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23 Daytona Renovation.

MK1MOD0

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Well Gents. as some of you know, I picked up a 1988 23 Daytona in Florida last week. Today’s the day I started to do the renovations she needs for the summer. I’m not looking to do a complete restoration. This will be a lot simpler, and a much smaller scale than the Stress Eliminator. This will be all about getting the boat water ready, reliable and looking good. The boat came with twin Johnson 225 HO motors which actually make about 250hp. It has nose cones installed and the drives are even with the bottom at this point. here are my plans
1) replace some soft wood on the floor. The areas are mostly where the seats had been bolted in.
2) build a new rear storage area and detail the bilge ect. ( to include cleaning up the wiring.).
3) install new seats. I’m going for a pure-hot rod. 4 race seats and not much else. No vinyl or other upholstery. I’ll be adding sea deck instead of carpeting. As for music, I’ll be adding a sound bar for tunes. Lite weight and simple. ( I love music, so tunes are essential when floating )
4) repaint the motors and brackets.
5) paint restoration. There are a number of spots that need attention. Then after I repair those areas, I will wet sand and clear coat the boat
6) I’ll also need to do a full tune up. Impellar, plugs, drive oil ect.
 

MK1MOD0

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Here are a few pics. I got started today on the floor.
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MK1MOD0

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Oh hell yes ! I’m hoping to make it to the Lower river run mid June. So I’m going to be a busy boy ! Damn fine looking transom She’s sportin .
 

Headless hula

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Oh hell yes ! I’m hoping to make it to the Lower river run mid June. So I’m going to be a busy boy ! Damn fine looking transom She’s sportin .
Get to work. I’ll be reading your updates. Probably won’t be posting for a while. 😬
 

coolchange

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Be interesting to see how you pull off number three.
 

stingray11

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Lose the vro systems, Run the water separating fuel filters that are in there, And a electric fuel pumpFor each motor at 5-6 psi max for those carbs. Also check the Water separating fuel filter housing where the rubber gasket sits for Corrosion. I can almost guarantee it will have corrosion on it.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
 

MK1MOD0

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Lose the vro systems, Run the water separating fuel filters that are in there, And a electric fuel pumpFor each motor at 5-6 psi max for those carbs. Also check the Water separating fuel filter housing where the rubber gasket sits for Corrosion. I can almost guarantee it will have corrosion on it.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

Im totally divided on this. It’s a 50/50 debates as far as I can tell. The previous owner had new VRO pumps installed after he purchased the boat. it was premix when he got it.
 

MK1MOD0

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For the rear storage / hatch, I’ll be using EXTREN. It’s a high strength fiberglass panel, that’s liter than plywood and stronger. Only problem..... it’s expensive. It will have to support weight to wal across, so going to use 1/2 inch. Will see if 1/4 inch will work with underbracing
 

HydroSkreamin

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For the rear storage / hatch, I’ll be using EXTREN. It’s a high strength fiberglass panel, that’s liter than plywood and stronger. Only problem..... it’s expensive. It will have to support weight to wal across, so going to use 1/2 inch. Will see if 1/4 inch will work with underbracing

Do you have any fiberglass experience? That could be way lighter and cheaper if you used 1” core foam and 2-3 layers of 1808.

Three layers of 1808 is about 1/8” thick and super strong due to having the layers 1” apart. You’ll be defeating your purpose if you do 1/2 EXTREN. It’ll be strong, but the thickness will defeat your intention of light weight. Also, how do you plan on doing the joint for strength? Just trying to see your design.

For reference, 5# core foam is 5#/cubic foot. So potentially, your entire hatch could be less than 10 lbs of foam, and about 30 lbs of fiberglass. Obviously foam and vinyl would add extra weight as well, but you could finish off the fiberglass and gel or paint it to save weight.

I’m looking forward to seeing your progress!
 

MK1MOD0

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Do you have any fiberglass experience? That could be way lighter and cheaper if you used 1” core foam and 2-3 layers of 1808.

Three layers of 1808 is about 1/8” thick and super strong due to having the layers 1” apart. You’ll be defeating your purpose if you do 1/2 EXTREN. It’ll be strong, but the thickness will defeat your intention of light weight. Also, how do you plan on doing the joint for strength? Just trying to see your design.

For reference, 5# core foam is 5#/cubic foot. So potentially, your entire hatch could be less than 10 lbs of foam, and about 30 lbs of fiberglass. Obviously foam and vinyl would add extra weight as well, but you could finish off the fiberglass and gel or paint it to save weight.

I’m looking forward to seeing your progress!



Not a ton of experience for sure. And open to recommendations. The hatch will be painted. No vinyl in the boat at all. So I’m trying to keep a good surface to paint. The hatch will simply be a flat piece, so was trying to keep it simple. Hell. Even a finished wood piece could work. I’m not familiar with 1808. Is it solid fiberglass sheet?

The other simple way could be a finished sheet of Birch. 5/8”. Then just a few under supports to add rigidity for walking. Then prime and paint. ????? I’m certainly no carpenter. Lol.
 

Shlbyntro

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It makes me happy that you're keeping the Johnsons. Im A suckered for nostalgia. One of these days I'll find my johnson V8 project.... id love to go for a ride in this thing when its done

Im totally divided on this. It’s a 50/50 debates as far as I can tell. The previous owner had new VRO pumps installed after he purchased the boat. it was premix when he got it.
When were the "new" VROs installed they switched them to a fixed ratio pump about 15ish years ago and are far more dependable than the oroginals ever were.

That being said I still believe in premixing and im not a fan of puting an electric pump on these engines, I'd keep the vros plumbed and running as normal and also mix your fuel tank at 100:1.

I might be a little bit of an OMC nut. To my knowledge, there isn't a cure for my disease yet
 
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MK1MOD0

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It makes me happy that you're keeping the Johnsons. Im A suckered for nostalgia. One of these days I'll find my johnson V8 project.... id love to go for a ride in this thing when its done


When were the "new" VROs installed they switched them to a fixed ratio pump about 15ish years ago and are far more dependable than the oroginals ever were.

That being said I still believe in premixing and im not a fan of puting an electric pump on these engines, I'd keep the vros plumbed and running as normal and also mix your fuel tank at 100:1.

I might be a little bit of an OMC nut. To my knowledge, there isn't a cure for my disease yet


I Believe the previous owner purchased the boat around 2016-2017. So the pumps were installed after that. I probably need to do some investigation on the pump model numbers just to be sure. The 100:1 idea is pretty good. May give an added level of safety.
 

MK1MOD0

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I finished up the floor today. It actually came out looking pretty damn good I must say. There are a couple bubbles, but nothing I can’t take care of in a short time. Next on the list will be to start to clean and detail the rest of the cockpit and bilge area, includi all the spaghetti wiring. After the seats arrive, ill be able do some measurements, and begin to build a new center console.


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MK1MOD0

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Finally got to work on the boat again yesterday. Started to straighten rats Nest of wiring, and some minor fiberglass work inside the cockpit area. Also started to clean up the fuel tanks , because they will be exposed and were pretty dull and scuffed on the outside. Today I want to fiberglass the holes in the cockpit area that were part of the mounting of the interior and get it primed. Lots of small stuff right now, but it needs to be done , in order to look good. Time consuming but worth it.
I was able to get most of all the parts I needed. Got the impeller kits, new fuel filters, and gear lube. 3 new auto bilge pumps and thru hull fittings. I also ordered a swim step from Eddie Marine.

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MK1MOD0

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I was able to get a lot accomplished this week. Most all of the fiberglass work is completed. Including the holes in the cockpit gunwale where all the interior was mounted. I also was able to clean up the wiring mess. It’s not perfect under the dash. But I can work on that later. I re-routed the steering hoses and cleaned all the bilge wiring up. It’s amazing what some zip ties and patience will do. Next week I’ll start to work on the paint. Basically, I’ll work on the major blemishes, then wet sand the entire boat and clear coat it. It will be more durable and add some extra shine ! Here is a before and after of the bilge. And that’s a wrap for this week. Going to take the weekend off and just enjoy this holiday.

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MK1MOD0

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I’ve spent a few hrs wet sanding the hull with 400 on a block. My plan it to get all the wet sanding finished by Monday. Then do any touch up with an air brush that’s needed. After that, I’m going to spray a black stinger down the bow, paint the transom black and clear coat the entire boat. Hope to have paint finished by next weekend.
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Gelcoater

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WHAt a cool project 👍
Keep us informed in progress!
 

MK1MOD0

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I definitely will. I’m certainly no professional, but I’ll give it my best !! Really working on the paint this week. I’m goin to order up some starboard this week. I’ll use it as the base for my center console, that holds the shifters and throttle set up.
 

MK1MOD0

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I was able to get the hullsides and cockpit rails painted. I’m pretty stoked on how it turned out. Most all of the blemishes are completely gone ! Tomorrow, I’ll start on the upper deck area and black stinger. Once I get the stinger painted , I’ll then clear coat the entire boat.
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MK1MOD0

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Thanks ! I got the hull sides all painted and clear coated yesterday. The clear didn’t lay down as smooth as I wanted. In fact. I had a couple runs and had to wet sand them out. Then re shot it and got a couple more !!!! Aghhhhhh 😂. So wet sanded them out again. Since it didn’t lay down super flat, I shot a total of 8 coats. Given me plenty of depth to work with, to wet sand and polish.
 
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stingray11

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You may want to think about adding another line to each lower unit, single lines or barely enough on a looper. I would run dual lines from the nose cone to the water pump cavity.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
 

MK1MOD0

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You may want to think about adding another line to each lower unit, single lines or barely enough on a looper. I would run dual lines from the nose cone to the water pump cavity.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk


I was actually going to ask about that. The starboard motor has dual lines and the port has a single. Didnt know if I needed to add another. So I’ll add that to my ToDo list !!
 
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MK1MOD0

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I finished up the black stinger. It came out real nice. Flat and glossy. I pulled the tape so it doesn’t chip the paint and will leave it with the rest of the plastic on over night. That was a big hurdle. Pretty much the last of the paint work. There will be some polishing later, but done with the spraying for now.



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King295

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Looks good, the black definitely breaks up the blue. You are making quick work of this.
 

sonicss31

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Everything looks great. Kinda wish you didn’t take so long. 😂
 

AJ Hoffman

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Digging the DIY Brotha, coming along nicely! Before an after shots nite/day look forward seeing her ripping up an down lower river 🤙🏻. Stoked for ya too!
 

MK1MOD0

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Thanks AJ. It’s been a fun project so far. I was having some shots with your Dad Saturday night. I promised him he could drive it when I get it to the river ! Should be on the water soon.
 

AJ Hoffman

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Lol well good thing for you is I’m sure he don’t remember a thing 😂
 

MK1MOD0

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Had it out on Elsinore last week. Still ironing out some things. Only have a couple pics.
 

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