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Fuel tank questions

SOCALCRICKETT

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I'm not going to spill the beans just yet, but have a new project boat I pick up next week. The issue is the boat is all original with fiberglass tanks, im needing to have new tanks done and I'm trying to get an idea on who to use and what to expect to pay for twin tanks for day a 21 schiada river cruiser


I have called KSH and Tank it already but until I have dimensions it's hard to quote out
 

Backlash

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I'm not going to spill the beans just yet, but have a new project boat I pick up next week. The issue is the boat is all original with fiberglass tanks, im needing to have new tanks done and I'm trying to get an idea on who to use and what to expect to pay for twin tanks for day a 21 schiada river cruiser


I have called KSH and Tank it already but until I have dimensions it's hard to quote out
Call Imco.
 

ltbaney1

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Berry's did the belly tank in my Howard. took him a drawing and he said no problem, said give me about 2 weeks. he called 4 days later and said come get it. for the exact amount quoted.

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Racey

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With today's aluminum prices i would guess between 1500 and 2000 for a pair of tanks.

Imco has patterns for 21RC
 

SOCALCRICKETT

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With today's aluminum prices i would guess between 1500 and 2000 for a pair of tanks.

Imco has patterns for 21RC

I know you have experience with those boats, most guys run 15 gal?
 

SOCALCRICKETT

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Should be closer to 30 per side. 22s are 37 per side iirc
That's what I was thinking, granted this is a low hp boat and fuel isn't going to be much of an issue, bit come a day I decide to throw some hp at it I'm going to need more fuel
 

Racey

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That's what I was thinking, granted this is a low hp boat and fuel isn't going to be much of an issue, bit come a day I decide to throw some hp at it I'm going to need more fuel

Yeah just run the standard size tank, Should have about 12" or so clearance to the transom, and end up forward near the front of the driver seat.

I highly recommend glassing bulkheads that connect from the floor to the hull side NOT JOINED TO THE DECK. and hang the tanks from the bulkheads.

When they build the tanks have them make the end caps about 1.5" tall, proud of the top of the tank, and you can drill through and hang each tank with a pair of 3/8" bolts on each end.
 

X Hoser

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That's what I was thinking, granted this is a low hp boat and fuel isn't going to be much of an issue, bit come a day I decide to throw some hp at it I'm going to need more fuel
And with this in mind have bungs welded into the top of the tanks for fuel return lines if you ever decide to go fuel injection. Easy to do now, not as easy later.
 

sintax

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IMCO as well, make sure your pickups and returns are proper sized (dont need returns? , do them anyway! ) Make sure you run the stainless captive rod pickups, not the toilet float arm ones (old gm style)
 

SOCALCRICKETT

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Yeah just run the standard size tank, Should have about 12" or so clearance to the transom, and end up forward near the front of the driver seat.

I highly recommend glassing bulkheads that connect from the floor to the hull side NOT JOINED TO THE DECK. and hang the tanks from the bulkheads.


That's what my glass said as well. Years ago I had a hallett vector that was a lighter lay up and the deck spidered where the bulkheads met the deck
 

lenmann

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The tanks I had IMCO build for my RC were $1753 pre Covid. That price included senders and extra fittings for return lines. I didn’t go the bulkhead mount route but built new strap mounts like the originals because I like the support they give the gunwales.

You will need to think about how to get the fills on the tanks lined up with the existing fuel cap holes in the hull. If you can get the hull to imco they will drill and weld the fills to match. In my case I had them build the tanks with no fills and I drilled and welded the fills my self.
 

DarkHorseRacing

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Tank It isn’t bad, they made some nice tanks for a 28 Eliminator for us and they came out good.

IMCO is the top dog though and we’ve also had a bunch of stuff done there as well.

If you go with big tanks sometimes anti slosh is a nice add as well.

Also include fuel tank vents as well as fills and returns. One time on an old boat I filled the tank that wasn’t vented to the brim cold then it got hot out and I noticed the tank leaking from the fill, popped the fuel fill open and got a geyser of fuel all over me. Vent would have helped.
 
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Flying_Lavey

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Tank It isn’t bad, they made some nice tanks for a 28 Eliminator for us and they came out good.

IMCO is the top dog though and we’ve also had a bunch of stuff done there as well.

If you go with big tanks sometimes anti slosh is a nice add as well.

Also include fuel tank vents as well as fills and returns. One time on an old boat I filled the tank that wasn’t vented to the brim cold then it got hot out and I noticed the tank leaking from the fill, popped the fuel fill open and got a geyser of fuel all over me. Vent would have helped.
How did it not vapor lock without vents? Gotta be able to pull air in to replace the fuel volume as it's consumed.
 

wzuber

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And with this in mind have bungs welded into the top of the tanks for fuel return lines if you ever decide to go fuel injection. Easy to do now, not as easy later.
Great suggestion.
Also large threaded bung to increase pick up tube size (1/2") for big h.p. fuel supply
 

sintax

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Tank It isn’t bad, they made some nice tanks for a 28 Eliminator for us and they came out good.

IMCO is the top dog though and we’ve also had a bunch of stuff done there as well.

If you go with big tanks sometimes anti slosh is a nice add as well.

Also include fuel tank vents as well as fills and returns. One time on an old boat I filled the tank that wasn’t vented to the brim cold then it got hot out and I noticed the tank leaking from the fill, popped the fuel fill open and got a geyser of fuel all over me. Vent would have helped.

yea, my setup is similar, which sucks.

My vents are built into my fillers, and its just a tiny hole, so found that one out when I parked the boat in the garage, with the nose down with full tanks. Next thing i know I walk out late in the day and I have fuel running own my bow
 

SOCALCRICKETT

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yea, my setup is similar, which sucks.

My vents are built into my fillers, and its just a tiny hole, so found that one out when I parked the boat in the garage, with the nose down with full tanks. Next thing i know I walk out late in the day and I have fuel running own my bow
I would think filler neck vents would be more prone to getting plugged by dust and debris
 

DarkHorseRacing

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How did it not vapor lock without vents? Gotta be able to pull air in to replace the fuel volume as it's consumed.
I assume the fill cap itself was vented somehow but apparently wasn’t doing the job. Or maybe was one way. It was those really old flip top fills.
 

DarkHorseRacing

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sintax

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These are the ones we had. Like I said, really old boat: https://www.hardin-marine.com/p-45888-2-stainless-steel-flip-top-fuel-fill-square-flange.aspx Its says they aren't vented. Now to Flying_Lavey's point, you need a vent to break vacuum, but honestly I never recall seeing one on the old boat. Maybe there was a pinhole somewhere but I dont recall.

So on those, there’s a tiny hole drilled at the top, right under the rubber o-ring that seals the cap
 
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