WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

2003 Tremor

ltzcrew

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This is my first go fast boat, , spent a little over a year looking before i came across this gem only 8h away in Bend Oregon..
2003 Shockwave tremor closed bow with a 575SCI.
came with all the original service books, the original Shockwave build sheet and some printed photo of the boat during the build. including one of the 575sci on the shipping pallet from Merc. Racing.
thought that was super sweet.

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ltzcrew

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ran it for the summer of 2017 and got 80mph out of it with a full tank of fuel and a hurt blower. from doing some digging on here and other forums it looks like its run 83-85mph in the past. time for a over haul and to fix some of the quirks
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got some goodies and got it assembled

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did 775HP @5800rpm and 745lbs at 4700rpms at 4PSI on the dyno. re pulley in the boat for 8psi so it should be into the 8's
 

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RCDave

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Awesome. Keep the thread going. I owned an 03 tremor for years. They are a great hull and manufacturer
 

ltzcrew

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im just waiting on all the snow to melt so i can pull it out and keep going

i boat on a pretty big lake that likes to get super rough in the evenings and this thing just eats the waves like they are nothing. and you stay dry to boot

what power is yours running RCDave
 

RCDave

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I had one for about 7 years. It was a closed bow with a 496HO. Best top end I noted was 72.8MPH running a labbed merc. Mirage + 3 blade. Not the best for all around performance. I typically ran a 23P rev-4 and saw 71 mph with that prop.

I had mine out one time in the Lake Mohave basin running 3-4' tightly spaced wind waves. The faster this boat runs, the better the ride. We were running 55-60mph through that and was a total blast!
 

Kachina26

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That's a lot of motor in that hull. Should be fun.
 

ltzcrew

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I had one for about 7 years. It was a closed bow with a 496HO. Best top end I noted was 72.8MPH running a labbed merc. Mirage + 3 blade. Not the best for all around performance. I typically ran a 23P rev-4 and saw 71 mph with that prop.

I had mine out one time in the Lake Mohave basin running 3-4' tightly spaced wind waves. The faster this boat runs, the better the ride. We were running 55-60mph through that and was a total blast!
that seems to be the sweet spot eh? the year i had it running it seemed to love that 60mph cruise spot no matter the water
That's a lot of motor in that hull. Should be fun.
thats what i hear:p id love to crack 100 but ill be happy in the 90's
Boat looks super clean..
Tell more about Camaros..:)
I got 95 and 68...
94 Z28 - black, 97 Z28 - red and the 68 SS - green. 94 is a twin turbo Lt1 build, 97 is a 408 LS2 with a procharger, 68 was a originally a 350 SS power glide car. now has a 427 and m21 wide ratio



im supried how much room was in this thing with the motor stripped right down. i now get why some people like outboards
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ltzcrew

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well, most of the snow has finally melted so thought it was time to get it out of storage.
spent all day and got almost nothing done haha
cleaned off some old gaskets and confirmed the spacer will light the EFI plate up enough for the throttle linkage to work.
made a to-do list. luckily its small so it should go fast.
Side question for anyone that has done lost of wiring

my fuel pump set up - im copying the Whipple relay set up- with trying to run the least amount of wire possible. it shows the power coming off the starter +. with the alternator being right their with a live wire, the one that comes off the starter +. i was wondering why they dont use the alternator post? has any one have any experience with this or a reason not to? i know in Camaro they run a "hot wire" kit for the fuel pump and use the alternator.
 

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Shlbyntro

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I wouldn't. You want that 10 gauge wire or however thinner than that might be to be fully dedicated to run up to that max charging amperage your alternator is rated for. Any accessory you bolt on there will rob you of the amp carrying capacity of the wire. Back at the starter, its drawing through the 2ga or however thick wire that is that goes to the battery which is rated for 200a or so and only has to carry that many apps for a few seconds then it can be lazy and only carry the few amps that your alternator is putting out for the rest of the time leaving an excess of 100+A of load carrying capacity. The alternator wire has no excess capacity and is only as thick as it needs to be to carry amperage from the alternator to the starter post where it then goes to the battery.

Long story short. You probably could but why? You'd be stressing the load carrying capacity of a wire unnecessarily which in the perfectly wrong conditions could potentially cause an electrical fire when all you would have to do is run an extra 18" of wire to the starter to do it safely and correctly.


I'm sure I went way overboard just now lol
 

ltzcrew

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i get what your putting down. .id be running a new tire to the alternator for the power. not splitting a existing one jut to be clear.
only thought of it to keep the rats nest of wires to a minimum and i already have a few coming off the starter from the holly system. but i guess the back of the motor hides it all anyways , what one more wire:p thanks.. BTW your boat looks killer. its whats been keeping me motivated to finish mine VS selling it haha
 

ltzcrew

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One thing off the list.
Throttle plate and spacer on
Man it sits high

Next is picking where to mount the ecu. I was thinking on the panel in front of the tab pump. Far away from heat, no direct water and near a vent Any ideas?
 

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Andy B.

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One thing off the list.
Throttle plate and spacer on
Man it sits high

Next is picking where to mount the ecu. I was thinking on the panel in front of the tab pump. Far away from heat, no direct water and near a vent Any ideas?

Nice job hey were did you get those battery holder's I switched from optima and the new holders I have are cheap and temporary. Sorry I have no thoughts on the throttle spacers not my area of expertise.
 

02HoWaRd26

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One thing off the list.
Throttle plate and spacer on
Man it sits high

Next is picking where to mount the ecu. I was thinking on the panel in front of the tab pump. Far away from heat, no direct water and near a vent Any ideas?

Just read this, great build up!

I 100% agree not to take and add any more wires to the alternator myself. Shlbyntro explained it perfectly or how i see it as well. The ecu should be ip65 however i would do the best to keep away from water anyway. Seems from the factory it’s mounted above the head on the rear, depending upon the wire length I’d try and put it behind the real panels on the gunnels or even on the forward firewall.
 

wet hull

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One thing off the list.
Throttle plate and spacer on
Man it sits high

Next is picking where to mount the ecu. I was thinking on the panel in front of the tab pump. Far away from heat, no direct water and near a vent Any ideas?
Depends what you want maintenance wise? My motor has all components mounted on it. Disconnect Merc plug, batteries, water hose and 4 engine mounts. Everything lifts out of boat. my engine is cool to the touch even after a hard run.
 

ltzcrew

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Nice job hey were did you get those battery holder's I switched from optima and the new holders I have are cheap and temporary. Sorry I have no thoughts on the throttle spacers not my area of expertise.
im not sure, they where on the boat when i got it. ill look and see if they have any writing on them next time im in the boat.

Depends what you want maintenance wise? My motor has all components mounted on it. Disconnect Merc plug, batteries, water hose and 4 engine mounts. Everything lifts out of boat. my engine is cool to the touch even after a hard run.
i was thinking about that but im worried about shortening the harness and of course its not long enough to mount on the seat back like the amp and all the other crap o_O


I was going to try for the factory location but the holly ecu is to big to fit nicely back their . im leaning towards removing the padding on part of that panel and mounting in on that side. maybe french it in like 02Howard26 did with his amps
 

Andy B.

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im not sure, they where on the boat when i got it. ill look and see if they have any writing on them next time im in the boat.

i was thinking about that but im worried about shortening the harness and of course its not long enough to mount on the seat back like the amp and all the other crap o_O


I was going to try for the factory location but the holly ecu is to big to fit nicely back their . im leaning towards removing the padding on part of that panel and mounting in on that side. maybe french it in like 02Howard26 did with his amps

Thanks!
 

ltzcrew

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any one used something like this?
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thinking this may solve my trillion wires to the starter issue
 

Shlbyntro

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I use them quite a bit. Don't know how many wires you're running but they work well if you do have that many wires going on
 

ltzcrew

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how did i miss this? what brand did you use?
i have about 4 or 5 of the top of my head
 

Shlbyntro

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Those were Sierra. About $20 each. Sea dog makes a comparable one. BEP and blue sea make some nice ones that come with covers but are on the very pricey side. Whichever you choose, use one with 1/4-20 studs or larger
 

02HoWaRd26

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im not sure, they where on the boat when i got it. ill look and see if they have any writing on them next time im in the boat.

i was thinking about that but im worried about shortening the harness and of course its not long enough to mount on the seat back like the amp and all the other crap o_O


I was going to try for the factory location but the holly ecu is to big to fit nicely back their . im leaning towards removing the padding on part of that panel and mounting in on that side. maybe french it in like 02Howard26 did with his amps

That frenching is faux as long as you know that. It’s just a false face wall with the amp slots cut out. I’d say like WetHull would be nice to have just a few disconnects and pull if ever needed. Plus will make real easy if ever need to have dyno’d. Good zipties with metal ends will make that harness look shorter and simple clean.
 

ltzcrew

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well its all wired and plumed, not the pretties but its in!
now just exhaust to be welded up and see if the hatch fits
 

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Shlbyntro

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Nice job hey were did you get those battery holder's I switched from optima and the new holders I have are cheap and temporary. Sorry I have no thoughts on the throttle spacers not my area of expertise.

Any boat shop with a land n sea/diversified account can get them for you if they already don't have them on the shelf. They're very affordable too.

If I'm not mistaken, I used the same ones in black for my 31series stereo batteries
 

BajaMike

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I love the Shockwave Tremor, great boat, eats up the waves like they aren’t even there!
 

ltzcrew

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gimbal_ring_drawing.jpg

any one have any luck with removing the #8 bolts, the shim, #6 has to be replaced. i hear they are lock tighten in
 

ltzcrew

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slow going but its in and running, sounds super nasty- cant wait to open it up and see what it can do.

like any project found a new issue, wont get into gear now that its all assembled haha. with the leg off everything moves smooth and fine so im thinking its that dented ball in the leg. what a PIA to get at on a XR with the tie bar mount.:mad: looks like i have to pull the top cap, will i risk screwing up anything if i remove it?. looks like it just has a shim, roller bearing and a seal
 

ltzcrew

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well got it out and running
got 83mph at 5400rpms. limiter is set at 6100 so im thinking im in the 90 ball park just have to learn how to deal the amount of wind at that speed and the torque roll. more throttle i give it the more it leans. cant seem to get it to break free and flatten out but at 12% slip i feel like that number is pretty good for a v hull so no clue on that one

hoping with a extra 200hp i could prop up but well see
 

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ltzcrew

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got a worked over bravo 30P, stamped as a 31 on the boat. ran slower at all speeds and slip was super high. so back to the drawing board
 

ltzcrew

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got the orignal 28 labbed, ring cut down and blades thinned out - past that i think its still a 28. boat still leans like a MF, if i trim it way up itll flatten out but starts to slow down - i think a shorty is next

red line is full trim down,
blue line is normal running at its fastest
green line is where i have to trim up to kill the lean
 

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DILLIGAF

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got the orignal 28 labbed, ring cut down and blades thinned out - past that i think its still a 28. boat still leans like a MF, if i trim it way up itll flatten out but starts to slow down - i think a shorty is next

red line is full trim down,
blue line is normal running at its fastest
green line is where i have to trim up to kill the lean

I am sure if you call SW they can suggest a few things for you.
 

ltzcrew

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i did, turns out not many people are running tremors like this. apparently mine was the only one to leave the factory with more then 500hp *from what i have heard and they can recall*
 
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