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18' Saber Jet Resto

Discussion in 'Boat Restorations and Upgrades' started by wzuber, Oct 12, 2019.

  1. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    Here's a couple pics of my client friends Saber Jet I'm doing some restoration on. This project will include complete BBF eng recolor & dress up, motor mount repair, pump rebuild, new floor and interior. Here"s a couple pics of it when he bought it a couple months ago. 190714_052959_10.jpeg 190714_052959_8.png 190714_052959_7.png 190714_052959_9.png
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2019
  2. rivrrts429

    rivrrts429 Arch Stanton...

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    That thing is rad. Lower river boat? Can’t recall ever seeing it.
     
  3. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    he bud how are ya'lls.. yes blyth area
     
  4. rivrrts429

    rivrrts429 Arch Stanton...

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    Doing good bud.

    Keep the pics coming. Looks like a fun project.
     
  5. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    [/ATTACH] 20190815_101004.jpg 20190812_082103.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2019
  6. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    Since I'm killin time waiting for some fiberglass cloth materials to be cut @ aircraft spruce I'll see if I can improve my pic posting from my phone 20190815_114949.jpg 20190815_100946.jpg
     
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  7. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    prepped and primed w/epoxy-ester primer. Finish color to be gloss black as shown with new polised Ford Racing valve covers, polished water pump cover, chrome headers and shotgun style carb. scoop. 20190817_100404.jpg 20190817_100356.jpg
     
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  8. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    back to posting. This deal came to me for a pump rebuild do to the failure of a thrust bearing seal failure. He only ran it for abt. 10 min. he said just to get back to camp. That short time put the impeller thru the wear ring into the suction piece ruining that too. Wear ring is fused to the impeller. [/ATTACH] 20190820_202715.jpg 20190820_202627.jpg
    It's a bummer because the impeller was in otherwise great shape. I 've seen much worse. One I did for friend just about wore the impeller shoulder clean off as well as damn near completely thru the suction housing. I'm surprised it continued to push his b.r. cruiser back to the docks. In both of these cases the owners were lucky though...no damage to the engine crankshaft and bearings. In both cases the drive line yoke were open ended and didn't allow the pump shaft to contact the closed end of the yoke.
    If you find yourself with thrust bearing problems just stop running and float or tow back. It will save you big $$$.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2019
  9. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    Here's the results of the bearing and shaft. As you can. see the balls are hanging out of the bearing shells. This next photo is of the slinger and inner bearing case semi fused together. This particular bearing case sleeved over the slinger about 1/4" by design. I had not seen one like this prior to this. Of course a new slinger and bearing were installed. 20190921_192740.jpg 20190921_192343.jpg 20190821_120503.jpg 20190921_192223.jpg
     
  10. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    I had another Berk. suction piece here so I sand blasted it clean in my blast cabinet and painted it gray to match the rest of the pump housing parts. 20190917_175847.jpg 20190921_203226.jpg
     

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  11. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    here's a couple pix of the motor mount in the hull before I removed it and weld-repaired it and stich welded other areas to insure it would stay put and make it a little more sturdy. In the first pic u can see the weld at the cross bar next to the main bracket. If you look below that you'll see a black spot between the gray squares. Thatxs where the previous owners peeps cut into the hull with a grinder blade while apparently doing that weld repair. Ixm always amazed at the hack work I see on these older boats from previous peeps/owners etc. In the seond pic if you look at that cross bar area again you will see where the corner of the 1/8" formed metal plate tore next to the weld area and is displaced/offset. This is why I felt it necessary to weld this bracket up in the manner I did. I also think I should probably glass in a bulk head at the front of the motor box to reduce the obvious flex in the hull tearing up the motor mount bracket. The OEM glass work in this hull is very nice tight clean lamination. The guys that replaced the stringers and re-glassed the motor box not so much. Very resin rich and sloppy w/ chunks of shit sticking up out of the surface to slice your hand while reaching under the eng. to clean or find that dropped part, tool etc. unbaliefable:( 20190816_193857.jpg 20190816_193922.jpg
     
  12. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    20190820_170725.jpg 20190820_170720.jpg motor mount cleaned, welded and ready to be sand blasted a bit before painting.
     
  13. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    f.glass bucket seat widening. A good bit more work time than originally perceived. If not on a budget replacing would b cheaper but I'm cheap so here we are. From covered to stripped, scraped, sanded, ground/shaped and covered with wax paper for release of filler laminate section. Filler laminate will consist of multiple layers of CSM and 1708 cloth. Seats will be finish laminated together 1 layer of 1708 inside and out when complete, very stout. The seat shells will be cut up the center line and a filler/spreader section will be glassed in the middle to widen the seats a couple inches. CSM cut to size and ready for laminating. 20191009_100047.jpg 20191015_100415.jpg 20191015_115356.jpg 20191015_115402.jpg
     
  14. wettrthebettr

    wettrthebettr Well-Known Member

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    BBF that's the first problem, found on road dead or first on race day. Looks good Warren, ya got all winter to work on it.
    Have you had a jet before? have fun with the resto.
     
  15. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    20191017_205501.jpg
    Hi Paul, this is a customers boat so it's going to b done n the coming weeks. I have a couple small construction jobs coming up that will disrupt the pace some but it will be done b4 thanks giving. Yes, I have hade jet boats for the past 37yrs. I currently have 4 with 1 more on the way and 1 Syndicate runner bottom v-drive. Here's a couple pics of my most recent 18' Advantage I'm building to go circle boat racing. I've cleaned/straighened the bottom up a bit, set this custom intake adapter and built the rail kit, eng. plates, transom plates, shot gel on the bottom and bilge areas etc. Here's a couple quick pics. It's a bit dirty at the moment from sitting while I've been working on other projects. 20191019_074218.jpg 20191017_205451.jpg
     
  16. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    20191016_124742.jpg 20191015_121628.jpg 20191015_130810.jpg I wasn't able to take any pics of the wet lamination due to resin messy hands but do have some of the cured piece. Here's a pic just after lamination with the wax paper covering it. Prior to laminating I contimplated gluing the wax paper to the seat to insure it stayed down but got lazy and didn't want to have clean the glue residue from the seat prior to widening and finish laminating so i just taped it down tight. That worked ok but the paper did wrinkle/draw up some from the wet resin so I layed wax paper over and taped it down tight as you can see in the pic. Again, it worked ok but still left some sanding/grinding to do to make the surface flat and ready for maninating. Additionally the wax from the paper needs to be removed with acetone at least prior to laminating. (Note- in all my work of this nature...sanding/grinding in prep. for laminating is done with (at minimum) 36 grit discs/paper etc., then blown clean of residue/dust, washed w/acetone then laminated...on everthing to be laminated..)
    Sorry, i had to edit the post w/ the enlarged photo of the finished lamination piece and it placed it first in the series so the pix are out of order to the text. The 1st. pic should b last. I gotta learn to preview b4 posting. haha
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2019
  17. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    20191016_124742.jpg The filler lamination with the surface wax paper removed. You can see how clear and tight the finished lamination is here. The lamination will be cut @ 5" wide and then down the middle on the ctr. line to give me 2 pieces @ 2-1/2" wide to b glassed into the center of the radius of the backrest of the seat. Then a new plywood seat bottom piece will b cut to the new inner dimension of the seat shell, shaped accordingly and then glassed into the seat creating a complete seat assembly. Lastly, the whole assem. will get wrapped in mat and a layer of cloth. These seats will b about bullet proof when done. 20191015_182600.jpg 20191015_182542.jpg
     
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  18. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    20191017_094200.jpg 20191017_094142.jpg
    A slight digression..
    here's a pic of the other seat stripped down to the shell prior to prepping for widening. All this residual foam, glue and shitty glass work will b removed via sanding/grinding w/24 & 36 grit fiber discs etc. to make a clean, flat surface ready to b glassed. This seat alone took about 2hrs. to prep. including removal of the wood seat base and grinding /cleaning all the shit glass work in the inside lower radius under the plywood, it was a real mess.
     
  19. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    20191016_124801.jpg 20191016_124755.jpg
    The first laminations of 1-1/2 oz mat didn't end up ass thick as the seat shell so I added some more material as seen layed out and ready for lamination in these photos. This is another layer of 1-1/2 oz mat and 2 layers of 1708 cloth. This brought the thickness up just right.
     
  20. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    moving on from the "fluff n glam" :rolleyes: portion of this resto....it's time to get into the real dirt work...the floor and more. 20190930_182511.jpg 20190930_182549.jpg As you can see in these pics the floor glass was failed/broke from the bilge to the toe board (aka forward bulk head) with the exception of about 15" on both sides up undrr the bow area and back from the T.K. approx. 12". The light weight cloth used to install the 1/2" plywood floor was insuficient for the amout of flex the hull has currently. I used a multi tool to cut the remaining cloth at the seam. The horrible freight unit works pretty good for stuff like this, significantly less dust and excellent depth cut control. Once the cut was complete I expected the floor would come right out but as it turned out it was screwed to a keel stringer so more work was required to complete removal.
     

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    Last edited: Oct 21, 2019
  21. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    20191009_153856.jpg 20191009_153917.jpg 20191009_153953.jpg
    When the floor ply resisted coming up after cutting the remaing cloth I realized it was screwed down. I ground the heavy dark surface resin to find some drywall screws with the heads full of resin si I took my cordless circular saw, set the depth to 1/2" and began cutting around the screw heads being carefull to cut just to the depth of the plywood or slightly less as I didn't want to cut into what I could only assume was the factory glassed in stringer. After cutting what I thought was all the screws areas I began pulling up on the floor again only to realize I didn't get them all. With the screws being small, rusty and the plwood being in rotted cond. I figured it would fail and just pull up with a little effort. Well it did pull up, with some of the glass tabing holding the stringer tearing away from both the 2x5 and the hull bottom. It would reveal the factory floor and "stringer" had been replaced by some clueless clowns and the hull and lumber was not properly prepped and glassed down and the cloth used to tab would just pull off by hand revealing the low quality workmanshit. The const. brackets and drywall screws were an "impressive" touch as well. :eek::rolleyes:
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2019
  22. wettrthebettr

    wettrthebettr Well-Known Member

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    Ya never know how other people do their repairs till you get into it, Looks like they took their boat to the right person for the resto.
     
  23. DRYHEAT

    DRYHEAT Well-Known Member

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    It wouldn’t surprise me if that is factory original work, a lot of shit was built in that era slap them together fast and sell them quick.:eek:
     
  24. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    this time yes, P.O. not so much. haha they even ran a few drywall screws thru the bottom of the boat.
     
  25. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    Actually the OEM glass work is as good as elimators, sanger etc. but it is a budget boat being it's only a quarter stringer boat hull. (sanger built some 18' jets that way too) The OEM glass tabs are good/tight, solid laminations it's just that whomever replaced the original tabbed in keel stringer and floor was clueless about proper laminating preparation and wasted a lot of over catalysed resin and made a big mess of it at that. chunks of cured resin likely from a container that flashed off stuck in the resin all over. As I'm grinding thru the shit resin 20191009_154313.jpg to get down to the OEM final lamination of woven roving the junk resin in areas is popping off of a shiny surface of resin n cloth showing it had no mechanical bond from sanding with an appropriet grit process. In this photo you can see how dark n brown the surface resin is. When I remove that stuff the OEM resin is greenish in color like most all lo buck general purpose polyester laminating resins commonly used in those days. 20191017_141845.jpg In this next pic. you can see the greenish hue of the surface with the woven roving pattern of the cloth exposed. The white-ness is the dust residue from grinding all that shit resin away with a 36 grit fiber disc, flap disk and cartridge roll to get down into the radius of the chine relief. This is very nasty, dusty, dirty and tedius work. You have to be extremely careful to just sand to the surface of the cloth and not go thru the roving. It's kind of a double egde sword because you need a good flat and properly abrated and KLEEEN surface to insure a solid bond of new material but as you flatten that roving surface your taking away some of the original strength of that lamination in the structure.
     
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  26. coolchange

    coolchange Lower level functionary

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    Cool thread. Neat boat.
    you sure took the long way around on those seats though. I can build a pair of buckets in about 2 hours.
     
  27. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    Oh, sure, now ya tell me!:p:D
    Ya, I was warned by my buddy doing all the vinyl work. I guess I had to find out for myself. I have well over 2 hrs. just in the prep time shown here. But hey, what would I do with the time I woulda saved?:rolleyes: Enjoy something else in my life? haha....look how hard I've worked:confused:
    I did at least learn a couple ways to build these type seats faster and better in this process. Before choosing this route I contemplated using 1/8" luan to create the backrest shape and glassing over that but then decided I would go this route. I can also see just using an frp type panel and cutting and shaping that, seems that would be pretty quick and easy without having a dedicated mold. How do you build yours? Separate question..have you used structural adhesives before such as hybrid urethane's or others?
     
  28. coolchange

    coolchange Lower level functionary

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    Don't think I was trying to bag on your seats, because I wasn't.
    There is a product called wiggle wood.
    It is 3 ply. The center ply is a veneer and is directional. The two outside plies are very open, maybe tropical wood. Almost looks like Palm.
    You can bend a 4 inch radius with it no problem.
    Since it is always trying to unwind it needs a former or clamp but allows you to shape the seat how you like.
    On the outside grain is opened up and soaks up resin like crazy.
    On the inside you can lay your CSM or whatever you using to make the structure.
    The flexibility comes in two directions, either lengthwise or widthwise.if you buy a sheet make sure they slide it off the rack onto another piece of wood, because if you crack the veneer it won't pull an even radius.
    I don't get into any exotic adhesives, I stick with waterproof glues, some PL depending on what I'm making, and the standard epoxies or esters.
     
  29. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    I didn't fee like you were bagging whatsoever, sorry if my reply came across that way. I was just trying to make fun of my time consuming choice. I appreciate your replies, shared info. and insights etc. I'll look up that wiggle wood product, thanks for the mention of it. A 4" radius would provide quite a few shape options, that's rather intriguing. The structural adhesive was suggested as a potential method of repairing the screw holes thru the bottom and I was just curious to see if you had any experience with them as I believe you do quite a bit or hull restorations, repairs etc. If I'm not mistaking you for someone else?
     
  30. coolchange

    coolchange Lower level functionary

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    For a while I built boat interiors and did canvas. Which led to floors etc sometimes.
    You're just filling screw holes I wouldn't worry about it being structural. Resin with maybe a little bit of cabosil so it would still fllow.
     
  31. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    that's pretty much what I did. I used a mixture of lam. resin, aerosil and 1/8" milled fibers. It worked out really well. I had to drill out the screws then used a counter sink to slightly clean up the edge of the holes. On the ext. I used some wax paper and taped it tight to the bottom of the hull leaving 2 sides open to release air then packed the holes. It left abt. a quarter sized dot on the bottom maybe a 1/32" thick. I'll sand it off and brush some gel coat on it and it will be good to go.
     

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