18'10" Lavey MOD VP project

[Backlash]

Upload some pics of the interior of the transom. Rigging and such. I'd like to see how you did everything.

 

[lbhsbz]

Upload some pics of the interior of the transom. Rigging and such. I'd like to see how you did everything.

As soon as I'm done. LOL. should be this week.

 

[Backlash]

Right on!! I'm way behind you with my pile! LMAO!! I'd like to see your rigging so I can start planning mine out.

 

[BONER]

These VP's give me Wood. Pun intended.

 

[lbhsbz]

Slow going, but that’s how it gets done right. I drilled the tunnel tab brace holes through the transom a couple nights ago...the overdrilled to 1/2”, mixed up some epoxy thickened with cab-o-sil and microfiber, then filled the holes. Re-drilled them this morning, cut some studs from 5/16” stainless allthread. Had to re-tap 2 of the bases and time Sert the other 2 because the threads were on an angle. Use pipe dope on the threads, clean off everything else, then 3M 4200 to seal to the hull, washers and flanged nylocs. 4 fasteners and holes, 5 hours all in. Lol.

 

[lbhsbz]

So...slight miscalculation (no calculation) on the width of the doubles up section of the transom...the inner tunnel tab braces land right on the transition, so I had to cast some thickened epoxy to add support for the nuts.


Trying to limit the amount of holes I put in the boat, I made this fuel filter mount that uses the 2 tunnel tab brace studs

Of course, the DRO on my mill refused to power up so that was about an hour lost...tmturned out to be a bad connection on the main board...

 

[lbhsbz]

spent 2 hours yesterday evening looking for the 1/4” screws I bought a year ago to make all my thru-tunnel mountings...took a break halfway through and cut out the glass/core where the bolts need to come through and made it it all glass from the gel to the interior...no more bolts pulling through wood.


Drilled and counterbored everything tonight and got the battery box bolted down. 3M sealant under the bolt heads, microfiber thickened epoxy for the bodywork, Teflon pipe dope for anti seize, and of course, flanged stainless nyloks and fender washers turned down to the appropriate diameter.

Scratched my head for a bit over the 4 wires outside of the merc harness and not involving the fuel level senders running down each side of the boat and then I saw the scotchlock on one of ‘em and remembered the previous owner hack-fuck had LED drain plugs in it...

Found the bilge power (I think) so that’ll get wired up tomorrow, along with terminating the trim/jack plate switches into the pumps, screw the seats back in, the windshield back on, and we should be ready to go. Leaving Thursday morning for 6 days...boat in tow, finished or not.

 

[lbhsbz]

And another fun fact...when boat is in the trailer properly, and the floater bar hooked to the bow eye...the tongue jack crank handle hits the boat. Per the previous owner..you gotta “push it over a bit”.

I have 16” of the same size square tube leftover from fixing my engine hoist after I bent the boom lifting my mill when I moved last year...so I may extend the tongue and fish-plate it if I have time.

 

[Backlash]

Slow going, but that’s how it gets done right. I drilled the tunnel tab brace holes through the transom a couple nights ago...the overdrilled to 1/2”, mixed up some epoxy thickened with cab-o-sil and microfiber, then filled the holes. Re-drilled them this morning, cut some studs from 5/16” stainless allthread. Had to re-tap 2 of the bases and time Sert the other 2 because the threads were on an angle. Use pipe dope on the threads, clean off everything else, then 3M 4200 to seal to the hull, washers and flanged nylocs. 4 fasteners and holes, 5 hours all in. Lol.

Keep at it man!! Slow and steady! I've got a ways to go to catch up with you. I just put another bulkhead in this week and have a ton of glass work still left to do. I know what you mean with the tabbing making the surfaces uneven. I'm trying to keep everything clean and ground as flat as possible so as to avoid that same problem.

 

[lbhsbz]

Keep at it man!! Slow and steady! I've got a ways to go to catch up with you. I just put another bulkhead in this week and have a ton of glass work still left to do. I know what you mean with the tabbing making the surfaces uneven. I'm trying to keep everything clean and ground as flat as possible so as to avoid that same problem.

I ended up having to do some "spotfacing" over not flat surfaces and what I found that worked very well was a simple die grinder stone. Whenever I buy die grinders at harbor freight half of 'em come with a handful of stones. I found one that looked like a 3/4" round by about 1/2" tall disc. With a straight, 45°, and 90° die grinder, I could get just about everywhere I needed to and the stone cut like butter to give me nice flat surfaces for the washers/nuts.