that’s basically where I am at. Everyone uses the biggest they can when it’s front mount... but I basically have a giant intercooler pipe running down the side. I might even just plumb it up and see what my iat’s are before attempting the intercooler.I’d go the other way...the cold side piping is like 14 feet long. This, combined relatively small intercooler, would keep temps out of the low boost (8-ish psi?) that you’ll be generating.
Plus it won’t cause as much pressure loss, methinks.
These rear mount turbo setups fascinate me. I don’t race from a stop, ever.
But having loads of torque output by simply flexing my ankle on the highway/from a roll sounds wonderful.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I’ll tune it via the hp tuners software. I’ve already changed a couple things with torque management and power enrichment that woke the truck up. I have an aem wideband o2 and a butt dyno. I figure change some fuel trims and keep timing out of it until I get everything dialed in.Curious how you will get around smog requirements in CA with the turbo setup?
I have the same drive train in an 02 CCLB, will be doing these stainless headers and adding the tap shift option to the drive selector when I get back home from working out of town.
2001-03 Chevy/GMC Truck-8.1L. 2" primary tubes, uses factory headpipes and cats-long tube design makes great low end torque and horsepower. Will not fit lifted vehicles.stainlessworks.net
Thanks for sharing your build, very interested in seeing the results of your turbo install. Will you be tuning it yourself? Any other mods to the engine planned?
There are some intake mods that can be done to really help increase airflow. There is a shop in AZ that will do the mods for $850+ shipping.
"Intake, PVC, and Throttle body mods are $850.00 plus shipping both ways. I,unlike others, work not just on total manifold airflow, but runner equalization too. You wouldn't believe how far off the stock runner balance is. Stainless Works has the longest tube and 3 different O.D. of the pipes available too for different load applications. 623-877-8553 (shop) Timm"
I was having a weird issue where the car would stumble randomly. I originally thought it was the fuel pump. It took all of an hour to tilt the bed and swap the pump. I opted to put a bigger one JUST IN CASE I got the itch to do anything motor wise. Unfortunately that wasnt the problem, it turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor. Grabbed a new one and tossed it in (actually not tossed, its a HUGE pain in the ass to do on a 8.1l engine and has a tendency to break in half... luckily mine came out in one piece after some cuss words)
also did spark plugs, wires, and new heat shields for wires.
View attachment 875090
loosen bed bolts on one side, remove the other, and jack the bed up from one side. Easier than pulling the bed. Took all of an hour to replace the fuel pump. Dropping the tank would be terrible.Uhhhhh...... What in the holy hell is going on in the picture, and how is the bed flexing like that around the tail light?