WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

2001 chevy dually

ka0tyk

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Picked this up almost a year ago... drove out with my SUV and towed my SUV home.

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I think the upholstery had been redone as it doesnt look stock.

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ka0tyk

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When I got home I immediately started changing things up. Swapped out the lights with new black ones.

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Also the lights were replaced with a set of 50w LED's from DDM Tuning here in huntington beach. I've had morimoto HID's in all my cars previous and was tired of the typical hid problems so I decided to give LED's a shot. These were just as bright but had instant on, no "warm up", etc. Got a set in my high beams, low beams, and foglights.

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Rice road at night is plenty bright now.

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ka0tyk

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My detail crew immediately sprung into action

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Engine was detailed

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Claybar, compound, polish, and ceramic wax applied.

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Each wheel removed and polished.

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ka0tyk

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Battery was swapped out with an optima yellow top.

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A small kicker sub was added under the rear seat. I didnt want some crazy booming stereo.

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Shes a thirsty girl

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The truck originally came with this ghetto reverse camera screen in a hidden compartment under the dash. I got rid of all that nonsense and wired exisitng backup camera to the radio.

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ka0tyk

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I was having a weird issue where the car would stumble randomly. I originally thought it was the fuel pump. It took all of an hour to tilt the bed and swap the pump. I opted to put a bigger one JUST IN CASE I got the itch to do anything motor wise. Unfortunately that wasnt the problem, it turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor. Grabbed a new one and tossed it in (actually not tossed, its a HUGE pain in the ass to do on a 8.1l engine and has a tendency to break in half... luckily mine came out in one piece after some cuss words)

also did spark plugs, wires, and new heat shields for wires.

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New to me was having to change the allison transmission filter every 10k. I figure it probably hadnt been done in a while so figured why not.

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All the glass had these weird water spots around the edges. I ended up using some stuff from Sud Factory to remove it and I polished up all of the glass on the truck.

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ka0tyk

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Next I needed to address the suspension. With the DJM 6/8 drop the front is slammed to the ground leaving only about 1" of travel before the bumpstops. I put a set of 2" drop spindles from McGaughy's on so that I could crank the torsion keys back up giving me more room for bumps and also putting some tension into the front springs. I also ended up replacing the front and rear shocks.

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I also ended up putting on a set of new endlinks and swaybar bushings as the old ones were pretty worn.

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As well as the alignment keys for the front control arms with locking pinned ones. The original ones just have a long slot that cams the arm, they tend to move as its just one bolt holding them in the correct place.

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ka0tyk

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The little license plate lights never really worked well... so those got an LED upgrade too.

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ka0tyk

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Then it started to rain... The truck had some aftermarket cab lights and a rear LED light which unfortuantely leaked. I ended up buying a new set and the rear one I just siliconed back in place. No more leaks.

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Next I didnt like the light grey headliner with the black/charcoal interior. So out with that. This was *EXTREMELY* difficult. You have to basically remove everything from the inside of the car. Trim, seats, etc... then you fold it up in half like a taco and shove it out the front passenger door. I learned that if you attempt to do it lightly you will end up breaking just about every edge of the headliner banging it up into things. You really just need to do a 1,2,3 and GO.

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Its out!

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Applied a black alcantara/suede to it. Two cans of 3M 90 high strength spray adhesive, it aint gonna come off.

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Back in.

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I ended up using Duplicolor vinyl and fabric spray for the overhead thing and the sun visors. They came out *PERFECT*.

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Super happy with how it turned out. Also makes the inside smell good.
 

ka0tyk

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Now the fun part... I started gathering parts for a turbo build.

Starting with a GT45 ball bearing turbocharger

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All powdercoated 3" cold side piping.

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Tial wastegate and blowoff valve

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One way check valve for anti drainback on the return line for oil drain to motor

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Lots of AN fittings

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Lots of cold side couplers and t clamps

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ka0tyk

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Oil scavenge pump for the oil drain from turbo to pump back up to the engine

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HP Tuners MPVI2 for tuning.

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25' of 6an and 10an hose

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AEM Wideband O2 air/fuel gauge and sensor

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AEM Boost gauge

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Gauge pod for pillar

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ka0tyk

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Also got a turbo -6an oil feed adapter, and drain adapter to -10an. Turbo exhaust flange and vband. CX Racing stainless turbo inlet with wastegate flange welded in.

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Now that I have a tuner, I was able to delete this funky adapter that changed the speedo for the tire/rim diameter. My speedo was always wrong by like 5mph at 50 and probably 10 at 80.

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Meanwhile a BMW hit my bumper in the best buy parking lot. I ripped his bumper side off, cracked his rim and he got a flat tire. He had to get towed... I had a little scratch that ended up buffing out.

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ka0tyk

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Enough parts... lets start putting things together.

Chopped the rear exhaust off right before the mufflers. They were flowmasters and they were filled with rust. Junk. Supposedly previous owner had redone the exhaust as the owner previous to him had it going straight out the back with some silly like 6" exhaust tips.

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Tacked a vband flange onto a collector.

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The exhaust was still like 2" too close to the frame rail so I took it to an exhaust shop to have the pipes cut, rotated over, and welded up. It ended up fitting great once that was done. The dude kept arguing that it wouldnt work... I aced my geometry classes in high school, trust me its gonna fit.

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A hanger was added that allows the exhaust to move forward/back but very little side/side.

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Getting mounted up

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Starting to make all the hoses and fittings

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ka0tyk

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Time for the oil feed line. Heres the little cap. I didnt have a square socket... it was smaller than a 3/8" but bigger than 1/4".

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Time to make some tools

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and its out!

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Oil feed line plumbed in

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and routed safely along the frame/crossmembers.

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ka0tyk

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Oil return line time

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THIS IS VERY TEMPORARY!!! Plumbed it to the oil filler cap. I'm debating tapping the pan, or the valve cover. Either one requires a gasket which I need to order. Once I figure out where I want to put it, Ill toss a new cap on.

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Check out those booger welds!

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Little paint and helps the welder I aint...

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This was all for a bracket that uses the existing bed bolt and rubber mounts so that I didnt have to drill into the frame to mount it, as well as reducing vibrations/noise from the pump. I also have a new black 90* fitting for the drain on the way... Not sure where that one was misplaced. Doh!

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Get415

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This is sooo fun too watch. Thanks for posting all the work
 

pronstar

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Oh shit how did I miss the thread?
Too cool


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bagged97taco

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So cool. I bet it hauls Ass with the turbo. The 8.1 stock isn’t a pig in a big ass truck.
 

HBCraig

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Wow dude. Very impressive.

I believe you are near me. Are you in the Hope View tract?
 

CobraDave

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I’ve never seen a turbo mounted to the rear like that. Pretty cool. Nice work.


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ka0tyk

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So small update... dealing with some oil drain issues. When I turn off the truck I have a timer relay that runs the pump for 30 seconds.

I'm changing the drain flange, fittings, and hose to the pump to a -12an. Also making it a foot longer. Hoping the additional room in the drain and larger size will help with a small amount of oil smoke on startup and a small oil leak out of the housing. Once the oil situation is taken care of, I'll be hooking up the cold side and mounting the intercooler.

Im mixed between a duramax intercooler or a custom unit. I'm expecting gate psi levels... the duramax intercoolers are probably overkill especially with the length of the cold side piping acting like a cooler in itself.



 

mash on it

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As big of an intercooler as you can fit, reasonably.

Dan'l
 

pronstar

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I’d go the other way...the cold side piping is like 14 feet long. This, combined relatively small intercooler, would keep temps out of the low boost (8-ish psi?) that you’ll be generating.

Plus it won’t cause as much pressure loss, methinks.

These rear mount turbo setups fascinate me. I don’t race from a stop, ever.

But having loads of torque output by simply flexing my ankle on the highway/from a roll sounds wonderful.


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ka0tyk

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I’d go the other way...the cold side piping is like 14 feet long. This, combined relatively small intercooler, would keep temps out of the low boost (8-ish psi?) that you’ll be generating.

Plus it won’t cause as much pressure loss, methinks.

These rear mount turbo setups fascinate me. I don’t race from a stop, ever.

But having loads of torque output by simply flexing my ankle on the highway/from a roll sounds wonderful.


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that’s basically where I am at. Everyone uses the biggest they can when it’s front mount... but I basically have a giant intercooler pipe running down the side. I might even just plumb it up and see what my iat’s are before attempting the intercooler.
 

Eric Anderson

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If you do end up putting an intercooler in I’d prolly try and make a oem 01-04 lb7 one work
 

BUDMAN

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Loving this build thread and the truck. Great job.
 

motormonkey

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So small update... dealing with some oil drain issues.


I've done couple of rear mounts and fixed a couple. Make a sump box connected to turbo drain. 3X5 and hook pump return in the sump. Cool project.
 

ka0tyk

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Little break from turbos. Grabbed a forever sharp black muscle wheel leather wrapped and a17 adapter. Tossed it on. Feels much more solid than the stock wheel. I don’t daily drive the truck so not super worried about airbag. Tossed a resistor onto the harness to get rid of the dash light warning.
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evantwheeler

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Curious how you will get around smog requirements in CA with the turbo setup?

I have the same drive train in an 02 CCLB, will be doing these stainless headers and adding the tap shift option to the drive selector when I get back home from working out of town.



Thanks for sharing your build, very interested in seeing the results of your turbo install. Will you be tuning it yourself? Any other mods to the engine planned?

There are some intake mods that can be done to really help increase airflow. There is a shop in AZ that will do the mods for $850+ shipping.


"Intake, PVC, and Throttle body mods are $850.00 plus shipping both ways. I,unlike others, work not just on total manifold airflow, but runner equalization too. You wouldn't believe how far off the stock runner balance is. Stainless Works has the longest tube and 3 different O.D. of the pipes available too for different load applications. 623-877-8553 (shop) Timm"
 

ka0tyk

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Curious how you will get around smog requirements in CA with the turbo setup?

I have the same drive train in an 02 CCLB, will be doing these stainless headers and adding the tap shift option to the drive selector when I get back home from working out of town.



Thanks for sharing your build, very interested in seeing the results of your turbo install. Will you be tuning it yourself? Any other mods to the engine planned?

There are some intake mods that can be done to really help increase airflow. There is a shop in AZ that will do the mods for $850+ shipping.


"Intake, PVC, and Throttle body mods are $850.00 plus shipping both ways. I,unlike others, work not just on total manifold airflow, but runner equalization too. You wouldn't believe how far off the stock runner balance is. Stainless Works has the longest tube and 3 different O.D. of the pipes available too for different load applications. 623-877-8553 (shop) Timm"
I’ll tune it via the hp tuners software. I’ve already changed a couple things with torque management and power enrichment that woke the truck up. I have an aem wideband o2 and a butt dyno. I figure change some fuel trims and keep timing out of it until I get everything dialed in.

as far as smog, that’s exactly why I went rear mount. Itll take nothing to slap the stock tune back on it, ditch the intake tube down to the fender and put the stock air box back in. At that point it’s smog legal. Changing the “muffler” isn’t bad for smog checks. My muffler just happens to spin. I have a Asian guy in garden grove that does all my smogs.

if it was under the hood I would be forced to change manifolds and do a bunch of work.
 
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t&y

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I was having a weird issue where the car would stumble randomly. I originally thought it was the fuel pump. It took all of an hour to tilt the bed and swap the pump. I opted to put a bigger one JUST IN CASE I got the itch to do anything motor wise. Unfortunately that wasnt the problem, it turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor. Grabbed a new one and tossed it in (actually not tossed, its a HUGE pain in the ass to do on a 8.1l engine and has a tendency to break in half... luckily mine came out in one piece after some cuss words)

also did spark plugs, wires, and new heat shields for wires.

View attachment 875090

Uhhhhh...... What in the holy hell is going on in the picture, and how is the bed flexing like that around the tail light?:confused:
 

ka0tyk

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Uhhhhh...... What in the holy hell is going on in the picture, and how is the bed flexing like that around the tail light?:confused:
loosen bed bolts on one side, remove the other, and jack the bed up from one side. Easier than pulling the bed. Took all of an hour to replace the fuel pump. Dropping the tank would be terrible.
 

95Enforcer

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Great looking dually Derek. Gonna be a sick with that big hair dryer.
 

FROGMAN524

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Very cool build


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ka0tyk

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new drain parts showed up today. Increased to 12an and made it a little longer hopefully to act like a reservoir before hitting the pump. Also gonna move the check valve to the push side of the pump to help with suction.

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ka0tyk

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I think this will make the biggest difference. The drain flange was just a hole. Whereas the new one is angled etc for a smoother exit. Plus the hose will be much larger.
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ka0tyk

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This should work better.

before and after
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