2006 JEEP TJ 4.0

[2FORCEFULL]

i GOT THIS JEEP...... it has a lifter noise.... around #4... put a bunch of marvil mistery oil in it, it's getting quieter... but still a little tic... any ideas??? it's to cheep to just get another new motor so pulling the head to change a lifter aint gonna happen...

 

[Brokeboatin221]

Turn up the stereo

 

[ChumpChange]

Put a loud exhaust on it.

 

[t&y]

Sell it to me for Cheep and 4 get a bout itttttttttt

 

[2FORCEFULL]

Sell it to me for Cheep and 4 get a bout itttttttttt

sorry,jeep tj and cheep don't go together...

 

[Brokeboatin221]

No kidding my kid wants one for a first car! I have 6 yrs to save

 

[monkeyswrench]

If it's getting quieter, run it and heat cycle it some more.

What weight and type of oil? I've had good luck running them on 15w40 non-synthetic, seems to quiet them down.

 

[4Waters]

Pull it out and put a slant 6 in it and it will never die. Lol

 

[SoCalDave]

Surprised no one has asked if he has tried a different prop...

 

[2FORCEFULL]

If it's getting quieter, run it and heat cycle it some more.

What weight and type of oil? I've had good luck running them on 15w40 non-synthetic, seems to quiet them down.

when I got it, it was hammering bad.... I put 2 quarts of marvil and just let it sit and run ,. so far it has quieted way down to now the lifter is working again..just a little tic yesterday.... and this morning it pretty much gone... also it had misfire codes and problems with the purge valve..... all common jeep issues... changed the plugs and put a quart of lucas in the tank... I put a new purge valve , but it kept throwing codes.... hit the old one with a power probe and its works fine... might be it was a bad connection or cause it sat too long... only got drove 20 miles in 3 years..... the lady I bought it from lied her ass off about everything.. my son has a car fax app and that told the real story..also it had/ has a throwout bearing noise that seems to be going away.. figure I'll drive it till it breaks and have my shop put a new motor and clutch when it does.. seems like all most all motors now days have their specific issue's, and most all relate to not changing oil... I remember back in the day the old ford "Y" blocks would do this same thing... I'd put about 3 quarts of tranny fluid in the oil and just let it sit and run for hours till they quieted down.... that and run a quart down the carb.. after that smoke cleared and it run for a while I'd start dumping cups of water down the carb..


might need to do that to this motor... might have some carbon on the valves

 

[2FORCEFULL]

so what do I think happened????? same thing with boat motors..... never got the oil changed , lifter stuck when it sat for 3 or 4 years..... then got run with 3 or 4 year old fuel that was in the tank...

had I got to this before some else... I would have dumped the fuel, a fogged the upper with a quart of marvel down the throttle body, maybe even twice... I did put a quart of lucas in the tank.... maybe I should have put 2.... the lady got a dirty smog done and gave me the slip.... it had hard codes that never woould have passed..... funny the things people do to dump their problems on you.... my son buys old cars and fix's them... he shows up with a scanner.... that and he car fax's them.... he said you would not believe how many have the cluster changed out... but like anything,... you need to know the market before you spen your money... I know what these TJ are worth, and bought this one with room to put a new motor.... If I can save this one , I'll be way way ahead... I just want it to tow behind the motorhome and have ac.... I also have the YJ ,.. but no AC, and the fiat 500... the fiat is probley the most fun to drive car I've ever owned and gets drove the most...

 

[monkeyswrench]

@2FORCEFULL , instead of water down the intake for carbon on my old junk, I've used Windex. Works pretty good and comes with a spray bottle. Also started doing that with Vortec sbc's before tear down.
With the oil, it wasn't so much for a stuck lifter, as it was for after the lifter "un-stuck". I think, don't know for sure, that the sticky lifter may wear the cam just a hair, and not allow the lifter to fully compensate. That, or carbon crud limiting the plunger in the lifter. So, I use the non-syn to help cushion it. It seems like weight for weight, synthetic is still "thinner".

 

[Outdrive1]

How much for the TJ Steve? I don’t mind lifter noise.

 

[MK1MOD0]

For stuck lifters and general inside oil cleaning here is what I’ve done. Learned this from my dad. Get the engine up to full temp, (water and oil). Add I qt of kerosene and let the engine idle for an hr. Drain oil thoroughly, and change filter. It’s worked very well. Even solved my neighbors stuck lifter on his Suburban.

 

[Good Stuff]

Quart or so of diesel in the oil cleans a lot up too. About the same thing as the BG engine flush kits. Just let it sit and run for 30 minutes or more the engine normally get pretty quiet. Then oil change and drive a bit or let it run again and a final oil change.

Fiat 500 was a ton of fun especially after I put 205 “wide” tires on it.

 

[OCMerrill]

I have owned several 4.0's. My current 200k mile ZJ had lifter tick and Marvel helped. Maybe just here and there noise, no means constant.
I had no lifter noises until I sea-foamed the oil. Never again. Should have left well enough alone.

That is with me running 15w-40 Shell Rotella over the last 8 years I've owned it.

Same - pulling the head to change lifters is a pile of NOPE. I'll build a stroker if were going that far.

 

[2FORCEFULL]

@2FORCEFULL , instead of water down the intake for carbon on my old junk, I've used Windex. Works pretty good and comes with a spray bottle. Also started doing that with Vortec sbc's before tear down.
With the oil, it wasn't so much for a stuck lifter, as it was for after the lifter "un-stuck". I think, don't know for sure, that the sticky lifter may wear the cam just a hair, and not allow the lifter to fully compensate. That, or carbon crud limiting the plunger in the lifter. So, I use the non-syn to help cushion it. It seems like weight for weight, synthetic is still "thinner".

i think the lifter wasn't pumped up, and sat for a long time and froze.... the marvil has it free... little tick now and then....

now for the next thing.... they did a 3'' spring lift... and looks like they lowered the trans mount about 1.5... wouldn't that starve the main shaft being on a constant angle????theres a little bit of a growl that goes away at speed if you go to neutral, that and wouldn't you have to add gear oil at that point???? I have toget a 14mm allen to check it..

 

[Orange Juice]

I use the STP oil change about every 5 years.

I would run it 5-10 miles of easy driving with marvel, and then change oil, and drive it another 50 miles and repeat with the marvel or STP oil treatment.
If it’s not burning oil, I’d run a light weight oil 30 SAE.
After your best attempts to clean a stuck lifter, I’d go back to 10w 40, and call it a day, and pretend your driving a diesel.

Transmission problems are never good. If it goes away in neutral, I’d check the Throw out bearing, if it’s manual.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Neutral foot in the clutch, or neutral shifter? If foot in clutch, I'd lean toward TO bearing. Other than that, they usually growl under load if the bearings are and issue, and pop out of gear if the thrust is eaten or the synchros junk. 1 1/2" drop is pretty common. They at least try to get the pinion angle closer. The rear seal, if good, will hold the added gear lube. Most guys just fill the trans. I think it's less than a 1/2 quart extra. That brings it up to cover the bottom 1/3 of the input shaft main bearing. I know some that run Amsoil or Lucas, but too many of them on the road for it to be a serious issue.

 

[2FORCEFULL]

Neutral foot in the clutch, or neutral shifter? If foot in clutch, I'd lean toward TO bearing. Other than that, they usually growl under load if the bearings are and issue, and pop out of gear if the thrust is eaten or the synchros junk. 1 1/2" drop is pretty common. They at least try to get the pinion angle closer. The rear seal, if good, will hold the added gear lube. Most guys just fill the trans. I think it's less than a 1/2 quart extra. That brings it up to cover the bottom 1/3 of the input shaft main bearing. I know some that run Amsoil or Lucas, but too many of them on the road for it to be a serious issue.

maybe they never filled after they did the lift???? it was only drove 20 miles in 3 years, and they just did the lift.... I went to check it but it needs a 14 mm allen which I don't have... and a 17mm to pull the drain plug...
oh, and the growl goes away shifting to netural at speed and coasting

 

[monkeyswrench]

maybe they never filled after they did the lift???? it was only drove 20 miles in 3 years, and they just did the lift.... I went to check it but it needs a 14 mm allen which I don't have... and a 17mm to pull the drain plug...
oh, and the growl goes away shifting to netural at speed and coasting

Somewhere, I have a 14mm nut welded to a piece of 1" strap...I didn't have a big metric tool selection for a long time

Two other things to check when you're under it. Make sure the T-case is fully disengaged for the front, and check the rear diff. If low on oil, or someone regeared it poorly, that can give you a growl under load. On a Jeep, axle so close it can be hard to tell. I've put them in the air before, idling in gear, and stethoscope the things suspect. Pain in the ass, but really effective.

 

[COCA COLA COWBOY]

when I got it, it was hammering bad.... I put 2 quarts of marvil and just let it sit and run ,. so far it has quieted way down to now the lifter is working again..just a little tic yesterday.... and this morning it pretty much gone... also it had misfire codes and problems with the purge valve..... all common jeep issues... changed the plugs and put a quart of lucas in the tank... I put a new purge valve , but it kept throwing codes.... hit the old one with a power probe and its works fine... might be it was a bad connection or cause it sat too long... only got drove 20 miles in 3 years..... the lady I bought it from lied her ass off about everything.. my son has a car fax app and that told the real story..also it had/ has a throwout bearing noise that seems to be going away.. figure I'll drive it till it breaks and have my shop put a new motor and clutch when it does.. seems like all most all motors now days have their specific issue's, and most all relate to not changing oil... I remember back in the day the old ford "Y" blocks would do this same thing... I'd put about 3 quarts of tranny fluid in the oil and just let it sit and run for hours till they quieted down.... that and run a quart down the carb.. after that smoke cleared and it run for a while I'd start dumping cups of water down the carb..


might need to do that to this motor... might have some carbon on the valves

I love MM, but started using Lucas Oil Stabilizer on advice from my engine builder.

I would pick up another 4.0, they are a dime a dozen and every jeep guy should have one lying around.

 

[Outdrive1]

Hard top too.

 

[2FORCEFULL]

I love MM, but started using Lucas Oil Stabilizer on advice from my engine builder.

I would pick up another 4.0, they are a dime a dozen and every jeep guy should have one lying around.

lucas is good on a clean engine...ford tritons plug up with lucas... and clean out good with MM... this thing sat and bleed the oil out of the lifter... got her pretty quiet now...

got rid of the growl,... went out to the desert and up and down some steep hill trails... each time before going to the bottom i would stop on the hill and let the gear lube go forward... after a couple hills the growl went away...came home drained the trans,.. put new gaer oil with some lucas... quiet as new and shifts easy now.... the jeep climbs like crazy with the 12.50 35's

anyway, the issues are from sitting so long and only going 20 miles in 4 years.. I bought a 70 blazer one time...same deal,... guy told me he only drove it once a year,... but would go out and start it once a month and let it run... passerger window wouldn't roll down and he said he only rolled it down once since he owned it...blazer had 17,000 miles.... so pulled the door panel... looked brand new inside but the white grease on the rollers was hard as rock...

 

[2FORCEFULL]

View attachment 1107485

Hard top too.

sexy bitch huh...

 

[2FORCEFULL]

If it's getting quieter, run it and heat cycle it some more.

What weight and type of oil? I've had good luck running them on 15w40 non-synthetic, seems to quiet them down.

ticking seems to be pretty much gone... I still have the 2 quarts of marvil in, thats on top of the oil that was in there.... gonna do a full oil change today and use the mopar filter... trans noise is gone, door latches are a little stiff, another sign of one that has sat and not used.. need to also spray the ign key switch..it's a little sticky also...

 

[2FORCEFULL]

I have owned several 4.0's. My current 200k mile ZJ had lifter tick and Marvel helped. Maybe just here and there noise, no means constant.
I had no lifter noises until I sea-foamed the oil. Never again. Should have left well enough alone.

That is with me running 15w-40 Shell Rotella over the last 8 years I've owned it.

Same - pulling the head to change lifters is a pile of NOPE. I'll build a stroker if were going that far.

the place I get motors from sells the 4.8 stroker....I was wondering about the tune???? that was the first bulletin on the motor.... customer responsible for the tune..

cool thing is, I own a shop that does motor swaps,... my son says it's a 2 day swap... but his name is dave... I asked , "which 2 days do you count , monday and friday. I can get a deal on the motor and make who ever works on it start and not do nothing else till it's done ... where as taking it to other shops you go there every day to get it and they havn't touched it for weeks


my older son, has done the swaps, says it easy and fast,.. he siad it was like pulling a loaf bread out of a bakery truck....lol

 

[OCMerrill]

the place I get motors from sells the 4.8 stroker....I was wondering about the tune???? that was the first bulletin on the motor.... customer responsible for the tune..

cool thing is, I own a shop that does motor swaps,... my son says it's a 2 day swap... but his name is dave... I asked , "which 2 days do you count , monday and friday. I can get a deal on the motor and make who ever works on it start and not do nothing else till it's done ... where as taking it to other shops you go there every day to get it and they havn't touched it for weeks


my older son, has done the swaps, says it easy and fast,.. he siad it was like pulling a loaf bread out of a bakery truck....lol

The stroker swap is fairly common. You are not gaining all that much HP however TQ will come up. The only swap out is the injectors going from the 19 lb/hr to 24 lb/hr.

As far as tuning your not doing much. These engines will not give you big HP gains without a ton of work. With a small cam, the injector upgrade, and the extra cu in I think about 220 hp is about it however 300 lb/ft tq is obtainable.

As long as the cam is reasonable most just let the computer sort it.

 

[2FORCEFULL]

ticking seems to be pretty much gone... I still have the 2 quarts of marvil in, thats on top of the oil that was in there.... gonna do a full oil change today and use the mopar filter... trans noise is gone, door latches are a little stiff, another sign of one that has sat and not used.. need to also spray the ign key switch..it's a little sticky also...

update..... changed oil today, mopar filter... she's quiet now... but... got a growl in the trans.... also found that when they put the new tires, the balance weights hit the calipers... so I got them re balanced... but still have the noise... must be the input shaft bearing...????

 

[OCMerrill]

The 6 spd NSG-370 MBZ trans makes some noise even when new.

I'd drive it but knowing you its rebuild time. I only put 20k miles on my LJ before I turned it into payroll back in 2011 so I dont have any longevity feedback.

 

[2FORCEFULL]

The 6 spd NSG-370 MBZ trans makes some noise even when new.

I'd drive it but knowing you its rebuild time. I only put 20k miles on my LJ before I turned it into payroll back in 2011 so I dont have any longevity feedback.

I'm now thinking the noise is coming from the front hub assembly , so today I'm gonna replace both sides.... I need to put it on a two post and run it.... but the hubs are cheep and fast to do so I'm doing that any way... the noise seems to be in the front now... the lifer noise seems to come and go..but the clack is gone so the lifter is working.. the killer on this jeep was how long it sat... also gonna do a new fuel pump, it needs to see 58 psi pressure , but it only goes to 48 psi... so it's just waiting to leave me stranded some where.... lol... someone's gonna get a nice jeeep when i'n done...

The 6 spd NSG-370 MBZ trans is only about $2500,... not sure on shop cost..... my whole idea with the jeep thing is for a rv towed (TOAD) rig.. they're short light and easy to tow... for me I'd rather trail ride in the turbo rzr... crawling around destert roads in a jeep lacks alot in suspension,,, but you do get windows heat and ac....

 

[LakeBeard]

Congrats on the new Jeep, TJ is the best J...here's mine:

 

[6 balls]

Steve, If possible source an OEM Bosch fuel pump not aftermarket.

 

[2FORCEFULL]

got the fuel pump and front bearing assemblies done to day... re scaned the jeep... everything good..no check engine lights....

 

[2FORCEFULL]

valve cover seeps a little, so new gasket today,...


so whats it worth???, i'm thiniking about selling it a getting a newer one>>>???? but the mini van motors have a lot of issues... whats the best year to get... everyones says the tj's are the best over all ?????

 

[Canuck 1]

valave cover seeps a little, so new gasket today,...


so whats it worth???, i'm thiniking about selling it a getting a newer one>>>???? but the mini van motors have a lot of issues... whats the best year to get... everyones says the tj's are the best over all ?????

What you have, the 06 was the last of the real jeeps

 

[2FORCEFULL]

2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport TJ - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle...

Very clean 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 6 Cyl. 5 speed transmission. Clean title. Runs great, A/C and heater work great.

lasvegas.craigslist.org

 

[2FORCEFULL]

Beautiful Jeep Wrangler - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle...

Selling my Jeep jk 3.8 liter v6 completely gone through 220k miles all seals just done Exhaust done Fresh tube up All fluids changes Brand new transmission Brand new 4 inch lift kit Brand new...

lasvegas.craigslist.org

 

[2FORCEFULL]

got the valve cover off.... no lifter problem.... no loose rockers.... wrench says it's injector noise??????says he's worked on hundreds.... also says just turn up the radio....lol

 

[2FORCEFULL]

2003 Jeep Wrangler - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle automotive...

2003 Jeep Wrangler 4x4. Excellent condition. New - tires, 4" lift, wench, radiator, heater core, lights, etc...Runs great and very clean. Come with tow bar for 2" ball receiver. Already wired for...

inlandempire.craigslist.org

 

[04-24Stealth]

Have you checked the cam shaft sensor? I had a tick on my 4.0 motor and it turned out to be that sensor. Tried the tricks mentioned above and it ended up being the sensor.

 

[2FORCEFULL]

2004 Jeep Wrangler Sahara - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle...

FOR SALE: Classic 2004 Jeep Wrangler (TJ) Sahara edition for $17,000 or best offer. Jeep has a IL6 4.0 solid engine, no leaks, cold A/C; after market Kenwood Stereo w/bluetooth; 2 1/2 inch Rough...

mohave.craigslist.org

 

[2FORCEFULL]

Have you checked the cam shaft sensor? I had a tick on my 4.0 motor and it turned out to be that sensor. Tried the tricks mentioned above and it ended up being the sensor.

how did you check the sensor?

 

[04-24Stealth]

how did you check the sensor?

It’s on the passenger side of the motor just ahead of the oil filter. When mine went out you could put your hand in the sensor and feel it clicking. Blew me away that I chased a tick for weeks and that was the cause.

 

[2FORCEFULL]

It’s on the passenger side of the motor just ahead of the oil filter. When mine went out you could put your hand in the sensor and feel it clicking. Blew me away that I chased a tick for weeks and that was the cause.

i checked mine...... you can feel it doing something.it's rightwhere the distributor would go....whenthe ticking stops I'll have to check again

 

[2FORCEFULL]

It’s on the passenger side of the motor just ahead of the oil filter. When mine went out you could put your hand in the sensor and feel it clicking. Blew me away that I chased a tick for weeks and that was the cause.

up date,... the noise in the trans turned out to be the rear end carrier bearings, they were shot and the ring and pinion was showing wear, so got the rear end rebuilt... noise gone,, the rear end was resonating up the drive shaft..... the OPDA (oil pump drive assembly) was also so bad... so put a new one..also put new rockers and push rods... motor runs like a mouse in slippers now.. also took the top off and put a new front seal..

 

[havasujeeper]

That is a beautiful jeep!

 

[Gelcoater]

up date,... the noise in the trans turned out to be the rear end carrier bearings, they were shot and the ring and pinion was showing wear, so got the rear end rebuilt... noise gone,, the rear end was resonating up the drive shaft..... the OPDA (oil pump drive assembly) was also so bad... so put a new one..also put new rockers and push rods... motor runs like a mouse in slippers now.. also took the top off and put a new front seal..

So what are you asking for it?

 

[T_Fib]

As long as you have oil pressure run it, The 4.0 is a great motor and will go for ever as long you keep them cool and maintain oil pressure.

 

[2FORCEFULL]

That is a beautiful jeep!

ready for the ranch...