2007 Chrysler 300 no start problem..

[Cray Paper]

My girlfriends son has a 2007 base model Chrysler 300 that I am trying to get back on the road. It had the common shifter linkage breakage problem that he said he repaired but it left him stranded a couple months later with not being able to shift it out of park. When I got involved the shifter was partially disassembled, battery was shot, and the shifter was halfway torn down with the console still in the car. The key was also not able to be removed from the ignition.

I have replaced the shifter with a remanufactured unit, replaced the battery and replaced the cable going from the shifter to the ignition. It's progress but it still will not crank over or start (and leave my driveway) . Anyone have experience with these things or have a recommendation for a site that can fill in the blanks?

 

[Kachina26]

I love me a Cray Paper girlfriend thread.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Check the shift linkage to the transmission itself. The shifter may be out of adjustment, showing it is in park, but may not be fully in park at the tranny end.

 

[Orange Juice]

So starter does not crank. Battery is new.

Has a history of the steering column being reassembled.

I’d get a electrical diagram, and look for the lock out switch. The one that doesn’t let you start the car in drive.

 

[HOOTER SLED-]

I was just gonna say.....girlfriend?

 

[HOOTER SLED-]

Maybe it has a chipped key or something? New one doesn't match the switch or something?

 

[lbhsbz]

Probably a fucked TIPM, like they all have.

 

[Danger Dave]

1-800-Cars For Kids can make that problem go away.

 

[hman442]

Maybe it has a chipped key or something? New one doesn't match the switch or something?

If he "gave you the spare key", that could be an issue. Sometimes car will "read" one key, but not the other. Read up on the anti theft system, how it recognizes the key. It could be an issue with that, and not something physical/mechanical

 

[Cray Paper]

Check the shift linkage to the transmission itself. The shifter may be out of adjustment, showing it is in park, but may not be fully in park at the tranny end.

Is there a way to do this without jacking the car up and visibly confirming it's in park?

 

[Cray Paper]

Is there a way to do this without jacking the car up and visibly confirming it's in park?

My limited understanding of the BTIS is that the communication of the shifter position to the PCM takes place in the shifter, not the transmission?

 

[Racey]

If he "gave you the spare key", that could be an issue. Sometimes car will "read" one key, but not the other. Read up on the anti theft system, how it recognizes the key. It could be an issue with that, and not something physical/mechanical

Wont a vats failure usually allow the car to start and run for like 1 second and then shut off?

 

[monkeyswrench]

My limited understanding of the BTIS is that the communication of the shifter position to the PCM takes place in the shifter, not the transmission?

Usually, they need to "see" each other and agree. Jacking it up would be my go to, or a good scanner that shows both commanded by shifter, and the actual of trans.
As @lbhsbz says though, TIPM modules on that era are problematic...I know for sure with the Rams. They are like an integrated fuse, relay, circuit thing.

You may have luck looking online for a forum dealing with those cars. Even looking up "no start" service bulletins for the model may give you some ideas.

 

[Cray Paper]

When the tow truck dropped it off the shifter was in park and the E brake was set, I assumed the tranny was actually in P. A little later I was looking at it and it rolled backwards slowly. It went about 6" and I put chocks behind the rear tires. Thought that was odd for it to roll that far while in P.

I disconnected the shifter to tranny cable a little while ago and pushed / pulled on it, I could hear it going through the detents in the tranny and it moved freely.

I called the owner and asked again about the specifics of what happened. He went to start it up and it wouldn't start and the tranny wouldn't shift out of P, but he could still remove the ignition key. When I looked at it at his place I pushed and pulled on the ignition interlock cable, got it loose from the shifter and then the ignition key wouldn't come out. This was after he replaced the common problem plastic receiver for the ignition interlock cable. He only has one key and that's the one I have.

Another thing to not is that since the shifter, battery and ignition interlock cable have been replaced ( key removed from ignition) I can hear a light hum from the dash area and when the door is opened their is a fast paced alarm chime like something is on, like the headlights, but nothing is.

 

[oldboatsrule]

The key not coming out is your sign.... it's not in park.
1. Remove cable from transmission.
2. Manually ensure transmission fully engaged in park.
3. Adjust/reconnect cable.
4. Drink celebratory beer or twelve

 

[hman442]

Wont a vats failure usually allow the car to start and run for like 1 second and then shut off?

Sorry, I don't remember. Some of them do, but I don't recall if that's GM, or Chrysler

 

[Cray Paper]

The key not coming out is your sign.... it's not in park.
1. Remove cable from transmission.
2. Manually ensure transmission fully engaged in park.
3. Adjust/reconnect cable.
4. Drink celebratory beer or twelve

I noticed after replacing the shifter, battery and cable going from the shifter to the ignition that when the key was removed there was something deep in the dash still humming, like the ignition didn't shut off. When the key is removed from the the ignition, and the drivers door ( only the DD) is opened, the chime is fast like the headlights are switched on. I turned everything off but it seems like something with a cable or switch is out of adjustment and telling the PCM it's still on.

I left the battery connected last night and it was down to 6V this afternoon. I also pulled the fuses last night and the one that is the handling the shutdown procedures kept clicking and some of the relays in the engine compartment were doing the same.

I might have made things worse, found a video on YT and jumper wired the engine compartment fuse / relay panel and the car started and ran, albeit at 2500 RPM...after doing so I realized how dumb this was... Wasn't 100% positive it was in neutral and was standing in front of it and it was pointed right at my house. That was before replacing parts. I do know the starter, PCM, coils etc work, or did.

How do you adjust the tranny / ignition cable so they are in alignment?

 

[Cray Paper]

I love me a Cray Paper girlfriend thread.

Life has a of way of leveling shit out, and we learn what matters most for each of us going through the dregs of bad relationships. I know the woman I'm with is very intelligent, understands her self emotionally, has a solid grasp of how men think and has has her shit together and has for a long time. She knows what I am thinking about the same time I am. Will this work long term, we will find out. She is not Bi Polar nor does she have a victim mentality from youth like my first ex.

I posted my experiences to help people going through the same dregs of life, seems odd you are looking forward to a train wreck again.

 

[timstoy]

Have you turned the ignition on and shift into neutral and see if it starts?

 

[Kachina26]

Life has a of way of leveling shit out, and we learn what matters most for each of us going through the dregs of bad relationships. I know the woman I'm with is very intelligent, understands her self emotionally, has a solid grasp of how men think and has has her shit together and has for a long time. She knows what I am thinking about the same time I am. Will this work long term, we will find out. She is not Bi Polar nor does she have a victim mentality from youth like my first ex.

I posted my experiences to help people going through the same dregs of life, seems odd you are looking forward to a train wreck again.

No offense intended, but you fall too hard too fast. I wish you the best.

 

[Cray Paper]

Have you turned the ignition on and shift into neutral and see if it starts?

Yes

 

[4Waters]

Take the cable loose on the transmission and physically/manually make sure its in park and see if it starts

 

[Ultra...Good]

Sounds like you have a bunch of things going on there, good luck. I am no help with which forum is a good one to go to for help. There are a few out there if you google it, chryslerforum.com is one of them.

If it were me though, I would be thinking now is a good time to get another car. I don't see too many older Chrslers on the road and I think I know why.

 

[Orange Juice]

I noticed after replacing the shifter, battery and cable going from the shifter to the ignition that when the key was removed there was something deep in the dash still humming, like the ignition didn't shut off. When the key is removed from the the ignition, and the drivers door ( only the DD) is opened, the chime is fast like the headlights are switched on. I turned everything off but it seems like something with a cable or switch is out of adjustment and telling the PCM it's still on.

I left the battery connected last night and it was down to 6V this afternoon. I also pulled the fuses last night and the one that is the handling the shutdown procedures kept clicking and some of the relays in the engine compartment were doing the same.

I might have made things worse, found a video on YT and jumper wired the engine compartment fuse / relay panel and the car started and ran, albeit at 2500 RPM...after doing so I realized how dumb this was... Wasn't 100% positive it was in neutral and was standing in front of it and it was pointed right at my house. That was before replacing parts. I do know the starter, PCM, coils etc work, or did.

How do you adjust the tranny / ignition cable so they are in alignment?

Still thinks the key is in the ignition, and the transmission is in something other than park or neutral.

You a close.

 

[Orange Juice]

Here we go. The battery feed from the switch goes through the cigar lighter? There is a fuse.

 

[Cray Paper]

Take the cable loose on the transmission and physically/manually make sure its in park and see if it starts

View attachment 1146217
Here we go. The battery feed from the switch goes through the cigar lighter? There is a fuse.

I'm working on a 2007, that looks like it's for a 1967!

 

[Cray Paper]

Take the cable loose on the transmission and physically/manually make sure its in park and see if it starts

I have manipulated the shifter through all the gears while trying to crank it over as well as done the same manually pushing / pulling the transmission cable. I can hear the detents in the tranny clicking and the door locks lock once it's out of park.

 

[Cray Paper]

Went through the fuses and relays with a multi meter, all checked out but did find that the BCM wasn't receiving the 5v signal from the ignition switch when attempting to crank. I pulled the ignition assembly apart and found the nose of the ignition switch actuator assembly was broken off in the switch. I had noticed that when turning the key to the crank position and letting go, it didn't snap back to run. I asked the owner last weekend if that was normal and he said it was.

Dodge doesn't sell that part anymore so I got one coming from the local parts store. I feel like this is the last issue to address to get this thing running, fingers crossed.

 

[Cray Paper]

Got it running! In retrospect it had a couple of issues, the shifter and or cable going to the the ignition were F'd up. The key not snapping back to the run position after hitting the start position was an indicator that the ignition actuator was tits up, and it was. Dodge doesn't assembly any longer, but the local parts store did.

 

[Cray Paper]

No offense intended, but you fall too hard too fast. I wish you the best.

I understand how it appears , I believe in love and am more than willing to go all in. but it dont do this lightly.

 

[HNL2LHC]

Good to hear that you got it all figured out…..the car that is. J/K.



Best to you and the girlfriend. It can be tough out there looking for a partner these days.

 

[50onRED]

My girlfriends son has a 2007 base model Chrysler 300 that I am trying to get back on the road. It had the common shifter linkage breakage problem that he said he repaired but it left him stranded a couple months later with not being able to shift it out of park. When I got involved the shifter was partially disassembled, battery was shot, and the shifter was halfway torn down with the console still in the car. The key was also not able to be removed from the ignition.

I have replaced the shifter with a remanufactured unit, replaced the battery and replaced the cable going from the shifter to the ignition. It's progress but it still will not crank over or start (and leave my driveway) . Anyone have experience with these things or have a recommendation for a site that can fill in the blanks?

Those cars require a couple things to start. One of them is your foot on the brake. This also clicks a relay in the shifter that allows it to be removed from park. If the shifter is in anything other than park or neutral it will not start.
When you put the key in and turn it to accessory does the dash light up, radio come on etc?
Also check all of the fuses. Should be a box near the battery and another on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Those cars are electrical nightmares And one wire being unplugged or shorted can stop it dead in its tracks.
Also, there could be an aftermarket theft deterrent that is usually under the driver side dash.
Take the key and close all of the doors, put the key in the driver door (only) and lock the car then unlock it again (not with the buttons, only by turning the actual key) this will shut down the factory theft deterrent but if there’s an aftermarket one it will need to be shut off manually. 99% of the time I found an aftermarket alarm to be the problem and most people thought theirs was factory because it came in the car from the dealership. When in reality the dealership installed it and added it to the cost of the car. They are always junk and when the battery is dead or switched it often times kills those alarms. Check under the driver dash for any little black box (like 1”x1.5” with a wire coming out of one end and an LED on the other.
Report back… good luck

 

[Cray Paper]

Those cars require a couple things to start. One of them is your foot on the brake. This also clicks a relay in the shifter that allows it to be removed from park. If the shifter is in anything other than park or neutral it will not start.
When you put the key in and turn it to accessory does the dash light up, radio come on etc?
Also check all of the fuses. Should be a box near the battery and another on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Those cars are electrical nightmares And one wire being unplugged or shorted can stop it dead in its tracks.
Also, there could be an aftermarket theft deterrent that is usually under the driver side dash.
Take the key and close all of the doors, put the key in the driver door (only) and lock the car then unlock it again (not with the buttons, only by turning the actual key) this will shut down the factory theft deterrent but if there’s an aftermarket one it will need to be shut off manually. 99% of the time I found an aftermarket alarm to be the problem and most people thought theirs was factory because it came in the car from the dealership. When in reality the dealership installed it and added it to the cost of the car. They are always junk and when the battery is dead or switched it often times kills those alarms. Check under the driver dash for any little black box (like 1”x1.5” with a wire coming out of one end and an LED on the other.
Report back… good luck

Thank you for taking the time to give me tips, hopefully I wont need to dig this thread back up! I got it running last night.