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2001 chevy dually

outboard_256

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Trying to figure out where to route the exhaust. 4” ain’t gonna fit over the axle. For now I’ll just dump it along with the wastegate.
View attachment 899364 Next is pulling out all the hoses so I can change fittings etc for new drain. One step forward two steps backwards.

Don't you launch boats and tow trailers and dirt bikes with this truck? Seems like this is the worst possible location for a turbo. I understand if it was a track car but a pickup that gets used as a pickup, no thanks. Did you not have room under the hood?
 

ka0tyk

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pump lowered 2”. -12an bigger drain hose. Smaller feed. Need a clamp for cold side I don’t think the zip tie is gonna cut it.
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ka0tyk

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Everything works. No leaks, No oil passed the seals in the turbo anymore. You can hear the CX Racing oil pump as little bits of oil draining here and there. I'm going to be switching to a Turbowerx style pump which should be MUCH quieter. I ordered a 3.5" t clamp for the cold side pipe, I'm not sure where it disappeared to. I've looked everywhere.


and even though I lowered the pump and I have that coiled section of hose for the drain its not really visible from outside still which is nice.

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CLdrinker

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Truck looks so nice. Get that boost tube hooked up and lit it rip tater chip!!!
 

motormonkey

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The pump noise should go away when you drive it. Your not getting enough oil volume yet to fill anything.
 

74 spectra20 v-drive

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Love this build, got my mind going on my 2000 crew cab short bed... Great job and really a beautiful truck
 

TPC

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Oh shit how did I miss the thread?
Too cool [emoji106]


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I just found it too.

We have a 2001 big block 2500.
We really like it.
Cheap to own.

The plastic gets brittle and breaks in the window regulators on these trucks but Its a really cheap and simple and fast fix.

Only a few bucks more get the replacement regulator with the drive motor attached for ease of installation. Maybe $40 total.
It’s a much better running window drive motor too.

The only replacement radiator that holds up is the GM OEM.
I tried them all and replacing the mounts is essential. Otherwise you’re wasting your time and money.

That’s all the issues we’ve had in 260.000 miles other than a couple $100 teething pains.
Might be time to get the seats redone.

Runs better than the day we bought it.
 
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ka0tyk

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While the turbo stuff is going on I’m trying to find a set of wheels. Right now it has the 19.5s with the heavy duty tires and they ride a little rough. Going with a set of 22.5s milled down to 22s and run passenger tires. Found a guy that does a custom inner and faces the outer to get them to tuck in nicely so later on when the rear gets a 4link and watts link that they won’t hit the fenders.

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ka0tyk

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22.5” Alcoa Wheels and tires ordered. Offset and milled outer to tuck them in the fenders. Adapters, caps, and tires. Hopefully “two weeks”. Said 6 days and then shipping. My mailman is gonna hate me with six wheels and tires. Hah

Also got around to tossing this into the oil feed.

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ka0tyk

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Off to Home Depot. Sorry for the portrait video. Epic fail.

 

ka0tyk

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Went to Long Beach high performance swap meet and scored me a filter for my turbo and some “non California” plastidip for my wife’s Range Rover to black out the trim.


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ka0tyk

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so got confirmation that my wheels are ready to be made. they'll be full size 22.5" alcoas milled to fit a 22" passenger tire and the outer will be a flat face wheel with a diff offset than a regular dually so they'll tuck in the fenders (hint hint at whats coming next!). you can see in the bottom pic how much closer the wheels will sit, giving me about 3" more room. Because the offset flat face wheel has different hole sizes they get custom milled and the holes opened on both to match. They're not "mega holes" but they wont be stock.

098354D8-842C-482B-BEDB-4AD3F9E13E70.jpg


you can see how much closer the wheels will sit versus a standard dually set.
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eand28

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only the inner dual is faced. the outers are normal as are the fronts
 

ka0tyk

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i havent gotten them yet so this is all as I was told on the phone. the rear outer is the diff offset to pull it inwards away from the fender. the inner wheel remains the same to keep it away from the leaf spring, etc. since the outer wheel moves about 2" inward the hole patterns dont match up with a regular inner so they cnc both rear and the fronts to a slightly larger diameter "holes" to make them all appear the same.
 

ka0tyk

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heres the same setup ill have... you can see the rear tucks inside the fender. supposedly they're on a truck and should be here on the 4th.

70120810_2341546575900410_5640063805141549056_o.jpg


the size of the holes on this diff offset wheel are smaller so they all get matched up.

22.5x9_001.jpg


these are all alcoa wheels. dont get the china blanks.
 
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eand28

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i havent gotten them yet so this is all as I was told on the phone. the rear outer is the diff offset to pull it inwards away from the fender. the inner wheel remains the same to keep it away from the leaf spring, etc. since the outer wheel moves about 2" inward the hole patterns dont match up with a regular inner so they cnc both rear and the fronts to a slightly larger diameter "holes" to make them all appear the same.
yeah you are right on
 

ka0tyk

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why are the holes so big on some of them? Wouldn't you want them all matching or are those the inner wheels? Weight reduction?

no i dont think so... but i did find this video about "lowboy motorsport" thats pretty much "the man" as far as lowered dually's go. he kinda touches on how they do it. something to do with how the inner holes appear from outside that match up? I dunno. We will see when they get mounted up. I can kinda see how some of the holes go to the "face" and the offset outer rears have the oblong holes... I think once they're all mounted up it should visually look the same.

 

eand28

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no i dont think so... but i did find this video about "lowboy motorsport" thats pretty much "the man" as far as lowered dually's go. he kinda touches on how they do it. something to do with how the inner holes appear from outside that match up? I dunno. We will see when they get mounted up. I can kinda see how some of the holes go to the "face" and the offset outer rears have the oblong holes... I think once they're all mounted up it should visually look the same.

Yes they machine the holes so they match up/line up when you put the wheels on. Looks cleaner
 

merc_400r

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no i dont think so... but i did find this video about "lowboy motorsport" thats pretty much "the man" as far as lowered dually's go. he kinda touches on how they do it. something to do with how the inner holes appear from outside that match up? I dunno. We will see when they get mounted up. I can kinda see how some of the holes go to the "face" and the offset outer rears have the oblong holes... I think once they're all mounted up it should visually look the same.


what tires did you go with? I heard there aren't many options for 22" load E in a low profile. Were they expensive?
 

ka0tyk

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As 8.1l owners know the pcv is a little “aggressive” on these engines and they suck oil. So the plugs get ugly quick. This will all be solved later when I modify the intake manifold to remove a baffle and open it up. The pcv will be removed and we will hook up a regular style pcv system to a valve cover and a catch can. This should help keep intake clean and lower oil “consumption”. Anyways I swapped the plugs out with a spare set. I’ll clean these up and every other oil change I’ll just swap plugs. No big deal it takes like 10 minutes to do plugs on this thing.
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I also repainted the front lower air dam. It being so low it basically gets blasted with rocks and dirt.

Next up I’m swapping the turbo out with another one. I think with the oil drain and feed lines the seals got abused and I had a tiny tiny tiny oil drip out of the intake side. No worries new turbo new seals all good to go.
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Next up we made it faster, now we gotta make sure we can stop. 20 year old brake lines are a bit sketchy. All new ac delco lines, new bleeders, fluid flush, and also I noticed the alignment cam bolts and pins were kinda all over the place. I’m just gonna swap em out for new and after I get new wheels it’ll go to an alignment shop.
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SpectraPat

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Is that the warlock in the background? Any progress on the boat?
 

ka0tyk

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You got some work to do. Cant wait to see them on the truck. Wheels look amazing.

i dreaded taking the wheels off before... now ill have 72 lugnuts to undo if i ever have to remove a wheel/hub. The adapter to 10 lug say to torque to 450+ ft lbs?!?! holy crap.
 

95Enforcer

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i dreaded taking the wheels off before... now ill have 72 lugnuts to undo if i ever have to remove a wheel/hub. The adapter to 10 lug say to torque to 450+ ft lbs?!?! holy crap.

Damn thats a lot. May need a mobile semi tire guy to come by with one of those huge impact guns lol. Wish I was closer I’d come give you a hand with it and catch up.
 

HNL2LHC

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Looking forward to seeing all of those wheel installed.


















Is it done yet?
 

ka0tyk

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Is it done yet?

haha i wish it was that easy. I need to grab a set of flat washer lugnuts as my current wheels have lugnuts that go to those wheels and the adapters for the 10 lug dont have a bevel for a typical acorn style lugnut. So either gotta order em online or find somewhere that sources them locally...

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ka0tyk

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why is it sticking out so much? Looks like the tire is out side of your body, won't it hit the fender when you hit bumps?

the adapter does move the wheel out probably a good 1/2” or so. Duallies have a front spacer than can be removed to pull em in if I need to. We will see after the bagged front end gets put in where the front wheels end up. It’s also a little crooked as I had just dropped it off the jack and the camber gets all funky until I drive it around a little bit. Either way I don’t think it’ll rub, there’s a good 3” gap. If I do hear/see a rub I’ll just have to figure it out. I can always crank the keys up some more.
 

ka0tyk

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looks good. What's that hanging down under your bed in front of your rear tire?

oil scavenge pump for the turbocharger.

 

merc_400r

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oil scavenge pump for the turbocharger.


That looks like a bad spot for it. That looks super low, can you suck it up into the body. It would be a bad day if that got hit and ripped off the truck.
 

ka0tyk

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That looks like a bad spot for it. That looks super low, can you suck it up into the body. It would be a bad day if that got hit and ripped off the truck.

if the oil pump hits anything, it'd have to hit the frame first which sits about 5-6" lower than that. it has to be lower than the turbocharger as its gravity fed. i originally had it about 4" higher and I was getting an oil drip out the back. The turbo exhaust sits lower and right before the rear wheel and it has yet to "self clearance". heh.
 

CLdrinker

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Looks good. Isn’t Arco full of water?


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Why do people always say stuff like this. I bought arco gas for 10 straights years 2-3 times a week and never had 1 single issue.
 

pronstar

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Have you posted anything about how she runs? Would be cool to see a vid of the speedo as you floor it.


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ka0tyk

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i think the wider wheels/tires highlighted an issue with the idler arm. I had some shaking in the steering wheel after I put em on. Took it for an alignment and they said the idler was wiped out. Got a new one gonna toss it on and head back to get it all straightened out, heh. They said everything else looked great

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the look from the back is pretty sweet now though. A lot of people comment on the spikes. Especially kids. “Have you chopped anyone up with those?” Hah.
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ka0tyk

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Well I’ll share the good and the bad. Not everything goes perfect. I’ve been dealing with a harsh vibration in the front since putting the new wheels and tires on. I had it aligned by Vodies in garden grove. No one else would touch a lowered dually crew cab long bed with custom wheels. Too low, too heavy, too custom. Vodies put it spot on and it drives straight as an arrow but the wheel still shook. I took the truck to Salinas Tire in Westminster as they deal with American force dually wheels and a lot of lifted bro trucks with huge rims and tires. They dismounted the tire from the rim as it wasn’t properly seating the bead. Some spots in the fronts had almost 1/8” gap off the wheel face.

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The tire and rim were slathered with tons of tire goo and pumped up to almost 75psi and it still wouldn’t seat. Not sure why without putting the wheel on some special machines to check if it was milled to spec etc. either way I didn’t want to get involved in all that. Called the company and the two fronts are back on their way to Florida to be swapped out with new ones. Sucks but that’s the way it goes I guess. There’s not a lot of shops on the west coast that do this kinda stuff. The place in Florida has been accommodating and appreciated me troubleshooting em before just calling with “they don’t work...”
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oh well luckily I still have my old set and can toss those back on the front.
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DRYHEAT

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Well I’ll share the good and the bad. Not everything goes perfect. I’ve been dealing with a harsh vibration in the front since putting the new wheels and tires on. I had it aligned by Vodies in garden grove. No one else would touch a lowered dually crew cab long bed with custom wheels. Too low, too heavy, too custom. Vodies put it spot on and it drives straight as an arrow but the wheel still shook. I took the truck to Salinas Tire in Westminster as they deal with American force dually wheels and a lot of lifted bro trucks with huge rims and tires. They dismounted the tire from the rim as it wasn’t properly seating the bead. Some spots in the fronts had almost 1/8” gap off the wheel face.

View attachment 929328
View attachment 929330
The tire and rim were slathered with tons of tire goo and pumped up to almost 75psi and it still wouldn’t seat. Not sure why without putting the wheel on some special machines to check if it was milled to spec etc. either way I didn’t want to get involved in all that. Called the company and the two fronts are back on their way to Florida to be swapped out with new ones. Sucks but that’s the way it goes I guess. There’s not a lot of shops on the west coast that do this kinda stuff. The place in Florida has been accommodating and appreciated me troubleshooting em before just calling with “they don’t work...”
View attachment 929335

oh well luckily I still have my old set and can toss those back on the front.
View attachment 929338
Bummer, hopefully it won’t take to long to get sorted out.
 

merc_400r

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Well I’ll share the good and the bad. Not everything goes perfect. I’ve been dealing with a harsh vibration in the front since putting the new wheels and tires on. I had it aligned by Vodies in garden grove. No one else would touch a lowered dually crew cab long bed with custom wheels. Too low, too heavy, too custom. Vodies put it spot on and it drives straight as an arrow but the wheel still shook. I took the truck to Salinas Tire in Westminster as they deal with American force dually wheels and a lot of lifted bro trucks with huge rims and tires. They dismounted the tire from the rim as it wasn’t properly seating the bead. Some spots in the fronts had almost 1/8” gap off the wheel face.

View attachment 929328
View attachment 929330
The tire and rim were slathered with tons of tire goo and pumped up to almost 75psi and it still wouldn’t seat. Not sure why without putting the wheel on some special machines to check if it was milled to spec etc. either way I didn’t want to get involved in all that. Called the company and the two fronts are back on their way to Florida to be swapped out with new ones. Sucks but that’s the way it goes I guess. There’s not a lot of shops on the west coast that do this kinda stuff. The place in Florida has been accommodating and appreciated me troubleshooting em before just calling with “they don’t work...”
View attachment 929335

oh well luckily I still have my old set and can toss those back on the front.
View attachment 929338

you replaced the idler arm and it didn't fix the steering wheel shake? If the idler arm was bad it should have fixed it. The wheels are not likely the problem. For the wheels to cause the steering wheel to shake the mounting surface would have to be off or the wheel bent. Since they are new wheels chances of that are slim to none. I would try a different idler arm, maybe you got a defective one. I don't see how replacing a bad idler arm wouldn't fix your issue.
 

ka0tyk

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you replaced the idler arm and it didn't fix the steering wheel shake? If the idler arm was bad it should have fixed it. The wheels are not likely the problem. For the wheels to cause the steering wheel to shake the mounting surface would have to be off or the wheel bent. Since they are new wheels chances of that are slim to none. I would try a different idler arm, maybe you got a defective one. I don't see how replacing a bad idler arm wouldn't fix your issue.

The idler arm was worn and I saw when it was being aligned. They would shake the steering wheel back and forth and the idler support and arm would wiggle before the tie rod and tire moved. So they were replaced, took it back and alignment is complete. I have my original wheels on now and they are fine no shake. There wasn’t a shake before due to idler but I wanted to rule out the alignment as I wasn’t sure the last time it had been done. Also I changed the ride height via the keys and changed the spindles. Also the alignment cam bolts pins and plates were replaced. Wheels are already at the place and a new set is being sent back.
 
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