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2016 creekside 22RB

BHC Vic

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It depends on your rear end ratio. A 3.42 rear end has a 8-8,300lb rating (4 or 2 wheel drive) where as a 3.08 has a 6-6,300lb rating. You will also need a trailer brake controller as well.

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Came with trailer brake control
 

boatdoc55

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Puts weight on front tires the end...


lol

in all seriousness shit is simple as fuck.
My buddy spent all weekend setting up his hitch and 2 trips to the scales.

I put hooked up my trailer and measured how much it sagged with no bars.
Adjusted hitch until I cut that sag in half.

towed perfect lol.

you can do the same take it for a spin if it sways not enough if it don’t your fine.

don’t put much weight behind rear axles of the trailer.

I’m sure someone will be along shortly to tell me I’m wrong and you have to measure front fender height and scale this and scale that and 10% this and 15% blah motha fucking blah.

meanwhile my shit tows straight as fuck and I didn’t spend all the time dicking around.
I don't tow any longer and like to have people know the reasoning behind what they're doing and understand it. Kind of makes a safer world for everybody, :D BTW, I was using weight transfer hitches before you were born!!;)
 

BHC Vic

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A factory one? If so you likely have the 3.42's.

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That guy right?

image.jpg
 

CLdrinker

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I don't tow any longer and like to have people know the reasoning behind what they're doing and understand it. Kind of makes a safer world for everybody, :D BTW, I was using weight transfer hitches before you were born!!;)
Was I wrong? How old am I? I have been backing up trailers for almost 30yrs
 

boatdoc55

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Was I wrong? How old am I? I have been backing up trailers for almost 30yrs
Well, not wrong but very vague!! :D You're dealing with a brand NEW person that has ZERO experience towing with a WD hitch. My post mentioned safety for him and others. We all can't be experts like you. Which front tires are YOU talking about. I know which ones but does Victor. If your going to give advise you might want to slow down a little think about whom your giving advise too. Victor is a brand new newbi to travel trailers!!!
I'm just watching out for him and his family like always.
 

CLdrinker

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Well, not wrong but very vague!! :D You're dealing with a brand NEW person that has ZERO experience towing with a WD hitch. My post mentioned safety for him and others. We all can't be experts like you. Which front tires are YOU talking about. I know which ones but does Victor. If your going to give advise you might want to slow down a little think about whom your giving advise too. Victor is a brand new newbi to travel trailers!!!
I'm just watching out for him and his family like always.
Settle down Francis. It’s not like he is replacing a ball joint. He is just towing a trailer.
 

BUDMAN

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Congrats. Nice looking trailer. You guys will enjoy it and have a great time making memories.
 

Waffles

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get a new Predator 3500
You cant go wrong with this or the Wen 56380i.....

Put it on a mount on the front and call it a day

 

BHC Vic

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Ok so I need some help from you guys that do this a lot. @bldrinker you can probably help me a lot. For at home I could get away with 30amp power but I’m thinking just go 50amp for future and use an adapter for this trailer.
Do I need multiple surge pigtails for different campgrounds?
do I need leveling blocks? The lego kind I’m thinking?
Do you guys travel with your tanks filled? Empty somewhere by the house if campsite doesn’t have dumps? I’ve never owned a trailer and never camped in one. So I really need everything from the beginning. Any good kits I can buy? Any good YouTube videos I can watch? I think I got the leveling part down. Hooking up and unhooking. I’m learning about the propane and bleeding the air with the stove before trying the fridge. I just watched a video on how to make the couch and dinette beds. Help me out if you guys have some extra time and advice please. My brother wants to use it next weekend and I want to make sure there’s no issues. I won’t be using it till sometime in June when I get a weekend off
 

fmo24

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Walmart normally has a great selection of things for the camper. Get a clear elbow for your sewer hose so you can see when tank is actually done draining. Always dump the black tank first then the grey after will help rinse out the hose. Those stackable blocks are great in your case for under tires as well as under stabilizer jacks. Some guys make their own out of 2x8 sandwiched with plywood but as lite as your camper is the plastic blocks will work fine.
 

CLdrinker

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I have never used a surge protector.

if you are having a service installed gets 50amp.
30-50 and 50-30adapters are available.
When going to a RV park tanks are empty. Just enough water for potty breaks.
dry camping water is full when I leave the house.

I have full hook ups at my house so the Cosby’s get dumped at home.

Amazon has a metric Shit ton of RV goodies.

these leveling blocks are the best I have found.
Flush the blank tanks well after each use I clean mine until the water coming out looks clean enough to drink lol. You don’t want turd cement in your tank lol.

water pressure regulator for your fresh water while hooked up.
 

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fmo24

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Your trailer is probably only 30 amp service so no need for 50 now. If you do run a 50 amp plug it needs to be wired for an rv plug which is 2 120 lines with a neutral and a ground. Then you can pig tail down to 30 or even 120 while at home. I can run fridge and one ac unit on 120 in my motorhom. When we had a house I would plug into normal outlet in garage while loading up for a trip.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Bring your cordless impact for setting the jacks.

If you get the generator, bring a sheet of plywood to set it on or a crate something to elevate it off the ground. Also get a cable and lock to secure it.
 

DLC

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get some 2x6’s and a torpedo level side to side is more important than Frt to rear the jacks can get frt to rear close

as for house power outlet you only need to charge batteries and get /or keep fridge cool Or possible run AC while loading up, I would do at least a 30 amp plug and get a generator with a 30 amp plug.

always keep your holding tanks wet so rubber gasket doesn’t dry out, they have a ton of blue holding tank Black /gray solution, a few drops of bleach in fresh water tank will keep any fungus away while in in storage Google helps with the amount of bleach

if you don’t plan on using it during summer, get a cover it keeps the sun from beating the graphics and exterior

2 - 6 volt batteries work better than 1 -12 volt for dry camping so in the desert

get a bike rack for your kids and some comfy chairs and hit the beach or the mountains
 

BHC Vic

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get some 2x6’s and a torpedo level side to side is more important than Frt to rear the jacks can get frt to rear close

as for house power outlet you only need to charge batteries and get /or keep fridge cool Or possible run AC while loading up, I would do at least a 30 amp plug and get a generator with a 30 amp plug.

always keep your holding tanks wet so rubber gasket doesn’t dry out, they have a ton of blue holding tank Black /gray solution, a few drops of bleach in fresh water tank will keep any fungus away while in in storage Google helps with the amount of bleach

if you don’t plan on using it during summer, get a cover it keeps the sun from beating the graphics and exterior

2 - 6 volt batteries work better than 1 -12 volt for dry camping so in the desert

get a bike rack for your kids and some comfy chairs and hit the beach or the mountains
Good read. I’m going to read it again because I’m getting ready to setup the trailer for the suburban. For the Silverado everything worked well the way it came. The receiver on the suburban is much higher than the Silverado so I bought a different drop. Would it be safe to measure the height of the ball on the truck and then basically use the extension on the suburban to get the same height?

I’m going to buy a replacement head that way I have 1 setup for the Silverado and 1 for the suburban

image.jpg
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Good read. I’m going to read it again because I’m getting ready to setup the trailer for the suburban. For the Silverado everything worked well the way it came. The receiver on the suburban is much higher than the Silverado so I bought a different drop. Would it be safe to measure the height of the ball on the truck and then basically use the extension on the suburban to get the same height?

I’m going to buy a replacement head that way I have 1 setup for the Silverado and 1 for the suburban

View attachment 1016159

The suburban is going to drop a different amount than the truck from the tongue weight. I’d just hook it up first and see what the suburban does before you buy anything.

I forgot, does the suburban have the load leveling rear suspension?
 

BHC Vic

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The suburban is going to drop a different about than the truck from the tongue weight. I’d just hook it up first and see what the truck does before you buy anything.

I forgot, does the suburban have the load leveling rear suspension?
It does not. With the boat on the Silverado I use a 2” drop with the suburban I use a 7 1/2” drop
 

rmarion

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Vic

Just for some reassurance..... stop by a Mike Thompson RV dealer.
Buy some product.... anything...
Then tell them you just purchased a used T.T. and asked them how you should set up for towing..... IMO they will help you out...
any information from the PRO'S is worth the weight in GOLD...
even if you know everything they tell you... its peace of mind, when traveling with YOUR precious cargo in the seats behind you...

Enjoy
 

BHC Vic

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Vic

Just for some reassurance..... stop by a Mike Thompson RV dealer.
Buy some product.... anything...
Then tell them you just purchased a used T.T. and asked them how you should set up for towing..... IMO they will help you out...
any information from the PRO'S is worth the weight in GOLD...
even if you know everything they tell you... its peace of mind, when traveling with YOUR precious cargo in the seats behind you...

Enjoy
I’m going to swing by norco camper tomorrow and hopefully I can buy whatever I need and they can help me out. It’s our first time and I want good memories. Dad fucking something up and us sitting on the side of the road isn’t what im going for. My brother has taken it out a few times with my dads truck with no problems. I’m hoping for the same but the suburban receiver just sits a whole lot higher.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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It does not. With the boat on the Silverado I use a 2” drop with the suburban I use a 7 1/2” drop

Depending on what it does, you may want to get a set of Air Lift bags in the rear springs to stabilize the suburban. They are about $100 and you can just manually fill them with air when towing, and empty them when you are not. I put some in my 4Runner for towing my race car. They worked awesome and stabilized the vehicle, and I was able to level it back out with the additional tongue weight.

These “helper bags” slip into the rear spring.
F55151F3-2109-4EB0-8608-3BBA2CDA5C56.jpeg
 
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rmarion

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Vic..
Most people will help someone out if asked...
IMO... let them know you are a Newbie... and would appreciate any knowledge they can give you...

in other words... DONT BE A MISTER KNOW IT ALL "ASS"... which sometimes comes from us Males.... LOL

Enjoy!!!! Its all about making Memories...
You are on the RIGHT TRACK!!!

Good job DAD!!
 

BHC Vic

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Depending on what it does, you may want to get a set of Air Lift bags in the rear springs to stabilize the suburban. They are about $100 and you can just manually fill them with air when towing, and empty them when you are not. I put some in my 4Runner for towing my race car. They worked awesome and stabilized the vehicle, and I was able to level it back out with the additional tongue weight.

These “helper bags” slip into the rear spring.
View attachment 1016167
Ok opinion please. My bubble level on the trailer is dead nuts. My eyes tell me I can drop the ball down one more hole on the drop extension. The standard one was still too high so glad I ordered the drop. But honest opinion. Run it or drop it a hole?
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
 

BHC Vic

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Now that I’m thinking about it. Nothing is loaded in the suburban yet. Generator kids etc. maybe it’s good? Maybe I’m over thinking this
 

JayBreww

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How low is that hitch? Looks like a nice speed hump and it’ll hit.
Looks great now, gas, kids and gear and it’ll level out.


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BHC Vic

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How low is that hitch? Looks like a nice speed hump and it’ll hit.
Looks great now, gas, kids and gear and it’ll level out.


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I think the clearance is ok. I could always cut it
 

BHC Vic

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If I was smart I would have measured the trailer front and back while it was hooked up... it’s ok players fuck up too
 
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JDub24

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I would load it and then go from there. It’s hard to tell but it looks like you could shorten the chain on the load leveling bars one more link. The goal is to have the bars parallel with the frame of the trailer once under full load.
Hard to see but like this. My trailer was waaayy heavy but it pulled nicely.


QUOTE]
6C3D57E1-AC32-4C74-9479-D1EBBC4FA059.jpeg


Ok opinion please. My bubble level on the trailer is dead nuts. My eyes tell me I can drop the ball down one more hole on the drop extension. The standard one was still too high so glad I ordered the drop. But honest opinion. Run it or drop it a hole?
View attachment 1016416 View attachment 1016417 View attachment 1016420
[/QUOTE
 

DLC

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Hey Cool Beans!

Happy Fathers Day Dads!

That is really cool! So you want the trailer level and the burb to be slightly sagged.

You might need a cargo basket off the rear if the trailer to carry the genset and any gas cans fire wood bike rack etc…. The genset can vapor slightly …
 

BHC Vic

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I would load it and then go from there. It’s hard to tell but it looks like you could shorten the chain on the load leveling bars one more link. The goal is to have the bars parallel with the frame of the trailer once under full load.
Hard to see but like this. My trailer was waaayy heavy but it pulled nicely.


QUOTE] View attachment 1016490
I’ll give it a shot. I think I can do it with a little muscle
 

CLdrinker

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Hey Cool Beans!

Happy Fathers Day Dads!

That is really cool! So you want the trailer level and the burb to be slightly sagged.

You might need a cargo basket off the rear if the trailer to carry the genset and any gas cans fire wood bike rack etc…. The genset can vapor slightly …
Don’t put any significant weight back there. This trailer is short and dont weigh shit. A couple hundred pounds back there can really fuck things up.
 

yz450mm

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I’ll give it a shot. I think I can do it with a little muscle
Don't crank on those weight distribution bars too much, it puts a lot of stress on the trailer "A" frame. If the sag in the rear end of the tow vehicle is too much when you are loaded down and ready to go, you need to address it with airbags or helper springs.

My buddy towed a toy hauler with his Tundra for a couple of years and was always having to crank the s*** out of the torsion bars, which barely kept it off the bump stops. Recently he got airbags and said it's a million times better when towing, and actually wants to go camping again.

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JayBreww

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Maybe I missed it but what are your hitching procedures? Maybe I’ve been doing it wrong all these years but I jack my trailer up attached to my truck about 4 inches past level, hook up my chains to the trailer, usually 3rd or 4th chain, and then lower jack. I think I have 800 pound bars.
 

BHC Vic

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Maybe I missed it but what are your hitching procedures? Maybe I’ve been doing it wrong all these years but I jack my trailer up attached to my truck about 4 inches past level, hook up my chains to the trailer, usually 3rd or 4th chain, and then lower jack. I think I have 800 pound bars.
Same
 

Flying_Lavey

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Ok opinion please. My bubble level on the trailer is dead nuts. My eyes tell me I can drop the ball down one more hole on the drop extension. The standard one was still too high so glad I ordered the drop. But honest opinion. Run it or drop it a hole?
View attachment 1016416 View attachment 1016417 View attachment 1016420
DONT USE A LEVEL!! That is assuming the ground is totally level which it is typically not. you want the trailer PARRALEL to the ground (the terms are often interchanged all too frequently in this regard). Measure the trailer frame to the ground in the rear and the same in the front. You want those measurements to be as close to the same as possible.
I would load it and then go from there. It’s hard to tell but it looks like you could shorten the chain on the load leveling bars one more link. The goal is to have the bars parallel with the frame of the trailer once under full load.
Hard to see but like this. My trailer was waaayy heavy but it pulled nicely.


QUOTE] View attachment 1016490
The bar position isn't important. The load for the particular trailer application is what is the driving factor for the bar positions. If you have a trailer that only has a 700lb tongue weight, usually very little torsion is required compared to a trailer with a 1k+ pound tongue weight.
 

rmarion

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Was Norco Camper any help?

Ps, its been 25 years since I've owned our last TT....
Here's what I remember them telling me;
A. Trailer must be level for towing.
B. Place weight forward in Trailer.
C. Tap Trailer brakes if swaying occurs.
D. Info From Truckers, use same gear on downhill as used while climbing same hill. These words you must live by.... in other words, you are using engine torque for braking...

IMO I would talk with the pros for reassurance.

Enjoy
 
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