WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

1979 Schiada RC, The Boss

lenmann

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Next steps involved sanding the flow coat layers to get to a smooth surface suitable for the final gelcoat.

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Once that was finished up I was able to set the hatch back in place and build the back seat matching the shape of the hatch leading edge The upholstery guys tell me the seat backs can flex and break under acceleration so I built up the top edge of the seat back with 3 layers of ¾” ply to reinforce it. The back of the seat got a layer of 1708 and several flow coats as a base for the gelcoat.

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I decided that the hatch and seat would be a good project to try shooting multi-color gelcoat for the first time. They are small enough I could move them around easily and they would not require big batches of gelcoat making the spray process a little more manageable. As seen elsewhere in this thread shot the bottom of the boat in a single color gelcoat and I have painted a number of cars over the years so I wasn’t heading into this with zero experience. Like lots of inmates I follow the adventures @Gelcoater religiously and re-read his Gelcoat 101 and 102 threads in preparation. I was feeling like I had a pretty good handle on the process and was ready to give inlaid stripes a try.

There are several key differences in shooting paint and gelcoat. Gel has to applied in a thick layer, .020-.025” thick because it needs mass to cure and enough thickness that it can be sanded and polished after it cures. Gel starts to cure in roughly 18 minutes after being catalyzed making the working window quite small when you take into account mixing time, filling the gun, spray out time (multiple coats), gun clean up time, and time to pull the tape and masking.

My plan was to match the stripe scheme that Poncho laid down on the inside of the transom: an Iridium Gray field with a 1” wide Electric Blue stripe bordered with two ¼” wide Crimson Red pin stripes. I used fresh RevChem DuraKote marine gelcoat and to aid in spray ability I thinned each batch 30% with Duratec Clear High Gloss Additive.

My first spray out was the gray field on the back of the seat. Overall it went pretty well I thought. The ¼’ fineline tape pulled cleanly and although there were some minor rough edges but I felt they would be “buried” in the red gel and wouldn’t be a big problem. At this point was feeling pretty good.

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My second spray was the red pins. My plan all along was to spray each subsequent color over the previous with the expectation that the excess would all be sanded off in the end revealing the inlaid stripes. This turned out to be a bad choice. I should have waited a day and masked off the grey before spraying the red, and then subsequently the blue. Mistake #1. The red sprayed out fine but I ended up having much more trouble gauging when the gelcoat had gelled enough to be able to pull the tape cleanly. I pulled a small area and the adjacent gel drooped into the are that was going to be blue. Then I ended up waiting too long and the tape pulled up some of the red gel with. Mistake #2.

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The screw ups were in an area that would be pretty hard to see so I proceeded to shoot the blue stripe. The good news is there wasn’t any de-masking left to do! The bad news is the Electric Blue gel doesn’t “hide” very well as there isn’t a lot of pigment in it. That coupled with the 30% Clear made it worse. You can see in the pics how transparent it is and how you can see the light color of the plywood underneath. I should have sprayed a darker shade base coat under the blue first. Mistake #3.

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With all of the colors sprayed, I waited a day for full cure, and started sanding the surplus blue and red gelcoat off down the same level as the gray. Because each layer of gel is about .025” thick I need to sand almost a 1/16” off to level everything out and I have to be really careful not to sand too much. Remember Mistake #1? If I had masked around each subsequent color this would be much easier and much less sensitive to sand through. As it happened I did sand thought the blue up near the top of the seat back. Mistake #4, thanks to mistakes #1 and #3. Compounding mistakes, wonderful...

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OK, lots of learning. This stuff definitely isn’t as easy as it looks on the internet. It’s very technique sensitive and there appears to be a big learning curve that has to be conquered the hard way. Grrrr.

Remember a couple of posts ago when I said I had a date with the upholstery shop? Well by now I have rescheduled once and the new date is coming up fast. I need to get in there before the spring rush and my window of opportunity is closing. Rather than screw around some more on the learning curve I threw in the towel (for now) and decided to call in a professional.

My first try was Poncho but he is slammed with other inmates boats. I pinged @Boat211 to see if he knew anyone local that was good and he reminded me that @Orangegazm owns Smooth As Glass not far from Sacramento. I called Jeff and he said he could turn them quick if I brought them down right away so off to Riverbank I went.

The end result is beautiful, clearly the guys at Smooth As Glass have mastered the art. Me, I am still a work in progress. Next time I will try to learn on something that doesn't have a deadline.

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Ready for upholstery.
 

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HydroSkreamin

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Lenmann, even though you had your 4 learning points, I commend you on even trying. You did your homework, but it's hard to get results like guys that do it for a living. They know ALL of the tricks, and even sometimes they have a bad day.

Very nice work!
 

lenmann

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While the hatch was off at gelcoat I needed to figure out how to rig up a bilge fan. When the boat was built it had chrome clamshell vents on each side of the gunwales. Early on I had thought about re-chroming and re-using the original clamshells and flip top gas caps but ended up really liking how clean the top of the gunwales looked without all that stuff and filled the holes.

So now I needed to figure out a new way to vent the bilge fan exhaust and mount a couple of grab handles so the wife and I can climb back in the boat on those hot days at the lake. The traditional approach would be to call up Marine Industries West and order up a set of anodized aluminum grab handles with vent plates, and mount them across the top of the transom.

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MWI makes great stuff but with all the polished stainless on the back of the boat I felt like they would look out of place. I also really didn’t like the way the handles stick up at 90 degrees to the mounting surface, they don’t really flow with the lines of the boat. I ended up designing a set of handles that had angled mounting surfaces so they mounted horizontally and parallel to the long axis of the hull. I followed the same design theme I used on the cavitation transom blocks incorporating a 7 degree draft angle around the midline to make them look like could have been forged instead of just a billet piece.

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On the vent plates I wanted something a little different than the traditional slotted approach and fooled around in CAD with some different patterns, shapes, and sizes. Using the 3d printer I was able to quickly test different shapes and sizes of back up plates and settled on a relatively small plate with oval holes.

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The fan I am using is from Chill Out Industries and is normally used to cool brakes on race cars. It’s identical to the marine versions from Attwood except it’s black instead of white, ignition protected, and matches all the Attwood specs. The fan uses 3” hose and because my handle/vent bezels are kinda small I needed to split the 3 inch exhaust into a 1 ½” hose to each of the handles to get full flow. I fabricated a pair of duct/registers to mount up behind the handle/bezel assembly to direct the air out of the bilge.

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While I was working back there I mounted up this super cool stainless ski rope mount that @Toolman machined up for me. The shaft mounts with a pull pin in a billet block mounted on the transom mount back up plate. The whole thing really came out nice.

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OC Mike

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The level of craftsmanship continues to rise.
Awesome work..👍👍
 

Toolman

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Those came out really nice! Love that dropped forged look.
 

mattyc

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While the hatch was off at gelcoat I needed to figure out how to rig up a bilge fan. When the boat was built it had chrome clamshell vents on each side of the gunwales. Early on I had thought about re-chroming and re-using the original clamshells and flip top gas caps but ended up really liking how clean the top of the gunwales looked without all that stuff and filled the holes.

So now I needed to figure out a new way to vent the bilge fan exhaust and mount a couple of grab handles so the wife and I can climb back in the boat on those hot days at the lake. The traditional approach would be to call up Marine Industries West and order up a set of anodized aluminum grab handles with vent plates, and mount them across the top of the transom.

View attachment 1357957

MWI makes great stuff but with all the polished stainless on the back of the boat I felt like they would look out of place. I also really didn’t like the way the handles stick up at 90 degrees to the mounting surface, they don’t really flow with the lines of the boat. I ended up designing a set of handles that had angled mounting surfaces so they mounted horizontally and parallel to the long axis of the hull. I followed the same design theme I used on the cavitation transom blocks incorporating a 7 degree draft angle around the midline to make them look like could have been forged instead of just a billet piece.

View attachment 1357958

On the vent plates I wanted something a little different than the traditional slotted approach and fooled around in CAD with some different patterns, shapes, and sizes. Using the 3d printer I was able to quickly test different shapes and sizes of back up plates and settled on a relatively small plate with oval holes.

View attachment 1357951 View attachment 1357952 View attachment 1357950 View attachment 1357944 View attachment 1357945 View attachment 1357946 View attachment 1357947

The fan I am using is from Chill Out Industries and is normally used to cool brakes on race cars. It’s identical to the marine versions from Attwood except it’s black instead of white, ignition protected, and matches all the Attwood specs. The fan uses 3” hose and because my handle/vent bezels are kinda small I needed to split the 3 inch exhaust into a 1 ½” hose to each of the handles to get full flow. I fabricated a pair of duct/registers to mount up behind the handle/bezel assembly to direct the air out of the bilge.

View attachment 1357943

While I was working back there I mounted up this super cool stainless ski rope mount that @Toolman machined up for me. The shaft mounts with a pull pin in a billet block mounted on the transom mount back up plate. The whole thing really came out nice.

View attachment 1357948
So are the handles and plates stainless or aluminum? Looks incredible
 

lenmann

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Well, this is a long overdue update and what should be the last chapter of the build.

Some will recall that way back in the early stages of this project I had Bill Sturgis at Arko build a pair of front bucket seats with the plan being to drag the boat back down to Havasu for the rest of the interior once the boat was rigged. Well, needless to say, the rigging took way longer than planned, Bill retired, and he sold Arko to Conquest Boats. Early last year I visited Conquest and set up a date in the spring to bring the boat down at long last. Well, after a year full of re-schedules and missed commitments I gave up.

I started the hunt for a shop that could get me in before the summer and could match the great work Arko did on the front seats. @Boat211 referred me a shop in Sacramento that had recently done some work on his RC that he was very happy with. After talking with Jay and Rene from Acme Tops and Tunes I set a date and dropped the boat off. The team at Acme did a great job executing what I had in mind. They kept me in the loop with progress photos and text updates. They matched the Arko stitching style, material and layout exactly. As you can see in the pics their craftsmanship is top notch. Anyone in NorCal looking for great upholstery work give these guys a call https://www.acmetopsandtunes.com/

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Gratuitous non-skid shot.

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Gratuitous abstract Transom Tuesday (or is it Thursday?) shot.

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Well, with a little luck that should be the end of the build updates, next up...learn how to drive it and have some fun.

I hope everyone has a great summer.
 

SpectraPat

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That boat is a piece of artwork! Beauty beyond words! I’ve really enjoyed your build. You are truly a master at your craft. Congratulations
 

Eliminator21vdrive

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Over the top as always!

Can you post better pictures of trailer steps? Just fishing for Ideas and thought of doing recess tops with gator and it looks like that is what they did?
 

Hammer

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Absolutely stunning build. 😍

I was one of the last ones to have Bill at ARKO do my interior. It’s good to know the shop in Sacramento could match their work. Interior fit and finish looks flawless. 👍

Can you start over and build another? 😂

Congratulations on getting it finished up, I hope to see this boat in person one day.
 

BamBam

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@lenmann I'm very happy that you completed this project. It looks fantastic. You have a great attention to detail and are a very fine craftsman with many different talents and tools. Keep up the good work. Can't wait to see the next thing you build, cause I'm sure you won't sit still for long :)
 

HydroSkreamin

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Spectacular! Your hatch came out absolutely bitchin.

After this long journey I’m happy for you that you found someone to finish the interior to the standards this boat demands.

Such a nice piece, get out there and burn some gas! You certainly deserve it.

I can tell you that every time I take the StressEliminator off the trailer it lives up to its name and I have a great time. I also won’t deny I’m always thinking of things I could improve but having something that you put that much thought, planning, time and effort into is extremely rewarding.

Enjoy, and keep us posted on tuning and how it runs.
 

Toolman

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Well, this is a long overdue update and what should be the last chapter of the build.

Some will recall that way back in the early stages of this project I had Bill Sturgis at Arko build a pair of front bucket seats with the plan being to drag the boat back down to Havasu for the rest of the interior once the boat was rigged. Well, needless to say, the rigging took way longer than planned, Bill retired, and he sold Arko to Conquest Boats. Early last year I visited Conquest and set up a date in the spring to bring the boat down at long last. Well, after a year full of re-schedules and missed commitments I gave up.

I started the hunt for a shop that could get me in before the summer and could match the great work Arko did on the front seats. @Boat211 referred me a shop in Sacramento that had recently done some work on his RC that he was very happy with. After talking with Jay and Rene from Acme Tops and Tunes I set a date and dropped the boat off. The team at Acme did a great job executing what I had in mind. They kept me in the loop with progress photos and text updates. They matched the Arko stitching style, material and layout exactly. As you can see in the pics their craftsmanship is top notch. Anyone in NorCal looking for great upholstery work give these guys a call https://www.acmetopsandtunes.com/

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Gratuitous non-skid shot.

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Gratuitous abstract Transom Tuesday (or is it Thursday?) shot.

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Well, with a little luck that should be the end of the build updates, next up...learn how to drive it and have some fun.

I hope everyone has a great summer.
Well done sir! She’s gorgeous! Some pics out on the water would be nice.🤓
 

Backlash

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I wish you would build another.......

This is one of the threads I come back to over and over again. Even though I had already seen the updates and drooled over the pictures, I am still blown away!

There is nothing else to say. This is one of the most beautiful boats ever assembled. It's simply stunning!! ❤️
 

lenmann

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Over the top as always!

Can you post better pictures of trailer steps? Just fishing for Ideas and thought of doing recess tops with gator and it looks like that is what they did?
Hope these help. The steps are fabricated from 1/8" steel sheet. It looks like they welded a 3/4' wide x 1/8" thick piece of strap along the edge to create the well for the foam inserts.

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HNL2LHC

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Incredibly beautiful!!! I could stare at it all day long. Thanks for sharing.
 

ChrisV

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Time for an update. I am closing in on the last couple pieces of rigging, control cables are all in, pretty much wrapped up the plumbing, and have started the wiring.

First up, the exhaust: Imco fabricated a beautiful set of exhaust tails with a georgous welds and a mirror polished finish. Their process used my mock ups as a template to build a table top fixture and not as the inner tube of the exhaust as I had originally thought. Once the fixture was set up they cut the turbo flanges off my mock ups and built both the inner and outer tube in parallel starting at the turbo flange and working out to the tail. Once I installed them on the motor I could see that the end result was pretty close but not perfect. The port side was off center at the transom hole about 1/8" and the starboard side was off about 5/16" almost hitting the side of the hole in the transom. The turbo flanges I made for the exhaust are pretty beefy at 1/2" thick so I was able to carefully grind material off the face of the flanges to get the tails lined up with the holes in the transom. A .005" change to the face of the mounting flange moves the end of the tail about .060". The trick is removing material in the right place and keeping the flange flat so it seals correctly on the turbo housing. This was huge pain in the ass. I should have listened more closely to what @BamBam was trying to tell me in post #402 above.

So a brief public service announcement to anyone reading this thread in the future thinking about having exhaust tails built off the boat, DON'T DO IT. I should have just sucked it up and taken the 10 hour tow down to SoCal and had IMCO build them on the boat. They would have been perfectly centered in the transom holes and I could have spent a couple of days at the beach while they did their magic instead of a couple of days dicking around trying to get them to fit right. Lesson learned.

The end result looks pretty good though.

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Hey Len,

Who made the transsom exhaust plate? Does the exhaust slip through the rubber so its not a solid mount?
 

lenmann

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Hey Len,

Who made the transsom exhaust plate? Does the exhaust slip through the rubber so its not a solid mount?
Hey Chris,

I made the rings. My original plan was to use the Teague rings but I didn't like the look of the fasteners on the outside so I had some rings laser cut that I finish machined. I drilled and tapped holes on the backside of the outer ring for 1/4-20 studs to mount through the transom and the inside ring.

Yes the exhaust tails float in the grey silicone rubber seals. Originally the inside ring had about .060" of clearance around the exhaust tail, I have since opened them up to about .120" as the tails were rubbing a little in some spots even though the motor is solid mounted.

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ChrisV

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Hey Chris,

I made the rings. My original plan was to use the Teague rings but I didn't like the look of the fasteners on the outside so I had some rings laser cut that I finish machined. I drilled and tapped holes on the backside of the outer ring for 1/4-20 studs to mount through the transom and the inside ring.

Yes the exhaust tails float in the grey silicone rubber seals. Originally the inside ring had about .060" of clearance around the exhaust tail, I have since opened them up to about .120" as the tails were rubbing a little in some spots even though the motor is solid mounted.

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Very clean! I really like not seeing screws on it. Love it.

Does your exhaust have flappers built in the tubes? So water doesn’t go back in.
 

lenmann

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Very clean! I really like not seeing screws on it. Love it.

Does your exhaust have flappers built in the tubes? So water doesn’t go back in.
No flappers, the tails have a pretty good slope up to the turbos. That said the ends do sit pretty close to the water at rest. Definitely going to need to anchor bow out anywhere I park or tie up.

Looking closely at this pic for the first time I may need to reconsider...


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