and it crapped out. Carb hadn't been touched in three years, so time for a cleaning.
20211023_112037.jpg

The "carb" kits are overpriced, two gaskets and a couple fiber washers. I have various size gasket and leather punches. Between them and a razor, I can cut the gaskets in about 10 minutes...it would take me 30 to get to Tractor Supply. I usually keep a few different rolls of gasket material on hand.

This here is proof you can buy tools, but have no business doing so...
20211022_104650.jpg

The guy replaced a u-joint, but must have lost the clip...decided a mig was handy. A 20$ u-joint cost a bit more. Drive shaft shop had to cut off the yoke, and put in a new one.

Oh yeah, also helped my neighbor put in his new lift. It's a beast! 27k with 22ft runways I believe.
20211101_161003.jpg

I get to use it if I need it, so that's cool. Someday I want to put up my 12k, but always something in the way!
 

monkeyswrench

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Been slacking off with updating stuff. It's a bit before 3am, and I'm waiting for my nose to quit bleeding...no time like the present to catch up.

Monkey Mover head was taken to the machine shop to press out the effected guide, and remove the valve seat. The damaged area was in the exhaust port, porosity/rot between water jacket and port. The damaged area was chopped open, to access the runner.

Welder did his job, and pressure tested. It still had a pressure leak. About this time, welder guy got sick. I never asked, but he was out for a week or so. When he came back, did some more. Held pressure now.

Last week I dropped the head off along with the parts to fit.
20211118_220647.jpg

No more holes!
 

DC-88

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Now, farm type stuff. Lawn mower repair out here is a bit different. My "mower" is hitched to the back of a Massey tractor. It's old, but it's mine. Started mowing and it crapped out. Carb hadn't been touched in three years, so time for a cleaning. View attachment 1064929
The "carb" kits are overpriced, two gaskets and a couple fiber washers. I have various size gasket and leather punches. Between them and a razor, I can cut the gaskets in about 10 minutes...it would take me 30 to get to Tractor Supply. I usually keep a few different rolls of gasket material on hand.

This here is proof you can buy tools, but have no business doing so...
View attachment 1064930
The guy replaced a u-joint, but must have lost the clip...decided a mig was handy. A 20$ u-joint cost a bit more. Drive shaft shop had to cut off the yoke, and put in a new one.

Oh yeah, also helped my neighbor put in his new lift. It's a beast! 27k with 22ft runways I believe. View attachment 1064931
I get to use it if I need it, so that's cool. Someday I want to put up my 12k, but always something in the way!
Banker insulation will have to come down to reality when Tru -team spreads itself wider throughout Az. Insulation is one of the few line items that we consistently pay substantially more for in the river valley area of Az. than on similar jobs in California .
 

monkeyswrench

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Banker insulation will have to come down to reality when Tru -team spreads itself wider throughout Az. Insulation is one of the few line items that we consistently pay substantially more for in the river valley area of Az. than on similar jobs in California .
Up here, Tru-Team and Banker are both pretty pricey...as in to the point I have gone back and forth about buying a rig! Hell, I've seen people up here pay 20k to do exterior walls and ceiling on a 2200sqft single level...with Yield Monster!
 

monkeyswrench

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Ok, a page or so back I had posted a pic I believe that was of a 34 coupe. Just over a year ago, I went to Cali, met up with my friend Bill and his son Mike. We piled in the Excursion, trailer in tow, and headed to Tujunga I believe. We dug out a bitchin find, a 3 window that was moved into that garage in the early 80s, from another garage where it had sat since around 1962. I drug it out here, and told Bill it would be a little bit before I could start on it. He was fine with that, was really just happy with the hunt and the find at the time...
Bill passed away a week and a half later 😢
Michael was tasked with all kinds of things, like funeral arrangements, and running the business he was now in charge of. We stayed in contact quite a bit, but I did not ask him about plans for the three window until spring. He said "do it, my Dad was excited about it, I'm excited about it too".
So, I started amassing some parts that were missing, some like he's teeth. I fired the motor dry, no water. That went well. Added water...that didn't go well. Lots of seepage between heads and block. Decided to pull the worse of the two...12hrs of fuckery. Studs were oxidized into the heads. Heads themselves, even if rotted, are rare early ones. That being the case, didn't want to Crack a fin.
20211122_085024.jpg

Head was corroded something fierce. Must be a trend? So, made the call to Mike. I have one of his motors here. Fresh stroker flathead, polished and cool. He said to swap in. Well, it's shiny, the car was oxidized, mismatched paint and primer on the front clip. The original intent was beater/as found. Well, the new motor blew that. Sooo...
20211126_234513.jpg

I started to cut and buff the 60 year old repaint of unknown origin. Stuff's hard, like trying to polish onyx! Needed to see how black it was, to see how best to match.
20211126_234445.jpg

This is the front left fender. The left side of pic was primer and bondo glaze, right was original paint. Feathered in after experimenting, wet sanded and buffed to hell. Pretty close I think. Cut and buffed the rest. Not a 100pt car, but way nicer than I thought was going to happen. Still needs touch up areas, but you get the general idea.
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As it stands right now, working on hood sides. They were nowhere to be found when we got the car. Pain in the ass, hard to sand and buff...not my area of expertise.
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Got the rh one pretty close. The good thing is, not trying to match a done show car, trying to match 60 years of sitting in a garage. Imperfections won't cost me points.
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Getting there quick. Mike wants it for the Grand National. They want to do an in memoriam display in the Suede Palace...
Bill was a good friend of mine, and I've known Mike since he was 12 or so...no pressure at all :oops:
20201021_171453.jpg

Starting point...
 

lenmann

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It's looking pretty damn good, what a find too. I just realized that the Bill and Mike you refer to are the Early Ford Store guys. I had a 36 3 window they helped me with a couple of years ago. Good people. I am always in awe of the barn finds they roll into the Palace every year. This year will be very special.

I will look for it at the GNRS.
 

RiverDave

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That paint came back a lot better than I thought it would!
 

monkeyswrench

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It's looking pretty damn good, what a find too. I just realized that the Bill and Mike you refer to are the Early Ford Store guys. I had a 36 3 window they helped me with a couple of years ago. Good people. I am always in awe of the barn finds they roll into the Palace every year. This year will be very special.

I will look for it at the GNRS.
I'd known Bill for 25 years. Bought parts from him, then worked with him...and drank a lot of beer with him.
Bill and Mike both shared the love of the cars. May make some money doing it, but more about the cars than the money...
Top secret, but Mike just got a couple barn finds...
 

redone76

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I'd known Bill for 25 years. Bought parts from him, then worked with him...and drank a lot of beer with him.
Bill and Mike both shared the love of the cars. May make some money doing it, but more about the cars than the money...
Top secret, but Mike just got a couple barn finds...
I was in there a few weeks back getting parts for my ‘57 F350…forget how much of a museum it is in there!
 

monkeyswrench

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Ok, last night kind of mocked up the car. Cleaned up one running board, threw the radiator back in to support the hood and pinned the running board on with a few bolts...
20211128_234124.jpg

Here's a side by side of the paint as it was, and after some beating on.
20211128_222911.jpg
 

monkeyswrench

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Between getting the shop, the house and this Covid BS, still hustling. Anyone remember the song "16 tons"?
"St Peter don't you call me, cause I can't go, I owe my soul to company store"

It's either that, or "No Rest For The Wicked" I have too many irons in the fire, and things need getting done. This, and working on stuff is how I "self medicate". Not pushing long stretches, more like multiple short shifts.

So, yesterday I went and figured how to make the 49-53 motor work with a 32-48 intake and fuel pump. The later setup has a larger diameter pump rod, and the stand is taller. So had to measure the length needed, and check throw.
20211130_141923.jpg

Then I cut down the pump rod. These are like chromoly pushrods for a VW, on steroids. Probably .095 wall tubing with hardened tips pressed in. I cut the section out measured from below the upper tip, then removed the tip and pressed it back into the shortened tube.
20211130_142544.jpg
20211130_143454.jpg

Also, the tip needs to be dressed down slightly for the older fuel pump.
20211130_153121.jpg

Here's a side by side of the stock 32-48 on the left, and the modified 49-53 on the right. The lower portion goes through a bushing and rides on the cam. With the larger diameter, you can't run an early rod...not for very long at least.
 

monkeyswrench

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Here's another problem I had to solve. Later motors have the dipstick further back in the pan. With tube headers, you can usually make it work....This has stock 1934 manifolds. Between the steering box and the manifold, only one place for the dipstick, and it doesn't line up with pan.
20211201_113804.jpg

The tubes on these are about 1/2". The bottom threads into boss on the oil pan. I cut it off about an inch up. I looked around for some fairly heavy wall tubing, with bends. What you see is actually a small block Ford oil pump pickup, cut apart and welded. I used the tig to pretty much fusion weld it, hopefully keeping the inside pretty smooth.
20211201_221555.jpg

Now, no early Ford dipstick could make that bend. I cut the top of one off, and mated a cable to it. From the top side, everything looks as it should.
20211201_221744.jpg


Oh, and as a tie into the boating site this is....this motor would have been old school cracker box. Even a boat cast into the logo
20211201_221813.jpg
 
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monkeyswrench

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Do you know about Reds headers? They make flathead headers in Chiriaco.
I used to deal with "Red" from "Red's Headers" before he retired and sold the business. The guy at the Chiriaco summit bought the tooling I believe with the name, and been seeming to do pretty well. From what I heard, the guy's family has owned that property forever.
 

mjc

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I used to deal with "Red" from "Red's Headers" before he retired and sold the business. The guy at the Chiriaco summit bought the tooling I believe with the name, and been seeming to do pretty well. From what I heard, the guy's family has owned that property forever.
I never expected to find that kind of business out there.
 

monkeyswrench

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I never expected to find that kind of business out there.
The guy that owns Reds now had already been doing hot rod and resto work. From what I heard, he was doing fine with the existing businesses he owned out there, but likes the cars. Good for him! He kept a business from disappearing, is doing what he likes, and still has other income streams as well.
 

monkeyswrench

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I walked out to the shop on Friday...couldn't do a damn thing. Between my body and my brain, wasn't happening.
Saturday I took some measurements, and at least started whittling out a bracket I need to make. Turned a slug on the lathe. This will get a small plate welded to it, and will be for a "chatter rod". The later blocks weren't equipped with the casting to do so.
20211204_133416.jpg

This will make more sense when I come back to it. Wasn't feeling up to the following parts as of then.

Today, actually this evening, did a minor project. Most the Ford fuel pump stands were pot metal. I had an old school cast aluminum one. The filler on this application was usually bent forward, so the cap would clear the firewall. Well, old school guys would take a longer filler from a 28-31 model A, and press it in. So, I amassed some pieces, and decided to kind of polish the aluminum stand. I figure it will look good with all the other polished aluminum.
20211205_225404.jpg

Not a whole lot accomplished, but at least some.
 

RiverDave

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I totally get the body brain thing.. I dunno wtf I did but my left leg is more jacked up then my right leg for the last week and a half.. 😳. Makes it hard to get motivated.
 

monkeyswrench

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I totally get the body brain thing.. I dunno wtf I did but my left leg is more jacked up then my right leg for the last week and a half.. 😳. Makes it hard to get motivated.
Well, they aren't BSing about "covid brain". Kind of a serious funk. It's like that feeling a few beers in, right about the time you don't care, but know you should. In your case, you probably don't realize how much you "favor" one side over the other. It tends to stand out on uneven ground. You spent last weekend camping, just climbing the steps in the coach could throw stuff off.

Like you, I'm just kind of pissed. I have a lot to do, and my brain is telling hit it, but my body is telling me F' off. I don't think I've been shut down this long from being sick. It's been a week since I started showing symptoms, about 4 days that I've been pretty much worthless. Messes with your head some.
 

monkeyswrench

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Alright, started some yesterday by cleaning crap up, like putting tools away and such. Needed to clear my head as well, lots of little problems that need to be tended to. Started figuring what to do with wire looms the ignition. Technically, nothing bolts on. The 34 has different looms than a 42, which is what distributor the motor has. A 50, which is what the motor is, had none. Well crap. The previous setup was old chrome, with brackets for a 37. Still not really able to bolt on...but I think I can make new brackets.
20211213_225604.jpg

First step was to see how much I could revive 60-70 year old chrome. Haven't touched the left yet. These things are pretty rare, only used for 2 years, 90 years ago. I think they will add to the overall look if I can swing it.
After two hours, it looked pretty decent. So I laid it on the motor to compare to the "overall".
20211213_232814.jpg

Looks pretty good. Going to clean up the other one, and make some steel adapters to hold them on. Painted black, and the way the hood works, most people won't notice.
 

monkeyswrench

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Woo-hoo, minor progress. Tried the fan on and went "oops". Had to shorten the mounting stud a 1/4 inch, and replace the high crown nut with a hex nut...otherwise the fan would "self clearance". Fan is also an old chrome piece, probably from the same era. Cleaned it up too. Played hell going through belts...40 crank pulley, 37 waterpumps, 39 generator on an aftermarket intake...bolted to a 50 motor...and a 5/8ths belt for good measure!
20211214_223919.jpg

Tomorrow I'll hang the radiator, and let the profanity begin. The radiator holds the grille...10 body panels have to somehow fit to it...and somehow also have to fit the cowl body lines as well. Not the first one...done a bunch...but always suck to do.
 

monkeyswrench

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Really enjoy following your thread. Nice work.
Thank you. As I said in the beginning, nothing fancy like some of the guys do...seen some real talent, from promods and pro tourings to boats that have more paint and detail than art in a gallery. My stuff tends to be either redneck and RV, or old cars how they used to be. None of those require some of the big technical tools or skill. Basically fix it or put it back how it was.

Side note, in the house on RDP while the shop thaws! Went out at 8, and it was a bit cold. Snowed last night. Turned on the heater and came back in for a bit.
20211215_083831.jpg

That says 38! Sorry, has to be at least 50. I have insulated coveralls, but really don't feel like putting them on...that's why my wife bought me the heater last year🥰
 

monkeyswrench

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"Wyatt, I'm rollin'..."
Productive but ass kicker. Got enough hung on to see what needs doing, and it's a bunch. Right front needs to come up, left needs to go down...etc,etc.
But I have a baseline now.
20211215_142410.jpg

Had to do some trimming on the panel below the radiator. Hard to find an original, and this one appeared to be an early 33, and a 4 banger. So, trim to fit. Saw one of these on a jobsite, hvac guy had one for marking tin. 10$ at a supply house, handy as hell.
20211215_111353.jpg
20211215_111411.jpg

The black nob is a set, and has an edge beneath it that will guide against most stuff up to 3/8ths thick. The sheet metal screw at top is on a slider with measurements. Have some really nice machinist type one, marked to 64ths, but this one I keep on the brake and does the job!
 

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Ok, little how to crap from yesterday. Before I dropped the grille on, the grille lace had to be put on. Kind of wishful thinking, the grill should be off to do it, and I'm hoping it doesn't have to come back off. The lacing is a heavy woven stuff that keeps the sheet metal apart, and let's it move. It comes as a kit, one roll and a enough split rivets to attach it...no extras usually.
20211215_134439.jpg

I use a scratch awl, easier on the paws than a pic. Line up with the punched hole and work it through. On this part, I'd back it to not bend the piece...watch your fingers, it can get painful.
20211215_134858.jpg

The little split rivets look like this. I punch the hole, and insert the rivet. Then I use a standard, stubby, screw driver to spread the ends on the back side.
20211215_134748.jpg

I then use channel locks to press them flat. Different pliers for different stuff, this grill has a 1/4 inch lip to reach over. Ford probably had some specialty tool...I have a bunch of pliers.

This has to be done one at a time. If you do all the holes, and come back and do the rivets, it's pretty tough to keep it tight against the metal. And about the kits giving you just enough rivets...I usually plan to skip one on each side, in a straight area. This is incase they short me, or I screw one up.

Anyways, useless info for your mental roledex. Lunch break is over, back to it.
 

monkeyswrench

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On today's episode of stuff you'll never need to know: old car cowl lacing.
The stuff is a rope type, woven lining with a cotton core. It's round, and needs to be flattened. If you stick it on, the hood latches will squish it down with time and heat...I have neither. Sooo...
20211216_233238.jpg

20211216_233525.jpg

I squish the hell out of it! It gets the stuff about 3/16ths thinner, so I can get the hood to line up better from the get go.
The stuff has to have a hole punched in it too. It gets screws instead of rivets. That gives a new set of problems.
20211217_001540.jpg

Side story: around 10 years ago I got a call from my friend Rudy. He wanted to know if I could give him a hand. Turned out, his customer wanted his 33 in the Grand National. It was about this time of year, show's at the end of January. Rudy said sure, but it will cost you a bit more weekly for labor, as I'll have to get some help in here...well, that was me.
Flash forward to the night of roll in for the show. The hood was delivered from the painter that morning. Julian Alvarez was doing us a solid, cutting and buffing the car...lots of louvers! He gets almost done with the hood about 5. Rudy is on the passenger side, I'm on the driver's. We are putting on this same type of lacing. Rushing, as the car is supposed to be there by 7!
I'll be damned if I didn't slip the screwdriver, and nick the paint on this perfect car! Rudy looked across the cowl at me...car is on a trailer, strapped down and hitched up. The owner and his friends from the east coast are milling around, videoing and taking pics, inside and outside of the car and the shop. I about died!
Rudy calmly looked at me, kind of grinned, and said "Keep going, don't make a big deal...we'll fix it next week"
We put the hood on, and away it went. It was the last car to move into the main building, un-corked flathead, black paint and nickle plated stuff. Pretty awesome scene, rapping it up in the hall, just a handful of people. The car ended up taking 2nd place in "Modified Coupe" that year. Rudy's one of the most talented guys I know. That car wasn't even supposed to go, let alone be a contender.

Back to my project. Fiddled around with the grille, chin and a bunch of "stuff". I am fairly happy with how that is fitting. I threw the hood on, and a headlight and a horn...just for motivation. Needs some serious tweaking, but moving along.
20211217_003534.jpg

The hood is being held down by the latches, the center hinge retainers aren't in yet, but I wanted the latches to help kind of reshape the hood that has been pieced together, and squish the lacing. This was about 1am. Spent this morning running errands and such, going out to work now that I had lunch. Time to see what more damage I can do!
 

ltbaney1

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On today's episode of stuff you'll never need to know: old car cowl lacing.
The stuff is a rope type, woven lining with a cotton core. It's round, and needs to be flattened. If you stick it on, the hood latches will squish it down with time and heat...I have neither. Sooo... View attachment 1074792
View attachment 1074790
I squish the hell out of it! It gets the stuff about 3/16ths thinner, so I can get the hood to line up better from the get go.
The stuff has to have a hole punched in it too. It gets screws instead of rivets. That gives a new set of problems. View attachment 1074791
Side story: around 10 years ago I got a call from my friend Rudy. He wanted to know if I could give him a hand. Turned out, his customer wanted his 33 in the Grand National. It was about this time of year, show's at the end of January. Rudy said sure, but it will cost you a bit more weekly for labor, as I'll have to get some help in here...well, that was me.
Flash forward to the night of roll in for the show. The hood was delivered from the painter that morning. Julian Alvarez was doing us a solid, cutting and buffing the car...lots of louvers! He gets almost done with the hood about 5. Rudy is on the passenger side, I'm on the driver's. We are putting on this same type of lacing. Rushing, as the car is supposed to be there by 7!
I'll be damned if I didn't slip the screwdriver, and nick the paint on this perfect car! Rudy looked across the cowl at me...car is on a trailer, strapped down and hitched up. The owner and his friends from the east coast are milling around, videoing and taking pics, inside and outside of the car and the shop. I about died!
Rudy calmly looked at me, kind of grinned, and said "Keep going, don't make a big deal...we'll fix it next week"
We put the hood on, and away it went. It was the last car to move into the main building, un-corked flathead, black paint and nickle plated stuff. Pretty awesome scene, rapping it up in the hall, just a handful of people. The car ended up taking 2nd place in "Modified Coupe" that year. Rudy's one of the most talented guys I know. That car wasn't even supposed to go, let alone be a contender.

Back to my project. Fiddled around with the grille, chin and a bunch of "stuff". I am fairly happy with how that is fitting. I threw the hood on, and a headlight and a horn...just for motivation. Needs some serious tweaking, but moving along. View attachment 1074795
The hood is being held down by the latches, the center hinge retainers aren't in yet, but I wanted the latches to help kind of reshape the hood that has been pieced together, and squish the lacing. This was about 1am. Spent this morning running errands and such, going out to work now that I had lunch. Time to see what more damage I can do!
thats funny about Julian Alvarez, his brother Tiki helped us form the nose on our car, and i have been buying auto parts from his other brother bruce for close to 20 years. i miss Jules, he always had a smile on face and was happy to see you.
 

monkeyswrench

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thats funny about Julian Alvarez, his brother Tiki helped us form the nose on our car, and i have been buying auto parts from his other brother bruce for close to 20 years. i miss Jules, he always had a smile on face and was happy to see you.
Jules was a badass. Always had a smile with a "what's happening EZ money?" He gave me tips on buffing out old junk and loved the flatheads. He'd pull up in the 32 sedan delivery, pull dairy crates out with buffers and compounds, like it was just another work truck :oops:
I miss him.
 
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